1980s Hair Trends

Fundamentals

The 1980s hair trends, viewed through the lens of textured hair heritage, represent a complex period of evolving aesthetics and profound cultural expression. This era witnessed a dynamic interplay of innovation and adaptation, particularly within Black and mixed-race communities, who navigated both the lingering echoes of assimilationist beauty standards and a burgeoning desire for self-definition. Hair, for these communities, has always been more than mere adornment; it serves as a chronicle of identity, a canvas for storytelling, and a conduit to ancestral wisdom. The styling choices made during these years carry a deep significance, often speaking to collective experiences of resilience and the ongoing pursuit of self-acceptance.

Understanding the hair landscape of the 1980s requires acknowledging the long-standing traditions of hair care and styling within African diasporic cultures. Prior to colonial influences, hair in various African societies communicated a person’s identity, social standing, age, marital status, and even spiritual beliefs. Elaborate braided patterns and intricate adornments conveyed rich information about an individual’s place in society.

The transatlantic slave trade, however, forcibly severed many of these connections, with enslaved individuals often losing access to traditional tools and the time required for ancestral hair care practices. This historical trauma created a legacy of adapting to Eurocentric beauty standards, which often equated straight hair with “good” hair.

The 1980s hair trends for textured hair represent a vibrant intersection of societal shifts, technological advancements, and enduring cultural practices, each reflecting a chapter in the ongoing story of identity.

The meaning of 1980s hair trends, therefore, extends beyond fleeting fads. It encompasses the continuous adaptation of hair science to diverse textures and the persistent influence of traditional styling methods. This period saw the widespread popularization of styles such as the Jheri curl and various forms of braids, each with its own story of commercial development and cultural reclamation.

The underlying principles of hair care from ancient practices — focusing on moisture, protection, and scalp health — continued to inform choices, even as new chemical processes entered the market. These practices, passed down through generations, speak to a deep-seated knowledge of textured hair’s unique needs, a knowledge that resonated even as the beauty industry introduced novel solutions.

Intermediate

Delving deeper into the 1980s hair trends reveals a fascinating period where the historical resonance of hair practices met the contemporary quest for individuality. The decade’s styles were not simply about aesthetics; they held profound cultural and social implications, particularly for Black and mixed-race individuals. This era built upon the foundations laid by the Civil Rights Movement, which saw the Afro re-emerge as a powerful symbol of Black pride and a rejection of imposed beauty standards.

The Jheri curl stands as a prime example of this dynamic interplay. Though an Irish-American chemist and hairdresser, Jheri Redding, conceived the initial chemical process in the 1970s, it was the Black entrepreneur Comer Cottrell who democratized the style for the Black community. Cottrell’s Pro-Line Corporation introduced the “Curly Kit,” making the Jheri curl accessible to the masses at an affordable price, around $8 a box. This accessibility propelled the Jheri curl into a cultural phenomenon, with some statistics suggesting that as many as one in four African Americans sported the style during its peak.

The significance of the Jheri curl cannot be overstated within this historical context. It offered a “wash and wear” option that, for many, was perceived as easier to manage than traditional chemical relaxers or intricate daily styling. While it was a chemical treatment, its resulting loose, glossy curls were a departure from the bone-straight hair that had long been the aspiration under Eurocentric beauty ideals.

Icons like Michael Jackson, Lionel Richie, and other prominent figures in hip-hop and R&B embraced the Jheri curl, solidifying its status as a statement of cool and confident Black identity. This stylistic choice, while sometimes criticized as conforming to a new commercialized ideal, also provided a means of self-expression and identity assertion within the broader cultural landscape.

The 1980s saw significant shifts in hair care products, influenced by historical movements and economic forces, shaping how Black and mixed-race individuals expressed themselves.

Alongside the Jheri curl, other styles of the 1980s continued to reflect a deep connection to ancestral hair practices. The high-top fade, a defining look for Black men, showcased intricate designs etched into the hair, echoing ancient African traditions where hairstyles communicated complex messages. Braids, a practice with origins tracing back 5000 years in African culture, also remained prevalent, with styles like box braids finding renewed popularity. These braided styles, steeped in heritage, offered protection and versatility, demonstrating a continuous thread of traditional knowledge interwoven with contemporary trends.

