
Fundamentals
The African American Migration, sometimes known as the Great Migration, represents one of history’s truly profound human movements. It was a sprawling demographic shift spanning roughly from 1910 to 1970, during which millions of African Americans departed the often oppressive confines of the rural Southern states. Their destination ❉ the industrial metropolises of the North, Midwest, and West, where the hope for broader freedoms and economic prospects beckoned. This mass relocation, while driven by socio-economic pressures and the enduring blight of Jim Crow segregation, also carried within its very currents a deep cultural relocation, impacting every facet of Black existence, including the cherished traditions of hair care and self-presentation.
To grasp this journey’s basic meaning, we must consider the ancestral echoes that accompanied each step. Many of those who journeyed north carried with them inherited knowledge, skills, and the memory of practices passed down through generations. The shift from agrarian landscapes to bustling urban centers presented new demands and opportunities for hair.
For generations, hair care in the South had been intimately tied to natural resources, communal gatherings, and styles reflective of rural life. The new urban environments brought different challenges—industrial pollutants, diverse social interactions, and emerging beauty standards often influenced by broader societal currents.
The pursuit of economic betterment was a primary driver for these migratory patterns. In the Jim Crow South, deeply entrenched systems like sharecropping and discriminatory labor practices severely limited upward mobility. A factory wage in the urban North, around 1916 when the Great Migration began, was typically three times more than what Black people could expect to earn working the land in the rural South.
This stark contrast served as a powerful magnet, drawing families towards distant cities with the promise of a better life. This move was not simply a change of address; it was a profound reorientation of existence, affecting how one earned a living, how one socialized, and indeed, how one tended to one’s very crown of hair.
The meaning of the African American Migration, in this fundamental sense, is a collective aspiration for human dignity and self-determination. It was a courageous act of claiming agency in the face of systemic injustice, where the mundane yet deeply personal act of hair care became an unexpected point of cultural adaptation and innovation. New cityscapes meant new social landscapes, and with them, the genesis of new beauty expressions that honored the past while looking toward an emerging future.
The African American Migration signified a deep quest for self-determination, prompting a re-evaluation of inherited practices, especially in the realm of hair care, within evolving urban landscapes.

Early Hair Adornments and Adaptations
In their Southern homelands, the Black community often engaged in communal hair practices, where styling was a shared experience, strengthening social bonds and transmitting ancestral wisdom. Braiding techniques, rooted in various African societies, served as visual markers of social status, age, marital status, or even tribal affiliation. The act of hair grooming was a significant part of community life, where dense, thick, clean, and neatly groomed hair was highly admired.
As families relocated, the informal networks of communal grooming faced transformations. While the spirit of shared care persisted, the practicalities of urban life introduced new considerations.
For instance, the types of ingredients available for hair care also began to shift. In rural settings, natural emollients like plant oils and butters, often derived from local flora, were common. In the cities, commercial products became more accessible, though not always specifically formulated for textured hair. This availability sparked both opportunity and challenge, as individuals sought to adapt their traditional methods to modern convenience, sometimes with varying results on hair health.
- Palm Oil ❉ A revered ancestral ingredient for moisturizing and sealing hair, its availability and use saw shifts as migrants moved further from traditional agricultural systems.
- Shea Butter ❉ A rich emollient, often carried in memory and practice, though sourcing it in new urban environments required different channels than those in rural communities.
- Herbal Infusions ❉ Traditional washes and rinses, often prepared from local herbs, were slowly augmented or replaced by nascent commercial preparations designed for cleansing.
The definition of beauty itself underwent a subtle but significant evolution. While deep respect for natural textured hair endured, the prevailing Eurocentric beauty standards of the era also presented challenges. Some individuals explored ways to straighten or relax their tresses, seeking to conform to societal norms for acceptance and opportunity. This exploration, however, was not solely about assimilation; it was also a complex navigation of personal expression within a new social sphere, often driven by the desire to secure employment in a racially discriminatory environment.

