Cultural Reclaiming

Fundamentals

The spirit of Cultural Reclaiming, when viewed through the lens of textured hair, unveils itself as a purposeful return. It is an active embrace of ancestral practices, an acknowledgment of history’s echoes, and a vibrant assertion of selfhood for individuals whose heritage has been disrupted. This process involves a profound re-engagement with forgotten or suppressed traditions, methods, and meanings associated with hair, transforming them into living expressions in the contemporary world.

Cultural Reclaiming, at its core, is a restorative act. It seeks to mend the historical ruptures that severed many from their inherent hair traditions, allowing for a reclamation of inherent beauty and deeply rooted identity.

For generations, the intrinsic beauty of Black and mixed-race textured hair was shadowed by external narratives. Colonial forces and societal pressures often sought to diminish the rich symbolic meaning embedded within various African hairstyles, promoting instead a singular, Eurocentric standard of beauty (Erasmus, 2000). This historical imposition led to a profound disconnection, where traditional forms of hair care and styling were not merely discouraged but often actively suppressed. The journey of Cultural Reclaiming becomes a testament to resilience, a deliberate effort to reconstruct connections to a past deliberately obscured.

Understanding the elemental biology of textured hair forms a foundational layer in this reclaiming. Each strand carries within it the story of generations, a unique helix shaped by ancestral climates and ingenious adaptations. From the tightest coils to the most expansive waves, the inherent structure of textured hair speaks of resilience, requiring specific care that often finds its most effective answers in practices passed down through time. The re-discovery of botanical ingredients, the wisdom of protective styling, and the communal rituals of care all draw from this ancestral wellspring.

Cultural Reclaiming of textured hair is an intentional journey to reconnect with ancestral practices and celebrate inherent beauty.

Roots in Ancient Customs

The practices of hair care and styling in pre-colonial African societies were far from simplistic; they represented a complex language of identity, status, and spirituality. In these societies, hair was not solely a cosmetic adornment, it conveyed messages about a person’s tribe, social standing, marital status, age, and even religious affiliation (FMACCE,; BLAM UK CIC,). These practices were deeply integrated into daily life and significant ceremonies, reflecting a holistic understanding of self and community.

• Yoruba Hair Artistry ❉ Among the Yoruba people, for example, elaborate hairstyles held deep cultural and symbolic significance. Styles like Ṣùkú, meaning “piled up,” denoted a married woman or a priestess, while the Ìyàwò ọ̀ṣìngín was worn by newlyweds, its design conveying the communal support for the bride during marriage (DiscoverYoruba!,; Fashion with Ibilola,). The Yoruba believed that caring for the orí inú (spiritual head) was as crucial as tending to the orí òde (physical head), rendering hairstyling a sacred process often associated with deities like Ọ̀ṣun, the goddess of beauty and fertility (Fashion with Ibilola,).
• Spiritual Connotations ❉ Across various African cultures, hair was thought to be a conduit for spiritual energy, connecting individuals to their ancestors and the divine (Afriklens,). Adorning hair with beads, cowrie shells, or other items often served to display wealth, femininity, or even spiritual protection (Fashion with Ibilola,; DiscoverYoruba!,).
• Communal Significance ❉ The act of hair braiding itself was often a communal activity, fostering bonds between women and serving as a time for sharing wisdom, stories, and the continuation of cultural knowledge. These moments of care strengthened community ties, passing down intricate techniques and their associated meanings from elder to youth.

The sheer variety of traditional African hairdos, from the coiled styles of the Maasai warriors to the intricate braids of the ancient Egyptians, speaks to a heritage rich in artistic expression and cultural depth. Each pattern, each adornment, told a specific story, acting as a visual archive of individual and collective journeys (Afriklens,).

