Telogen Stage

Fundamentals

The Telogen Stage, in its simplest interpretation, represents a period of quiet repose within the dynamic, cyclical journey of a hair strand. Imagine a seasoned storyteller pausing for breath before recounting another epic tale; this is the essence of this phase. It is not an end, but a vital intermission, a moment of stillness before the resurgence of growth. For those new to the intricate world of hair science, particularly as it pertains to textured hair, understanding this stage is a foundational step in appreciating the inherent wisdom of our strands.

Each individual hair follicle on our scalp, a tiny cradle of life, operates on its own unique timetable, moving through distinct phases. The Telogen Stage is the third of these, following the active growth phase, known as Anagen, and a brief transitional period, the Catagen Stage. During the anagen phase, hair actively grows, with cells in the follicle rapidly dividing to form new hair.

This period can span years, determining the potential length a strand can achieve. The catagen phase, a swift, ephemeral bridge lasting only a few weeks, signals the cessation of active growth, as the hair follicle begins to shrink and detach from its blood supply.

The Telogen Stage is a crucial resting period for hair follicles, a quiet pause before the natural shedding of old hair makes way for new growth.

The Telogen Stage then arrives, typically extending for about two to four months. During this time, the hair strand, often referred to as a “club hair” due to the hardened, club-shaped structure at its base, rests within the follicle. There is no active growth occurring; the follicle, in essence, conserves its energy, preparing for the next cycle of life. It is a period of dormancy, a necessary recalibration before the cycle renews itself.

This resting phase is a natural and healthy component of the hair growth cycle. It allows the follicle to rejuvenate and ready itself for the emergence of a new hair. At any given moment, approximately 10-15% of the hairs on a healthy scalp reside in this telogen state. The eventual conclusion of the Telogen Stage leads to the Exogen Phase, which is often considered an extension of telogen.

During exogen, the old club hair is released from the follicle, making way for the new hair that has already begun to form beneath it. This natural shedding of 50 to 100 hairs daily is a normal occurrence, a testament to the continuous renewal process of our hair.

Intermediate

Stepping beyond the fundamental biological explanation, the Telogen Stage holds a more profound resonance when viewed through the lens of textured hair heritage. The inherent characteristics of coily, kinky, and curly hair, with its unique elliptical follicle shape and intricate curl patterns, lend a distinct context to how this resting phase manifests and how it has been understood within ancestral traditions.

For generations, communities with textured hair have developed sophisticated practices rooted in observation and intuitive wisdom, long before modern science articulated the hair growth cycle. These practices, passed down through familial lines and communal gatherings, often inadvertently supported the healthy progression of the Telogen Stage, even if the scientific nomenclature was absent. Consider the meticulous routines of cleansing, conditioning, and protective styling that have defined Black and mixed-race hair care for centuries. Such practices, whether through the application of natural oils or the creation of intricate braided patterns, were not merely about aesthetics; they were acts of preservation, of nurturing the hair’s inherent strength and resilience.

Ancestral hair practices, though unburdened by scientific terms, often intuitively supported the hair’s natural resting and renewal cycles, safeguarding the strand’s legacy.

The understanding of hair’s cyclical nature, including periods of shedding, was often embedded in cultural narratives and rituals. For instance, in some West African traditions, hair shedding was not seen as a deficit but as a natural part of life’s continuum, a release that made space for new beginnings. This perspective aligns with the biological reality of the Telogen Stage, where shedding is a precursor to regrowth.

One might consider the traditional use of certain botanicals in African hair care, many of which are now being studied for their properties that may influence hair growth cycles. For example, ethnobotanical surveys in regions like Morocco and Senegal reveal a rich history of using plants for hair health, including remedies for hair loss. Ingredients like Lawsonia Inermis (henna), Rosmarinus Officinalis (rosemary), and various plant oils were applied, often with a deep understanding of their effects on scalp health and hair vitality. These practices, while not explicitly targeting the “Telogen Stage,” certainly contributed to a balanced follicular environment, minimizing undue stress that could prematurely prolong this resting phase or trigger excessive shedding.

