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Fundamentals

The very notion of “Coils Waves” reaches beyond a mere description of hair texture; it acts as a declaration of genetic inheritance, a legacy whispered through generations. This term, in its deepest sense, refers to the inherent structural patterns within textured hair, encompassing the entire continuum from gently flowing waves to tightly wound coils. It acknowledges the natural architecture of hair as it emerges from the scalp, shaped by biological intricacies that differ significantly from straight hair types. At its base, hair, regardless of type, grows from a follicle, a tiny tube-like structure embedded within the skin.

For those blessed with straight hair, the follicle often presents a round cross-section, permitting the strand to grow uniformly outward. For individuals with textured hair, particularly those of Black and mixed-race heritage, the hair follicle is not round; rather, it is typically oval or elliptical in shape, sometimes even a flattened oval. This distinct follicle shape causes the hair strand to grow at an angle, dictating the degree of curl or wave as it extends from the scalp. The flatter the oval of the follicle, the more pronounced the coil, while a slightly oval shape produces softer waves.

These distinct follicular designs are not random occurrences; they are encoded within our genetic blueprint, passed down through the ancestral line. The science behind this involves the distribution of keratin, the fibrous protein that forms the primary building block of hair. In coiled and wavy strands, keratin production and distribution can be asymmetrical within the hair shaft, contributing to the hair’s tendency to curl upon itself. This asymmetrical growth, coupled with the unique shape of the follicle, gives rise to the characteristic elasticity and spring of textured hair.

It is a biological marvel, a testament to the diverse expressions of human appearance across the globe. From ancient times, communities recognized these variations, understanding that hair was not merely an appendage but a significant aspect of a person’s being, often imbued with cultural, social, and spiritual meanings.

Coils Waves represents the fundamental, inherited architecture of textured hair, a biological masterpiece carrying echoes of ancient lineage.

Early human societies, particularly those across the African continent, held hair in high regard, recognizing its distinct properties and its capacity to signify profound personal and communal information. Hair care was not a casual affair; it comprised intentional rituals, communal gatherings, and the application of natural substances derived from the earth. Before the devastations of the transatlantic slave trade, West African societies understood hair as a carrier of intricate language and messages. Hairstyles conveyed a person’s age, marital status, religious affiliation, social standing, tribal identity, and even their wealth.

The very act of caring for Coils Waves was a communal activity, fostering connection and the transmission of knowledge from elder hands to younger ones. This collective nurturing affirmed the inherent beauty and strength of these textures, laying a foundational heritage for their enduring cultural relevance.

The monochromatic composition accentuates the rich texture and sculptural quality of her hair, an expressive statement of heritage and refined beauty. Light dances across the contours of her sculpted finger waves, symbolizing an individual's embrace of both ancestral roots and contemporary style, echoing historical beauty paradigms.

The Inherent Structure of Coils Waves

At its core, the physical formation of Coils Waves is a marvel of natural engineering. The hair shaft, which is the visible part of the hair, consists of three primary layers ❉ the medulla, the cortex, and the cuticle. The cuticle, the outermost layer, acts as a protective shield, made of overlapping, scale-like cells. In straight hair, these scales tend to lie flat, while in coiled hair, the curves and bends can cause the cuticle scales to lift, making textured hair more prone to moisture loss and dryness.

This particular structural reality necessitates specific care practices to ensure hydration and resilience. The cortex, positioned beneath the cuticle, comprises the bulk of the hair strand and is responsible for its strength, elasticity, and color. Within the cortex, alpha-keratin proteins assemble into coiled-coil structures, which then form intermediate filaments. The way these helical keratin structures are distributed and bonded influences the overall curl pattern.

It is important to remember that the distinct characteristics of Coils Waves, from their shape to their moisture needs, are not deficiencies; they are inherent properties of a unique biological form. This deep understanding empowers individuals to care for their textured hair with reverence, recognizing its natural inclinations rather than attempting to force it into unnatural forms. The scientific elucidation of hair structure, while modern, often echoes the empirical wisdom of ancestral care practices that intuitively addressed the needs of Coils Waves, preserving their vitality across time.

