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Fundamentals

The journey of understanding self, particularly for those whose ancestral lineages are expressed through the vibrant, coiling wonders of textured hair, often begins with an elemental inquiry. What truly constitutes ‘identity in education’ when viewed through the lens of our hair heritage? This concept, at its simplest interpretation, speaks to the profound interconnection between an individual’s sense of self, their cultural ancestry as embodied by their hair, and their experiences within structured learning environments. It is a recognition that learning does not unfold in a vacuum; rather, it is shaped, affirmed, or sometimes challenged by how one’s very being, including the visible crown they wear, is perceived and allowed to exist within scholarly spaces.

For generations, the hair that grows from Black and mixed-race heads has been far more than a biological appendage. It has always served as a living archive, holding stories of ancestral lands, communal practices, and individual journeys. Its distinct formations—from tight coils to soft waves, from springy curls to dignified locs—carry a deep, inherited meaning.

Within educational settings, this aspect of self becomes a focal point, influencing how students feel about their belonging, their intellect, and their place in the collective pursuit of knowledge. The initial encounters within these spaces, whether affirming or dismissive of natural hair, set a significant tone for a child’s comprehension of their intrinsic worth and their capacity to thrive.

Identity in Education, for individuals with textured hair heritage, is a profound recognition of how one’s intrinsic self, deeply connected to their hair’s ancestral story, shapes their experiences within learning environments.

The image explores beauty and identity, with the woman's textured locs symbolizing cultural richness and strength. Light and shadow emphasize the intricate details of each loc, creating a powerful statement about Black hair traditions and individual self-expression within mixed-race hair narratives.

The Echoes from the Source ❉ Hair’s Earliest Meanings

To grasp the contemporary designation of identity in education, one must first look back, far into the past, to the origins of hair’s societal role. Long before formal schooling, in ancient African civilizations, hair was never merely a cosmetic feature. It represented social status, age, marital state, tribal affiliation, spiritual beliefs, and even one’s personal power. Hairstyles were deliberate, often intricate expressions, each strand a brushstroke in a larger cultural artwork.

The preparation and styling of hair were communal rituals, times for storytelling, for instruction, and for the transfer of intergenerational wisdom. This understanding of hair as a living symbol, rather than just strands, is foundational to our discussion.

The elemental biology of textured hair, with its unique follicular structure and growth patterns, allowed for these diverse and symbolic expressions. Coils and kinks, when tended with ancestral hands, could be molded into shapes that defied gravity, held hidden messages, or communicated allegiance to a particular lineage. These practices were not fleeting trends but deeply ingrained customs, transmitting historical context and cultural practices through the very act of care. For countless centuries, a person’s hairstyle could tell much about who they were and where they came from.

The striking portrait explores ancestral beauty through her carefully styled braids, highlighting the cultural significance woven into her textured hair, which is complemented by her patterned traditional attire. The image invites contemplation on beauty standards, cultural representation, and mindful hair practice within heritage.

Ancestral Care Rituals ❉ Early Pedagogy

Consider the ancient practice of hair oiling, passed down through generations in various African communities. These were not simply acts of beautification. They were lessons in botany, chemistry, and communal responsibility. Children learned which plants provided the most nourishing oils—shea, coconut, or palm kernel—and the precise methods for extracting and preparing them.

They understood the properties of these natural ingredients and how they supported hair health, providing moisture and strength. This traditional pedagogy, where knowledge of the earth met daily living, instilled a deep reverence for the hair and its connection to natural cycles. The communal setting of hair-dressing, often under the shade of a tree or within a family compound, served as a classroom where stories were exchanged, warnings delivered, and communal bonds tightened.

  • Shea Butter ❉ Derived from the nut of the African shea tree, used for centuries to protect and moisturize hair and skin, often applied during communal hair grooming sessions.
  • Palm Kernel Oil ❉ Extracted from the seed of the oil palm, a staple in West African hair care for its conditioning and strengthening properties, reflecting agricultural knowledge.
  • Chebe Powder ❉ Originating from Chad, this blend of herbs and spices is traditionally used to condition and fortify hair strands, a testament to specific regional ancestral knowledge systems.

The reverence for hair, therefore, was not abstract; it was tactile, embodied, and taught. The collective understanding of hair’s significance formed an early, informal curriculum that shaped an individual’s place within their family and wider society.