Intermediate

Moving beyond the foundational appreciation, Cultural Reclaiming signifies a dynamic process of discerning and re-establishing value for traditions that were once devalued or demonized. This involves not simply mimicking old styles, but understanding their deeper meaning and purpose, and thoughtfully integrating them into modern life. The meaning of Cultural Reclaiming extends to challenging the pervasive societal norms that have long favored Eurocentric beauty standards, especially concerning hair. It is a conscious redirection of gaze, from external validation towards internal affirmation rooted in ancestral pride.

The historical context of hair suppression, particularly during the transatlantic slave trade and colonial periods, is vital to comprehend the contemporary impulse behind Cultural Reclaiming. Enslaved Africans were often stripped of their cultural practices, including the shaving of their heads upon arrival in the New World. This act symbolized a deliberate removal of their African culture and identity, a method of dehumanization designed to sever ties to their homeland (BLAM UK CIC,; Darkspark,; Nuevo Noir,).

Despite this brutal erasure, enslaved individuals found ways to maintain elements of their hair traditions, often braiding intricate patterns that sometimes concealed seeds for survival or even maps to freedom within their strands (BLAM UK CIC,; Darkspark,). These acts, though borne of oppression, were nascent forms of cultural resistance, a quiet defiance that preserved a vital piece of their identity against overwhelming odds.

The Anatomy of Textured Hair and Ancestral Insight

From a scientific perspective, textured hair possesses unique structural characteristics that necessitate specific care. Unlike straight hair, which tends to have a more circular cross-section, coily and kinky hair often exhibits an elliptical or flattened shape. This shape, combined with fewer cuticle layers and a tendency to twist at various points, contributes to its remarkable volume but also makes it more prone to dryness and breakage if not handled with care (Johnson & Bankhead, 2014). The natural helical structure of textured hair, while breathtaking in its diversity, means that natural oils produced by the scalp do not travel down the hair shaft as readily as they do on straighter textures, leading to a predisposition for dryness.

Reclaiming hair heritage involves understanding its unique biology and honoring historical methods of care.

Ancestral practices, born from centuries of observation and communal wisdom, often held inherent solutions to these biological realities. For instance, the use of natural oils such as shea butter and coconut oil, common in many African traditions, provided essential moisture and protection (DiscoverYoruba!,). These practices were not just about aesthetics; they were about maintaining the health and vitality of the hair itself, ensuring its longevity and strength within its natural state.

The Struggle for Recognition

The journey towards Cultural Reclaiming has been marked by continuous struggle. Even in the modern era, individuals with textured hair, particularly Black women, often face discrimination and bias in academic and professional settings (Johnson et al. 2017). This persistent devaluation of natural hairstyles, often deemed “unprofessional” or “messy” (Dove, 2019; Padgett, qtd.

in Reidy & Kanigiri, 2016; TRIYBE, 2025), compels many to alter their natural hair texture through chemical relaxers or excessive heat, despite the potential physical and psychological harm (Dove, 2019; TRIYBE, 2025; Smith Scholarworks,). This pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty ideals reflects a deeply ingrained societal prejudice.

The Natural Hair Movement, emerging prominently in the 1960s and 1970s as part of broader civil rights and Black Power movements, represented a significant moment of mass cultural reclaiming. It encouraged a resurgence of pride in African culture and a rejection of the prevailing Eurocentric beauty standards (Nuevo Noir,; Afriklens,; Darkspark,). The Afro hairstyle, in particular, became a symbol of Black pride, empowerment, and defiance against societal norms, carrying a political weight beyond mere fashion (Nuevo Noir,; Johnson, 2017; Darkspark,). While society has undergone various socio-cultural shifts, the Afro continues to evoke associations of Black power and militancy, underscoring the enduring social and political meaning attached to Black hair (Johnson, 2017).

Academic

Cultural Reclaiming, particularly within the context of textured hair, represents a complex sociocultural phenomenon. Its meaning is defined not merely as a return to past aesthetic forms, but as an active, decolonizing epistemological shift that re-centers indigenous knowledge systems, ancestral practices, and embodied heritage as valid, authoritative, and empowering. This process involves the deliberate recuperation of cultural artifacts, rituals, and narratives previously marginalized or demonized by hegemonic power structures, thereby challenging imposed standards of beauty and belonging. It stands as a profound assertion of self-determination, recognizing hair as a significant cultural marker and an instrument of identity construction for Black and mixed-race communities.

