
Fundamentals
Military Inclusivity, at its core, represents the conscious and deliberate efforts by armed forces to welcome, support, and integrate individuals from all walks of life, regardless of their background, identity, or physical attributes. This extends beyond mere presence to ensuring equitable treatment, fostering a sense of belonging, and acknowledging the unique contributions each person brings. It’s about dismantling barriers, both overt and subtle, that might hinder an individual’s ability to serve effectively and authentically. In the context of Roothea’s ‘living library,’ this delineation of Military Inclusivity carries a special weight, for it is profoundly intertwined with the story of textured hair heritage, particularly the experiences of Black and mixed-race individuals within these structured environments.
The significance of this concept becomes strikingly clear when one considers the historical rigidity of military grooming standards. For generations, notions of “uniformity” often translated into policies that inadvertently, or sometimes overtly, marginalized those whose hair did not conform to Eurocentric ideals. This was not simply a matter of aesthetics; it was a deeply personal challenge to identity and self-perception, a silent battle waged on the scalp, carrying echoes of historical oppression. The explanation of Military Inclusivity, therefore, must account for this historical journey, tracing the shifts from exclusionary practices to a more expansive understanding of what constitutes a “professional” appearance.

Early Concepts of Uniformity and Hair
Historically, military institutions across the globe have upheld strict grooming standards, often rooted in practical concerns like hygiene, safety during combat, and the cultivation of a unified appearance. In ancient times, for instance, some soldiers shaved their heads to prevent enemies from seizing their hair in battle. Over centuries, these practical considerations evolved into broader symbolic meanings, with hair becoming a visible marker of discipline, adherence to authority, and group cohesion. The interpretation of these standards, however, was often narrowly defined by the dominant cultural norms of the time.
The initial drive for military uniformity in appearance, including hair, often inadvertently mirrored the prevailing beauty standards of the dominant culture, creating unspoken burdens for those with diverse hair textures.
In many Western military contexts, this meant that straight hair, easily styled into short, neat cuts or tight buns, became the unspoken baseline. This unstated designation, while seemingly innocuous, carried considerable implications for individuals whose hair naturally possessed different curl patterns, density, and growth directions. The statement of these rules, while appearing neutral on paper, created a lived reality of constraint for many.

The Unspoken Curriculum of Hair
The hair on one’s head, especially for Black and mixed-race individuals, is far more than mere biological filament; it is a repository of stories, a canvas of cultural expression, and a powerful symbol of identity. Ancestral practices, passed down through generations, often dictated specific hairstyles for various life stages, social statuses, or spiritual connections. When military regulations disregarded these inherent differences, they effectively asked individuals to shed a part of their cultural identity to conform.
This subtle form of erasure, while not always malicious in intent, had a tangible impact on the sense of self and belonging for those serving. The meaning of ‘professionalism’ became conflated with a singular, narrow aesthetic, leaving little room for the diverse manifestations of textured hair.
- Cultural Significance ❉ Hair historically conveyed marital status, wealth, age, ethnic identity, and community rank in many African societies.
- Practicality in Heritage ❉ Styles like braids and twists were not just decorative; they were protective, aiding in maintenance and health for textured hair.
- Resistance through Adornment ❉ Even under oppressive conditions, hair served as a quiet form of resistance, maintaining connections to ancestral traditions.
This historical context is vital to understanding the depth of the term ‘Military Inclusivity.’ It is not simply about allowing different hairstyles; it is about recognizing the deep heritage and cultural significance that hair holds for many, particularly those whose ancestors faced systemic efforts to strip away their cultural markers.

Intermediate
Moving beyond a fundamental understanding, the intermediate interpretation of Military Inclusivity delves into the systemic challenges and the gradual, often hard-won, policy shifts that have shaped its contemporary definition. This deeper exploration reveals how the concept has evolved from a superficial notion of ‘tolerance’ to a more substantive recognition of diversity as a strategic asset. For textured hair heritage, this journey has been particularly fraught, marked by periods of overt discrimination and persistent advocacy.

The Crucible of Conformity: Hair Policies and Their Impact
For decades, military grooming standards, such as the U.S. Army’s Regulation 670-1, served as a rigid framework, often failing to account for the biological realities and cultural expressions of textured hair. These regulations, initially designed to promote uniformity and discipline, were largely predicated on assumptions about hair types common in predominantly white populations. This historical bias led to policies that deemed natural styles like braids, twists, and locs as “unprofessional” or “unkempt,” creating an environment of discomfort and self-consciousness for Black women serving in the armed forces.
The historical application of military grooming standards often forced Black servicewomen into a painful choice between their authentic selves and perceived professionalism, highlighting a profound disconnect from their hair heritage.
The consequences extended beyond mere appearance. Many Black servicewomen resorted to chemical relaxers or tight hairstyles to conform, leading to significant hair damage and even hair loss. This physical toll, coupled with the psychological burden of suppressing one’s identity, underscored the profound need for a re-evaluation of these exclusionary practices. The very essence of what it meant to be a soldier, disciplined and ready for duty, was being undermined by standards that overlooked fundamental biological and cultural distinctions.

