Fundamentals
Garrett Augustus Morgan, a name resonating through the annals of American innovation, holds a distinctive position within Roothea’s ‘living library,’ particularly when considering the intricate story of textured hair heritage. His contribution, often simplified to the invention of a hair straightening cream, carries far deeper cultural and historical significance for Black and mixed-race communities. This invention, born from an accidental discovery in 1905, represents more than a mere cosmetic product; it became a catalyst in the complex dialogue surrounding beauty standards, identity, and the enduring legacy of hair care practices within the African diaspora.
At its core, the Garrett Augustus Morgan’s hair refining cream, later known as a chemical relaxer, offered a method to alter the natural curl pattern of textured hair. Morgan, originally a sewing machine repairman, observed that a liquid solution he developed to reduce friction on sewing machine needles also smoothed out wool fibers. This accidental observation led him to experiment with the substance on an Airedale dog’s curly fur, and then on his own hair, finding it effectively straightened the strands.
The Garrett Augustus Morgan’s hair refining cream, a product born from an unexpected observation, altered the trajectory of textured hair care, prompting conversations that continue to shape identity.
The immediate practical meaning of this invention was to provide a means for individuals with tightly coiled hair to achieve a smoother, straighter appearance. In the early 20th century, a time when Eurocentric beauty ideals held considerable sway, this product presented an avenue for conformity to prevailing societal norms. The G.
A. Morgan Hair Refining Company, established in 1913, marketed this cream alongside other hair care items, including a curved-tooth comb designed to aid in the straightening process.
Initial Purpose and Reception
Initially, Morgan’s product aimed to address the manageability of textured hair, a common concern for many individuals. The idea of “refining” hair spoke to a desire for ease in grooming, which, for some, meant aligning with the straight hair aesthetic dominant in mainstream society. The product gained popularity, providing a commercial solution for hair alteration that had previously relied on more arduous methods like hot combs and various greases.
The public reception was varied, yet undeniably impactful. For many, it represented a step towards broader social acceptance and perceived professionalism, offering a pathway to navigate spaces where natural Black hair might have been deemed “unruly” or “unacceptable.” This perception, though rooted in oppressive beauty standards, gave the product a significant cultural foothold.
Consider the following aspects of its initial presence:
- Manageability ❉ The cream offered a seemingly simpler way to comb and style hair that was otherwise challenging for some to maintain in its natural state.
- Aesthetic Conformity ❉ It provided a chemical means to achieve straight hair, aligning with the dominant beauty standards of the era.
- Commercial Availability ❉ Morgan’s company made this hair alteration method accessible to a wider audience, moving beyond salon-exclusive techniques.
Intermediate
Moving beyond the fundamental introduction, the Garrett Augustus Morgan’s hair refining cream, and the chemical relaxers that followed its pioneering path, signify a more intricate chapter in the narrative of textured hair heritage. This invention did not simply exist in a vacuum; it became deeply interwoven with the social fabric of Black communities, shaping daily routines, economic endeavors, and the very concept of self-presentation for generations. The widespread adoption of these products, particularly from the mid-20th century onwards, speaks to a complex interplay of practicality, aspiration, and societal pressure.
The meaning of Morgan’s discovery expanded as its use became more prevalent. It transitioned from a novel invention to a household staple for many Black families, particularly for women and girls. The process of getting one’s hair “relaxed” became a shared experience, often a rite of passage, passed down through maternal lines. This practice, while offering a semblance of ease and a desired aesthetic, also introduced a new set of considerations regarding hair health and cultural identity.
The Evolving Landscape of Hair Care
The mid-20th century saw a significant shift in the hair care industry, with products building upon Morgan’s initial concept. Companies like Johnson Products Company, Inc. with their “Ultra Sheen” relaxer, further popularized chemical straightening, making it a sensation targeted specifically at Black women. This era solidified the relaxer’s place in the beauty regimens of millions.
The advent of chemical relaxers, building on Morgan’s initial discovery, reshaped beauty rituals and introduced a complex interplay of ease, aspiration, and health considerations within Black hair heritage.
