Colonialism Diet

Fundamentals

The journey to understanding textured hair, in all its ancestral glory and modern resilience, often begins by peeling back layers of history. Central to this exploration, particularly for Black and mixed-race hair experiences, remains the concept of the Colonialism Diet. This term, at its most elemental meaning, describes the systematic, often subtle, imposition of foreign values, practices, and material resources onto indigenous populations, thereby altering their intrinsic relationship with their bodies, particularly their hair. It is not a dietary regimen in the conventional sense of food consumption, but rather a profound re-shaping of what the hair is “fed”—both physically through products and culturally through imposed aesthetics and perceptions.

Across generations, traditional societies cultivated a deep, interwoven wisdom regarding the care of their hair, rooted in localized ecosystems and communal practices. These ancient ways, passed down through oral tradition and lived experience, honored the intrinsic qualities of diverse hair textures. The Colonialism Diet, in its earliest manifestations, introduced a discord into this ancient harmony.

It represented a deliberate disruption, or sometimes an insidious erosion, of these self-sustaining systems of care and identity. The historical designation of hair textures as “unruly” or “difficult” emerged from this imposition, rather than from any inherent quality of the hair itself.

Early Disruptions to Ancestral Hair Practices

The initial phases of the Colonialism Diet involved more than just the arrival of new people; it brought differing worldviews that challenged established understandings of beauty and care. Indigenous communities, particularly those in African nations and the diaspora, held hair as a potent symbol of lineage, social standing, age, and spiritual connection. Pre-colonial societies meticulously groomed hair, recognizing its social implications as a significant part of community life. Elaborate braided, plaited, and sculpted styles were common, with specific designs communicating ethnicity or marital status (BLAM UK CIC, 2022).

The colonial encounter often dismantled these complex systems. The forced migration during the transatlantic slave trade, for instance, severed familial ties and disrupted the continuity of these practices. Enslaved Africans were often stripped of their traditional tools and ingredients, even their combs, which held personal and tribal identities through their carvings (Byrd & Tharps, 2001 via). This initial physical deprivation marked a stark beginning of the Colonialism Diet, starving hair of its accustomed, nourishing rituals and tools.

The Colonialism Diet signifies a re-shaping of what textured hair is “fed” – both physically through new products and culturally through imposed aesthetics.

Shifting Perceptions and Resource Access

Beyond the direct suppression of practices, the Colonialism Diet also involved a fundamental shift in perception. Colonial powers, driven by their own aesthetic ideals, often devalued and stigmatized Afrocentric hair, describing it with derogatory terms such as “wool” or “kinky” (Hagro, 2011 via). This re-labeling wasn’t merely linguistic; it carried immense social and psychological weight, framing natural hair textures as inherently less desirable or even unclean. This subtle yet powerful assault on the intrinsic beauty of textured hair became a cornerstone of the Colonialism Diet.

Furthermore, the economic objectives of colonialism often redirected agricultural output away from indigenous subsistence and traditional uses towards cash crops for export. This could impact the availability of local, natural ingredients that had been central to ancestral hair care practices for centuries. Palm oil, shea butter, black soap, and other plant-based emollients and cleansers were traditionally harvested and prepared for hair and skin nourishment (BLAM UK CIC, 2022). A shift in agricultural priorities, while perhaps not always a direct attack on hair care, subtly starved communities of their historical resources, compelling them to adapt or to rely on imported alternatives.

Intermediate

As we deepen our comprehension of the Colonialism Diet, its layers of impact become more distinct. This experience extends beyond mere physical alteration of hair to encompass profound psychological and cultural shifts. It speaks to a heritage interrupted, a lineage of care practices that faced immense pressure to conform or vanish. The intermediate understanding explores how these external pressures translated into internalized beliefs, affecting not only hair health but also self-perception and collective identity.

The Architecture of Devaluation

Colonial ideologies constructed an aesthetic hierarchy where straight hair became synonymous with beauty, sophistication, and even intelligence, while textured hair was disparaged as unruly, coarse, and inferior (Erasmus, 2000; Grayson, 1995; Thompson, 2009 via). This messaging was not accidental; it served to justify dominance and maintain social control, positioning European features as superior and non-European features as devalued (Phoenix, 2014; Sundberg, 2009 via). The meaning assigned to hair became a powerful mechanism for social stratification.

