
Fundamentals
The concept of Afro Sheen Advertising, at its core, represents a significant historical moment within the landscape of textured hair heritage. It is not merely about the promotion of hair products; it encompasses a powerful cultural declaration, a visual language that articulated Black identity and beauty during a transformative era. Afro Sheen, launched by Johnson Products Company in 1954, truly found its voice and prominence in the 1960s and 1970s, aligning itself with the burgeoning Black Power and “Black is Beautiful” movements. This advertising served as a mirror, reflecting and amplifying a collective shift in self-perception among Black and mixed-race individuals.
Understanding Afro Sheen Advertising requires acknowledging its dual nature ❉ a commercial endeavor and a cultural phenomenon. Its campaigns presented images of Black individuals embracing their natural hair textures—afros, curls, and coils—as symbols of pride and self-acceptance. This was a stark departure from earlier beauty standards, which often promoted Eurocentric ideals and hair straightening as a means of social mobility or acceptance. The meaning, therefore, extends beyond simple product marketing; it became a statement about racial identity, dignity, and a reclamation of ancestral aesthetics.

Early Expressions and Visual Narratives
In its foundational years, Afro Sheen advertising sought to explain and normalize the beauty of natural hair. Before this period, advertisements often depicted Black hair as a problem to be remedied, frequently promoting chemical straighteners. Afro Sheen offered an alternative, providing products designed to enhance the inherent qualities of textured hair, such as conditioners, softeners, and shine sprays. The visual narratives employed in these early advertisements were groundbreaking, featuring Black men, women, and children with voluminous afros, often in everyday settings, projecting confidence and joy.
Afro Sheen Advertising was a cultural declaration, visually articulating Black identity and beauty during a transformative era.
The significance of this advertising lies in its direct address to the Black consumer, recognizing their unique hair care needs and, more profoundly, affirming their inherent beauty. These advertisements were not just selling a product; they were selling a vision of self-acceptance and cultural affirmation, resonating deeply within communities seeking to redefine beauty on their own terms.
- Authenticity ❉ The campaigns presented authentic images of Black individuals, a notable shift from prior marketing trends.
- Empowerment ❉ They empowered individuals to wear their natural hair with pride, rejecting external beauty dictates.
- Visibility ❉ Afro Sheen advertisements increased the visibility of diverse textured hair in mainstream media, albeit within specific Black-focused publications and programs.

Intermediate
The intermediate understanding of Afro Sheen Advertising reveals its profound role as a catalyst for cultural redefinition, particularly within the context of textured hair heritage. This advertising was not merely transactional; it operated as a medium through which the “Black is Beautiful” ethos found widespread commercial expression. George E. Johnson Sr.
the founder of Johnson Products Company, launched Afro Sheen in 1954, and by the 1960s and 1970s, the brand’s advertisements became synonymous with the natural hair movement. This historical moment marked a deliberate turning away from Eurocentric beauty standards that had long dominated perceptions of Black hair.
Historically, Black women, and indeed many Black individuals, faced societal pressures to straighten their hair, a practice often linked to perceptions of respectability and social acceptance. Advertisements prior to the natural hair movement frequently portrayed straightened hair as the ideal, sometimes even implying that physical changes to appearance were linked to upward mobility. Afro Sheen Advertising, however, presented a powerful counter-narrative.
It showcased diverse textured hair—from tight coils to soft waves—as inherently beautiful, a celebration of ancestral lineage rather than a deviation from it. The delineation of its meaning moves beyond a simple product definition to encompass its contribution to a broader cultural awakening.

