Historical Belonging

Fundamentals

The concept of Historical Belonging, within Roothea’s ‘living library,’ is not merely an academic exercise; it is a profound recognition of the intrinsic connection between an individual’s present identity and the deep currents of their ancestral past, particularly as these currents manifest through the heritage of textured hair. This notion describes the inherent right and profound significance of feeling connected to one’s lineage, to the traditions, struggles, and triumphs that have shaped communities across generations. It suggests that our physical attributes, such as hair, carry within them echoes of historical journeys, embodying stories that stretch back through time.

At its simplest, Historical Belonging is the acknowledgement that we are not isolated beings, but rather strands in a vast, interconnected web of human experience. For those with textured hair, especially within Black and mixed-race communities, this connection takes on a tangible, often visible form. The spirals, coils, and waves are not just biological structures; they are living archives, repositories of cultural memory and ancestral wisdom. This recognition invites a deeper appreciation for the hair that grows from our scalps, transforming it from a mere aesthetic feature into a symbol of continuity and resilience.

Historical Belonging acknowledges that our textured hair is a living archive, connecting us profoundly to ancestral wisdom and enduring cultural narratives.

This definition of Historical Belonging extends beyond a simple understanding of lineage, delving into the ways historical events and cultural practices have imprinted themselves upon the very fiber of Black and mixed-race hair experiences. It is an invitation to explore the meaning of hair not just as a personal statement, but as a communal legacy.

The Root of Connection ❉ Hair as a Cultural Compass

For millennia, across various African societies, hair served as a powerful visual language, a living chronicle of an individual’s place within their community. Before the harrowing disruptions of the transatlantic slave trade, a person’s hairstyle could immediately convey a wealth of information ❉ their age, marital status, social standing, wealth, religious beliefs, or even their tribal affiliation (Byrd & Tharps, 2001; Jacobs-Huey, 2006; Mercer, 1994; Patton, 2006; Rooks, 1996; Tharps, 2021). The intricate patterns, the careful adornments, and the very act of styling hair were not just aesthetic choices; they were deeply embedded cultural practices, often communal rituals that strengthened familial and societal bonds (Thrifts & Tangles, 2021).

Consider the Yoruba People of Nigeria, where hairstyles held spiritual significance, crafted by skilled braiders revered within their communities. These styles were a form of non-verbal communication, a visual testament to identity and belonging (Afriklens, 2024). This historical context underscores the fundamental meaning of hair as a profound marker of self and collective identity, a tradition that was violently disrupted but never truly extinguished.

• Cornrows ❉ Traced back to 3000 B.C. in Africa, these styles often indicated tribal belonging, social status, and even personality in West Africa, Sudan, and the Horn of Africa.
• Goddess Braids ❉ Dating to Ancient Africa, these were viewed as works of art, precision, and creativity, often adorned with metal accents.
• Locs ❉ Seen in Egyptian carvings and artifacts, locs signified age or marital status in some communities, such as the Himba Tribe in Namibia.

Intermediate

Moving beyond a basic understanding, the intermediate interpretation of Historical Belonging acknowledges the complex layers of meaning and significance that have been etched into textured hair through centuries of human experience. It is about discerning how historical shifts, particularly those rooted in systemic oppression, have shaped the relationship Black and mixed-race individuals have with their hair, and how this relationship, in turn, has become a powerful expression of resilience and continuity. This perspective recognizes that the journey of textured hair is not a linear progression but a dynamic interplay of adaptation, resistance, and reclamation.

The transatlantic slave trade, for instance, represents a cataclysmic rupture, severing millions from their homelands and, in many instances, their traditional hair practices. Enslaved Africans were often forced to shave their heads upon arrival, a brutal act designed to strip them of their cultural identity and human dignity (Creative Support, 2022; The Gale Review, 2021). This period initiated a long and painful history where Black hair was systematically denigrated, viewed as “ugly” and “unacceptable” within the prevailing Eurocentric beauty standards (Lashley, 2020; Érudit, 2024). Yet, even in the face of such dehumanization, the spirit of Historical Belonging persisted, finding ingenious ways to manifest.

The story of textured hair is a testament to an enduring spirit, revealing how communities transformed oppression into powerful expressions of cultural resilience.

Echoes of Resistance ❉ Hair as a Silent Language

During the era of enslavement, hair became a clandestine medium of communication and a symbol of resistance. Cornrows, for example, were not merely a practical style for managing hair; they sometimes served as intricate maps, guiding enslaved people along escape routes to freedom (Ancient Origins, 2022; TikTok, 2022). Seeds and even gold nuggets were reportedly hidden within these braided patterns, providing sustenance and resources for those embarking on perilous journeys to liberation (Creative Support, 2022; The Afro Curly Hair Coach, 2022). This ingenious use of hair speaks volumes about the profound resourcefulness and unwavering determination to maintain a sense of self and community, even under the most brutal conditions.