The scholarly interpretation of Cultural Reclaiming necessitates an examination of its intricate relationship with psychological well-being, historical trauma, and collective identity formation. Hair, in this discourse, transcends its biological composition to become a semiotic device, conveying deep sociocultural significance and serving as a site of both oppression and resistance. Research indicates that the perception of social stigma against textured hair is substantiated by the devaluation of natural hairstyles, particularly by white women, leading to mental health difficulties such as internalized racism, anxiety, and chronic stress in academic and professional spaces (TRIYBE, 2025; Érudit,; W&M ScholarWorks,). The act of reclaiming one’s natural hair, therefore, becomes an identity-transformative experience, imbued with both personal and political motivations (Smith Scholarworks,).

One compelling case study that powerfully illuminates the Cultural Reclaiming’s connection to textured hair heritage and the enduring struggle against colonial impositions is the Achimota School dreadlocks controversy in Ghana. This instance, which unfolded in recent years, provides a poignant illustration of how deeply ingrained colonial beauty standards persist within post-colonial educational institutions, directly impacting the rights and identities of students with textured hair. In 2021, two Rastafarian students, Tyrone Iras Marhguy and Oheneba Kwaku Nkrabea, were denied admission to Achimota Senior High School, an academically elite public institution in Ghana, unless they cut their dreadlocks (VOA, 2021; Nkrabea, 2021).

The school’s stance reflected a long-standing rule requiring male students to keep their hair “low and neatly trimmed,” a regulation rooted in norms established during British colonial rule nearly a century prior (VOA, 2021). This policy, echoed in many Ghanaian public schools, often forces students with Afrocentric hairstyles to conform, despite the fact that white students entering the same education system are not subjected to similar demands regarding their hair (Nkrabea, 2021).

The Achimota School case exemplifies the ongoing battle to decolonize beauty standards within educational institutions.

The denial of admission to these students, whose dreadlocks were a direct manifestation of their Rastafarian religious beliefs and cultural identity, sparked a national debate about religious tolerance, cultural rights, and neo-colonialism through hair (VOA, 2021; Nkrabea, 2021). For Rastafarians, dreadlocks are not a mere fashion statement, but a sacred covenant, a public symbol of their vow and obedience to biblical commandments (VOA, 2021). The school’s insistence on conformity, therefore, amounted to an attempt to suspend the manifestation of their constitutionally guaranteed freedom to practice their religion (VOA, 2021). This situation reveals a crucial paradox in post-colonial nations: the constant negotiation between indigenous and external values, where colonial legacies continue to shape societal perceptions of “respectable” appearance (Nkrabea, 2021).

The courts eventually sided with the students, ruling that the school’s ultimatum was an “illegal and unconstitutional attempt” to impede their religious freedom (VOA, 2021). This legal victory stands as a significant milestone in the broader movement of Cultural Reclaiming, affirming the right of individuals to express their heritage and identity through their hair without discrimination. It underscores the profound meaning hair holds beyond superficial aesthetics, operating as a conduit for spiritual connection, historical memory, and personal agency.

The psychological implications for the students, who were faced with a choice between their faith/identity and their education, highlight the mental health toll imposed by such discriminatory practices (TRIYBE, 2025). The ability to express oneself authentically, including through hair, is inextricably linked to self-confidence and self-identity, and its suppression can lead to significant emotional and psychological distress (W&M ScholarWorks,; PMC,).