The monochrome image encapsulates the nuanced art of textured hair care, with one woman tending to another's coiled hair formation in a moment of shared wellness and ancestral heritage a poignant reminder of the interconnectedness of hair, health, and heritage rituals.

The Initial Encounters in Formal Settings

As formal educational structures arose, particularly those influenced by Western paradigms, the dynamic began to shift. Spaces designed for learning often brought with them unspoken or explicit rules about appearance that contrasted sharply with ancestral traditions. For Black and mixed-race children, their textured hair, once a symbol of heritage and belonging, could become a point of scrutiny or even contention. The child’s identity, so intimately linked to their hair’s natural formation, found itself challenged by environments that prized a singular, often Eurocentric, aesthetic.

The first time a child hears their hair described as ‘messy’ or ‘unprofessional’ in a school setting, something elemental begins to fracture. That early perception can sow seeds of self-doubt, leading them to question a part of themselves that their ancestors celebrated. The meaning of their hair begins to change from one of pride and connection to one of perceived deviance or otherness. This phenomenon is a subtle yet forceful form of racialization within scholastic spaces.

Ancestral Context (Pre-Colonial) Hair as a map of social standing and spiritual connection, celebrated in diverse styles.
Early Formal Education Context (Colonial/Post-Colonial Influence) Hair as a subject of conformity, often requiring alteration to fit 'neat' or 'proper' standards.
Ancestral Context (Pre-Colonial) Care rituals as communal learning, passing down knowledge of natural ingredients.
Early Formal Education Context (Colonial/Post-Colonial Influence) Hygiene standards imposed, sometimes implicitly or explicitly devaluing natural hair textures as 'unkempt'.
Ancestral Context (Pre-Colonial) Hairstyles communicate stories, lineage, and personal milestones within the community.
Early Formal Education Context (Colonial/Post-Colonial Influence) Appearance policies focused on uniformity, minimizing individual or cultural expression through hair.
Ancestral Context (Pre-Colonial) The shift from hair as a cultural document to a contested feature marks a significant historical departure in the perception of identity within learning.

This initial encounter sets a tone, where the interpretation of identity in education becomes a negotiation between inherited truth and external expectation. For many, it commences a lifelong discourse with their own reflection, shaped by the messages absorbed during formative years in classrooms and playgrounds. The early experiences with hair in school help shape one’s sense of belonging and academic capability.

Intermediate

Moving beyond the foundational understanding, the intermediate designation of identity in education delves into the social and psychological layers that impact individuals with textured hair heritage. This is where the simple perception of hair transforms into a complex interplay of personal well-being, societal expectations, and systemic pressures. The physical presence of hair, carrying generations of ancestral practice and meaning, becomes a visible marker within educational settings, subjected to interpretations that can either uphold or diminish a student’s innate sense of self.

The school environment is a microcosm of society, where prevailing beauty standards and cultural norms often dictate what is deemed ‘acceptable.’ For students with textured hair, this translates into a unique set of challenges. Their hair, which grows upwards and outwards, defying gravity in ways Eurocentric hair typically does not, can be deemed ‘distracting’ or ‘unprofessional.’ This labeling impacts their psychological state, leading to feelings of inadequacy or the need to modify their natural hair to conform. The significance of their hair becomes tied to an imposed standard rather than its inherent beauty and cultural lineage.

The intermediate understanding reveals how external pressures within schools can compel students with textured hair to alter their authentic appearance, connecting hair’s meaning to imposed standards rather than its inherent cultural value.

This evocative portrait explores the allure of textured hair and the elegance of monochromatic rendering the interplay of light accentuates the hair's natural pattern and the subject's unique features, celebrating both personal style and the cultural heritage inherent within diverse hair formations.

The Tender Thread ❉ Living Traditions of Care and Community

Despite external pressures, Black and mixed-race communities have consistently maintained and adapted their hair care traditions. This collective memory, often passed down through familial and communal practices, serves as a powerful counter-narrative to Eurocentric standards. These are the living traditions, the tender threads that connect individuals to their ancestral wisdom. A mother braiding her daughter’s hair, a grandmother sharing recipes for herbal rinses, or a community salon serving as a hub for cultural exchange—these are all sites of informal education where identity is not only affirmed but actively cultivated.