• Henna (Lawsonia Inermis) ❉ Used for centuries across North Africa and parts of Asia, its paste, derived from dried leaves, was traditionally applied to strengthen hair, enhance color, and address concerns like hair loss and dandruff.
• Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) ❉ Infusions or decoctions from its leaves were commonly employed to combat hair loss and stimulate growth.
• African Black Soap ❉ A traditional West African soap made from the dry skin of local vegetation, including cocoa pods and plantain leaves, it cleanses the hair without stripping natural oils, supporting overall scalp health.

However, the journey of textured hair through history also reveals disruptions to this natural rhythm. The imposition of Eurocentric beauty standards during periods of colonization and slavery led to practices that often worked against the natural inclination of textured hair, such as chemical straightening and excessive manipulation. These practices, while attempting to conform to societal pressures, could induce trauma to the hair follicles, potentially impacting the duration and health of the Telogen Stage, sometimes leading to conditions like Traction Alopecia. The constant pulling from tight braids, weaves, or extensions, especially when combined with chemical treatments, places significant stress on the hair root, which can lead to premature shedding and, in severe cases, permanent hair loss.

The resilience of textured hair, however, has always shone through. The modern natural hair movement, a continuation of ancestral wisdom and self-affirmation, re-emphasizes gentle care, moisture retention, and protective styling that honors the hair’s inherent structure. This renewed focus on practices that respect the hair’s natural cycle implicitly supports a healthy Telogen Stage, allowing each strand to rest and renew without unnecessary duress.

Academic

The Telogen Stage, from an academic vantage point, is not merely a quiescent phase but a highly regulated biological process, a critical juncture in the follicular life cycle. Its proper functioning is integral to maintaining scalp homeostasis and hair density. A precise definition of the Telogen Stage, therefore, delineates it as the resting period of the hair follicle, characterized by the cessation of mitotic activity within the hair bulb and the detachment of the hair shaft from the dermal papilla.

This disengagement results in the formation of a ‘club hair,’ which remains anchored within the follicle, awaiting its eventual expulsion by the emerging new anagen hair. The duration of this phase, typically around two to four months for scalp hair, is subject to intricate genetic and environmental modulations.

From an academic perspective, the meaning of the Telogen Stage extends beyond its biological definition to encompass its implications for hair health, particularly within populations possessing textured hair. The inherent structural characteristics of afro-textured hair, including its elliptical cross-section and high curvature, render it more susceptible to mechanical stress and breakage compared to straighter hair types. This intrinsic fragility, coupled with historical and culturally driven styling practices, creates a unique context for understanding Telogen-related phenomena.

Consider the profound impact of practices like chemical relaxing, which historically gained prominence as a means of conforming to dominant beauty standards. While offering temporary alterations in hair texture, these processes can induce significant damage to the hair shaft and follicle, potentially disrupting the natural progression of the hair cycle. Research indicates that chemical relaxers can lead to hair and scalp disorders, including forms of alopecia. This prolonged or repeated trauma can prematurely shunt hair follicles into the Telogen Stage or, more critically, lead to a condition known as Telogen Effluvium, where a disproportionately large number of hairs enter the resting phase simultaneously, resulting in diffuse shedding.

A case study highlighting this intersection of biology and heritage can be found in the prevalence of Traction Alopecia within Black and mixed-race communities. This condition, characterized by gradual hair loss typically along the hairline or temples, arises from chronic pulling forces on the hair follicles. While it can affect all hair types, it is demonstrably more common in textured hair due to the widespread adoption of tight hairstyles such as braids, cornrows, and weaves, often worn for extended periods. A study examining hair loss in African-American women found that 59% reported a history of excessive hair breakage or shedding, and practices like chemical hair straightening and tight braiding were identified as contributors to traumatic alopecias (Rucker-Wright, 2010).

