Survival Practices

Fundamentals

The phrase ‘Survival Practices,’ within the rich context of Roothea’s ‘living library’ and its dedication to Textured Hair Heritage, points to the ingenious and resilient methods developed by communities, particularly those of African descent, to preserve and sustain their hair traditions and cultural identity through challenging periods. This is not simply about physical continuance, but about the profound determination to maintain cultural markers, ancestral knowledge, and personal dignity when faced with forces seeking to erase them. It encompasses the collective wisdom passed through generations, adapting to new environments while retaining a core connection to the past.

These practices serve as a testament to the enduring spirit of individuals and groups who, despite immense pressures, found ways to care for their textured hair, not just as a cosmetic endeavor, but as a vital expression of self, community, and historical continuity. The understanding of ‘Survival Practices’ begins with recognizing hair as a powerful symbol. It goes beyond simple care routines; it includes the hidden languages of style, the protective qualities of traditional adornments, and the shared rituals that strengthened bonds within communities.

Survival Practices represent the resilient, ancestral methods and adaptive knowledge communities created to safeguard textured hair heritage amidst historical and societal challenges.

The Root of Care ❉ Early Understandings

In ancient African societies, hair care was a highly social and communal activity, deeply embedded in daily life and spiritual beliefs. Hairstyles communicated significant information about an individual’s status, including their age, marital status, wealth, and even their tribal identity. This was a world where hair was considered a conduit for spiritual power, particularly among groups like the Yoruba, who saw the head as the most elevated part of the body, where braided hair could send messages to the gods. The creation of intricate styles often required hours or even days, transforming these sessions into cherished moments for bonding among women and for passing down knowledge from elders to younger generations.

Traditional African hair care relied heavily on indigenous ingredients, sourced from the abundant natural environment. These substances were not chosen arbitrarily; they were selected for their inherent properties that nurtured and protected hair.

• Shea Butter (Vitellaria Paradoxa) ❉ A cornerstone of West African hair care, this butter, extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, provided deep moisture and protection against harsh environmental elements. It continues to be a revered ingredient today.
• Palm Oil (Elaeis Guineensis) ❉ Used for its conditioning properties, palm oil was a common ingredient in traditional hair treatments, contributing to hair health and sheen.
• Chébé Powder ❉ Originating from Chad, this powder, derived from the seeds of the Chébé plant, was known for its ability to aid in length retention and reduce breakage by sealing the hair cuticle, often mixed with other oils or butters.
• Various Plant Extracts ❉ Beyond these prominent examples, a multitude of leaves, barks, and seeds from local flora were prepared as oils, pastes, and rinses to address concerns like dryness, breakage, and scalp health, showcasing a sophisticated ethnobotanical understanding.

These traditional practices underscore a fundamental understanding of hair health that aligns with modern scientific principles of moisture retention and protective styling, even if the ancient practitioners did not articulate it in scientific terms. The emphasis on gentle manipulation, natural conditioning, and communal care laid a groundwork for what would later become survival strategies under duress.

Intermediate

Moving beyond the foundational understanding, the concept of ‘Survival Practices’ gains deeper meaning when examining its role as an adaptive mechanism in the face of profound adversity. It refers to the conscious and unconscious strategies employed by communities, particularly those impacted by forced migration and systemic oppression, to maintain their cultural identity and physical wellbeing through hair. This definition recognizes that hair, often perceived as a mere aesthetic feature, transformed into a potent symbol of defiance, resilience, and continuity.

The experience of the transatlantic slave trade profoundly altered the landscape of hair care for African peoples. Upon arrival in the “New World,” enslaved individuals often endured forced head shaving, a dehumanizing act designed to strip them of their cultural identity and communal ties. This deliberate erasure of self, a stark contrast to the reverence for hair in their homelands, compelled the creation of new survival methods. Yet, even under these brutal conditions, the spirit of ingenuity persisted.

Adaptive Measures in Bondage

Confined within unfamiliar environments, enslaved Africans had to adapt their ancestral hair care traditions using whatever scarce resources were available. This included substituting traditional plant-based oils and butters with items like bacon grease, butter, or even kerosene for conditioning and cleaning, despite these being less effective and potentially harmful. The necessity of preserving hair health for functionality during arduous labor, coupled with the desire to maintain a connection to their heritage, drove these adaptations.

One compelling illustration of ‘Survival Practices’ in action during this period involves the use of hair as a clandestine communication system. During the era of slavery, particularly in the Americas, cornrow braiding patterns, an ancestral African hairstyle, were utilized to convey secret messages and even to map escape routes. Enslaved people would braid intricate designs into their hair, with specific patterns indicating paths to freedom or safe havens.

Some historical accounts suggest that seeds and grains were concealed within these braids, providing sustenance for those attempting to escape or for planting in new, liberated territories. (Byrd & Tharps, 2014) This practice stands as a powerful testament to the resourcefulness and determination of enslaved individuals to retain agency and seek liberation through the very strands of their hair.