Intermediate

Moving beyond the basic biological characteristics, the meaning of Coils Waves deepens into a conversation about molecular architecture and its profound cultural reverberations. The curl of hair originates at the root, stemming directly from the asymmetrical shape of the hair follicle and the angle at which it emerges from the scalp. While a round follicle permits hair to grow straight, an oval or elliptical follicle causes the hair strand to spiral as it elongates. The degree of ellipticity directly correlates with the tightness of the curl ❉ a slight oval creates waves, while a flatter, more ribbon-like oval yields tight coils.

This intricate structure is further influenced by the disulfide bonds within the hair’s cortex. These are strong, permanent chemical bonds formed between sulfur atoms in the keratin protein. The distribution and alignment of these bonds along the hair shaft contribute significantly to the hair’s inherent curl pattern. When hair undergoes chemical treatments, such as relaxing or perming, these disulfide bonds are intentionally broken and reformed to alter the hair’s natural shape.

Beyond these permanent bonds, hydrogen bonds are also present, which are temporary and responsive to moisture. These are the bonds that cause hair to revert to its natural curl pattern in humid conditions or when wet, reminding us of the dynamic, fluid nature of Coils Waves. The inherent twists and turns in curly and coily hair create a more complex pathway for the scalp’s natural oils (sebum) to travel down the hair shaft. This often results in textured hair being naturally drier than straight hair, a biological reality that underscores the importance of consistent hydration and moisture retention practices, which have been cornerstones of ancestral hair care for millennia.

Coils Waves are a testament to complex genetic and chemical interactions, presenting a unique biological form that has shaped centuries of cultural care.

This elegant monochrome portrait captures the beauty of textured hair formations, showcasing an artful blend of flowing waves and intricate braids that celebrate Black hair traditions. The image evokes a sense of heritage and ancestral connection through expressive styling.

Historical Interpretations and Shifts in Perception

The understanding of Coils Waves stretches far beyond laboratory analyses; it resides deeply within historical and cultural contexts, particularly for Black and mixed-race communities. For centuries, across various African societies, the inherent patterns of Coils Waves were celebrated as symbols of beauty, spiritual connection, and social identity. Hairstyles communicated a person’s marital status, age, community role, and even their spiritual leanings.

The artistry involved in styling these textures was a revered skill, passed through generations, often as a communal activity fostering bonds and cultural continuity. These traditional practices honored the hair’s natural state, focusing on maintaining its health and vitality through natural ingredients and methods.

The advent of the transatlantic slave trade violently disrupted these profound traditions. The forced removal of African peoples from their homelands brought with it a systemic effort to strip away their cultural identity, which frequently began with the shaving of heads. This act of dehumanization aimed to sever the spiritual and cultural ties embedded in hair, forcing enslaved individuals into new, oppressive environments where traditional hair care resources and the time to perform intricate styles were largely unavailable. In this new context, African hair, once a symbol of pride and heritage, was often disparaged and deemed “unruly” or “unprofessional” by Eurocentric beauty standards.

The term “wool” was even used by some in the 1700s to describe African textured hair, further dehumanizing enslaved people. This historical trauma created a complex relationship with Coils Waves, where efforts to conform to dominant beauty norms, often through chemical or heat-based straightening, became intertwined with survival and a quest for acceptance.

Era/Context Pre-Colonial Africa
Cultural Perception of Coils Waves Symbols of identity, status, spirituality, beauty. Highly valued.
Common Hair Care Practices Communal grooming, natural oils (e.g. Shea butter), intricate braiding, threading, adornment.
Era/Context Transatlantic Slave Trade & Enslavement
Cultural Perception of Coils Waves Dehumanized, "unruly," associated with inferiority by oppressors. Resistance maintained through hidden practices.
Common Hair Care Practices Head shaving upon arrival, limited time for care, use of unconventional emollients (bacon grease, butter), secret braiding, headwraps.
Era/Context Post-Emancipation to Mid-20th Century (Western World)
Cultural Perception of Coils Waves Often deemed "undesirable" or "unprofessional" by dominant Eurocentric standards. Straight hair seen as a pathway to opportunity.
Common Hair Care Practices Introduction of pressing combs, chemical relaxers (e.g. lye-based), heavy greases for straightening.
Era/Context These shifts highlight the resilient nature of Coils Waves and the communities who carry this heritage, constantly navigating external pressures while maintaining internal cultural truths.