Echoes of Ancestral Wisdom in Modern Advocacy
The push for greater inclusivity in military hair policies can be seen as a modern manifestation of ancestral resilience and the enduring connection to textured hair heritage. Throughout history, Black hair has served as a symbol of resistance against oppression. From enslaved ancestors using braiding patterns to map escape routes to the defiant Afros of the Black Power movement, hair has consistently been a medium for asserting identity and challenging dominant narratives. The advocacy for changes in military regulations draws from this deep well of historical significance.
A significant turning point arrived in 2014 when the Army updated its grooming standards, initially banning large cornrows, twists, and dreadlocks. This decision sparked widespread criticism from Black women and advocacy groups, including the Congressional Black Caucus. They argued that these rules were racially biased and showed a lack of understanding regarding textured hair.
In response to this outcry, Defense Secretary Chuck Hagel initiated a review, leading to a rollback of some prohibitions later that year, allowing two-strand twists and increasing the size of acceptable braids. The terms “matted” and “unkempt,” often used with negative connotations for textured hair, were also removed from guidelines.
The evolution continued. In 2019, the Army lifted its ban on braids, twists, and dreadlocks entirely, with the Navy and Air Force following suit. More recently, in 2021, the Army announced further updates to Army Regulation 670-1, aiming to reduce racial and gender bias.
These revisions authorized a wider range of styles, including long ponytails and braids, and removed previous width requirements for cornrows, braids, twists, and locs. This movement was part of the Army’s “Project Inclusion,” a people-first approach recognizing that a diverse workforce is a competitive advantage.
These changes represent a gradual, yet meaningful, shift towards acknowledging the physiological realities and cultural importance of textured hair. The explanation of Military Inclusivity, in this intermediate context, is not merely about policy adjustments; it is about the military’s recognition that true strength lies in honoring the whole person, including their ancestral heritage expressed through their hair.

Academic
The academic delineation of Military Inclusivity transcends superficial policy changes, delving into its profound sociological, psychological, and historical underpinnings, particularly as they intersect with textured hair heritage. This scholarly examination reveals Military Inclusivity as a complex, dynamic construct, continuously shaped by evolving societal norms, scientific understanding, and persistent advocacy from marginalized communities. It is a critical assessment of how institutions, traditionally built on homogeneity, navigate the imperative of diversity while retaining their operational integrity. The meaning of this concept, from an academic vantage, extends to its long-term consequences on individual well-being, unit cohesion, and the very fabric of national identity.

The Sociocultural Matrix of Hair and Military Identity
Military Inclusivity, when viewed through the lens of textured hair heritage, becomes a compelling case study in the broader discourse of identity and belonging within hierarchical organizations. The historical imposition of Eurocentric grooming standards within armed forces reflects a deeper sociocultural phenomenon: the policing of Black bodies and the suppression of Afrocentric aesthetics. This is not a mere oversight; it is a manifestation of systemic biases that have historically conflated “professionalism” with a narrow, often racialized, aesthetic. As one academic analysis points out, “the military vilified 31% of their enlistees (Melin, 2016) by using a standard that by design was constructed to degrade” (Smith, 2018, p.
60). This statement highlights the disproportionate impact of restrictive hair policies on Black women, who comprise a significant portion of female service members.
The notion that textured hair styles, such as braids, twists, and locs, were once labeled “matted” or “unkempt” in official regulations carries a deeply problematic historical resonance. This language echoes derogatory terms used during slavery to dehumanize Black people and their hair, framing it as inferior. Thus, the military’s previous policies were not just about appearance; they were about perpetuating a racialized ideology that “othered” Black women, denying their inherent beauty and cultural practices. The implications of such policies extended to psychological distress, contributing to feelings of discomfort and self-consciousness among Black servicewomen.