Interconnected Incidences across Fields: The Global Context

The Achimota case is not an isolated incident. It resonates with a global pattern of hair discrimination that disproportionately impacts Black and mixed-race individuals across various fields, including education, employment, and public life. For instance, studies have shown that Black women are 3.4 times more likely to be labeled unprofessional due to their hair presentation and 1.5 times more likely to be sent home for “unprofessional hair” (Dove, 2019; Emerald Insight,). This pressure results in an estimated 80% of Black women altering their natural hair texture through chemicals or heat to conform to organizational norms, a practice with documented physical and psychological consequences (Dove, 2019; TRIYBE, 2025).

The continuous diminution of Black identity through the disparagement of Black hairstyles has become a synonym for racism and can lead to psychological distress and mental instability (Érudit,). In response to these systemic issues, legislative efforts like the CROWN Act in the United States aim to prohibit discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles associated with race. Such legal interventions reflect the growing recognition of hair as a protected characteristic tied to racial identity and the need for policy to support Cultural Reclaiming efforts.

The academic lens on Cultural Reclaiming also examines the fascinating interplay of historical preservation and contemporary innovation. The knowledge base for textured hair care, once passed down orally through generations, now finds new life through online communities and social media platforms. Black women, particularly millennials, have significantly more positive attitudes toward textured hair, sharing techniques, resources, and fostering a sense of collective empowerment (Érudit,; TRIYBE, 2025).

This digital space becomes a modern-day communal hearth, extending the reach of ancestral wisdom and accelerating the pace of Cultural Reclaiming. It is a testament to the enduring power of community in perpetuating and evolving cultural practices.

1. Oral Histories to Digital Archives ❉ The transition of traditional hair care knowledge from familial oral transmission to widely accessible online platforms signifies a modern mode of cultural preservation, ensuring ancestral wisdom is not lost but democratized.
2. Hair as a Political Statement ❉ The consistent targeting of natural Black hair in various professional and educational settings underscores its enduring role as a political statement, challenging the implicit biases embedded within Western aesthetic standards.
3. Identity Affirmation through Practice ❉ Engagement with traditional hair care practices, such as intricate braiding or protective styling, actively affirms individual and collective identity, serving as a powerful counter-narrative to historical attempts at cultural erasure.

The implications of this movement are far-reaching, extending beyond individual self-perception to influence broader societal norms and policies. A truly comprehensive exploration of Cultural Reclaiming must acknowledge the resilience inherent in these practices, recognizing that what appears to be a mere aesthetic choice is, in fact, a deeply rooted act of self-preservation and cultural perpetuation.

Reflection on the Heritage of Cultural Reclaiming

The journey through Cultural Reclaiming, particularly as it breathes life into textured hair heritage, is a profound meditation on memory, resilience, and the quiet power of self-affirmation. It is a testament to the enduring spirit that refused to be silenced, even when faces with the most insidious forms of cultural erasure. The echoes from the source, those ancient rhythms of care and adornment, were never truly extinguished. They lingered in the collective consciousness, whispered in the tender touch of a grandmother’s hands as she coiled a strand, or seen in the defiant curl that resisted the chemical pull of conformity.

This reclaiming is not a simple nostalgia for a bygone era. It is a living, breathing archive, actively shaping the present and informing the future. Each coil, each twist, each loc that unfurls proudly is a conscious choice, a declaration of ancestral connection that resonates deeply within the soul. The tenderness of oiling a scalp, the patience of braiding, the shared laughter in a salon that feels like a communal hearth ❉ these are the tender threads that bind us to those who came before, weaving a continuous story of identity and grace.

The unbound helix of textured hair, with its inherent strength and unique character, becomes a potent symbol of liberation. It signifies freedom from imposed standards, from narratives of inadequacy, and from the historical burden of assimilation. To care for one’s textured hair in a way that honors its intrinsic nature and ancestral lineage is to engage in a deeply personal act of wellness, a holistic practice that nurtures not only the physical strand but the spirit that it crowns.

It is a joyful, courageous stride towards a future where every curl, every kink, every wave is recognized not only for its inherent beauty but for the rich, complex history it carries. This is the essence of Cultural Reclaiming ❉ a continuous flowering of heritage, celebrated one strand at a time.