1980s Hair History

Fundamentals

The 1980s Hair History, when considered through the lens of Roothea’s living library, represents a vibrant, sometimes complex, chapter in the enduring story of textured hair. This period is not merely a collection of styles; it is a profound declaration of identity, a response to prevailing social currents, and a continuation of ancestral dialogues about beauty and self-expression. The meaning of hair during this decade extends beyond mere aesthetics, signifying cultural shifts, technological advancements in hair care, and the ongoing negotiation of Black and mixed-race identities within a broader societal context. It offers an interpretation of how individuals chose to present themselves, often with profound implications for their place in the world.

At its core, the 1980s saw a fascinating interplay between chemical treatments and a growing, albeit often challenged, appreciation for natural textures. While the “Black is Beautiful” movement of the 1960s and 1970s had championed the Afro as a symbol of pride and resistance, the 1980s introduced new avenues for manipulating hair’s natural curl patterns. This era is perhaps best characterized by the rise of the Jheri curl, a style that offered a glossy, loosely curled appearance, a departure from the more tightly coiled Afro. This particular style, alongside others, contributed to a rich and varied landscape of hair expression, each choice carrying its own specific designation within cultural narratives.

Defining the Decade’s Hair Landscape

The 1980s hair scene for Black and mixed-race individuals was a dynamic canvas, a period where various styles co-existed, each with its own story. It was a time when the echoes of the natural hair movement of the previous decades still resonated, even as new chemical innovations presented different possibilities for hair manipulation. The choices made were often a reflection of personal style, but also, importantly, of broader societal pressures and aspirations. The explication of these trends helps us understand the continuous thread of hair as a marker of self.

• The Jheri Curl ❉ This iconic style, invented by Jheri Redding and popularized within the Black community by entrepreneur Comer Cottrell, provided a shiny, wet-look curl that became a significant trend. It promised a “wash and wear” convenience, a stark contrast to the often labor-intensive maintenance of other styles.
• Relaxers ❉ Chemical relaxers, which had been present for decades, continued to be a common method for achieving straightened hair, offering a smooth, sleek appearance. The development of “no-lye” relaxers, like Johnson Products Company’s Gentle Treatment in 1981, aimed to provide a less irritating experience for the scalp.
• Braids and Cornrows ❉ These ancestral styles, deeply rooted in African traditions, continued to be worn, though sometimes faced discrimination in professional settings. Their presence speaks to the enduring heritage and resilience of Black hair practices, even amidst evolving beauty standards.

The significance of these styles extends beyond their visual appeal; they represent different approaches to textured hair care and self-presentation. The 1980s, therefore, stands as a testament to the ongoing dialogue between historical hair practices and contemporary choices, a continuous negotiation of identity and belonging.

Intermediate

Moving beyond the surface, the 1980s Hair History, particularly concerning textured hair, unveils a deeper sense of societal negotiation and cultural evolution. It was a decade where the lines between assimilation and affirmation often blurred, where hair became a palpable symbol of aspiration, defiance, and belonging. The elucidation of this period requires an appreciation for the social and economic forces that shaped hair choices, revealing the profound import of each strand and style. This period offers a complex interpretation of beauty standards and their influence on Black and mixed-race communities.

The Jheri curl, for instance, while often remembered for its glossy, sometimes drippy, appearance, held a complex meaning. It represented a certain modernity, a departure from the Afro’s overtly political statement of the previous era, yet it still allowed for a curly aesthetic, distinct from pin-straight styles. This dual nature meant it could be seen as a bridge, or perhaps a compromise, between the natural hair movement’s ideals and the prevailing Eurocentric beauty standards that still held considerable sway.

The commercialization of the Jheri curl through at-home kits, notably Comer Cottrell’s “Curly Kit,” democratized the style, making it accessible to a wider segment of the Black community. This accessibility, however, also led to a mass adoption that, for some, eventually diluted its initial allure, transforming it from a symbol of aspiration to one that, in retrospect, carried a sense of embarrassment for some.

The 1980s hair landscape for textured hair was a testament to both adaptation and enduring heritage, a period where innovation met ancestral practice.

The Socio-Economic Threads of Hair Care

The economic dimensions of 1980s hair care for Black communities cannot be overstated. The beauty industry, recognizing a significant market, began to produce and advertise products specifically for textured hair, though often with a focus on altering its natural state. This created a billion-dollar industry, underscoring the considerable investment individuals made in their hair. The introduction of at-home relaxer kits and Jheri curl kits meant that salon visits, once a necessity for chemical treatments, became less frequent for some, shifting the economic dynamics of hair care.