The Tignon Laws of 1786 in Louisiana provide a compelling historical example of this enduring spirit of resistance. These laws mandated that free and enslaved Black women cover their hair with a headwrap, or “tignon,” in public, an attempt to visually mark them as belonging to a subordinate class and to diminish their perceived social standing (JSTOR Daily, 2019; Reframe52, 2024; Essence, 2020). The vibrant, elaborate hairstyles adorned with jewels and feathers worn by Creole women of color were seen as a threat to the established social order, attracting the admiration of white men and challenging racial hierarchies (JouJou Hair Studio, 2023; Essence, 2020).

However, Black women, with their indomitable spirit, transformed these symbols of subjugation into statements of beauty and defiance. They adorned their tignons with vibrant fabrics, ribbons, and jewels, turning a tool of oppression into a visually striking fashion statement that celebrated their unique beauty and cultural heritage (Reframe52, 2024; Essence, 2020). This historical episode highlights the deep connection between hair, identity, and the continuous assertion of self against forces seeking to diminish one’s being.

Academic

The academic understanding of Historical Belonging, particularly as it relates to textured hair, transcends anecdotal accounts, seeking to delineate its profound theoretical and empirical underpinnings. It represents a rigorous examination of how the physical manifestation of hair—its unique coiled and helical structures—intertwines with complex socio-historical, psychological, and cultural phenomena to shape individual and collective identity across the African diaspora. This intellectual inquiry positions textured hair not merely as a biological trait, but as a dynamic site of meaning-making, a corporeal testament to a deeply inherited past.

The meaning of Historical Belonging, therefore, is an elucidation of the persistent, often subconscious, influence of ancestral experiences on contemporary self-perception and communal solidarity. It is a clarification of how historical narratives are inscribed upon the body, influencing not only outward appearance but also internal psychological landscapes.

From an anthropological perspective, hair has consistently functioned as a potent marker of human diversity, offering insights into population histories and adaptive pathways (BA Notes, 2023). For people of African descent, the specific characteristics of textured hair—its varied curl patterns, density, and resilience—are not merely genetic expressions; they are phenotypes that have been historically racialized and politicized (ResearchGate, 2020). This racialization, rooted in the insidious ideologies of slavery and colonialism, sought to classify and devalue Black hair, positioning it as “inferior” to Eurocentric hair types (Lashley, 2020; USC Dornsife, 2016). Such historical denigration has had measurable psychological consequences, contributing to internalized biases and impacting self-esteem within Black communities (University of Michigan, 2016; BPS Explore, 2022).

The enduring legacy of this historical devaluation is evident in contemporary societal perceptions. A study by Johnson et al. (2017) revealed that White Women, on Average, Exhibited Explicit Bias against Afrocentric Hair, Rating It as Less Beautiful, Less Professional, and Less Attractive Than Straight Hair. Moreover, the Majority of Participants, Regardless of Ethnicity, Demonstrated Implicit Bias against Afrocentric Hair, Suggesting That Black Hairstyles Often Serve as a Strong Cue for Inferring Ethnic Group Identity and can Lead to Negative Perceptions (Innovatief in Werk, 2019).

This data underscores the continuing struggle against ingrained biases, highlighting how the historical imposition of beauty standards continues to affect the lived experiences of Black individuals. The implications extend beyond mere aesthetics, influencing access to employment, educational opportunities, and even social acceptance (USC Dornsife, 2016; JSTOR Daily, 2019; Thrifts & Tangles, 2021).

The Psychosocial Delineation of Hair and Identity

The academic inquiry into Historical Belonging also intersects with the burgeoning field of psychohairapy, pioneered by Dr. Afiya Mbilishaka. This innovative approach recognizes hair as a powerful entry point into mental health, acknowledging that the cultural meaning of hair is deeply stratified within lives, representing the most malleable phenotypic expression of race (Mbilishaka, 2018a; Psi Chi, 2020).

Dr. Mbilishaka’s work, rooted in a decade of research, demonstrates how Black hair is inextricably entangled with culture, identity, politics, and body image, offering a profound interpretation of its psychosocial significance (Psi Chi, 2020; Psychology of Black Womanhood, 2022; PSYCHOHAIRAPY, 2020).

This perspective suggests that the very act of hair care, whether through traditional rituals or modern styling, can serve as a conduit for processing identity, negotiating acceptance and rejection, and even healing from relational loss (ResearchGate, 2018). The academic discourse around Historical Belonging, therefore, is not simply about documenting past practices; it is about understanding their enduring psychological resonance and their capacity to shape contemporary well-being.

• Ancestral Hair Practices ❉ Traditional African societies utilized specific botanical knowledge for hair care, employing plants like Ziziphus Spina-Christi and Sesamum Orientale as shampoos and treatments, a practice now being explored through ethnobotanical studies.
• Hair as Communication ❉ In many African cultures, hair was a sophisticated communication system, indicating age, wealth, profession, relationship status, and religion.
• Resistance through Style ❉ During slavery, specific braiding patterns served as covert maps for escape routes, embodying a profound act of resistance and survival.