The broader hair care industry for Black consumers during this time, while seeing some Black-owned businesses like Johnson Products achieve significant market share, also faced challenges. Johnson Products, known for its Ultra Sheen No-Base relaxer, once held about 60% of the Black hair-care market. However, by 1979, its market share had fallen to around 40% due to competition from larger companies like Revlon.

This economic dynamic highlights the ongoing struggle for ownership and representation within an industry historically shaped by external forces. Despite these challenges, the ingenuity and cultural resilience of Black entrepreneurs and consumers continued to drive innovation, adapting and reinterpreting ancestral practices to meet modern needs.

Academic

The 1980s hair trends, when subjected to rigorous academic scrutiny through the lens of textured hair heritage, reveal a complex phenomenon reflecting shifts in consumer behavior, the persistent influence of Eurocentric beauty standards, and the enduring resilience of Black and mixed-race cultural practices. The definition of these trends extends beyond mere aesthetic preferences; it encompasses the social, economic, and political dynamics that shaped hair choices for communities whose ancestral practices had been systematically disrupted. The era, characterized by specific chemical advancements and popular styling techniques, simultaneously mirrored a yearning for convenience and a deep-seated connection to heritage.

One cannot dissect the meaning of 1980s hair trends without acknowledging the historical continuum of Black hair care. From pre-colonial African societies where hair was a profound marker of identity, status, and spiritual connection, to the enforced suppression during the transatlantic slave trade, and the subsequent assimilationist pressures that promoted chemical straightening, the journey of Black hair has been one of adaptation and resistance. Garrett Augustus Morgan’s invention of the chemical relaxer in 1909, initially for easing friction on sewing machines, inadvertently became a tool for hair straightening, setting a precedent for chemical alteration that permeated the 20th century.

The advent and widespread adoption of the Jheri Curl during the 1980s serves as a compelling case study illuminating the interwoven threads of heritage, commerce, and identity. Originally conceived as a two-step chemical process by Jheri Redding, its transformative impact on the Black community was largely due to the entrepreneurial vision of Comer Cottrell. Cottrell, through Pro-Line Corporation, ingeniously repackaged the process into the readily available “Curly Kit,” which became remarkably affordable at approximately $8 a box. This accessibility directly contributed to its proliferation, allowing a wider demographic to achieve the loose, wet-look curls previously exclusive to celebrities.

Critically, some statistics suggest that by the mid-1980s, as many as one in four African Americans wore a Jheri curl (NPR, 2014). This widespread adoption, while superficially appearing to be a commercial success, simultaneously speaks to a deeper yearning for a low-maintenance style that still allowed for a visibly curly texture, contrasting with the more rigid, bone-straight relaxers that preceded it.

The social implications of the Jheri curl were multi-layered. It offered a perceived ease of care, positioning itself as a “wash and wear” alternative to other chemical treatments. However, the style demanded consistent application of activators and moisturizers, notoriously leading to greasy residue and potential hair damage if not meticulously maintained.

Despite these practical challenges, the Jheri curl symbolized a modern expression of Black style, worn by cultural arbiters like Michael Jackson, Ice Cube, and Rick James, thereby cementing its place in popular culture. It was a style that, for many, walked a fine line between embracing a more textured aesthetic and still adhering to a modified form of chemical alteration, a testament to the complex legacy of beauty standards that continued to exert influence.

Beyond the Jheri curl, other significant trends of the 1980s further underscore the heritage connection. The High-Top Fade, a sculptural masterpiece, allowed Black men to craft highly individualized statements, with designs and symbols often shaved into the sides. This practice, far from being a modern invention, echoes ancient African traditions where intricate hair designs communicated familial lineage, tribal affiliation, and social status. Cornrows, with their roots in agriculture and coded messages during slavery, also saw a resurgence, demonstrating a conscious return to and reimagining of ancestral braiding techniques.

From an academic perspective, the economic landscape of the Black beauty industry during the 1980s warrants particular attention. While Black entrepreneurs like Comer Cottrell achieved immense success with products like the Curly Kit, the broader industry saw shifts. Companies like Johnson Products, a Black-owned firm, experienced a decline in market share for relaxers, facing aggressive competition from larger, often white-owned, cosmetic giants like Revlon.