The persistence of traditional hair practices, even in the face of immense pressure, speaks to the enduring strength of heritage. Enslaved Africans, despite brutal conditions, often continued to braid their hair, sometimes concealing seeds within cornrows as a means of survival, weaving a literal and figurative map to freedom. This continuity, though altered, underscores the profound connection between Coils Waves and a people’s resolve to retain identity.

Academic

The precise meaning of Coils Waves, viewed through an academic lens, encompasses a complex interweaving of biophysical architecture, genetic predispositions, and the profound socio-cultural and historical contexts that have shaped its perception and treatment across human civilizations. Coils Waves refers to the inherent morphological and structural characteristics of textured hair, ranging from discernible wave patterns to tightly packed, helical coils, primarily observed in individuals of African and mixed-race descent. This biophysical reality is intrinsically linked to the elliptical or flat-oval cross-sectional geometry of the hair follicle, which dictates the angle of hair growth and the degree of curvature as the strand emerges from the scalp.

The uneven distribution of keratin proteins within the hair shaft, along with the precise arrangement of disulfide bonds and hydrogen bonds, further contributes to the hair’s characteristic helical winding, elasticity, and susceptibility to environmental factors such as humidity. This inherent structural variability, while biologically fascinating, has been subjected to centuries of interpretation, judgment, and adaptation, particularly within the diasporic experiences of Black communities.

From an anthropological standpoint, Coils Waves is not merely a biological trait; it represents a living archive of identity, resistance, and cultural transmission. Before the transatlantic slave trade, various African societies practiced elaborate hair rituals, treating Coils Waves as sacred. Hair was a visual language system, communicating everything from a person’s age and marital status to their tribal affiliation and spiritual connections.

The labor and artistry dedicated to hair care fostered communal bonds, transmitting ancestral knowledge and reinforcing collective identity. These traditions often involved natural emollients like Shea butter, intricate braiding, and the deliberate use of hair to connect with spiritual realms.

Coils Waves signifies a biological truth imbued with centuries of cultural meaning, a testament to enduring identity through historical currents.

This monochrome portrait celebrates the diversity and beauty of textured hair, combining a bold undercut with flowing waves in a contemporary design. It evokes a sense of empowerment and confidence while honoring ancestral heritage through expressive hairstyling.

The Great Migration and the Redefinition of Coils Waves

A particularly illuminating historical instance demonstrating the dynamic relationship between Coils Waves and lived experience is the era of the Great Migration in the United States, spanning roughly from 1910 to 1970. During this period, millions of African Americans relocated from the rural South to urban centers in the North, Midwest, and West, seeking economic opportunities, civil liberties, and an escape from the systemic brutalities of Jim Crow laws. This massive demographic shift introduced a complex set of pressures and opportunities that profoundly influenced how Coils Waves were perceived, styled, and managed within the Black community. In the South, despite the hardships of post-slavery life, aspects of communal hair care, rooted in ancestral practices, often persisted within close-knit communities.

However, the urban environment presented a different landscape. New economic realities meant that many Black women entered the formal workforce, often in domestic service or factories, where Eurocentric standards of appearance held sway. Straight hair was frequently equated with respectability, professionalism, and a pathway to social and economic mobility, a notion tragically internalized by some as “good hair.”

The burgeoning Black beauty industry, with entrepreneurs like Madam C.J. Walker (though not inventing the hot comb, she widely popularized it) and others, responded to this demand. Products designed to straighten and “manage” Coils Waves, such as chemical relaxers (first documented around 1909 by Garrett Augustus Morgan) and hot combs, became widely accessible. These innovations, while offering convenience and a means of conforming to prevailing beauty standards, also introduced practices that sometimes damaged the hair and scalp, using harsh lye-based concoctions.

The advertisements of the era, particularly in influential Black-owned magazines like Ebony, reflect this cultural shift. While Ebony provided a crucial platform for Black models and targeted Black consumers, a significant portion of its advertising content from the 1940s through the 1960s heavily promoted hair straightening products and skin lighteners. This serves as a potent statistical reflection of the societal pressures facing Coils Waves during this period. For example, a historical review of print advertising found that by the late 1960s, while Ebony had attracted 80 of the top 100 national advertisers, a pervasive underlying message remained ❉ the majority of advertisements for Black consumers, particularly in beauty, focused on hair straighteners and skin lighteners, implicitly reinforcing a Eurocentric beauty ideal (Brownstein Group, 2012; Leslie, 2005). This complex dynamic illustrates how Coils Waves, though a biological constant, became a site of negotiation between inherited identity and external pressures.