The decision to straighten hair, while sometimes viewed as a personal choice, was often influenced by a broader societal context where straight hair was equated with respectability and professionalism. This was particularly true in the Southern states of the United States, where historical resistance to desegregation and widespread discrimination against Black individuals created heightened social pressures to conform to Eurocentric appearances.
A table illustrating the perceived benefits and growing concerns related to chemical relaxers during this intermediate phase provides additional clarity:
| Perceived Benefits for Users Increased Manageability ❉ Hair became easier to comb and style, reducing daily grooming time. |
| Emerging Concerns for Hair Health and Identity Scalp Irritation and Burns ❉ Strong chemicals often caused discomfort, lesions, and chemical burns. |
| Perceived Benefits for Users Achieving Desired Straightness ❉ Conformed to prevailing beauty standards, offering a sense of social acceptance. |
| Emerging Concerns for Hair Health and Identity Hair Damage and Breakage ❉ Repeated application weakened hair strands, leading to thinning or loss. |
| Perceived Benefits for Users Professional Appearance ❉ Straight hair was often associated with professionalism in workplaces and public settings. |
| Emerging Concerns for Hair Health and Identity Dependence on Retouching ❉ Continuous root application was necessary to maintain the straight look, creating a cycle of chemical exposure. |
| Perceived Benefits for Users The initial appeal of convenience and societal conformity began to encounter the tangible realities of chemical intervention on hair's natural structure. |
Cultural Impact and Shifting Perceptions
The cultural meaning of chemical hair straightening deepened as it became a norm. For some, it was a practical tool for navigating a world that often penalized natural Black hair. For others, it represented a departure from ancestral practices, a silent compromise in the face of systemic pressures. The discourse around “good hair” versus “bad hair” became deeply ingrained, reflecting internalized societal biases that favored textures furthest from African origins.
This period also witnessed the early stirrings of counter-movements, though not yet fully coalesced into the broad natural hair advocacy we know today. Whispers of discomfort about the burning sensation on the scalp and the eventual damage to hair health began to circulate within communities, laying groundwork for future re-evaluations of these practices.
The invention, therefore, holds a dual significance ❉ a testament to human ingenuity in problem-solving and a poignant marker of the enduring societal pressures that shaped beauty ideals for Black and mixed-race individuals. It is a reminder that heritage is not static; it responds to, adapts to, and sometimes struggles against the currents of history and cultural expectation.
Academic
The Garrett Augustus Morgan, when viewed through an academic lens, represents a profound intersection of scientific innovation, socio-cultural adaptation, and public health implications within the tapestry of textured hair heritage. The meaning of his hair refining cream extends far beyond its chemical composition; it encompasses a complex historical dialogue about identity, economic agency, and the persistent influence of Eurocentric beauty standards on Black and mixed-race communities. This invention, while offering a perceived solution to hair manageability in a discriminatory society, inadvertently set the stage for decades of health challenges and a deep, often painful, re-evaluation of Black beauty.
The chemical hair relaxer, a descendant of Morgan’s original formulation, fundamentally alters the hair’s disulfide bonds, transforming its natural coil into a straightened form. Early relaxers, often containing lye (sodium hydroxide), were highly alkaline, a pH range of 11.5 to 14, capable of causing significant chemical changes to the hair shaft and scalp. This chemical intervention, while achieving the desired straightness, often came at a considerable cost to hair integrity and scalp health.
Socio-Cultural and Economic Dimensions
The proliferation of chemical relaxers throughout the 20th century profoundly impacted the social and economic landscapes of Black communities. Hair salons became central hubs, not only for beauty services but also for social gathering, information exchange, and community building. The act of getting one’s hair “done” with a relaxer became a ritual, a shared experience that reinforced community belongingness and, for many, a sense of readiness to navigate a world that often demanded conformity.
However, this widespread adoption also reflected the pervasive societal pressure to assimilate. As anthropologist Lanita Jacobs-Huey (2006) notes, hair played a significant role in negotiating social meaning for African American women, with straight hair often perceived as a marker of professionalism and respectability. This perception was not benign; it was deeply rooted in a history where African physical features, including hair, were devalued.
The Garrett Augustus Morgan’s invention, through its chemical descendants, instigated a multi-generational discourse on Black hair, revealing the intricate connections between beauty, societal pressures, and the reclamation of ancestral identity.