The societal implications of this imposed aesthetic were far-reaching. Within colonial societies, individuals with lighter skin and straighter hair often received preferential treatment, gaining access to better opportunities or social standing (Okazawa-Rey, Robinson, & Ward, 1986 via). This created a tangible incentive to alter one’s appearance, initiating a legacy of self-altering practices driven by external validation rather than intrinsic wellness. The choice, if one could call it that, to straighten hair became entwined with survival, a means to navigate a society structured by racialized beauty norms.

Internalized Standards and the Quest for Acceptance

The persistent pressure to align with Eurocentric beauty ideals fostered feelings of inadequacy, low self-esteem, and even internalized racism among many women of color (Phoenix, 2014). Generations grew up believing that their natural hair textures were less desirable, a direct consequence of the Colonialism Diet’s pervasive influence. This internalized belief could manifest as a profound emotional pain regarding one’s natural hair, a recurring issue documented in academic studies (OpenUCT, 2023).

The yearning for acceptance, a fundamental human need, became tethered to outward appearance. The introduction of chemical relaxers, often based on lye, from the late 19th century onward, offered a more permanent solution for achieving straight hair (BLAM UK CIC, 2022). These products, while offering a semblance of conformity, frequently caused significant damage to the hair and scalp, a physical consequence of the psychological and cultural pressures exerted by the Colonialism Diet.

The Colonialism Diet extended its reach to the depths of psychological well-being, fostering internalized beliefs of inadequacy for textured hair.

Loss of Indigenous Knowledge and Commodification

A deeply unfortunate consequence of the Colonialism Diet involved the erosion of precious indigenous hair care knowledge. Traditional practices, once a cornerstone of communal life and intergenerational wisdom, were often dismissed as primitive or unhygienic under colonial rule. This suppression of ancestral knowledge meant that intricate techniques, natural remedies, and the deep understanding of hair as a living fiber, intimately connected to identity and spirit, began to fade from collective memory or were forced underground. The emphasis shifted from holistic, preventative care to corrective measures driven by an imposed aesthetic.

Moreover, the Colonialism Diet facilitated the commodification of hair care, replacing locally sourced, natural ingredients with industrially produced, imported goods. This created a new economic dependency and disrupted local economies where women historically played a central role in preparing and distributing traditional remedies. The value transferred from local knowledge systems to external manufacturing, further severing the ancestral ties to hair care that had sustained communities for millennia.

• Systematic Devaluation ❉ Colonial powers promoted a racialized aesthetic, labeling textured hair as “undesirable” and straight hair as the standard for beauty and professionalism.
• Imposed Norms ❉ School policies and societal expectations often mandated specific hairstyles or hair alterations, compelling individuals to conform to Eurocentric standards.
• Erosion of Knowledge ❉ Ancestral hair care practices and the wisdom embedded within indigenous ingredients faced suppression or dismissal, leading to a diminishment of traditional knowledge.
• Economic Shift ❉ Reliance on imported, manufactured hair products increased, diverting resources from local, natural alternatives and disrupting indigenous economies.

Academic

The academic elucidation of the Colonialism Diet delves into its complex, interwoven mechanisms, recognizing it as a systemic imposition that fundamentally reconfigured the relationship between textured hair, its caretakers, and broader societal structures. This is not a simplistic historical footnote; it constitutes a pervasive, socio-economic, and psychological phenomenon rooted in power dynamics, intellectual subjugation, and the re-engineering of aesthetic valuation. At its most precise meaning, the Colonialism Diet describes the historical and ongoing process by which colonial powers and their lingering legacies have distorted indigenous hair practices, devalued ancestral hair textures, and suppressed traditional knowledge systems, thereby fostering a dependence on external cosmetic industries and promoting a singular, often Eurocentric, beauty standard that marginalizes and pathologizes textured hair. This historical re-orientation of beauty and care has had profound and enduring consequences on identity, self-perception, and cultural continuity for Black and mixed-race communities across the globe.

