
Fundamentals
The concept of Access and Benefit Sharing, often referred to as ABS, outlines a foundational principle for interacting with the Earth’s living heritage ❉ biological resources and the profound traditional knowledge connected to them. At its very heart, this mechanism addresses how genetic resources are sought and utilized, along with the subsequent distribution of any gains arising from their application. It is a framework ensuring that the providers of these resources, whether they are sovereign nations or indigenous and local communities, receive a fair and equitable portion of the benefits derived from their use. This could involve, for instance, a cosmetic company developing a new hair product from a plant discovered and cultivated by a community for generations.

Core Principles of Equitable Exchange
Understanding ABS means acknowledging that biodiversity, while a global treasure, exists within national boundaries and is often stewarded by specific communities. Therefore, each nation possesses the right to govern access to its genetic resources. The core elements of ABS typically involve a careful process:
- Prior Informed Consent (PIC) ❉ This denotes the permission granted by the country or community providing the genetic resources to a user before any access occurs. It ensures that the providers are fully aware of the intentions and potential uses of the resources and agree to their collection.
- Mutually Agreed Terms (MAT) ❉ Once PIC is secured, the provider and user negotiate a contract that outlines the specific conditions for accessing the resources and, crucially, how the benefits will be shared. These terms define the parameters of the relationship, striving for fairness in all dealings.
- Benefit Sharing ❉ The benefits stemming from the utilization of genetic resources are shared. These can take various forms, monetary and non-monetary. Monetary benefits might include royalties or direct payments, while non-monetary gains could encompass technology transfer, capacity building, or shared research results.
The very meaning of ABS is rooted in recognizing the inherent value, both ecological and cultural, of these biological assets and the knowledge surrounding them. It seeks to prevent historical imbalances where resources were taken without proper acknowledgment or compensation, a practice sometimes referred to as biopiracy.
The foundational principle of Access and Benefit Sharing ensures that the profound wisdom embedded in traditional knowledge and the richness of genetic resources are respected and their benefits are distributed equitably.

An Elemental Agreement ❉ The Convention on Biological Diversity
The Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD), adopted in 1992, represents a cornerstone for ABS. This international agreement marked a pivotal shift, moving away from the historical notion of genetic resources as a “common heritage of mankind” to recognizing the sovereign rights of states over their biological diversity. Article 15 of the CBD specifically enshrines the principle of fair and equitable sharing of benefits arising from the utilization of genetic resources. The subsequent Nagoya Protocol on Access to Genetic Resources and the Fair and Equitable Sharing of Benefits Arising from their Utilization, adopted in 2010, further solidified and elaborated on these principles, providing a legally binding framework for their implementation.
The Protocol specifically addresses traditional knowledge linked to genetic resources, underscoring the necessity of obtaining prior informed consent from indigenous and local communities before such knowledge is used. This emphasis on local communities signifies a deeper recognition of their profound role as stewards of biodiversity and repositories of ancestral wisdom.

Intermediate
The intermediate understanding of Access and Benefit Sharing moves beyond the basic definitions, delving into the practical mechanisms and the nuanced interplay of diverse stakeholders. This deeper look recognizes ABS not merely as a legal construct but as a living framework that seeks to reconcile historical inequities and honor the ancestral legacy woven into genetic resources and their associated traditional knowledge. It addresses the practical steps required for responsible engagement with biodiversity, particularly as it pertains to the realms of traditional hair care and wellness.

The Architecture of Ethical Engagement
Navigating the terrain of ABS requires a clear understanding of its operational pillars. These are not static directives but dynamic processes designed to facilitate respectful interaction and ensure fairness in outcomes.
- Prior Informed Consent (PIC) in Practice ❉ Securing PIC means more than a signature on a document. It demands a genuine dialogue with providers, whether they are national authorities or indigenous and local communities. This engagement must clarify the intended uses of the genetic resource and any associated traditional knowledge, the potential benefits, and the mechanism for sharing these benefits. For example, when a company seeks a botanical for a new hair elixir, obtaining PIC from the community that has cultivated and understood that plant’s properties for generations involves a thoughtful conversation about their traditional uses and the potential commercial journey.
- Mutually Agreed Terms (MAT) for a Shared Future ❉ MAT represents the contractual agreement that emerges from the PIC process. It delineates the specific conditions of access, the scope of utilization, and the modalities of benefit sharing. This document can be intricate, specifying monetary returns like royalties on sales, or non-monetary benefits such as joint research ventures, training, technology transfer, or even the establishment of community development funds. The aim is to create a partnership where both sides find value and equity in the arrangement.
- Compliance Measures and Oversight ❉ The implementation of ABS is reinforced by compliance measures at national and international levels. The Nagoya Protocol, for instance, obligates signatory countries to establish checkpoints to monitor the utilization of genetic resources and associated traditional knowledge. This creates a system of accountability, ensuring that agreements are honored and that benefits flow back to the rightful providers.
The journey of a genetic resource, from its source to a product, becomes a narrative of shared responsibility. This extends to the personal care and cosmetics industries, where demand for natural ingredients means increased interaction with biodiversity-rich regions.
Access and Benefit Sharing functions as a dynamic framework, meticulously designed to ensure fair and equitable engagement with biological resources and traditional knowledge, honoring ancestral practices through structured agreements and shared gains.