The economic impact was also substantial, giving rise to a multi-billion-dollar Black hair care industry. While Black entrepreneurs like Madam C.J. Walker also built empires around hair care, the chemical relaxer segment grew immensely, reflecting the significant consumer demand. Black consumers spend disproportionately more on hair care products compared to other ethnic groups, a reality often exploited by companies marketing products, even those with potential harms, directly to them.
Health Implications and the Reclaiming of Heritage
A critical examination of the Garrett Augustus Morgan’s legacy necessitates an honest reckoning with the long-term health consequences associated with chemical relaxer use. The strong chemicals, including lye and later no-lye formulations, have been linked to a spectrum of adverse health outcomes. Scalp irritation, chemical burns, hair breakage, and permanent hair loss (such as Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia, CCCA) were common, almost normalized, experiences for many users.
More recently, rigorous academic research has unveiled alarming associations between frequent, long-term use of chemical hair relaxers and serious systemic health conditions. Studies from institutions like Boston University’s Black Women’s Health Study (BWHS) have been instrumental in this revelation. For example, the BWHS, which followed tens of thousands of self-identified Black American women for over two decades, found that Postmenopausal Black Women Who Reported Using Chemical Hair Relaxers More Than Twice a Year or for over Five Years Had a Greater Than 50% Increased Risk of Uterine Cancer Compared to Those Who Never or Rarely Used Them.
This statistic is not merely a number; it illuminates a profound and often disproportionate health burden carried by Black women, whose hair choices were historically shaped by societal pressures. The chemicals in relaxers, including endocrine-disrupting substances like phthalates and parabens, can be absorbed through the scalp, potentially interfering with hormonal pathways and contributing to the development of hormone-sensitive cancers.
The meaning of the relaxer, therefore, evolves from a tool of aesthetic transformation to a symbol of the enduring health disparities tied to racialized beauty standards. This understanding has fueled the contemporary natural hair movement, a powerful reclamation of ancestral identity and a rejection of imposed beauty norms. This movement represents a collective healing, a return to the reverence for natural texture, and a conscious choice to prioritize health and authentic self-expression over external pressures.
The shift away from chemical straightening, driven by health awareness and a renewed celebration of diverse hair textures, underscores a significant cultural pivot. Hairdressers, like Angelina Ebegbuzie, have witnessed this transformation firsthand, noting a dramatic decrease in relaxer services in their salons as clients choose to embrace their coils and kinks.
The ongoing litigation against manufacturers of chemical hair relaxers further highlights the gravity of these health concerns, bringing to light the lack of regulation and targeted marketing practices that have disproportionately affected Black women. This legal action seeks to hold corporations accountable and to safeguard the health of future generations, ensuring that the pursuit of beauty does not come at the cost of well-being.
The exploration of Garrett Augustus Morgan’s invention thus compels us to consider the ethical dimensions of beauty products and the societal forces that shape their adoption. It is a call to recognize the resilience and wisdom embedded in ancestral hair practices, which often prioritized holistic well-being and natural beauty, long before scientific studies affirmed the risks of chemical alternatives. This profound understanding of the relaxer’s impact helps to clarify its true meaning within the broader context of Black hair heritage, prompting deeper reflection on the journey towards self-acceptance and health equity.
The following list outlines key substances historically found in chemical relaxers and their known effects:
- Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) ❉ A highly caustic alkali, it permanently breaks disulfide bonds in hair, leading to straightening. It is known to cause severe chemical burns to the scalp and skin.
- Guanidine Hydroxide (No-Lye) ❉ Often marketed as a gentler alternative, it is formed by mixing calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate. While less caustic than lye, it can still cause irritation and hair dryness.
- Ammonium Thioglycolate ❉ Used in some “no-lye” formulations, this reducing agent selectively weakens hair’s cystine bonds. It can strip natural oils more thoroughly than alkaline hydroxides.
- Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives ❉ Found in some relaxers, formaldehyde is a known carcinogen and has been linked to respiratory issues and cancer.
- Phthalates and Parabens ❉ These endocrine-disrupting chemicals, often present in relaxers, have been associated with reproductive health issues, early menstruation, and various cancers.