The historical context of hair care, often passed down through generations, forms a critical component of Historical Belonging. Traditional ethnobotanical practices across Africa reveal a deep knowledge of indigenous plants used for hair and skin health (Ethnobotany Research and Applications, 2025). For instance, a study in Afar, Northeastern Ethiopia, identified 17 plant species traditionally used for hair and skin care, with Ziziphus Spina-Christi and Sesamum Orientale being among the most preferred, used as shampoos and hair masks (Ethnobotany Research and Applications, 2025).

This enduring wisdom, often dismissed or overlooked, finds validation in contemporary scientific inquiry, bridging ancient practices with modern understanding. The very act of engaging with these traditional ingredients and methods becomes a tangible expression of Historical Belonging, a way to connect with the wisdom of those who came before.

The scholarly examination of Historical Belonging also encompasses the impact of hair on collective identity formation and social movements. The “Black is Beautiful” movement of the 1960s, for instance, marked a powerful resurgence in “natural” hairstyles, such as the Afro, as a collective identity and a counter-hegemonic movement against Eurocentric beauty standards (Lashley, 2020; Creative Support, 2022; Thrifts & Tangles, 2021). This period saw hair transform into a strong connecting force within the Black collective, a symbol of racial pride and political defiance (Lashley, 2020). The ongoing natural hair movement continues this legacy, challenging persistent discrimination and asserting the inherent beauty of Afro-textured hair in all its diverse forms (USC Dornsife, 2016; Innovatief in Werk, 2019).

The comprehensive exploration of Historical Belonging thus requires a multidisciplinary lens, drawing from anthropology, psychology, sociology, and ethnobotany. It necessitates an understanding of how elemental biology (the unique structure of textured hair) intertwines with ancient practices (traditional hair care rituals), through living traditions of care and community (the communal act of hair styling), to its role in voicing identity and shaping futures (hair as a tool of resistance and self-expression). The inherent meaning of Historical Belonging is therefore a multifaceted declaration ❉ that the history of textured hair is not merely a chronicle of oppression, but a vibrant testament to enduring spirit, ingenuity, and the profound, unbroken lineage of identity.

Reflection on the Heritage of Historical Belonging

As we close this contemplation of Historical Belonging, particularly through the soulful lens of textured hair, we recognize that its resonance stretches far beyond simple chronology. It is a profound meditation on the enduring spirit of communities, a whisper from the past that continues to shape the present and guide the future. The coils and spirals of textured hair are not just biological wonders; they are sacred maps, etched with the wisdom of generations, carrying stories of resilience, ingenuity, and unyielding beauty. Each strand holds an ancestral memory, a testament to journeys traversed and victories claimed, both grand and quietly profound.

The journey of textured hair, from its elemental biology to its profound cultural expressions, is a living testament to the “Soul of a Strand” ethos. It reminds us that care is not merely about product application, but about honoring a legacy. The tender thread of ancestral practices, the communal rituals of styling and adornment, speak to a deep understanding of wellness that extends beyond the physical, embracing the spiritual and communal. This enduring heritage of care, passed down through the gentle hands of grandmothers and aunties, represents a continuity of knowledge that contemporary science is only now beginning to fully appreciate and validate.

The unbound helix of textured hair continues to voice identity, challenging antiquated notions of beauty and professionalism, and reshaping perceptions of self and belonging. It is a powerful declaration that one’s history is not a burden, but a source of strength, a wellspring of profound self-acceptance. In every coil and curve, we see the vibrant continuum of life, a beautiful affirmation that our historical belonging is not a static destination, but a dynamic, living journey, always evolving, always returning to its source, and always, truly, belonging.

References

• Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. D. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Jacobs-Huey, L. (2006). The Hairdresser’s Invisible Hand ❉ Economic Organization and the Language of Hair in the African American Community. Oxford University Press.
• Lashley, M. (2020). The importance of hair in the identity of Black people. Nouvelles pratiques sociales, 31(2), 211–227.
• Mercer, K. (1994). Welcome to the Jungle ❉ New Positions in Black Cultural Studies. Routledge.
• Mbilishaka, A. (2018a). PsychoHairapy ❉ Using Hair as an Entry Point into Black Women’s Spiritual and Mental Health. Journal of Black Studies, 49(8), 830-845.
• Patton, M. T. (2006). Black Hair ❉ Art, Culture, and Business. University Press of Mississippi.
• Rooks, N. M. (1996). Hair Raising ❉ Beauty, Culture, and African American Women. Rutgers University Press.
• Rosado, S. (2003). The Grammar of Hair ❉ Identity, Language, and the African Diaspora. University of California Press.
• Thompson, S. (2009). Black Women and Identity ❉ What’s Hair Got to Do With It? Women & Therapy, 32(3-4), 283-301.