Beauty Industry Hierarchy

Fundamentals

The Beauty Industry Hierarchy, at its foundational interpretation, represents the established structures of power, influence, and value that dictate standards of appearance within the vast realm of cosmetics and personal adornment. This framework organizes production, distribution, consumption, and even perception of beauty, often in ways that prioritize certain aesthetics while marginalizing others. For those of us connected to the ancestral stories of textured hair, the very notion of a beauty hierarchy carries a particular weight, for it has historically been shaped by ideals that did not always honor the coil, the kink, or the curl.

From its earliest stirrings, the beauty industry, as we understand it in its modern form, emerged from varied currents of social expectation and commercial enterprise. Within this sphere, a silent system of categorization has long assigned differing levels of prestige and market dominance to products, practices, and even hair textures themselves. This system, though seemingly abstract, has tangible consequences, influencing access to resources, shaping self-perception, and determining economic viability for countless individuals and communities.

Ancient Crowns ❉ Hair as Pedigree and Prophecy

Before the globalized industry of today, societies across the African continent understood hair not merely as a biological attribute but as a profound spiritual conduit and a living testament to one’s place within the communal fabric. In these ancient settings, hair was an eloquent communicator, signaling deep meanings about a person’s family history, social standing, spiritual connection, tribal affiliation, and even marital status. Varied tribal groups used hair to articulate social hierarchy as early as the fifteenth century. For instance, the Maasai community integrated hair shaving and re-growing into rites of passage, signifying new life stages and a renewed spiritual connection.

Among the Yoruba people of Nigeria, hair held immense significance, women often celebrating their hair as a glorious crown. Chiefs in the Benin kingdom of Edo state in Nigeria were identified by unique hairstyles that marked their leadership position. When a king passed, all men in the kingdom were expected to shave their hair as a sign of reverence. These practices reveal a complex system where the condition and styling of hair directly correlated with personal and collective well-being, where a strand held ancestral memory, and where its care was a sacred ritual.

• Adornment and Amulet ❉ Hair served as a canvas for intricate designs, often woven with charms, herbs, or sacred objects to offer protection or spiritual power.
• Social Chronicle ❉ Styles communicated age, marital status, tribal identity, wealth, and rank within the community.
• Divine Communication ❉ Hair was considered the body’s highest point, making it the closest to the divine, a belief that made hair styling a revered activity often reserved for close relatives.

The First Sundering ❉ Colonial Erasure

The arrival of colonialism brought a brutal disruption to these established systems of hair meaning and care. European colonizers, in their quest to dominate and control, intentionally targeted significant aspects of African culture, and hair became a direct casualty. Attitudes towards African hair shifted dramatically, trained and informed to despise natural textures because they differed from those of other ethnic groups. This era saw a concerted effort to dismantle indigenous beauty standards, replacing them with a Eurocentric vision that valued straight, smooth hair above all else.

The systematic devaluation of textured hair became a tool of psychological warfare. Accounts reveal instances where colonial authorities would touch African hair, describing it as “pubic hair” or “dirty,” using these derogatory remarks to justify forced shaving as a strategy to strip Africans of their identity and cultural memory. This forced erasure, often under the guise of “sanitary reasons” during the transatlantic slave trade, served a brutal purpose ❉ to break the spirit of the enslaved and strip them of their cultural markers. School policies in colonial settings, and even in post-colonial contexts, sometimes enforced harsh punishments, including forced shaving, for male students with natural, outgrown hair, framing it as “unpresentable” or “unprofessional.”

The imposition of Eurocentric beauty standards during colonialism systematically eroded the reverence for natural Black hair, profoundly altering its cultural and social standing.

This historical juncture laid the groundwork for the modern Beauty Industry Hierarchy, where proximity to Eurocentric features became a marker of perceived attractiveness and social status. This initial subjugation of textured hair forms a deep, unyielding root in understanding the contemporary challenges faced by Black and mixed-race individuals within the beauty landscape.