Analytical Frameworks for Understanding Its Meaning

To fully grasp the Colonialism Diet, scholars often apply critical race theory, postcolonial feminism, and cultural studies. These lenses illuminate how racialized aesthetics, deeply ingrained during periods of colonization, continue to influence contemporary perceptions of beauty and professionalism (OpenUCT, 2023). Frantz Fanon’s analysis of the psychological impacts of colonialism, particularly the development of “inferiority-guilt complexes,” provides a conceptual framework for understanding how individuals within colonized populations might internalize the devaluing gaze of the colonizer (Fanon, 1967 via). This psychological dimension is paramount; the diet, in this sense, feeds the psyche with messages of inadequacy regarding one’s natural state.

Moreover, the Colonialism Diet can be understood through the lens of knowledge production and suppression. Colonial elites, with the support of the nation-state, crafted “official history” that often denied a space for the knowledge systems of colonized peoples (Rahman, 1993 via). This extended to indigenous practices of hair care and herbal medicine. The deliberate undermining of these ancestral wisdoms fostered an intellectual dependency on Western scientific and commercial frameworks, effectively erasing centuries of empirical observation and holistic understanding related to textured hair.

The colonial influence extended to academic institutions themselves, where the study of African crops and traditional resources was often overlooked in favor of those serving metropolitan economic interests (Akena, 2012; Bjornlund et al. 2020 via).

Case Study ❉ The Proscription of Afrocentric Hair in Ghanaian Schools

A powerful illustration of the Colonialism Diet’s pervasive reach is found in the enduring legacy of proscribed Afrocentric hair beauty culture standards within Ghanaian senior high schools. Osuanyi Quaicoo Essel’s 2021 study, “Conflicting Tensions in Decolonising Proscribed Afrocentric Hair Beauty Culture Standards in Ghanaian Senior High Schools,” meticulously details how colonial-era mentalities about Black African hair continue to manifest in contemporary educational settings.

Historically, colonialists negatively described Afrocentric hair, labeling it as “reclusive, elusive and shrinking kinks.” This mentality seeped into Ghanaian colonial schools established by early missionaries and colonial governments, where specific Afrocentric hairstyles were “bastardised and proscribed” (Essel, 2021, p. 116). The reasoning behind these prohibitions often cited “good grooming and hygiene,” yet Essel’s research highlights a lack of “substantial scientific evidence” that natural Afrocentric styles, such as afros or dreadlocks, inhibit academic performance or socio-moral well-being. This historical act of proscription represents a direct imposition of the Colonialism Diet ❉ it dictated what hair was “acceptable” based on a foreign aesthetic, rather than celebrating the rich diversity of indigenous expressions.

The consequence of this institutionalized devaluation was profound. Students were often forced to cut their hair or adopt styles that conformed to European ideals, resulting in a loss of cultural connection and, for some, a deeply personal experience of shame (Essel, 2021). This practice persists in some Ghanaian schools today, serving as a palpable remnant of mental enslavement and a colonial legacy that continues to perpetuate anti-Afrocentric hair standards. The instance of a student being sent home or forced to alter their hair exemplifies the systemic force of the Colonialism Diet, demonstrating how external pressures translate into punitive measures that affect individual self-worth and communal heritage.

The experience described in the research, where individuals were compelled to “barb my entire hair” for the first time, underscores the depth of this cultural disruption. This ongoing struggle to decolonize hair standards within an educational context provides a poignant case study of the Colonialism Diet’s long-term impact on the collective psyche and the individual’s relationship with their ancestral hair.

• Physical Disruption ❉ The forced removal of traditional tools and ingredients, coupled with the introduction of new, often harsh, chemical treatments.
• Aesthetic Subjugation ❉ The systematic promotion of Eurocentric hair textures and styles as superior, simultaneously devaluing indigenous hair forms.
• Epistemic Violence ❉ The suppression and delegitimization of ancestral knowledge systems related to hair care, grooming, and its cultural significance.
• Psychological Internalization ❉ The development of internalized self-hatred or feelings of inadequacy regarding one’s natural textured hair, driven by societal pressure.
• Economic Dependency ❉ The shift from self-sufficient, localized hair care economies to a reliance on imported, manufactured cosmetic products and industries.