This heritage of care extends beyond styling; it encompasses profound knowledge of hair’s unique biology and its needs. From understanding the importance of moisture retention for coiled strands to the protective benefits of braiding and twisting, these practices reflect a sophisticated, generational science. The meaning of ‘care’ in this context is holistic, spanning physical health, mental well-being, and spiritual connection.

For many, hair is a sacred antenna that connects a person to spiritual realms and ancestral wisdom. This intimate activity builds bonds and shares knowledge within communities.

This intimate monochromatic image showcases a mindful approach to dark, coiled hair maintenance through controlled combing, symbolizing a deep connection to ancestral grooming traditions and the art of nurturing one's unique textured hair identity with simple yet effective practices like using quality care products.

Hair as a Repository of Resilience

Throughout history, hair has served as a silent, yet powerful, form of resistance. During the transatlantic slave trade, enslavers often shaved the heads of captured Africans in an attempt to strip them of their identity and connection to homeland. Despite such dehumanizing acts, many found ways to preserve their hair traditions. Secret maps were sometimes braided into hair to guide escape, and rice grains were woven in to sustain those fleeing bondage.

These stories exemplify the enduring spirit and ingenuity of a people determined to maintain their heritage even under extreme adversity. The hair became a symbol of survival and self-affirmation.

The mid-20th century Black Power Movement reignited a more overt embrace of natural hair, particularly the Afro, as a political statement and a symbol of collective pride. This movement, alongside the “Black is Beautiful” campaign, directly countered prevailing stereotypes of Black hair as ‘ugly’ or ‘unkempt.’, Wearing an Afro declared self-acceptance and agency, openly challenging Eurocentric beauty standards. The meaning of Black hair broadened to signify solidarity and a return to ancestral roots.

  1. The Afro ❉ A natural, rounded hairstyle that gained prominence during the Civil Rights era, representing Black pride, unity, and a rejection of Eurocentric beauty norms.
  2. Locs ❉ Historically and culturally significant, these free-form or cultivated strands symbolize spiritual connection, wisdom, and a deep, continuous lineage.
  3. Braids and Twists ❉ Ancient and versatile styles that served functional purposes like hair protection, but also communicated social status, tribal belonging, and even coded messages in times of oppression.
This striking portrait honors the inherent beauty of tightly coiled afro-textured hair, a celebration of natural hair amplified by carefully designed studio lighting and sharp monochromatic contrast. The styling and expression are a visual testament to self-acceptance, heritage and empowered self-expression through expressive coil formations.

The Psychological Weight of Conformity

The consistent pressure to conform to imposed beauty standards in schools significantly impacts a student’s self-esteem and overall psychological health. Black girls, for instance, are taught from an early age that the Black aesthetic is often devalued, particularly their hair. Negative messages describe natural Black hair as ‘wild,’ ‘distracting,’ or ‘unhygienic.’ These messages, whether subtle microaggressions or overt policies, can lead to feelings of inadequacy. The psychological weight of deciding whether to straighten natural hair with potentially damaging chemicals or face criticism affects one’s self-perception.

When a child is denied access to school or shamed for hair that is inherent to their identity, it can cause irreparable harm. Many adults recall childhood experiences of hair discrimination as foundational to their confidence struggles. This connection between hair, self-esteem, and social acceptance highlights why identity in education is so profoundly intertwined with hair heritage. The meaning of ‘belonging’ in educational spaces is often contingent upon visible markers of conformity, and hair, for Black and mixed-race students, frequently falls into this scrutinized category.

Academic

The academic elucidation of ‘Identity in Education’ extends beyond basic and intermediate understandings, scrutinizing its full complexity through rigorous research, historical analysis, and sociological lenses. At this expert level, the term denotes the dynamic, often contested, process by which an individual’s self-conception—particularly as shaped by their racial, ethnic, and cultural affiliations embodied in their textured hair—is recognized, affirmed, or suppressed within formal pedagogical structures. It accounts for the systemic forces, historical legacies, and psychological impacts that collectively delineate a student’s capacity to learn, to contribute, and to actualize their potential within educational environments. This concept acknowledges that hair is not a mere surface characteristic; it is a profound marker of heritage, subjected to judgments that often mirror broader societal inequities and influence academic trajectories.