This economic pressure highlights the persistent challenges faced by Black-owned businesses in securing capital and competing against well-established corporations. (Banks, 2000; Byrd & Tharps, 2001; Tate, 2007) The very marketing of products, even those for textured hair, often perpetuated a “good hair” narrative that subtly reinforced Eurocentric ideals.

The 1980s also witnessed institutional resistance to natural Black hairstyles. Organizations like the Hyatt hotel chain faced scrutiny for terminating Black female employees who wore cornrows, demonstrating the pervasive nature of hair discrimination that extended beyond personal preference into the professional sphere. This resistance underlines the deeper political significance of Black hair choices, where personal style became a statement against systemic biases and a continuous struggle for the right to self-determination in appearance. The choices of hair in the 1980s, therefore, were not merely fashionable declarations; they were deeply embedded in the social, cultural, and economic liberation movements of the Black community, an ongoing negotiation of identity in a world that often sought to define it.

The interpretation of 1980s hair trends also necessitates a consideration of the meaning attributed to specific hair patterns and textures within the Black community. The Jheri curl, with its bouncy, looser curl pattern, presented a visual departure from the tight coils of an Afro, yet it was distinctly different from the bone-straight relaxed hair that had been a prevailing standard. This stylistic middle ground, though chemically induced, provided a space for exploring variations of curl, a dimension that had been historically marginalized.

The very terminology used to describe hair—”good hair” versus “bad hair”—a deeply ingrained social construct tied to racial hierarchies, continued to influence perceptions. The Jheri curl, in its commercialized form, subtly challenged this dichotomy by offering a desired curl pattern that was readily available, albeit with chemical intervention.

The academic elucidation of the 1980s hair trends within the Black and mixed-race experience therefore points to a period of pragmatic stylistic choices made within a socio-economic framework that still perpetuated certain beauty ideals. The embrace of specific styles, whether the Jheri curl or the high-top fade, reflects a continuous process of self-definition, where hair serves as a profound medium for expressing identity, heritage, and cultural pride, even as external pressures sought to shape and control it. The long-term consequences of consistent chemical treatments on textured hair and scalp health also became more apparent in later decades, leading to a renewed emphasis on natural hair care in the 2000s, a testament to the cyclical nature of hair trends and a continuous return to ancestral wisdom regarding hair integrity.

Reflection on the Heritage of 1980s Hair Trends

As we gaze back at the 1980s hair trends, particularly those that adorned textured hair, we perceive more than just passing styles; we find echoes of deep ancestral wisdom and the persistent spirit of cultural expression. Each coil, each defined curl, each sculpted fade from that vibrant decade carries within it the narrative of resilience, a testament to communities who have consistently found ways to celebrate their heritage through their crowns, even amidst challenging tides. The Jheri curl, for instance, a defining aesthetic of the era, speaks to a complex dialogue between aspiration and authenticity, a desire for both perceived ease and a distinct visual identity that resonated powerfully within Black communities. This style, though chemically formed, offered a unique interpretation of curl, a deviation from the pervasive straightness that had long been championed.

The period also reminds us that innovation in hair care has often arisen from necessity and a profound understanding of textured hair’s unique biological composition. The journey of products, from the initial chemical formulations to the widespread availability of home kits, tells a story of an industry responding to, and sometimes shaping, the needs and desires of a distinct consumer base. Yet, even as new chemicals and techniques emerged, the underlying yearning for hair that felt nourished and vibrant, a heritage of care passed down through generations, remained constant.

Our ancestors understood the delicate balance of moisture and protection for their hair, a wisdom evident in their use of natural oils and herbal treatments. These ancient practices, now often validated by modern science, form the bedrock of understanding for healthy textured hair.

In essence, the 1980s hair trends, viewed through this heritage lens, are not simply about what was fashionable; they are about how communities, particularly those of Black and mixed-race descent, continued to define beauty on their own terms. They speak to the enduring spirit of self-determination, the quiet and sometimes boisterous acts of reclaiming identity through visible markers. The styles of that decade, with their distinct shapes and textures, embody a powerful continuity of expression, linking contemporary choices to ancient traditions. This period was a vivid chapter in the ongoing story of textured hair – a narrative of adaptation, reclamation, and the unwavering celebration of identity, forever etched in the very strands that adorn our heads.