The Reverberations of Ancestral Knowledge in Hair Care
The connection between ABS and textured hair heritage is particularly resonant. Many traditional hair care practices, passed down through generations within Black and mixed-race communities, rely upon specific plants and their inherent properties. These ancestral preparations were not simply cosmetic; they were interwoven with spiritual beliefs, community well-being, and identity. The knowledge of which plant treats a dry scalp, encourages growth, or provides a natural tint is often collective wisdom, refined over centuries.
For instance, the San people of the Kalahari Desert have for over 4,000 years utilized the Kalahari Melon (Citrullus Lanatus) for a myriad of purposes, including protecting their skin and promoting hair growth. They would grind the seeds into a paste for skin protection or extract oil for hair care. This deep ethnobotanical knowledge, a testament to sustained ancestral wisdom, highlights the inherent value of their practices. When modern cosmetic companies seek to incorporate ingredients like Kalahari melon oil into their formulations for moisturizing or anti-aging properties, it becomes imperative that the benefits derived from this commercialization are equitably shared with the San community.
South Africa’s National Environmental Management ❉ Biodiversity Act (NEMBA) and its Bioprospecting, Access and Benefit-Sharing (BABS) Regulations, established in 2008, aim to regulate access to indigenous genetic resources and ensure benefit sharing. This legal framework endeavors to address the potential for biopiracy, a historical concern where traditional knowledge was exploited without proper compensation or acknowledgment. Such legislation reflects a growing global awareness that the provenance of natural ingredients extends beyond geographical origin to encompass the human heritage of understanding and application.
| Aspect of Use Source Material |
| Ancestral Practice (San People) Seeds of Citrullus lanatus, wild-harvested. |
| Modern Cosmetic Application Cold-pressed oil from Citrullus lanatus seeds. |
| Aspect of Use Preparation Method |
| Ancestral Practice (San People) Seeds ground into a paste, or oil extracted through traditional means. |
| Modern Cosmetic Application Modern extraction methods, often cold-pressing for oil. |
| Aspect of Use Primary Hair Benefit |
| Ancestral Practice (San People) Protection against harsh desert elements, promotion of hair growth. |
| Modern Cosmetic Application Moisturizing, conditioning, anti-aging properties for hair and scalp. |
| Aspect of Use Associated Knowledge |
| Ancestral Practice (San People) Traditional knowledge passed down for over 4,000 years. |
| Modern Cosmetic Application Scientific research on linoleic acid, antioxidants, and fatty acids. |
| Aspect of Use The journey of Kalahari melon from ancestral remedy to global ingredient exemplifies the need for robust Access and Benefit Sharing mechanisms to honor the wisdom of its original stewards. |

Recognizing Collective Heritage
The principle of ABS underscores that traditional knowledge is often a collective asset, held by communities rather than individuals. This communal ownership means that benefits should flow back to the community, supporting their ongoing stewardship of biodiversity and cultural practices. It is a recognition that the “innovation” found in a new hair product might, in fact, be an echo of centuries of inherited wisdom.
The value of this wisdom is immeasurable, representing an unbroken chain of human ingenuity and resilience. Protecting this heritage involves more than just intellectual property rights; it necessitates a recognition of cultural expressions and the deep connection between people and their environment.

Academic
The academic understanding of Access and Benefit Sharing (ABS) transcends a simple definition, morphing into a complex legal, ethical, and socio-economic discourse. It requires a rigorous examination of its theoretical underpinnings, practical challenges, and its profound implications for global equity, particularly as it intersects with the heritage of textured hair and the ancestral wisdom of diverse communities. This academic exploration considers ABS as a dynamic concept, continuously shaped by evolving international law, scientific advancements, and the enduring calls for justice from indigenous and local communities.