Intermediate
The African American Migration, at an intermediate level of understanding, is not merely a demographic shift but a powerful socio-cultural reorientation that recalibrated identity and agency within Black communities. It reflects a determined movement away from a South characterized by racial terror and economic subjugation toward the promise—however imperfect—of greater autonomy in urban centers. This re-shaping of lives had a particularly potent influence on expressions of Black womanhood, especially concerning textured hair. The collective aspiration for dignity and opportunity meant that women migrating from the South often encountered new social dynamics and cultural currents in the North, leading to profound transformations in their daily lives, including how they styled and cared for their hair.
Within this migration, hair became a site of both personal and communal redefinition. As individuals navigated crowded cityscapes, new types of work, and varied social interactions, the methods and meanings of hair care evolved. The transition from agrarian life to urban living introduced different environmental factors that impacted hair health, from varying humidity levels to pollutants in the air.
Beyond the physical, the psychological terrain shifted as well. Living in concentrated Black urban communities allowed for collective strength and new forms of expression, while still confronting societal pressures to conform.
This period saw the burgeoning of Black-owned businesses, particularly within the beauty sector. Shut out from mainstream industries and services, Black women created their own economic ecosystems, transforming the necessity of hair care into a powerful vehicle for independence. These beauty enterprises did not just offer products and services; they represented communal havens, places where Black women could connect, share experiences, and collectively navigate the challenges of urban life. The hair salon, for instance, became more than a place for grooming; it served as a social anchor, a gathering place for the exchange of news, and sometimes, a discreet organizing space for social change.
The African American Migration spurred the creation of a vibrant Black beauty industry, transforming hair care into a powerful tool for economic independence and community building.

Hair as a Symbol of Adaption and Aspirations
During the migration, the understanding of hair, and its presentation, held deep symbolic weight. For many, adopting straighter hairstyles was seen as a way to assimilate into broader society and gain access to opportunities previously denied. Newspapers and advertisements during the early 20th century, particularly within the burgeoning Black press, often promoted beauty ideals that leaned towards lighter skin and straightened hair.
Yet, this was also a period of profound experimentation and self-definition. Black women, armed with newfound economic agency, began to define their own standards of beauty, moving beyond the constraints of externally imposed ideals.
Consider the shift in available services. In the South, hair care often involved informal practices and communal efforts. Moving to cities meant access to formal beauty shops and trained beauticians. This formalization of beauty services, while sometimes driven by the desire for certain looks, also represented a significant economic advancement for Black women.
They could now enter a profession that allowed for financial stability outside of domestic labor, which had long been one of the most common, and often exploitative, forms of employment. The beauty industry provided a route for upward mobility and a sense of entrepreneurial pride.
The cultural meaning of textured hair itself continued to evolve. While some images in early 20th-century media might have associated traditional African hair styles, such as braids and cornrows, with a poorer, rural image, the migration also laid groundwork for future movements that would reclaim and celebrate these very styles. The tensions and dialogues around hair presentation during this period highlight the complex interplay of cultural heritage, economic aspiration, and evolving identity. The products and techniques employed were not just about aesthetics; they were about navigating a new world and striving for a better existence.
The profound desire for self-improvement and community advancement permeated every aspect of life for those embarking on this historical movement. It meant that even in seemingly individual choices, like the styling of one’s hair, a collective determination to define and present Black modernity was at play. This search for an authentic urban Black identity deeply influenced the burgeoning hair care market, shaping both demand and supply for products and services tailored to textured hair.

Academic
The African American Migration, in academic discourse, represents a monumental socio-economic and cultural phenomenon, a mass internal relocation of approximately six million Black Southerners between 1910 and 1970. This transformative period was catalyzed by systemic racial oppression in the Jim Crow South, including economic disenfranchisement and violence, alongside the allure of industrial opportunities in Northern and Western urban centers. Beyond a mere demographic re-distribution, the Migration was a profound, multi-layered reconfiguration of Black life, profoundly reshaping communal structures, political agency, and, significantly for our contemplation, the very aesthetics and practices surrounding textured hair. This complex process reflects a collective endeavor to establish a new foundation for Black modernity and self-determination in a perpetually challenging social landscape.
To dissect its academic meaning, one must recognize the interwoven systems of power and resistance that defined the era. The Jim Crow South was not merely discriminatory; it was a rigidly enforced racial caste system that denied Black people basic human rights, economic parity, and social dignity. The boll weevil infestation in the 1890s and early 1900s, devastating agricultural yields, further exacerbated economic hardship for Black sharecroppers.
Simultaneously, World War I created a labor vacuum in Northern industries, as European immigration ceased, leading recruiters to actively seek Black workers from the South. This confluence of push-and-pull factors ignited a movement that became a powerful act of collective human agency, a search for an unbound future.
The repercussions of this mass relocation extended deeply into the cultural sphere, particularly impacting the development of Black beauty culture. As Black individuals established new lives in urban environments, they confronted new forms of social interaction, altered environmental conditions, and evolving beauty standards. These urban centers, though not free from racial prejudice, offered a different social fabric, one where new avenues for entrepreneurship and self-expression could materialize. It is within this dynamic context that the Black beauty industry, especially focused on hair care, ascended to become a significant force, representing both economic opportunity and a site for the continuous re-imagining of Black identity.
Academically, the African American Migration signifies a monumental shift in Black self-determination, manifest in the emergence of a powerful beauty industry that redefined textured hair care and fostered economic autonomy.