The Soul of a Strand ❉ Heritage and Identity in Advertising
The essence of Afro Sheen’s advertising campaigns lay in their ability to connect product use with a deeper sense of heritage and identity. These advertisements were often seen in publications like Ebony and Jet magazines, which were central to Black consumer culture, and notably on programs like Soul Train, which George Johnson helped to create to ensure direct access to Black consumers. This strategic placement ensured that the messages reached their intended audience, reinforcing a sense of community and shared cultural pride.
Afro Sheen Advertising served as a powerful medium, translating the “Black is Beautiful” ethos into a tangible, commercial celebration of textured hair heritage.
Consider the shift in imagery ❉ instead of models with chemically straightened hair, Afro Sheen featured individuals with prominent afros, often accompanied by empowering slogans. These slogans, sometimes delivered with a serene and majestic narration, spoke to the idea of Black hair as a “beautiful crown” and a “natural expression of pride.” This direct affirmation of natural hair had a profound psychological impact, countering generations of negative societal conditioning. The advertising’s intention was clear ❉ to redefine beauty from within the Black community, rather than seeking external validation.
A significant historical example that powerfully illuminates Afro Sheen Advertising’s connection to textured hair heritage is its alignment with the “Black is Beautiful” movement of the 1960s and 1970s. During this period, the Afro hairstyle became a potent symbol of racial pride and activism, a deliberate rejection of Eurocentric beauty standards. A 1969 Newsweek poll, for instance, revealed that 70% of northern African Americans under the age of thirty approved of the natural style, and even 40% of all southern African Americans.
Afro Sheen capitalized on, and indeed contributed to, this widespread cultural shift by offering products specifically designed to care for and style unstraightened hair, thereby making the adoption of natural styles more accessible and desirable. The advertising campaigns, through their imagery and messaging, visually cemented the Afro’s place as a symbol of liberation and self-acceptance, transforming a political statement into a commercially embraced aesthetic.
The company’s advertisements depicted Black professionals—doctors, lawyers, flight attendants—with afros, directly challenging prevailing stereotypes and presenting aspirational images that were rooted in Black excellence. This was a deliberate act of representation, showcasing the beauty and versatility of textured hair within contexts of success and dignity. The advertisements, therefore, were not just selling a product; they were selling a narrative of self-worth and cultural celebration.
| Aspect Dominant Hair Ideal |
| Pre-Afro Sheen Advertising (Pre-1960s) Chemically straightened, sleek, Eurocentric styles. |
| Afro Sheen Advertising (1960s-1970s) Natural Afro, curls, coils, and textured styles. |
| Aspect Associated Social Meaning |
| Pre-Afro Sheen Advertising (Pre-1960s) Respectability, social mobility, assimilation. |
| Afro Sheen Advertising (1960s-1970s) Racial pride, self-acceptance, cultural identity. |
| Aspect Product Focus |
| Pre-Afro Sheen Advertising (Pre-1960s) Relaxers, pressing oils, straightening creams. |
| Afro Sheen Advertising (1960s-1970s) Conditioners, softeners, shine sprays for natural hair. |
| Aspect Imagery |
| Pre-Afro Sheen Advertising (Pre-1960s) Models with smooth, often lightened hair. |
| Afro Sheen Advertising (1960s-1970s) Diverse Black models with voluminous, natural hair. |
| Aspect Message |
| Pre-Afro Sheen Advertising (Pre-1960s) Hair as a problem to be corrected. |
| Afro Sheen Advertising (1960s-1970s) Hair as a beautiful, inherent expression of self. |
| Aspect The shift in advertising reflected a profound cultural re-evaluation, moving from conformity to celebration of Black hair's unique heritage. |
This period of advertising played a critical role in normalizing natural hair textures and promoting a sense of collective beauty within the Black community. It fostered a visual dialogue that honored the diverse manifestations of textured hair, from its elemental biology to its living traditions of care.