Intermediate

The Beauty Industry Hierarchy, once fundamentally disrupted by colonial imposition, began to re-shape itself through the crucible of societal shifts and determined innovation, particularly within Black communities. This intermediate phase reveals a complex interplay of adaptation, entrepreneurial spirit, and ongoing struggle for validation within a system still largely influenced by Eurocentric ideals. The demand for ready-made hair products for Black women surged as societal norms shifted and urbanization took hold. This era saw the emergence of figures who, against tremendous odds, carved out spaces for Black beauty, often by necessity.

Shadows of Assimilation ❉ The Straightening Imperative

Post-emancipation, the reality for Black women in America often presented a stark choice ❉ conform to prevailing beauty standards or face heightened discrimination. Straight, smooth hair was frequently viewed as “well-adjusted” by white society. This societal pressure was not simply about aesthetic preference; it reflected a deeply ingrained racial hierarchy where whiter skin tones and straighter hair were deemed more desirable. The beauty ideal in the United States, rooted in Eurocentric characteristics like pale skin, long straight hair, and thinness, inherently excluded Black women due to their melanated skin and textured hair.

The process of attaining what was considered “beautiful” hair—often defined by European or Asian texture and style—could become a journey marked by violence, both physical and cultural, perpetuating a cycle of identity erasure. Black women became vulnerable to the effects of these beauty standards, which often led to feelings of internalized self-hatred. Research consistently illustrates how racialized standards of beauty perpetuate racism by weaving assumptions of ugliness into the daily lives of those who do not conform.

The quest for conformity to Eurocentric beauty standards often resulted in Black women experiencing internal and external pressures that devalued their natural hair.

Resilience and Innovation ❉ Pioneers of Self-Care

Amidst these pressures, a powerful counter-narrative began to form, driven by Black women themselves. They recognized an unmet need within their communities for products that genuinely catered to the unique requirements of textured hair, which mainstream markets ignored or dismissed. This period saw the rise of entrepreneurial trailblazers like Annie Turnbo Malone and Madam C.J. Walker.

Annie Turnbo Malone, a chemist and entrepreneur, emerged as a significant figure before Madam C.J. Walker. She developed and sold her own line of Black hair care products, including the “Wonderful Hair Grower,” which promoted healthy hair and growth.

In 1918, Malone established Poro College, the first Black-owned cosmetology school, which offered employment, lodging, and education, thereby providing economic opportunities for thousands of Black women during the early 20th century. Her direct sales agent system became a model for future beauty enterprises.

Madam C.J. Walker, born Sarah Breedlove, built upon this legacy, revolutionizing hair care for African American women. Starting from her own experiences with hair loss and scalp issues, she formulated products designed specifically for Black hair, culminating in her “Madam Walker’s Wonderful Hair Grower.” By 1910, Walker had amassed significant influence and wealth, becoming one of America’s first self-made female millionaires.

Her business model, which included a network of “Walker Agents” who sold products door-to-door, empowered Black women economically and fostered a sense of pride and community. These innovations challenged existing beauty standards, promoting the idea that Black beauty was diverse and valuable.

These pioneers created wealth and opportunity within their communities, effectively building a parallel beauty industry that addressed needs ignored by the dominant market. Their efforts demonstrate the enduring spirit of self-determination and the deep understanding of hair care that existed within Black communities, transforming personal grooming into a vehicle for economic independence and cultural affirmation.

1. Homemade Remedies ❉ Centuries ago, Black communities relied on natural ingredients such as Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, and Aloe Vera for nourishing and styling hair.
2. Poro Preparations ❉ Annie Turnbo Malone pioneered non-damaging products, including her “Wonderful Hair Grower,” focusing on scalp health and hair growth.
3. Madam Walker’s System ❉ Madam C.J. Walker developed a comprehensive hair care system that included scalp preparations, pomades for moisture, and hot irons for styling.
4. Early Chemical Straighteners ❉ Garrett Morgan created the first chemical hair relaxer in 1913, accidentally discovering a formula while working on sewing machines.

The Textured Awakening ❉ Shifting Tides

The mid-20th century brought forth a cultural revolution that redefined beauty standards, giving rise to the Natural Hair Movement. The Black Power Movement of the 1960s and 1970s encouraged a return to natural hairstyles, rejecting Eurocentric ideals and proclaiming “Black is Beautiful.” This movement marked a conscious decision to reclaim indigenous aesthetics and to challenge the Beauty Industry Hierarchy from its very foundation. It fostered a surge in demand for products that celebrated and nourished natural curls, coils, and kinks. This period saw a shift in how Black hair was viewed, becoming a political act and a statement of pride against societal norms.