The choice to straighten hair during the Great Migration was not solely a matter of internal preference; it often served as a pragmatic response to systemic racial bias and discrimination in employment and social settings. Black women, seeking to improve their lives and their families’ prospects, adapted their appearance to meet societal expectations that privileged straight hair. However, even within this push towards assimilation, the memory and presence of Coils Waves remained a foundational aspect of Black hair identity.

Salons, even those offering straightening services, often functioned as safe spaces where Black women could commune, share stories, and receive advice, indirectly preserving a sense of community around hair care. This underlying connection, a quiet defiance of complete erasure, paved the way for later movements.

The mid-20th century saw the beginnings of a powerful reclamation of Coils Waves. The Civil Rights Movement and the Black Power Movement of the 1960s brought a profound shift in aesthetics, championing the slogan “Black is Beautiful.” The embrace of natural hairstyles, including the Afro, became a visible political statement and a celebration of Black identity. This period marked a collective rejection of Eurocentric beauty standards and a conscious return to honoring the inherent forms of Coils Waves. The Afro, far from being a simple style, symbolized pride, resistance, and a deep reconnection to African heritage, demonstrating the enduring meaning of these natural hair patterns as a visual representation of self-determination.

  1. Follicle Morphology ❉ The fundamental determinant of Coils Waves lies in the hair follicle’s shape. Instead of a circular opening, follicles producing textured hair exhibit an oval or elliptical cross-section, with flatter ovals producing tighter coils. This anatomical distinction causes the hair strand to grow at an angle, leading to its characteristic curve.
  2. Keratin Distribution ❉ The uneven distribution of keratin, the primary protein component of hair, within the strand contributes to the inherent curl. This asymmetrical protein buildup, guided by the follicle’s shape, results in varied tension along the hair shaft, causing it to curl or coil.
  3. Disulfide Bond Arrangement ❉ Strong chemical bonds called disulfide bonds, found within the hair’s cortex, play a significant role in maintaining the hair’s structural integrity and its coiled configuration. These permanent bonds are responsible for the resilient memory of Coils Waves, resisting temporary changes from water or heat.
  4. Hydrogen Bonding & Humidity ❉ Temporary hydrogen bonds are highly susceptible to moisture, causing Coils Waves to spring back to their natural pattern when exposed to humidity or water. This explains why textured hair often “frizzes” or reverts in damp environments, a natural response to atmospheric conditions.
Captivating in monochromatic tones, the portrait celebrates natural hair artistry. The meticulous finger waves showcase a timeless aesthetic, highlighting the woman's unique beauty, while also invoking a sense of ancestral pride and the enduring elegance associated with classic Black hairstyles. This image embodies heritage and beauty.

The Sociological and Psychological Dimensions of Coils Waves

The sociological implications of Coils Waves extend into contemporary experiences, continuing to shape identity and self-perception for individuals of Black and mixed-race heritage. The historical subjugation of textured hair has left a lingering legacy, with many still internalizing biases that equate straight hair with professional acceptability or “good hair.” This perpetuates a system where individuals with Coils Waves might face discrimination in educational or professional settings. The “Crown Act” legislation in various U.S. states, prohibiting discrimination based on hair texture or style, directly addresses this ongoing challenge, affirming the right to wear Coils Waves without fear of penalty.

Psychologically, the relationship with one’s Coils Waves can be deeply personal and highly charged. For many, the journey to accepting and celebrating their natural texture involves a process of healing from internalized colonial beauty standards and reconnecting with a sense of ancestral pride. This personal affirmation can be a powerful act of self-love, reinforcing identity and resisting external pressures.

The communal aspect of hair care, historically a bond-building practice, continues today in salons and online communities where individuals share knowledge, support, and celebrate their Coils Waves. These spaces serve as modern hearths where the traditions of care and collective identity are sustained.