The Delineation of Access and Benefit Sharing
Access and Benefit Sharing, within an academic framework, is interpreted as a regulatory and contractual mechanism established to govern the fair and equitable sharing of benefits arising from the utilization of genetic resources and associated traditional knowledge. It emerged as a direct consequence of the Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD) and its subsequent Nagoya Protocol. The CBD, adopted in 1992, fundamentally reoriented the global perspective on biological resources from being a “common heritage of mankind” to recognizing the sovereign rights of states over their inherent biodiversity. Article 15 of the CBD laid the groundwork for this, positing that access to genetic resources should be subject to the prior informed consent of the providing country and that benefits arising from their use should be shared on mutually agreed terms.
The Nagoya Protocol, entering into force in 2014, elaborated on these principles, creating a legally binding framework. Its significance stems from its explicit provisions regarding traditional knowledge (TK) associated with genetic resources. The Protocol mandates that access to such knowledge requires the prior informed consent of the indigenous and local communities (ILCs) holding it, along with the establishment of mutually agreed terms for benefit sharing. The interpretation of “utilization” in this context is broad, encompassing research and development on the genetic and/or biochemical composition of resources, including biotechnology applications.
The meaning of benefit sharing extends beyond mere monetary compensation, encompassing a spectrum of non-monetary benefits such as technology transfer, capacity building, participation in research, and joint intellectual property ownership. This nuanced interpretation seeks to acknowledge the multifaceted value of traditional knowledge and ensure that benefits align with the cultural and developmental aspirations of provider communities.

The Interconnectedness of Hair Heritage and Biopiracy
The historical backdrop against which ABS emerged reveals a pattern of what is termed biopiracy ❉ the appropriation and commercialization of genetic resources and traditional knowledge without adequate consent or compensation to the originating communities. This phenomenon casts a long shadow over the heritage of textured hair, which is intrinsically linked to ancestral practices and the botanical knowledge passed through generations. Many ingredients common in traditional Black and mixed-race hair care, from plant oils to herbal infusions, represent a sophisticated ethnobotanical inheritance.
When these resources or the knowledge of their use are commercialized globally without adherence to ABS principles, it perpetuates a form of economic and cultural injustice. L’Oréal, for example, a major beauty brand, has been cited in discussions surrounding biopiracy due to its patenting of Kava (Piper methysticum), a plant traditionally used by Pacific communities to reduce hair loss and stimulate hair growth, highlighting the critical need for robust ABS frameworks in the beauty industry.
Academic analysis of Access and Benefit Sharing reveals a complex interplay of legal frameworks, ethical imperatives, and socio-economic dynamics, striving to rectify historical injustices and empower communities through equitable recognition of their inherited bio-cultural wealth.
The academic perspective underscores the complexities of attributing origin and ensuring equitable benefit sharing for traditional knowledge, especially when it has been shared across diverse communities over long periods. The challenge is to move beyond a simplistic view of intellectual property and recognize the communal and intergenerational nature of traditional knowledge. Research indicates that a significant percentage of African plants used for hair care also exhibit properties relevant to general health, hinting at a holistic ancestral understanding of well-being that intertwines physical appearance with deeper physiological states.
A study found that among 68 African plant species identified for traditional hair care, 58 species (or 85.3%) also demonstrated potential as antidiabetic treatments, underscoring the interconnectedness of traditional applications and validating ancient holistic approaches to health. This figure profoundly illustrates the expansive, intergenerational wisdom held by indigenous communities regarding natural resources and their applications, a wisdom that often spans beyond a single utilitarian purpose to encompass broader health benefits.