Hair, in times of extreme adversity, transformed into a covert medium for transmitting vital information and preserving the spirit of resistance.

Beyond practical applications, protective hairstyles, such as cornrows, twists, and locs, served as low-maintenance solutions for managing textured hair during long workdays, while also acting as a visual assertion of identity. These styles, often covered by headwraps, offered both physical protection for the hair and a veil of cultural preservation, at times a deliberate act to appear less appealing to enslavers. The continued practice of these styles, even when disguised, represented an unbroken link to African ancestry and a quiet act of defiance against the dominant culture’s attempts at erasure.

The Tignon Laws ❉ A Case of Resistance and Reappropriation

The ‘Tignon Laws’ enacted in Louisiana in 1786 serve as another poignant example of the societal pressures faced by Black women and their response through ‘Survival Practices.’ These laws mandated that Black women, both free and enslaved, cover their hair with a tignon (headwrap) to distinguish them from white women and diminish their perceived social status. Yet, in a remarkable act of reappropriation, Black women transformed this symbol of oppression into an expression of creativity and style. They adorned their headwraps with jewels, ribbons, and elaborate folds, turning a tool of subjugation into a statement of elegance and cultural pride. This historical instance demonstrates how survival practices are not merely about enduring, but about adapting, transforming, and reclaiming agency within restrictive frameworks.

The persistence of these practices, from the subtle use of natural ingredients to the overt display of adorned headwraps, illustrates the profound meaning hair held for Black communities. It was a site of memory, a repository of ancestral wisdom, and a living canvas for identity in a world that sought to deny their humanity.

Academic

The ‘Survival Practices,’ within the scholarly discourse of Roothea’s ‘living library,’ denote a complex set of adaptive cultural behaviors and biophysical mechanisms that enable the persistence and resilience of textured hair phenotypes and their associated cultural expressions across generations, particularly within populations subjected to systemic marginalization and environmental stressors. This definition extends beyond mere physical maintenance of hair to encompass the deep psychological, social, and political meanings invested in hair by Black and mixed-race communities as a primary locus of identity, resistance, and continuity. It represents a dynamic interplay between elemental biology, inherited knowledge, and socio-cultural innovation, manifesting as a continuous process of adaptation and affirmation.

From an academic perspective, ‘Survival Practices’ in the context of textured hair are not simply reactive measures; they are deeply embedded cultural phenomena that outlive the specific conditions under which they initially developed, as articulated by early anthropologists like Edward Burnett Tylor in his work on ‘survivals.’ However, this interpretation goes further, aligning with scholars such as Bronisław Malinowski, who argued that cultural elements persist because they retain or acquire new functions, thereby remaining integrated within the cultural system. For textured hair, these practices consistently serve vital functions related to protection, communication, and identity formation, making their continuance a testament to their enduring utility and symbolic weight.

Biophysical Adaptations and Ancestral Ingenuity

The unique helical structure of textured hair, with its varying curl patterns and propensity for dryness due to the challenges of natural sebum distribution along its coiled shaft, presents specific care requirements. ‘Survival Practices’ inherently address these biological realities. Ancient African communities developed sophisticated routines that optimized moisture retention and minimized mechanical stress, long before the advent of modern hair science.

These included the widespread use of emollients like shea butter and palm oil, known for their occlusive and conditioning properties, and the consistent application of protective styles. These practices were not random acts; they were informed by generations of observational knowledge and a deep understanding of the hair’s intrinsic needs within diverse climates.

The term ‘Survival Practices’ further encompasses the profound human capacity for ingenuity under duress. The transatlantic slave trade, a cataclysmic event, forcibly severed many cultural ties, including access to traditional hair care tools and ingredients. Yet, enslaved Africans demonstrated extraordinary adaptability.

They repurposed available materials—such as using animal fats or even industrial greases as emollients, and sheep fleece carding tools as rudimentary combs—to continue their hair care rituals. This adaptive capacity underscores a fundamental aspect of cultural survival ❉ the ability to maintain core practices even when the external environment becomes hostile and resources scarce.

A compelling historical example of ‘Survival Practices’ serving as a form of cultural and physical preservation is the strategic application of cornrow braiding during the period of enslavement. Beyond their aesthetic or protective qualities, these intricate styles functioned as covert cartographic tools and repositories of information. Enslaved women, through the specific patterns and directions of their braids, would transmit vital intelligence, including escape routes for those seeking freedom. Furthermore, they would conceal seeds of indigenous crops within their hair, safeguarding a means of sustenance and agricultural continuity in unfamiliar lands.

(Byrd & Tharps, 2014, p. 30) This act transcended mere hair styling; it was a profound act of resistance, a silent language of liberation, and a tangible link to a heritage that colonizers sought to obliterate.

The braiding of hair during enslavement became a silent, potent act of cartography and preservation, a testament to the enduring spirit of freedom.