The systematic marginalization of textured hair in educational settings reflects deeper currents of racial bias and the imposition of Eurocentric norms. These policies, whether explicit dress codes or unspoken expectations, serve to reinforce the idea that Black aesthetics are somehow incompatible with professionalism or intellectual rigor. The designation of what constitutes ‘acceptable’ appearance in schools has historically been a tool for social control, compelling students from marginalized backgrounds to divest from visible aspects of their identity in order to succeed.

The meaning of ‘success’ itself becomes conditional upon conforming to external, racially biased standards. This coercive dynamic impacts a student’s ability to achieve and their sense of worth within the learning system.

Academic discourse on Identity in Education uncovers how systemic biases, particularly against textured hair, constrain self-conception and academic achievement, revealing that educational success often demands conformity to Eurocentric beauty standards.

An evocative image showcasing minimalist adornment emphasizing elegance in afro hair, her silver head jewelry speaks to ancient African hair traditions and modern aesthetic principles. This portrait explores heritage and self-expression within the nuanced conversation of textured hair and identity, with deep cultural roots.

The Unbound Helix ❉ Voicing Identity and Shaping Futures

The biological structure of textured hair, often described as a helix, offers a powerful metaphor for the unfolding of identity in education. Just as the helix is complex and resilient, so too is the identity forged in the crucible of educational experiences. Ancestral wisdom recognized hair as a conduit to spiritual understanding and a record of one’s lineage. From this inherent connection, an understanding arises ❉ the unbound helix represents the potential for Black and mixed-race students to express their authentic selves without constraint, to allow their unique forms of beauty and heritage to be celebrated within the very institutions designed to shape their minds.

However, this unbound state is often challenged by deeply entrenched systems. The historical legacy of hair discrimination extends far beyond the school gates, influencing employment opportunities and societal perception. The struggle to wear one’s natural hair freely is a testament to the ongoing pursuit of social justice and racial equity.

The significance of protective styles—like braids, locs, and twists—lies not only in their functional benefits for hair health but also in their profound connection to cultural continuity and a visual language of resistance. These styles are expressions of culture and identity.

This monochromatic artwork captures the beauty of African diaspora identity through expressive coils of textured hair, a symbol of self-acceptance and cultural pride. Her gaze is self-assured, reflecting ancestral strength and resilience in the face of historical adversity, embodying holistic beauty.

A Historical Case Study ❉ The Pencil Test in Apartheid South Africa

To grasp the profound impact of imposed appearance standards on identity within an educational and societal context, one might examine the chilling historical reality of the “Pencil Test” during the apartheid era in South Africa. This was not a formal school policy, but a societal mechanism with direct implications for a person’s entire life trajectory, including access to education, housing, and employment. Under this oppressive system, if a pencil was placed in an individual’s hair and remained when they shook their head, they were classified as “Black.” If it fell out, they were “Coloured” (a mixed-race classification with slightly more privileges), or even “White” if their hair was straight enough.

This insidious method highlights how hair, a biological inheritance, was weaponized as a tool of racial classification and social control. It directly affected one’s designation, and thus their access to resources, including educational institutions and opportunities for advancement. The meaning of one’s hair was not self-determined; it was imposed by a regime designed to separate and oppress. This created immense psychological distress, forcing individuals to internalize harmful messages about their inherent worth based on their hair texture.

It underscored how deeply political and social Black hair can be. The Pencil Test powerfully demonstrates that identity in education, when subjected to such scrutiny, becomes a matter of forced assimilation or profound marginalization, shaping not just school experiences but life outcomes. This case illustrates the extreme end of systemic hair discrimination, providing a chilling precedent for less overt biases today.

Bathed in soft monochrome, the subject with expertly styled coiled hair and a hibiscus blossom evokes heritage through mindful grooming practices the portrait celebrates textured hair’s story of resilience, individuality and beauty. This image is a narrative of self-discovery, self-love, and cultural pride, showcasing wellness.

Systemic Bias and Academic Outcomes

Contemporary research validates the persistent influence of hair bias within educational frameworks. Studies indicate that Black students are disproportionately disciplined for hair or dress code violations. Black students, who constitute approximately 15% of the U.S. public school student population, account for a staggering 45% of all school suspensions related to hair being cited as a dress code infraction.