Aspect of Care Moisture Retention
Ancestral Practices (Pre-Colonial Africa) Regular application of natural butters (e.g. Shea, Cocoa), plant oils, and plant-based infusions to hair and scalp.
Modern Scientific Understanding (Roothea's Approach) Recognition of coiled hair's increased porosity and reduced sebum travel; emphasis on humectants, emollients, and occlusives to seal moisture, using products with balanced pH.
Aspect of Care Scalp Health
Ancestral Practices (Pre-Colonial Africa) Herbal rinses, scalp massages with specific oils, communal cleansing rituals.
Modern Scientific Understanding (Roothea's Approach) Understanding of follicle health, addressing inflammation and buildup; use of gentle cleansers, scalp treatments, and targeted ingredients for microbiome balance.
Aspect of Care Styling & Protection
Ancestral Practices (Pre-Colonial Africa) Protective styles (braids, twists, cornrows), adornments with symbolic meaning, threading for length retention.
Modern Scientific Understanding (Roothea's Approach) Emphasis on low-manipulation styles to prevent breakage, use of styling creams and gels that enhance natural curl pattern, heat protection, and gentle detangling methods.
Aspect of Care Community & Knowledge Transfer
Ancestral Practices (Pre-Colonial Africa) Intergenerational teaching, communal grooming sessions, hair as a social activity.
Modern Scientific Understanding (Roothea's Approach) Online communities, specialized salons as safe spaces, educational content sharing, advocacy for culturally relevant hair care.
Aspect of Care The enduring wisdom of ancestral practices provides a powerful foundation for contemporary care, validating traditional methods through scientific lens.
Striking portrait showcases her modern, sleek hairstyle reflecting ancestral beauty and wellness philosophies. The interplay of light and shadow emphasizes the beauty in textured hair form and sculpted waves, while dark dress, skin tones enhance visual depth and timeless elegance, celebrating identity and cultural heritage.

The Living Legacy of Coils Waves

Coils Waves, in this academic interpretation, extends beyond a static definition to encompass a dynamic, lived experience. It is a biological reality that has been politicized, celebrated, oppressed, and ultimately, reclaimed as a profound aspect of heritage. The historical forces that sought to diminish the beauty of textured hair inadvertently solidified its symbolic power as a marker of resilience and cultural continuity. Modern scientific understanding of hair biology simply offers new language to describe what ancestral wisdom already knew through observation and embodied practice.

The persistence of Coils Waves, physically and culturally, testifies to the enduring strength and adaptability of Black and mixed-race communities across the globe. It is a source of strength, a visual proclamation of lineage, and an affirmation of beauty in its myriad natural forms.

The ongoing journey of Coils Waves in contemporary society also involves conversations about sustainable and ethical hair care, revisiting traditional ingredients with modern scientific rigor. For example, the use of natural plant oils and butters, long revered in African hair rituals for their moisturizing and protective properties, finds validation in current dermatological research on lipid barriers and hair health. This intersection of ancestral knowledge and scientific inquiry allows for a deeper, more respectful approach to caring for Coils Waves, one that honors both past wisdom and present understanding.

Reflection on the Heritage of Coils Waves

To consider Coils Waves is to meditate on a lineage, a living chronicle spun from the very fibers of being. It is more than a biological phenomenon; it is a profound echo from the Source, a whisper of ancient hearths and communal gatherings where hands tended to hair with reverence and wisdom. The winding patterns of textured hair carry within them the memory of journeys, both across continents and through generations, each curve and coil a testament to resilience and an unbroken spirit. This heritage, passed down not only through genetic code but also through ritual and story, asserts that the natural state of Black and mixed-race hair is inherently magnificent, a unique expression of human diversity.

The tender thread of care, from the ancestral practices of oiling and braiding to the modern understanding of moisture and protection, forms an ongoing dialogue with these inherent forms. It is a conversation that acknowledges struggle, for the beauty of Coils Waves has sometimes been met with misunderstanding or oppression. Yet, through every challenge, this natural crowning glory has maintained its vitality, serving as a steadfast symbol of identity and cultural pride. It stands as a powerful reminder that true beauty arises from an acceptance of one’s authentic self, a deep connection to one’s roots, and the celebration of all the unique ways human life expresses itself.