A comparative overview of traditional ancestral hair practices versus chemical straightening methods reveals a stark contrast in philosophy and outcome:
| Ancestral Hair Practices Focus on Health and Preservation ❉ Utilized natural oils, butters, and herbs for nourishment, moisture, and scalp health. |
| Chemical Hair Straightening Emphasis on Alteration and Conformity ❉ Aimed at changing natural texture to achieve straightness, often at the expense of hair health. |
| Ancestral Hair Practices Communal Rituals ❉ Hair care was a bonding activity, passed down through generations, fostering community and cultural continuity. |
| Chemical Hair Straightening Individual Pursuit of Standards ❉ Often driven by individual desire for assimilation into Eurocentric beauty ideals. |
| Ancestral Hair Practices Identity Expression ❉ Styles like braids, twists, and locs conveyed social status, tribal affiliation, and personal narrative. |
| Chemical Hair Straightening Uniformity and De-emphasis of African Traits ❉ Sought to minimize visible African hair characteristics. |
| Ancestral Hair Practices Natural Ingredients ❉ Relied on plant-based remedies and traditional knowledge for care. |
| Chemical Hair Straightening Synthetic Chemicals ❉ Utilized strong alkaline agents and other compounds to break down hair's natural structure. |
| Ancestral Hair Practices The philosophical divide between nurturing and altering textured hair highlights the profound cultural shifts and health implications of Garrett Augustus Morgan's enduring legacy. |
Reflection on the Heritage of Garrett Augustus Morgan
The journey through Garrett Augustus Morgan’s contribution to hair care, particularly his hair refining cream, is a meditation on the enduring spirit of textured hair heritage. His invention, a scientific marvel of its time, unfurled a complex narrative, one that speaks to human ingenuity while also bearing witness to the societal currents that shaped beauty ideals. We observe how an accidental discovery, initially conceived perhaps for practicality, became entwined with the profound question of identity for Black and mixed-race communities across generations.
The story of the chemical relaxer, tracing its lineage back to Morgan’s early work, mirrors the very essence of Roothea’s ‘living library’ – a dynamic archive where ancestral wisdom meets modern understanding. It reminds us that hair is never merely a collection of strands; it is a repository of history, a canvas for self-expression, and a testament to resilience. The shift from the widespread acceptance of chemical straightening to the powerful resurgence of the natural hair movement is a vibrant testament to the enduring power of self-determination and the reclaiming of a heritage that was, for a time, overshadowed by external pressures.
This historical arc invites us to honor the full spectrum of experiences, from those who sought ease and acceptance through straightened styles to those who now find liberation and profound connection in their natural coils and kinks. The dialogue surrounding Garrett Augustus Morgan’s legacy is not about judgment, but about understanding the intricate dance between societal expectation and personal truth. It calls us to recognize the deep ancestral roots of hair care, the wisdom embedded in practices that nurture rather than alter, and the courageous journey towards a future where every strand tells a story of pride, health, and authenticity. The Soul of a Strand ethos, therefore, encourages us to view this history not as a static relic, but as a vibrant, living narrative, continuously informing our present choices and inspiring a future where textured hair is universally celebrated in all its magnificent, unbridled glory.
References
- Banks, I. (2000). Hair Matters ❉ Beauty, Power, and the Politics of Women’s Hair. New York University Press.
- Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. I. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- Collins, P. H. (2004). Black Sexual Politics ❉ African Americans, Gender, and the New Racism. Routledge.
- Giddings, P. (1984). When and Where I Enter ❉ The Impact of Black Women on Race and Sex in America. William Morrow.
- Jacobs-Huey, L. (2006). From the Kitchen to the Salon ❉ Language, Gender, and Discourse in the African American Struggle for Identity. Oxford University Press.
- Patton, M. (2010). African-American Hair as a Site of Political and Cultural Resistance. University of California, Berkeley.
- Robinson, J. (2011). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- Thompson, C. (2009). Black Women and the Politics of Hair. Palgrave Macmillan.
- White, E. (2005). The End of the Line ❉ The Decline of the Hair Relaxer in the Black Hair Care Market. Harvard Business School.
- Wilcox, A. (2017). Femininity, Hair Relaxers, and the Impact of Beauty Standards on Black Women’s Health. Columbia Undergraduate Journal of Public Health .