The Ascendance of the Black Beauty Industry ❉ Madam C. J. Walker as a Case Study
The African American Migration directly fueled the establishment and expansion of an indigenous Black beauty industry, a testament to ingenuity in the face of racial exclusion. Barred from accessing many mainstream services and products, Black women created their own solutions, transforming self-care into a collective economic and cultural enterprise. This industry not only catered to the specific needs of textured hair but also provided a vital source of income and social mobility for countless Black women.
A powerful instance of this dynamic is observed in the story of Madam C. J. Walker. Born Sarah Breedlove in Delta, Louisiana, in 1867, to formerly enslaved parents, she epitomizes the very spirit of the Migration’s transformative potential.
Orphaned at seven and widowed at twenty, she labored for decades as a washerwoman, earning a meager $1.50 a week. Her personal experience with hair loss and scalp conditions, coupled with her observation of similar issues within her community, propelled her to develop specialized hair care formulas for Black women. By 1910, her Madam C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company, headquartered in Indianapolis, had grown into a formidable enterprise.
Madam Walker’s innovative business model, which employed and trained thousands of Black women as “beauty culturists” across the country, offers a compelling example of economic empowerment. These women sold her products door-to-door, offering hair treatments and instruction, effectively creating a decentralized sales force. This provided unprecedented job opportunities for Black women, presenting an alternative to the prevailing domestic service roles. In cities like Houston between World Wars I and II, approximately 40 percent of all Black workers were women, primarily engaged in domestic labor, highlighting the profound impact of industries like Walker’s in diversifying employment options.
The beauty salon, often established by these newly trained beauticians, became more than a commercial space. It evolved into a critical site of social congregation and political activism within Black urban communities. Scholar Tiffany Gill notes that beauty shops served as “private meeting spaces” for Black women, facilitating community organizing and the exchange of ideas beyond the public eye. These salons became informal hubs for information dissemination, mutual aid, and even political discourse, strengthening communal bonds in a new urban context.
The debate surrounding hair straightening practices during this era also warrants academic scrutiny. While some interpretations suggest an assimilationist impulse, seeking to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards, a more nuanced understanding acknowledges the complex agency at play. For many Black women, altering their hair was also about achieving a sense of “modernity” and respectability within urban environments, where appearances could impact job prospects and social acceptance.
The availability of new products and techniques offered choice and a means of personal expression, even as broader societal pressures loomed. The quest for “respectability” was often intertwined with pragmatic aspirations for upward mobility in a discriminatory society.
| Traditional Southern Practices Communal braiding and natural styling, often tied to social gatherings and ancestral wisdom. |
| Urban Adaptations and Innovations Increased reliance on commercial hair care products and professional salon services. |
| Traditional Southern Practices Use of natural ingredients ❉ plant oils, animal fats (e.g. lard, goose grease). |
| Urban Adaptations and Innovations Development and widespread adoption of specialized formulas for textured hair, often involving chemical straightening agents. |
| Traditional Southern Practices Hair care as an informal, domestic practice, primarily within the home. |
| Urban Adaptations and Innovations Emergence of formal beauty schools and a paid profession for Black women as beauticians. |
| Traditional Southern Practices Limited access to diverse styling tools and techniques. |
| Urban Adaptations and Innovations Introduction of hot combs, pressing irons, and new styling methods, shaping a distinct urban aesthetic. |
| Traditional Southern Practices The transition from rural traditions to urban innovations represents a continuous human adaptation, where ancestral knowledge met new circumstances, shaping the journey of Black hair. |