Academic
Afro Sheen Advertising, within the scholarly discourse, represents a seminal instance of counter-hegemonic marketing that directly intersected with and amplified the “Black is Beautiful” movement, thereby significantly influencing the semiotics of Black and mixed-race hair experiences. Its definition transcends a mere commercial campaign; it is an articulation of cultural resistance, a visual and rhetorical mechanism that redefined beauty standards and asserted racial identity in mid-20th century America. Founded by George E.
Johnson Sr. in 1954, Johnson Products Company, through its Afro Sheen line, became a prominent voice in the cultural revolution of the 1960s and 1970s, challenging deeply entrenched Eurocentric beauty ideals that had historically marginalized textured hair.
The meaning of Afro Sheen Advertising is thus inextricably linked to the socio-political climate of the Civil Rights and Black Power movements. Prior to this era, dominant beauty narratives, often propagated through advertising, positioned straightened hair as a prerequisite for social acceptance and economic advancement within both Black and broader American society. Scholars like Noliwe Rooks have illuminated how early 20th-century advertisements for Black hair and skin products often “suggested to Blacks that only through changing physical features will persons of African descent be afforded class mobility within African American communities and social acceptance by the dominant culture.” Afro Sheen’s emergence, therefore, constituted a radical departure, offering an alternative vision where natural hair was not merely tolerated but celebrated as a symbol of pride and authenticity. This explication demands an understanding of its deliberate strategy to subvert prevailing norms.

The Semiotics of Strands ❉ Decoding Afro Sheen’s Visual Language
The delineation of Afro Sheen Advertising’s impact requires a deep analysis of its visual and linguistic components. The advertisements consciously moved away from imagery that promoted chemical alteration of hair texture, instead featuring models—men, women, and children—with voluminous, well-groomed afros and other natural styles. This was a deliberate choice to align the brand with a burgeoning sense of Black consciousness. The language employed in these campaigns was equally transformative, often utilizing evocative phrases that spoke to racial pride and self-affirmation.
Consider the recurring motifs in Afro Sheen commercials from the 1970s, which often described Black hair as a “beautiful crown” and a “natural expression of pride,” accompanied by serene and majestic narration. This was not simply descriptive; it was prescriptive, guiding a community towards a re-evaluation of their inherent beauty.
One particularly insightful case study that underscores the profound connection between Afro Sheen Advertising and Black hair experiences is the work of Tiffany M. Gill in her book, Beauty Shop Politics ❉ African American Women’s Activism in the Beauty Industry (2010). Gill demonstrates how Black beauty salons and the products they sold, including those from companies like Johnson Products, were not just sites of commerce but also crucial spaces for political organizing and the dissemination of information during the Jim Crow era. Black beauticians, often economically autonomous, leveraged their intimate connections with clients to become “key political mobilizers,” transforming seemingly mundane acts of hair care into expressions of dignity and resistance.
Afro Sheen’s advertising, by promoting natural styles, directly supported this underlying activism. It provided the visual lexicon and product accessibility that allowed individuals to outwardly express the burgeoning internal shifts in identity that were being fostered within these community spaces. The advertisements, therefore, did not merely reflect a trend; they actively contributed to its materialization and normalization within daily life, extending the political consciousness of the beauty salon into the homes and public appearances of millions.
The advertisements often appeared in influential Black-owned publications such as Ebony and Jet magazines, which were instrumental in shaping Black consumer culture and identity. Furthermore, George Johnson, recognizing the need for direct access to Black audiences, was instrumental in the creation of Soul Train in 1971, ensuring that Afro Sheen commercials reached Black consumers directly through a culturally resonant platform. This integrated marketing approach solidified Afro Sheen’s status as a cultural touchstone.
The portrayal of Black individuals in aspirational roles—doctors, lawyers, flight attendants, and even figure skaters—all sporting afros, served to dismantle stereotypical representations and project images of Black excellence and versatility. This particular aspect of their advertising had a significant impact on self-perception, countering the long-standing psychological effects of Eurocentric beauty standards which often led to feelings of inferiority among Black women regarding their natural hair.
- Challenging Norms ❉ Afro Sheen advertising directly challenged the prevailing notion that straight hair was the sole standard of beauty, a deeply ingrained idea that had historical roots in racial classification and discrimination.
- Economic Empowerment ❉ The success of Johnson Products Company, a Black-owned enterprise, and its advertising, also symbolized economic self-sufficiency and the power of Black consumerism during an era when Black businesses faced systemic barriers.
- Psychological Liberation ❉ By celebrating natural hair, the advertisements contributed to a psychological liberation, fostering a sense of self-worth and pride in ancestral features that had long been devalued.
The impact of these advertisements extended beyond individual self-esteem, influencing collective identity. Research by Eletra S. Gilchrist suggests that media portrayals of beauty shape how African American women perceive their own hair in comparison to other images of Black hair, and culturally, these images “tend to define what constitutes beautiful Black hair.” Afro Sheen’s campaigns, therefore, played a critical role in reshaping these definitions in a positive, Afrocentric direction.
The phenomenon of Afro Sheen Advertising provides a compelling illustration of how commercial endeavors can become deeply embedded in cultural movements, serving as both reflections and drivers of social change. Its enduring significance lies in its capacity to shift perceptions, affirm identity, and contribute to the rich heritage of textured hair as a symbol of Black pride and resilience.