This statistic underscores how socio-cultural pressures and styling choices, deeply intertwined with historical narratives of beauty and acceptance, directly influence the health of the hair follicle and the dynamics of the Telogen Stage. The constant tension can damage the hair follicle, potentially shortening the anagen phase for affected hairs and prematurely forcing them into telogen, eventually leading to permanent follicular damage if the tension is not alleviated.

The intersection of hair biology and cultural practice offers a rich field for further exploration. Understanding the Telogen Stage within this framework allows for a more empathetic and effective approach to hair care for textured hair. It compels us to consider how historical experiences and ongoing societal pressures continue to shape hair care routines, and how these routines, in turn, influence the hair’s fundamental biological cycles.

By acknowledging the unique needs and vulnerabilities of textured hair, particularly during its resting phase, we can better inform care strategies that honor ancestral wisdom while integrating modern scientific understanding. This holistic view moves beyond superficial cosmetic concerns, reaching into the deeper realms of identity, wellness, and inherited legacy.

Moreover, the study of hair in anthropology, as highlighted by scholars like Emma Tarlo in Entanglement ❉ The Secret Lives of Hair, delves into the global trade and cultural significance of human hair, including the nuances of its journey from shedding to commodity. This broader context provides a deeper understanding of how hair, even in its telogen state, holds economic and social value, further intertwining biology with human experience.

Reflection on the Heritage of Telogen Stage

As we conclude our exploration of the Telogen Stage, a profound meditation on its significance within the textured hair journey begins to unfold. It is more than a biological phase; it is a whisper from the past, a testament to the enduring spirit of our strands. The rhythm of hair growth, its cycles of activity and rest, mirrors the ebb and flow of life itself, a truth understood by our ancestors long before microscopes revealed cellular intricacies. They knew, with an intuitive wisdom, that hair required periods of gentle care, of nurturing, and of release.

The Telogen Stage, then, stands as a silent sentinel of resilience. Despite centuries of cultural pressures, imposed beauty standards, and even the physical trauma inflicted upon textured hair, its inherent biological cycle persists. The follicles, these tiny, intelligent anchors of our identity, continue their dance of renewal, preparing for the next growth cycle even as old strands complete their journey. This unwavering commitment to regeneration is a powerful echo of the human spirit itself, particularly within Black and mixed-race communities, which have consistently found ways to reclaim and celebrate their hair as a symbol of defiance, beauty, and cultural pride.

Our journey through the Telogen Stage reminds us that the hair on our heads is a living archive, each strand carrying the stories of generations. From the meticulous practices of ancient African communities, who understood the profound spiritual and social meanings woven into each coil and braid, to the contemporary resurgence of natural hair movements, there is an unbroken lineage of care and reverence. This stage invites us to pause, to observe, and to respect the natural intelligence of our bodies. It encourages us to listen to the whispers of our heritage, guiding us toward practices that honor the sacred cycle of our hair, ensuring that each strand, even in its quietest moments, remains unbound, vibrant, and deeply connected to its ancestral source.

References

• Byrd, A. & Tharps, L. L. (2014). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Dabiri, E. (2020). Twisted ❉ The Tangled History of Black Hair Culture. Harper Perennial.
• Flowers, E. (2018). Hot Comb. Drawn and Quarterly.
• Omotoso, A. (2018). The symbolism of hair in traditional African culture. Journal of Pan African Studies, 11 (4), 11-23.
• Rucker-Wright, S. (2010). Hair care practices and scalp disorders in African American girls. Case Western Reserve University.
• Sieber, R. & Herreman, F. (2000). Hair in African Art and Culture. Museum for African Art.
• Tarlo, E. (2017). Entanglement ❉ The Secret Lives of Hair. Oneworld Publications.
• Davis-Sivasothy, A. (2011). The Science of Black Hair ❉ A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care. Sistas With Curlz.
• Berg, C. (1951). The Unconscious Significance of Hair. Routledge.
• Nitta, F. (2023). Anthropology of Hair. UH Alumni.