Interconnected Incidence ❉ The Black Press and Beauty Ideals
The reciprocal relationship between the African American Migration, the burgeoning Black beauty industry, and the influence of the Black press stands as a compelling interconnected incidence demanding academic exploration. As millions moved North, Black newspapers became vital conduits of information, community cohesion, and cultural discourse in their new urban settings. These periodicals, from the Chicago Defender to The New York Age, not only guided migrants to new opportunities but also became powerful platforms for shaping emerging Black identity, including beauty ideals. The New York Age, for instance, in 1916, actively encouraged Black patronage of Black-owned businesses, including those in the beauty sector, emphasizing the potential for leadership roles for African Americans within these enterprises.
Advertising within these publications frequently showcased hair and skin care products, often promoting concepts of “modernity” and “respectability.” While these advertisements sometimes reflected a prevailing societal bias towards lighter skin and straighter hair, they also empowered Black entrepreneurs to directly address the specific needs and aspirations of their community, a segment largely ignored or exploited by mainstream white manufacturers. The circulation of these newspapers across the emerging Black urban landscape disseminated beauty trends, entrepreneurial successes, and a collective vision of Black advancement.
This dynamic created a feedback loop ❉ the migration created a concentrated urban Black consumer market, which in turn spurred the growth of the Black beauty industry. The Black press, a crucial communication channel, amplified the industry’s reach and helped solidify certain beauty standards, which were then challenged and redefined by grassroots activism and evolving cultural expressions. The very pages of these papers became a battleground for the meaning of Black beauty, where women debated ingredients, practices, and the political implications of their choices.
One powerful example is the “buyer beware” warnings that appeared in Black newspapers around 1900, alerting readers to unscrupulous practices of cosmetic companies and advocating for safe, Black-made products, highlighting a proactive community self-protection. This demonstrates a deep-seated desire for healthy, culturally relevant beauty practices, rather than passive acceptance of harmful alternatives.
The long-term consequence of this period for textured hair heritage cannot be overstated. The infrastructure established by pioneers like Madam C. J. Walker and others laid the groundwork for future generations of Black beauty entrepreneurs.
It normalized the idea that Black women’s beauty needs were unique and worthy of dedicated businesses, fostering a legacy of self-sufficiency. Furthermore, the debates and discussions surrounding hair during the Migration set the stage for later movements, like the Black Power and Civil Rights eras, where natural hair became a potent symbol of racial pride and resistance against Eurocentric norms. The act of choosing a hair style, once a personal decision, was imbued with profound social and political meaning, reflecting the deeper currents of the African American experience. This continuous dialogue, born out of the migration experience, illustrates a sustained commitment to defining Black beauty on its own terms, a process rooted in historical struggle and enduring cultural vitality.

Reflection on the Heritage of African American Migration
As we contemplate the profound currents of the African American Migration, particularly through the prism of textured hair, we come to understand it as far more than a simple movement of bodies across geographies. It represents a spiritual passage, a courageous endeavor to claim an ancestral birthright of freedom and self-expression. The very strands of hair, once tended in rural Southern communities with inherited wisdom and communal hands, journeyed alongside their owners, becoming silent witnesses to profound transformations. They adapted, adopted new forms, and, in so doing, became living archives of a people’s enduring spirit.
This journey invites us to consider hair not merely as a biological expression but as a deeply symbolic extension of self and community, a repository of generational resilience. The choices made about hair during the Migration—whether to straighten, to adorn, to innovate—were not superficial gestures. They were intimately tied to aspirations for dignity, economic stability, and the complex process of shaping a distinct Black urban identity. These acts were whispers of defiance against a world that sought to diminish, and joyous affirmations of an inner strength that could not be contained.
The legacy of this historical movement continues to breathe within the diverse textures and styles we see today. It reminds us of the ancestral hands that nurtured hair with reverence, the ingenious minds that crafted products from necessity, and the indomitable spirit that found beauty amidst adversity. Our contemporary appreciation for textured hair, our exploration of its myriad forms, and our commitment to its holistic wellness are direct echoes of this great journey.
They are reflections of a heritage that values every coil, every curl, every strand as a sacred connection to a powerful past and a vibrant future. The stories held within each hair follicle beckon us to listen, to learn, and to honor the unbroken lineage of care, creativity, and profound self-love.

References
- Bundles, A’Lelia. On Her Own Ground ❉ The Life and Times of Madam C. J. Walker. Scribner, 2001.
- Gill, Tiffany M. Beauty Shop Politics ❉ African American Women’s Activism in the Beauty Industry. University of Illinois Press, 2010.
- History.com Editors. “Great Migration ❉ Definition, Causes & Impact.” History.com, A&E Television Networks, 2010.
- Oxford Research Encyclopedia of American History. “Black Women and Beauty Culture in 20th-Century America.” Oxford University Press, 2017.
- Intellect Discover. “Fabricating black modernity ❉ Fashion and African American womanhood during the first great migration.” Intellect Ltd, 2019.