Psychological and Sociopolitical Dimensions

The academic definition of ‘Survival Practices’ also acknowledges the significant psychological and sociopolitical dimensions of textured hair within Black and mixed-race experiences. Hair has historically been a site of both oppression and empowerment. Discriminatory practices, such as the enforcement of Eurocentric beauty standards through policies in schools and workplaces, have often compelled individuals with textured hair to alter their natural hair to avoid stigma or to secure economic opportunities. This pressure to conform, often resulting in the use of harsh chemical relaxers or heat styling, can have significant psychological tolls, including internalized racism, anxiety, and a diminished sense of self-worth.

The contemporary ‘natural hair movement’ can be understood as a modern ‘Survival Practice,’ a collective reclamation of ancestral hair forms and an assertion of self-acceptance. This movement actively challenges prevailing beauty norms and promotes the celebration of diverse textured hair types. It represents a continuation of the historical struggle for hair autonomy, moving from passive survival to active flourishing. Legislation like the CROWN Act in the United States, which prohibits discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles, represents a formal recognition of the necessity to protect these cultural expressions.

Intergenerational Transmission and Cultural Resilience

The transmission of ‘Survival Practices’ across generations is a central component of their enduring meaning. This intergenerational sharing of knowledge—from hair care techniques and traditional remedies to the stories and meanings embedded in hairstyles—is a powerful mechanism for cultural resilience. It creates a living archive of heritage, where each strand of hair carries the wisdom of ancestors and the narrative of a community’s journey.

This transmission occurs through various informal and formal channels ❉

1. Kinship Rituals ❉ The intimate act of mothers, aunts, and grandmothers styling the hair of younger generations serves as a primary conduit for passing down techniques, stories, and the cultural significance of hair. These moments strengthen familial bonds and instill a sense of pride.
2. Community Spaces ❉ Historically, and continuing today, barbershops and beauty salons within Black communities have served as vital social hubs where hair care is intertwined with conversation, communal support, and the exchange of information, reinforcing collective identity.
3. Oral Traditions and Storytelling ❉ Narratives about hair’s role in resistance, identity, and celebration are shared, ensuring that the historical meaning of ‘Survival Practices’ remains alive and informs contemporary hair choices.

The academic examination of ‘Survival Practices’ reveals that they are not static historical relics; they are dynamic, evolving expressions of cultural agency. They reflect a continuous negotiation between inherited wisdom and contemporary realities, affirming the enduring power of textured hair as a symbol of identity, belonging, and unwavering spirit.

Reflection on the Heritage of Survival Practices

The deep resonance of ‘Survival Practices’ within the story of textured hair is a testament to the enduring human spirit. It is a chronicle written not in ink, but in the very strands of hair, in the calloused hands that cared for it, and in the shared laughter and quiet determination that filled communal styling spaces. From the elemental biology that shaped the coil and kink, through the tender, deliberate acts of care passed across generations, to the vibrant expressions of identity that bloom today, these practices echo the very soul of a strand. Each twist, each braid, each application of a cherished oil, carries whispers of ancestors who understood that hair was not merely adornment; it was a living archive, a connection to the earth, a declaration of self in a world that sought to silence it.

The journey of textured hair is one of constant adaptation, a dance between ancestral wisdom and the demands of new realities. The profound significance of ‘Survival Practices’ lies in their ability to bridge time, connecting contemporary expressions of beauty and wellness to the deep well of inherited knowledge. It reminds us that our hair is a continuous conversation with our past, a vibrant dialogue that informs our present choices and shapes the path ahead. This heritage is not a static relic; it is a living, breathing force that continues to guide, protect, and inspire.

References

• Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. L. (2014). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Griffin.
• Maharaj, C. (2025). Beyond the roots ❉ exploring the link between black hair and mental health. Research.
• Mbilishaka, A. M. (2024). Don’t Get It Twisted ❉ Untangling the Psychology of Hair Discrimination Within Black Communities. American Journal of Orthopsychiatry.
• Oluwa, O. K. Omolokun, K. T. Ogbe, A. A. & Adebayo, O. A. (2024). Cosmetic Ethnobotany Used by Tribal Women in Epe Communities of Lagos State, Nigeria. Journal of Complementary Medicine & Alternative Healthcare, 12(4), 555845.
• Oluwole, A. E. (2023). What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 22(11), 1056-1061.
• Royaltee Magazine. (2021, February 17). Braids, Plaits, Locs ❉ The History of Black Protective Hairstyles.
• Tarlo, E. (2016). Hair Politics ❉ African American Women and the Cultural Implications of Hair. Bloomsbury Academic.
• Thrifts & Tangles. (2021, December 16). The Evolution of Black Hair for Beauty & Resistance.
• Tylor, E. B. (1871). Primitive Culture ❉ Researches into the Development of Mythology, Philosophy, Religion, Language, Art, and Custom (Vol. 1). J. Murray.