Psychological and Physiological Tolls
The academic understanding of Military Inclusivity necessitates an examination of the tangible harm inflicted by exclusionary hair policies. Beyond the emotional burden, the requirement to chemically straighten hair or maintain tight, restrictive styles led to significant physiological consequences, including traction alopecia and persistent migraines. This is not merely anecdotal; it is a documented health concern that disproportionately affected women of color due to their unique hair textures.
The previous mandate for women to wear their hair in low, tight buns, for instance, was directly linked to hair loss, prompting the Army to approve healthier options. This scientific validation of lived experiences underscores the necessity of inclusive policies rooted in biological understanding, not just aesthetic preference.
Moreover, the mental strain of constantly conforming to standards that negated one’s natural self cannot be overstated. When a soldier’s hair, a profound aspect of their identity, becomes a source of scrutiny and disciplinary action, it erodes morale and can hinder overall well-being. This creates a cognitive dissonance where the individual’s commitment to service is challenged by an institution’s perceived rejection of their authentic self.

The Crown Act and Legislative Recognition
The legislative movement to address hair discrimination, particularly the CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair), provides a critical framework for understanding the evolution of Military Inclusivity. While initially a broader societal initiative, its impact on military policy has been noteworthy. The CROWN Act prohibits discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles commonly worn by Black people, reflecting a growing societal recognition of the historical injustices embedded in hair-related biases.
In response to this broader societal shift and persistent advocacy, military branches have taken significant steps to update their grooming policies. The Army, for instance, removed previous restrictions on braids, twists, and dreadlocks in 2019, and further loosened requirements in 2021, eliminating width constraints for these styles. This policy adjustment, while representing progress, still faces challenges in terms of uneven enforcement and the need for ongoing cultural sensitivity training.
The academic examination of Military Inclusivity thus extends beyond mere compliance with legislation. It involves a critical analysis of the power dynamics inherent in grooming standards, the long-term effects of cultural erasure on individuals, and the ongoing work required to truly dismantle systemic biases. It recognizes that true inclusivity demands not just policy changes, but a fundamental shift in institutional culture that values and celebrates the full spectrum of human identity, including the profound significance of textured hair heritage.

Reflection on the Heritage of Military Inclusivity
As we close this exploration of Military Inclusivity, particularly through the luminous lens of textured hair heritage, a deeper understanding emerges: this is not merely a bureaucratic adjustment, but a profound meditation on identity, resilience, and the enduring spirit of ancestral wisdom. The journey from rigid, often biased, grooming codes to policies that acknowledge and respect the myriad expressions of Black and mixed-race hair is a testament to the persistent voice of those who carried their heritage with them into service. Each coil, each twist, each loc, holds within it a narrative of adaptation, struggle, and ultimately, triumph.
The meaning of Military Inclusivity, in its most soulful sense, lies in its capacity to mend historical ruptures. For generations, the military, in its quest for uniformity, inadvertently asked individuals to shed a piece of their inherited self, to straighten the curves of their lineage, both literally and figuratively. This created a silent tension, a dissonance between the call to serve and the ancestral whisper that reminded them of who they truly were. Now, as regulations evolve, we witness a tender re-knitting of these threads, a recognition that strength is not found in homogenization, but in the vibrant tapestry woven from diverse experiences and identities.
This ongoing shift in Military Inclusivity mirrors the broader societal movement towards a more respectful and open world for natural hair, exemplified by legislative actions like the CROWN Act. It is a powerful affirmation that professionalism does not reside in a singular aesthetic, but in the dedication, skill, and spirit of the individual. The significance of this evolution stretches beyond the barracks; it sends a clear message to the next generation of potential service members that their heritage, their unique biological blueprint, is not a hindrance but a cherished aspect of their being, worthy of honor and respect. The unbound helix of textured hair, once constrained, now finds more space to unfurl, carrying with it the strength of generations past into the future of service.

References
- Childish Mane LLC. (2023). Unveiling the CROWN: A Journey Towards Inclusive Hair Policies for Black Women in the Military.
- Clark, M. A. (2021). U.S. Army aims to reduce racial and gender bias in new hair and grooming regulations. U.S. Army.
- Hagel, C. (2014). U.S. Military Rolls Back Restrictions on Black Hairstyles. Time.
- Jacobs, J. (2014). Natural hair advocates take on the US Army. BBC News.
- Mitchell, Q. (2021). Army announces new grooming, appearance standards. U.S. Army.
- Monroe, I. (2016). Military’s Ban on Nappy Hair. Rev Irene Monroe.
- Phillips, L. (2006). Womanist: A social change perspective rooted in Black women’s and other women of color’s everyday experiences and everyday methods of problem solving in everyday spaces.
- Sanders, B. (2021). U.S. Army aims to reduce racial and gender bias in new hair and grooming regulations. U.S. Army.
- Smith, C. (2018). The Policing of Black Women’s Hair in the Military. Journal of Pan African Studies, 12(8), 59-71.
- Tharps, L. (2021). Tangled Roots: Decoding the history of Black Hair. CBC Radio.
- Vanderhall, C. (2020). One Proposal for Improving Army Inclusivity for Women of Color: Update Hair Regulations.