Furthermore, it is documented that 67% of Black students in majority-white schools report experiencing discrimination or bias connected to their natural hair. This disproportionality is not random; it stems from systemic bias and implicit racial stereotypes held by educators.

These discretionary suspensions, not mandated by law but rather by subjective policy enforcement, place students on a trajectory towards poor academic performance, leading to higher rates of dropping out of school and increased engagement with the carceral system. The impact of hair discrimination on teaching, learning, and achievement requires pressing attention. Black and mixed-race students frequently face disciplinary actions and exclusions due to their natural hairstyles, undermining their sense of belonging in scholastic spaces. A weakened sense of belonging and emotional distress directly affect a student’s ability to succeed academically.

The “Hair-Esteem Toolkit for Black Girls,” a Master of Public Health thesis from Yale School of Public Health (Hussett-Richardson, 2023), explores the relationship between self-esteem and hair among Black girls, with insights revealing that 86% of Black girls in a study reported experiencing discrimination prior to the age of 12. This early exposure to bias highlights the critical developmental period when self-perception and confidence are formed. When school environments perpetuate these biases, they can inflict enduring psychological trauma.

The Association of Black Psychologists has characterized hair discrimination as “esthetic trauma,” emphasizing its significant mental health implications. This research underscores that identity in education, when related to hair, profoundly impacts a child’s mental well-being and their long-term connection to learning.

The dignified portrait explores cultural traditions through a sebaceous balance focus, with an elegant head tie enhancing her heritage, reflecting expressive styling techniques and holistic care practices for maintaining healthy low porosity high-density coils within a framework of ancestral heritage identity affirmation.

Policy and Progress ❉ The CROWN Act

In response to this pervasive discrimination, movements like the CROWN Coalition have emerged to create legal protections. The CROWN Act, which stands for “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” aims to outlaw discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles, including locs, braids, twists, and Afros. As of 2024, states with the CROWN Act in place have observed a notable 25% decrease in reported incidents of hair discrimination in schools.

This legislative approach offers a concrete path towards validating Black and mixed-race hair heritage within educational and professional spheres. It represents a collective acknowledgement that students should not be forced to compromise their identity to pursue knowledge.

The ongoing fight for legal protections and societal acceptance is critical for fostering environments where Black individuals can celebrate their natural hair without fear of repercussion. This struggle also relates to deeper historical issues of how institutions define ‘professionalism’ and ‘appropriateness,’ which often implicitly uphold white Anglo-Saxon Protestant cultural norms as the default. The meaning of identity in education must therefore be understood as a contested terrain, where the right to self-expression, particularly through hair, is a continuing battle for equity and inclusion.

  • Legal Battles ❉ Cases like that of Darryl George, a Texas high school student denied access to public education due to his locs, exemplify ongoing legal challenges against discriminatory hair policies.
  • Community Advocacy ❉ Organizations like the Halo Collective campaign for schools and workplaces to adopt codes celebrating and protecting Black hairstyles, promoting respect and dignity.
  • Mental Health Impact ❉ Studies indicate that discriminatory experiences negatively impact students’ self-esteem and contribute to emotional distress, hindering academic and social-emotional growth.
  • Cultural Pedagogy ❉ Efforts to educate wider communities about the cultural and historical meaning of textured hair are vital to dismantling stereotypes and fostering a more inclusive educational environment.

Reflection on the Heritage of Identity in Education

The exploration of identity in education, particularly as it intertwines with textured hair heritage, reveals a profound, enduring story. It is a testament to the unyielding spirit of ancestral practices, the tender care passed from hand to hand across generations, and the resilient determination to voice authentic selfhood in the face of systemic pressures. We have witnessed how hair, from its elemental biological structure to its complex cultural designations, has served as a touchstone for identity, a living chronicle of resilience and beauty.

The strands that crown us carry not only the echoes of our beginnings but also the aspirations for our collective tomorrow. They remind us that the pursuit of knowledge should never necessitate a disavowal of one’s inherent self, nor a severing of ancestral ties. Instead, true education becomes a process of honoring and integrating every aspect of who we are, allowing our heritage to enrich, rather than restrict, our journey of learning.