The unbound helix, as a symbol, stretches into the future, carrying the weight of history and the lightness of self-acceptance. It speaks to a continuing reclamation of ancestral wisdom, marrying it with contemporary knowledge for a truly holistic approach to wellness. Coils Waves, in its fullest meaning, invites us to look beyond superficial appearances and recognize the profound, layered significance of hair—as a physical manifestation of heritage, a medium for self-expression, and a sacred connection to the vast, rich tapestry of human experience. It beckons us to honor this legacy, to care for these textures with intention, and to celebrate the inherent magnificence that springs from every strand.

References

  • Byrd, Ayana, and Lori Tharps. Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press, 2001.
  • Jacobs-Huey, Lanita. From the Kitchen to the Salon ❉ Language and Cultural Co-Construction in the African American Beauty Industry. Oxford University Press, 2006.
  • Banks, Ingrid. Hair Matters ❉ Beauty, Power, and Black Women’s Consciousness. New York University Press, 2000.
  • Rooks, Noliwe M. Hair Raising ❉ Beauty, Culture, and African American Women. Rutgers University Press, 1996.
  • Thompson, Cheryl. Beauty in a Box ❉ Detangling the Roots of Canada’s Black Beauty Culture. Wilfrid Laurier University Press, 2017.
  • Patton, Tracey Owens. African-American Women and Hair ❉ Is It More Than Hair?. McFarland, 2006.
  • Mercer, Kobena. Black Hair/StylePolitics. Institute of Contemporary Arts, 1994.
  • Byrd, Ayana D. and Lori L. Tharps. Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press, 2014.
  • Mbilishaka, Thema. PsychoHairapy ❉ The Psychology of Black Hair and Mental Health in Hair Care Settings. Palgrave Macmillan, 2018.
  • Walker, Alice. The Temple of My Familiar. Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1989.
  • hooks, bell. Black Looks ❉ Race and Representation. South End Press, 1992.

Glossary

textured hair

Meaning ❉ Textured Hair, a living legacy, embodies ancestral wisdom and resilient identity, its coiled strands whispering stories of heritage and enduring beauty.

coils waves

Cultural heritage shapes contemporary coil and wave care through ancestral knowledge, traditional practices, and hair as a powerful symbol of identity and resilience.

hair shaft

Meaning ❉ The Hair Shaft is the visible filament of keratin, holding ancestral stories, biological resilience, and profound cultural meaning, particularly for textured hair.

transatlantic slave trade

Meaning ❉ The Transatlantic Slave Trade profoundly reshaped textured hair heritage, transforming it into a symbol of identity, resistance, and enduring ancestral wisdom.

hair care

Meaning ❉ Hair Care is the holistic system of practices and cultural expressions for textured hair, deeply rooted in ancestral wisdom and diasporic resilience.

curl pattern

Meaning ❉ The curl pattern is the intrinsic shape of a hair strand, a biological trait deeply intertwined with heritage, identity, and cultural care practices.

disulfide bonds

Meaning ❉ Disulfide bonds are crucial chemical links in hair keratin, defining its natural texture and strength, with deep historical and cultural implications for textured hair.

coily hair

Meaning ❉ Coily hair, a distinct and often misunderstood hair pattern, presents as tightly wound, spring-like formations, frequently exhibiting significant shrinkage.

transatlantic slave

Textured hair served as a silent yet potent medium for resistance, concealing escape routes and sustaining cultural heritage during the transatlantic slave trade.

beauty standards

Meaning ❉ Beauty Standards are socio-cultural constructs dictating aesthetic ideals, profoundly influencing identity and experience, especially for textured hair within its rich heritage.

slave trade

Meaning ❉ The Slave Trade, a forced movement of human beings, profoundly erased identities yet spurred ingenious resistance through textured hair heritage.

ancestral practices

Meaning ❉ Ancestral Practices refers to the inherited wisdom and methodologies of textured hair care and adornment rooted in historical and cultural traditions.

black hair identity

Meaning ❉ Black Hair Identity denotes the deeply personal understanding and practical alignment with the distinct characteristics of Black and mixed-race hair.

black hair

Meaning ❉ Black Hair, within Roothea's living library, signifies a profound heritage of textured strands, deeply intertwined with ancestral wisdom, cultural identity, and enduring resilience.

university press

Meaning ❉ The Press and Curl is a heat-styling technique for textured hair, historically significant for its role in Black and mixed-race hair heritage.