Challenges in Implementation for Ancestral Hair Practices
The application of ABS within the context of textured hair heritage presents unique challenges:
- Defining “Associated Traditional Knowledge” ❉ The Nagoya Protocol requires PIC for traditional knowledge associated with genetic resources, yet a universally accepted precise definition of “traditional knowledge” itself remains elusive at the international level. This ambiguity can complicate the implementation of ABS for communal hair care practices, which may not be formally codified.
- Tracing the Genetic Journey ❉ Given the historical migration and cultural exchange within Black and mixed-race diasporas, tracing the definitive “country of origin” for certain genetic resources or traditional knowledge used in hair care can be difficult. Many plants or practices have been adapted and disseminated across continents.
- Capacity Building and Awareness ❉ Many indigenous and local communities, while rich in traditional knowledge, may lack the legal and technical capacity to effectively negotiate complex MAT with large corporations. This necessitates robust support mechanisms, including legal aid and educational initiatives, to ensure genuine equity.
- Historical Lineages of Hair Botanicals ❉ The legacy of botanical wisdom within textured hair care is vast, encompassing a multitude of plants utilized for their specific properties over centuries.
- Baobab Oil ❉ Extracted from the majestic “Tree of Life,” baobab oil has been used in various African communities for its moisturizing and strengthening qualities for hair and skin.
- Chebe Powder ❉ Originating from the Basara Arab women of Chad, this blend of herbs and seeds is renowned for its ability to strengthen hair and promote length retention.
- Fenugreek (Methi) ❉ A staple in South Asian and some African hair care traditions, fenugreek seeds are used to address hair loss and promote thickness.
The academic discourse also highlights the role of national legislation in translating international ABS frameworks into tangible protections. South Africa provides an instructive case study with its National Environmental Management ❉ Biodiversity Act (NEMBA) and the Bioprospecting, Access and Benefit-Sharing (BABS) Regulations. These laws govern bioprospecting involving indigenous biological resources and their associated traditional knowledge, mandating benefit-sharing agreements and the establishment of a Bioprospecting Trust Fund into which benefits are paid.
Such national frameworks aim to create a more controlled environment for the commercialization of biological resources, seeking to ensure that providers, particularly indigenous communities, truly benefit. The complexities of ensuring compliance and preventing clandestine biopiracy remain a significant area of academic inquiry and practical challenge for these regulatory bodies.

Reflection on the Heritage of Access Benefit Sharing
Our journey through the terrain of Access and Benefit Sharing, particularly as it intertwines with the rich heritage of textured hair, concludes not with a final pronouncement but with a reflective pause. ABS is more than a set of legal regulations or economic principles; it embodies a profound meditation on respect, reciprocity, and the enduring value of ancestral wisdom. The principles underpinning ABS call upon us to consider the echoes from the source, the tender threads of living traditions, and the unbound helix of identity shaping futures. It is a recognition that every strand of textured hair holds within it a narrative, a lineage stretching back through time, connected to the earth and the communities who have nurtured its gifts.
The wisdom embedded in indigenous hair care practices, from the application of a particular plant oil to the communal rituals of styling, represents a profound scientific understanding developed through millennia of observation and intergenerational transmission. This knowledge is not static; it lives, adapts, and continues to inform contemporary approaches to hair wellness. Therefore, when a resource or practice from this deep well of heritage finds its way into the global marketplace, ABS serves as a moral compass, guiding us toward ethical engagement.
It invites us to ask not just what benefits can be derived, but how those benefits can truly honor the source, flow back to the communities, and contribute to the flourishing of both biodiversity and human culture. The ongoing dialogue surrounding ABS and its practical implementation for textured hair heritage serves as a powerful reminder that true progress involves not just innovation, but also reverence for the past and responsibility for the future.