The historical challenges faced by Black and mixed-race individuals in educational spaces, often centered on their hair, underscore a continuing need for empathy, understanding, and systemic transformation. When a young person can walk into a classroom with their natural hair, unburdened by scrutiny, they step into a space of genuine acceptance. That moment of freedom liberates their spirit, allowing them to truly connect with their learning, knowing that their entire being is welcomed.

This vision, where every strand is celebrated and every heritage revered, forms the very core of Roothea’s purpose. It is a soulful commitment to fostering learning environments where the unique beauty and ancestral wisdom of textured hair are recognized as powerful contributions to the rich tapestry of human experience, affirming that the soul of a strand truly holds boundless stories.

References

  • Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. (2002). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
  • Everett, A. (1966). Free Persons of Color of New Orleans ❉ An Introduction. University Press of Louisiana.
  • Griffin, L. (2019). A Dreadful History ❉ The Cultural and Social Significance of Dreadlocks in America. ProQuest Dissertations Publishing.
  • Griffiths, R. & Houghton, L. (2021). Hair in Place ❉ Locating the Significance of Hair in Social and Cultural Theory. Routledge.
  • Hussett-Richardson, S. (2023). “Hair-Esteem Toolkit for Black Girls” ❉ The development of a self-esteem toolkit for Black adolescent girls centering hair as a tool for empowerment. Yale School of Public Health.
  • Kempf, K. Duggins-Clay, P. & Ryan, T. (2024). Confronting Hair Discrimination in Schools – A Call to Honor Black History by Protecting Student Rights. IDRA.
  • Owens Patton, T. (2006). Biology of Black Hair ❉ A Study of Physical, Social, and Cultural Aspects. University of Texas Press.
  • Simone Mallory, P. (2020). Hair Politics ❉ The Global Search for an Authentic Black Identity. Palgrave Macmillan.
  • White, S. & White, G. (1995). Slave Narratives. Oxford University Press.
  • Williams, C. (2021). Tangled ❉ The Art and Struggle of Black Hair. Amistad.

Glossary

hair heritage

Meaning ❉ Hair Heritage is the enduring connection to ancestral hair practices, cultural identity, and the inherent biological attributes of textured hair.

textured hair

Meaning ❉ Textured Hair, a living legacy, embodies ancestral wisdom and resilient identity, its coiled strands whispering stories of heritage and enduring beauty.

within educational

Meaning ❉ Educational bias is a systemic leaning within learning environments that subtly undervalues or omits knowledge pertaining to textured hair heritage and care.

natural hair

Meaning ❉ Natural Hair refers to unaltered hair texture, deeply rooted in African ancestral practices and serving as a powerful symbol of heritage and identity.

textured hair heritage

Meaning ❉ Textured Hair Heritage is the enduring cultural, historical, and ancestral significance of naturally coiled, curled, and wavy hair, particularly within Black and mixed-race communities.

beauty standards

Meaning ❉ Beauty Standards are socio-cultural constructs dictating aesthetic ideals, profoundly influencing identity and experience, especially for textured hair within its rich heritage.

their natural

Ancient societies cherished textured hair with natural ingredients like oils, herbs, and resins, reflecting a deep heritage of care and identity.

ancestral wisdom

Meaning ❉ Ancestral Wisdom is the enduring, inherited knowledge of textured hair's biological needs, its cultural significance, and its holistic care.

their identity

Hair oiling rituals historically affirm cultural identity and ancestral connection for textured hair through shared care practices.

black hair

Meaning ❉ Black Hair, within Roothea's living library, signifies a profound heritage of textured strands, deeply intertwined with ancestral wisdom, cultural identity, and enduring resilience.

black girls

Traditional black soap connects deeply to textured hair heritage by supporting historical cleansing rituals and promoting natural hair vitality.

hair discrimination

Meaning ❉ Hair Discrimination is the prejudicial treatment of individuals based on their hair's texture or style, deeply rooted in the historical suppression of textured hair heritage.

crown act

Meaning ❉ The CROWN Act establishes legal protections against discrimination based on hair texture and styles frequently worn by individuals of Black or mixed heritage.

ancestral practices

Meaning ❉ Ancestral Practices, within the context of textured hair understanding, describe the enduring wisdom and gentle techniques passed down through generations, forming a foundational knowledge for nurturing Black and mixed-race hair.