The Interconnected Dimensions of Impact

The Colonialism Diet operates across multiple dimensions. Economically, colonial agricultural policies often emphasized single cash crop production for European markets, neglecting the cultivation of indigenous plants used for traditional hair care and wellness (Settles, 2011). This shift not only altered land use but also disrupted local economies and weakened indigenous industries, including those involved in the production of traditional cosmetic ingredients (Umaru & Arabo, 2021). The historical displacement of these practices created a void, often filled by imported goods, further entrenching the Colonialism Diet’s physical components.

Sociologically, the Colonialism Diet fostered a deep-seated racialization of hair, where texture became a visible marker of perceived social status and even “human worth” (Mercer, 1987 via). This led to differential treatment, with reports of lighter-skinned, straighter-haired enslaved individuals being priced higher or assigned more “desirable” tasks (Thompson, 2009 via). Such historical inequities created a powerful, subconscious association between hair texture and societal value, a legacy that continues to affect perceptions and experiences today. The very concept of “coarse” hair, as Mercer (1987) notes, is a “compacted word infused with value,” reflecting this historical prejudice.

From a psychological perspective, the Colonialism Diet inflicted collective trauma, contributing to widespread body dissatisfaction and a compulsion to alter natural features to fit imposed ideals (Bryant, 2019; Henriques & Patnaik, 2020 via). This enduring pressure can lead to significant mental health challenges, highlighting the profound psycho-emotional cost of centuries of aesthetic subjugation. The Colonialism Diet, in its comprehensive meaning, is thus a multi-layered historical force that continues to influence personal and communal experiences of textured hair.

Reflection on the Heritage of Colonialism Diet

The echoes of the Colonialism Diet reverberate across the landscapes of textured hair, calling us to listen with reverence to the ancestral whispers and the vibrant narratives of contemporary resilience. This exploration moves beyond a mere intellectual understanding; it calls for a deep, heartfelt connection to the enduring heritage that has both endured and actively resisted these historical impositions. The meaning of our hair, in all its myriad forms, remains intrinsically linked to the stories of those who came before us, and those who steadfastly upheld their dignity despite profound pressures.

Reclaiming the Soul of a Strand

Our textured hair holds memory. It carries the wisdom of ancestral practices, the resilience of those who groomed it with natural ingredients despite scarcity, and the defiance of those who wore their coils and kinks with pride when conformity was demanded. The “Soul of a Strand” ethos, central to Roothea’s vision, speaks to this inherent spiritual and cultural significance of hair. It recognizes that each curl, coil, or wave is not merely a biological structure; it is a repository of history, a living connection to a vast, unbroken lineage.

The work of decolonizing our hair practices means consciously unlearning the lessons of the Colonialism Diet. It means discerning what truly nourishes our hair from within its deepest cellular structure and from the cultural wellsprings of our past. It requires us to question inherited beauty standards, to examine the origins of the products we use, and to seek knowledge from the same earth and wisdom that sustained our ancestors. This journey of reconnection allows us to honor the ingenuity and deep understanding of those who cultivated hair care before the arrival of external influences.

Our textured hair carries the wisdom of ancestral practices and the defiance of those who wore their coils and kinks with pride.

Nurturing the Unbound Helix ❉ A Future Rooted in Ancestry

The present moment offers a powerful opportunity to heal the historical wounds inflicted by the Colonialism Diet. The re-emergence of natural hair movements, the renewed interest in traditional ingredients like shea butter and African black soap, and the open conversations about the psychological impact of historical beauty standards are all signs of a collective awakening. This is a movement of reclamation, of choosing to nourish our hair, bodies, and spirits with practices that align with our authentic heritage, rather than the imposed “diet” of colonial influence.

It is a profound act of self-love and communal affirmation to choose ancestral wisdom, even when it means challenging deeply ingrained societal norms. Our collective healing, our ability to truly care for and celebrate our textured hair, is inextricably linked to our capacity to understand and dismantle the lingering effects of the Colonialism Diet. By valuing the knowledge passed down through generations, by recognizing the inherent beauty in our natural hair, and by supporting practices that honor our diverse hair heritage, we continue to write a new chapter—one where each strand remains a testament to resilience, identity, and unbound ancestral wisdom. This is the ongoing work of tending to the tender thread of our collective hair story, ensuring its vibrancy for generations to come.