References
- Convention on Biological Diversity. Introduction to access and benefit-sharing. Accessed from www.cbd.int/abs/
- Convention on Biological Diversity. Nagoya Protocol on Access and Benefit-sharing and Traditional Knowledge. (2012).
- Mekonen, M. W. et al. (2025). Plants used for hair and skin health care by local communities of Afar, Northeastern Ethiopia. Journal of Ethnobiology and Ethnomedicine, 21(1), 38.
- Wikipedia. Kalahari melon oil. (Accessed 2025).
- Convention on Biological Diversity. Making the Nagoya Protocol work at the community level.
- Van Wyk, B. E. & Gericke, N. (2018). People’s Plants ❉ A Guide to Useful Plants of Southern Africa (2nd ed.). Briza Publications.
- GENRES.de. What is Access and Benefit Sharing? (Accessed 2025).
- Convention on Biological Diversity. The Nagoya Protocol on Access and Benefit-sharing. (2021).
- Roccoco Botanicals. Kalahari Melon Seed Oil And Why You Should Use It. (Accessed 2025).
- Danish Agricultural Agency. The Nagoya Protocol on Access and Benefit Sharing. (Accessed 2025).
- Convention on Biological Diversity. Nagoya Protocol on Access to Genetic Resources and the Fair and Equitable Sharing of Benefits Arising from their Utilization. (2010).
- Lancaster University. Nagoya Protocol. (Accessed 2025).
- South Africa Online. Kalahari Melon oil – Citrullus lanatus. (Accessed 2025).
- Hautala, C. (2014). Nagoya Protocol ❉ Response to Biopiracy Becomes Effective October 2014. Cosmetics & Toiletries.
- International Indigenous Policy Journal. The Nagoya Protocol and Indigenous Peoples. (Accessed 2025).
- Savane. Kalahari Melon oil. (Accessed 2025).
- Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment, South Africa. A business guide to access and benefit-sharing (ABS).
- Verde Marula, Ltd. Kalahari Melon Seed Oil. (Accessed 2025).
- Convention on Biological Diversity. Access and Benefit-Sharing (Nagoya Protocol and the CBD). (2025).
- Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment, South Africa. The Access and Benefit-Sharing (BABS) Clearing House of the Republic of South Africa. (Accessed 2025).
- African Centre for Biodiversity. Critical overview of South Africa’s bioprospecting laws. (2016).
- SANBI. Biodiversity Collection Permits in South Africa. (Accessed 2025).
- Ndhlovu, N. et al. (2024). Cosmetopoeia of African Plants in Hair Treatment and Care ❉ Topical Nutrition and the Antidiabetic Connection?. Cosmetics, 11(1), 22.
- Biodiversity Barbados. Access to Benefit-Sharing Focus Group Meetings. (2022).
- ResearchGate. A review of ethnobotanical research in southern Africa. (2002).
- Lange, J. P. & Von der Driesch, M. (2020). Facing the Harsh Reality of Access and Benefit Sharing (ABS) Legislation ❉ An Industry Perspective. Sustainability, 12(11), 4434.
- Cosmetics Europe. The Application of the “EU ABS Regulation” on Compliance Measures regarding Access to Genetic Resources and the Fair and Equ. (2019).
- EUR-Lex. Compliance with rules on access and benefit-sharing arising from the use of genetic resources and associated traditional knowledge. (2020).
- Fongnzossie, E. et al. (2024). Ethnobotany and pharmacognostic perspective of plant species used as traditional cosmetics and cosmeceuticals among the Gbaya ethnic group in Eastern Cameroon. ResearchGate.
- IGI Global. Ethnobotanical Advancements in Contemporary Skincare. (Accessed 2025).
- ResearchGate. Biodiversity of indigenous herbal potential medicinal plants used by the tribals for hair disorders and other diseases in Melghat forest of Amravati district, India. (2025).
- Le Bail, R. et al. (2022). Hair Growth Activity of Three Plants of the Polynesian Cosmetopoeia and Their Regulatory Effect on Dermal Papilla Cells. Planta Medica, 88(08), 863-871.
- Dutfield, G. (2020). Benefit Sharing and Traditional Knowledge ❉ Unsolved Dilemmas for Implementation The Challenge of Attribution and Origin. ResearchGate.
- Zhang, L. (2010). The Categories and Benefit-sharing of Traditional Knowledge Associated with Biodiversity. Journal of Nanjing Forestry University (Natural Sciences Edition), 34(6), 118-124.
- Mouchane, M. et al. (2023). Ethnobotanical Survey of Medicinal Plants used in the Treatment and Care of Hair in Karia ba Mohamed (Northern). Journal of Advanced Botany and Zoology, 10(2), 200-208.
- Hamza, A. et al. (2023). Traditional Knowledge of Medicinal Plants Used for Cosmetic Purposes in The Fez-Meknes Region. Tropical Journal of Natural Product Research, 7(11), 5364-5370.
- Hair.com By L’Oréal. The Importance of Indigenous Hair In Native Culture. (Accessed 2025).
- Robinson, D. F. (2025). A Regional Review of Genetic Resource Access and Benefit Sharing – Key Issues and Research Gaps. ResearchGate.
- Taxmann. The Intersection of Traditional Knowledge and Intellectual Property Rights. (2024).
- The South Centre. Research Papers ❉ The Nagoya Protocol on Access and Benefit Sharing of Genetic Resources ❉ Analysis and Implementation Options for Developing Countries. (Accessed 2025).
- Blakeney, M. & Sreeram, K. (2020). Access and Benefit Sharing of Genetic Resources, Information and Traditional Knowledge. Routledge.
- Fondation Danielle Mitterrand. Biopiracy. (Accessed 2025).
- The Nigerian Institute of Advanced Legal Studies. Bio-cultural knowledge and the challenges of intellectual property rights regimes for african develop. (Accessed 2025).
- eGyanKosh. UNIT 4 BIOPIRACY. (Accessed 2025).
- UNSW Sydney. Patents based on traditional knowledge are often ‘biopiracy’. A new international treaty will finally combat this. (2024).