Reflection on the Heritage of Afro Sheen Advertising
The journey through the meaning and significance of Afro Sheen Advertising reveals a profound meditation on textured hair, its heritage, and its care. It is more than a historical footnote in marketing; it stands as a living testament to the resilience of Black and mixed-race communities, a vibrant echo from the source of ancestral wisdom. The narratives woven into Afro Sheen’s campaigns spoke directly to the soul of a strand, acknowledging the elemental biology of coils and curls while celebrating the living traditions of care that have been passed down through generations. The advertisements, with their bold imagery and affirming messages, helped to mend a tender thread of self-perception that had been frayed by centuries of imposed beauty standards.
As we reflect upon this unique period, it becomes clear that Afro Sheen Advertising was an unbound helix, allowing Black identity to twist and turn, to express itself freely and without apology. It offered a visual and emotional space for individuals to see their own beauty reflected, not as an anomaly, but as a magnificent, inherent truth. This was a reclamation, a profound act of self-love that transcended the commercial transaction. The advertisements were not just selling products; they were selling a legacy, inviting every person with textured hair to connect with their ancestral story, to find strength and joy in the very fibers of their being.
Afro Sheen Advertising stands as a living testament to the resilience of Black and mixed-race communities, a vibrant echo from the source of ancestral wisdom.
The enduring impact of Afro Sheen Advertising is evident in the continued celebration of natural hair today. While the specific styles and products have evolved, the underlying message of self-acceptance and cultural pride, so powerfully articulated by Afro Sheen, remains a guiding light. It reminds us that true beauty flows from within, from an authentic connection to one’s heritage, and from the unwavering confidence to present oneself to the world, beautifully, uniquely, and without compromise. The legacy of Afro Sheen is not just in the products it sold, but in the profound shift in consciousness it helped to inspire, a shift that continues to resonate through every curl, coil, and wave.

References
- Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. L. (2014). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- Gill, T. M. (2010). Beauty Shop Politics ❉ African American Women’s Activism in the Beauty Industry. University of Illinois Press.
- Walker, S. (2007). Style and Status ❉ Selling Beauty to African American Women, 1920-1975. University Press of Kentucky.
- Rooks, N. (1996). Hair Raising ❉ Beauty, Culture, and African American Women. Rutgers University Press.
- Thompson, C. (2019). Beauty in a Box ❉ Detangling the Roots of Canada’s Black Beauty Culture. Wilfrid Laurier University Press.
- Gilchrist, E. S. (2014). Media Effects and Black Hair Politics. The University of Alabama in Huntsville.
- Patton, T. O. (2006). Afro-centric and Euro-centric Ideals of Beauty ❉ A Comparative Content Analysis of Advertisements in Essence Magazine. University of Arkansas.
- Weems Jr. R. E. (1998). The Merchant Prince of Black Chicago ❉ Anthony Overton and the Building of a Financial Empire. University of Missouri Press.
- Dabiri, E. (2019). Twisted ❉ The Tangled History of Black Hair Culture. Harper Perennial.