Academic

The Beauty Industry Hierarchy, from an academic vantage, can be defined as a complex, historically contingent, and socio-economically stratified system that establishes and reinforces dominant aesthetic ideals, thereby structuring the production, consumption, and valuation of beauty products and services. This system, operating at the intersection of commerce, culture, and power, frequently racializes and gender-codes beauty standards, privileging characteristics associated with normative whiteness while marginalizing or commodifying features inherent to Black, textured, and other non-white hair and skin experiences. It is a structure that mediates social interactions and impacts life trajectories, particularly for women of color, by linking perceived attractiveness to social status and opportunity.

Scholarly inquiry reveals how this hierarchy operates as a mechanism of cultural violence, perpetuating ideologies that often lead to internalized self-hatred among those who do not conform to its dictates. Sociological perspectives often examine how this hierarchy is not merely about aesthetic preference but is deeply intertwined with broader systems of racism, sexism, and class stratification. The commodification of beauty, as presented within this hierarchy, holds beauty as a symbol of status and worth, where participation in beauty practices socializes individuals to embody femininity as an object under external scrutiny.

Structural Underpinnings ❉ Decoding the Hierarchy

The academic lens permits a closer examination of how the Beauty Industry Hierarchy is constructed and maintained. It functions through a process of racialization, where external physical attributes, such as hair texture and skin color, become imbued with specific social values and meanings. The prevailing global beauty ideal has historically defined itself through Eurocentric characteristics ❉ pale skin, long, straight hair, and thinness. This standard has inherently excluded Black women and other women of color due to their melanated skin and textured hair.

Within this framework, media and advertising play a significant role in reinforcing these dominant aesthetics, creating a visual lexicon that implicitly or explicitly promotes white desirability. The exclusion of racialized women from spaces intended to empower all women reproduces societal hierarchies within the beauty industry itself. This institutionalized preference for certain phenotypes extends beyond media representation, affecting various social spheres, including employment, academic achievement, and social acceptance.

• Historical Lineage ❉ The hierarchy traces its roots to colonial eras and the transatlantic slave trade, periods that actively sought to devalue and suppress African aesthetics and hair traditions.
• Economic Power ❉ Dominant corporations, historically and presently, often control the majority of research, development, and marketing budgets, thereby shaping trends and product availability. This power disparity reinforces existing beauty norms.
• Social Control ❉ Beauty standards, enforced by the hierarchy, serve as tools of social control, influencing behavior, self-perception, and opportunities, particularly for marginalized groups.

The Economics of Erasure ❉ Ownership and Influence

A particularly stark revelation within the Beauty Industry Hierarchy concerns the ownership and control of its financial streams, especially those segments purportedly serving Black consumers. The historical narrative of the Black hair industry is one of innovation born of necessity, yet also one of significant struggle for economic self-determination. Early Black entrepreneurs like Madam C.J.

Walker and Annie Turnbo Malone built empires by catering to the specific needs of Black women, creating products and distribution networks that were revolutionary for their time. Their business models provided economic opportunities for thousands of Black women who became sales agents, a powerful statement of empowerment in an era of limited prospects.

Despite these powerful foundations, the economic reality today presents a challenging paradox. The Black hair industry, while valued at a substantial sum, continues to see a disproportionate lack of Black ownership. According to a 2020 report, the black hair industry is valued conservatively at around $2.5 Billion, with Black Entrepreneurs Only Accounting for 3% of Total Ownership of Products Marketed to Us. This statistic underscores a persistent structural imbalance within the Beauty Industry Hierarchy, where profits generated from Black consumers often do not circulate back into Black communities or empower Black-owned businesses at a significant scale.

This disparity reflects a broader pattern wherein mainstream corporations, often with Eurocentric leadership and marketing strategies, have acquired or developed products for textured hair, sometimes without fully understanding or respecting the cultural context and historical significance of these hair types. This commercial appropriation, while sometimes leading to wider product availability, can also dilute cultural meaning and further marginalize the voices of those who originated the traditions. The demise of Black-owned distributors in the UK, such as Dyke & Dryden in the 1990s, led to the perception that the Black hair industry ceded control to other communities, highlighting a historical pattern of ownership shifts.

The vast economic value of the Black hair industry stands in stark contrast to the minimal ownership by Black entrepreneurs, revealing a profound structural imbalance within the Beauty Industry Hierarchy.

Reclaiming the Crown ❉ Hair as Political Statement

The natural hair movement, particularly since the 1960s Civil Rights era and its resurgence in recent decades, stands as a powerful act of resistance against the Beauty Industry Hierarchy’s ingrained biases. This movement is not merely a stylistic choice; it is a profound declaration of identity, a reclamation of heritage, and a rejection of beauty standards that historically demanded assimilation. Embracing natural hair challenges the valuation system that reinforces how race and gender are perceived on the body. It encourages the creation of new approaches to beauty that are inclusive and authentic.

To wear natural Black hair remains a political act, especially in environments where such hair is deemed socially or professionally unacceptable. The movement asserts that Black hair, in its myriad textures and forms, is inherently beautiful and worthy of celebration, pushing against the normative perceptions of Eurocentric beauty and demanding the inclusion of the Black body in beauty’s broadest definition. This shift requires not only personal commitment but also systemic change, as evidenced by legislative efforts like the CROWN Act, which prohibits race-based hair discrimination.

The conversation now centers on moving beyond mere acceptance to true appreciation and respect for textured hair, acknowledging its deep cultural and ancestral roots. It demands that the Beauty Industry Hierarchy not simply adapt to market trends but fundamentally re-evaluate its historical biases and structural inequalities, making space for genuine equity and cultural reverence. This ongoing process seeks to dismantle the hierarchy’s exclusionary elements, allowing all hair textures to be seen, valued, and celebrated without prejudice.

The evolution of the Beauty Industry Hierarchy, particularly as it relates to textured hair, reveals a continuum of struggle and triumph. From ancient African societies where hair was a revered symbol of identity and status, through the brutal erasures of colonialism and slavery, to the entrepreneurial resistance of figures like Madam C.J. Walker, and ultimately to the modern natural hair movement, each phase reflects a continuous re-negotiation of what is deemed beautiful and worthy. The ongoing discourse surrounding Black hair ownership, representation, and acceptance underscores that this hierarchy is not static; it is a living, evolving entity, continuously shaped by cultural forces, economic realities, and the persistent human spirit yearning for authentic expression.

Reflection on the Heritage of Beauty Industry Hierarchy

As we draw this contemplation to a close, a sense of deep gratitude rises for the profound story our hair carries—a living archive of resilience, wisdom, and ancestral memory. The journey through the Beauty Industry Hierarchy, particularly for textured hair, is far from a detached academic exercise. It mirrors the very journey of self-discovery and collective reclamation that so many of us experience when connecting with our strands. Each coil and kink whispers tales of ingenuity, of survival against overwhelming odds, and of an unbreakable spirit.

The echoes from the source, those ancient rhythms of care and reverence for hair as a spiritual and social testament, remind us of a time when beauty was not dictated by external forces but sprang organically from community and connection. The tender thread of shared practices, passed down through generations, became a lifeline for identity when systemic forces sought to sever those ties. And now, the unbound helix, a symbol of our collective striving, speaks to a future where every texture is not just tolerated, but celebrated as a magnificent expression of unique heritage.

Our hair, truly, remains a profound meditation on heritage and care. It teaches us that understanding its history within the industry is not about dwelling on past injustices alone. It is about honoring the ingenuity of those who created spaces of affirmation where none existed, recognizing the silent power of a hair strand that embodies cultural narratives, and charting a course towards a future where the industry genuinely serves, rather than dictates, the diverse spectrum of human beauty. The story of textured hair within this hierarchy is a continuous saga of self-love, an affirmation that the most profound beauty arises when we honor our deepest roots.

Our hair, in its magnificent diversity, stands as a living testament to an unbroken ancestral lineage, continuously weaving tales of resilience and self-affirmation within the complex structures of the Beauty Industry Hierarchy.