Consider the impact of these developments:

1. Accessibility and Cost ❉ The “Curly Kit,” priced at around $8, made the Jheri curl significantly more affordable than salon treatments, which could cost $200-$300. This cost reduction allowed a broader segment of the Black population to participate in this popular trend.
2. Product Innovation ❉ The decade saw the introduction of “no-lye” relaxers, aimed at reducing scalp irritation, reflecting a growing awareness of the chemical impact on hair health. This represents a continuum of innovation in Black hair care, building upon the foundations laid by pioneers like Madam C.J. Walker and Annie Malone in earlier decades.
3. Industry Growth ❉ By 2006, the Black hair care market had become a billion-dollar industry, a testament to the long-standing commitment and financial investment within the community towards hair care. This economic power, however, was often wielded by companies that did not always prioritize the health or natural state of textured hair.

The historical significance of these trends lies in their capacity to illustrate the complex relationship between hair, commerce, and identity. The products and styles of the 1980s were not simply commodities; they were integral to how Black individuals navigated societal expectations and expressed their personal and collective heritage.

The discrimination faced by those who chose to wear traditional styles like braids and cornrows, even as these styles gained some mainstream visibility, further underscores the ongoing struggle for hair freedom. This tension between embracing ancestral practices and conforming to dominant beauty norms provides a crucial context for understanding the nuanced choices of the era. The 1980s, therefore, serves as a powerful case study in the resilience of textured hair heritage in the face of evolving societal pressures.

Academic

The 1980s Hair History, when subjected to rigorous academic scrutiny through the lens of Textured Hair Heritage, transcends a mere chronicle of changing styles; it becomes a profound socio-cultural phenomenon, a complex negotiation of identity, power, and ancestral memory. The definition of this period, therefore, must extend beyond superficial trends to encompass the intricate interplay of biological realities, historical subjugation, and the enduring spirit of self-determination. It is a period where the very substance of hair became a contested terrain, reflecting broader struggles for autonomy and recognition within Black and mixed-race communities. This period’s meaning is deeply rooted in the collective experiences of those whose hair was, and often remains, a site of both oppression and celebration.

The significance of the 1980s within this heritage narrative is particularly evident in the rise and eventual re-evaluation of chemical hair treatments. While relaxers and the Jheri curl offered pathways to conformity with Eurocentric beauty ideals, they also carried hidden costs—not only financial but also physical and psychological. The widespread adoption of the Jheri curl, for instance, exemplified a curious duality ❉ it was a chemical process, yet it yielded a curly texture, a deviation from the bone-straight ideal that had long dominated.

This shift, however subtle, represents a fascinating inflection point, where the pursuit of a “manageable” curl inadvertently paved the way for a later re-engagement with natural textures, albeit after a period of chemical reliance. The designation of these styles as “wash and wear” often belied the extensive maintenance and product use required, highlighting a consumer culture that sometimes promised ease while delivering a different reality.

The 1980s hair story is a powerful testament to the resilience of ancestral hair practices, even when shadowed by the allure of chemical alteration.

The Jheri Curl ❉ A Case Study in Cultural Contestation

To fully grasp the complexities of 1980s hair history, particularly its connection to textured hair heritage, one must examine the Jheri curl as a singular, yet profoundly illustrative, phenomenon. Its ubiquitous presence, particularly within the Black community, offers a rich case study for understanding the interplay of commercialism, identity, and historical memory. While invented by Jheri Redding, a white man, its mass popularization among African Americans was largely due to the entrepreneurial vision of Comer Cottrell, whose Pro-Line Corporation introduced the affordable “Curly Kit.” This act of making the style accessible democratized a look that had previously been salon-exclusive, profoundly impacting the visual landscape of Black America.

The Jheri curl’s rise coincided with a period when the explicit political statements of the Afro had somewhat receded, giving way to more diverse, yet still identity-laden, expressions. As Tracey Owens Patton observed in “Hey Girl, Am I More than My Hair?”, the progressive changes of the Black Power movement eroded as assimilation became more dominant in the late 1970s and throughout the 1980s. Yet, the Jheri curl, with its distinct wet look and bouncy curls, was never truly an assimilationist style in the same vein as a bone-straight perm.

It occupied a liminal space, offering a “curly” aesthetic that was different from the natural Afro, yet not entirely Eurocentric. This nuanced positioning allowed it to become a cultural staple, worn by icons like Michael Jackson and Ice Cube, thereby solidifying its place in the collective memory.

However, the Jheri curl also serves as a potent example of the challenges inherent in chemically altering textured hair. The required two-part application, involving a softener and a setting solution, often left hair brittle and dry. Daily application of curl activator sprays and moisturizers was necessary, leading to considerable expense and the infamous “drip” that could stain clothing and furniture. This high-maintenance reality often contradicted the “wash and wear” marketing, leading to a cultural memory tinged with both nostalgia and exasperation.

The comedian Paul Mooney’s line, “If your hair is relaxed, they are relaxed. If your hair is nappy, they are not happy,” while from a later film, encapsulates the enduring societal pressure on Black hair, a pressure that the Jheri curl, in its own way, both responded to and perpetuated.

From an academic perspective, the Jheri curl offers a unique opportunity to examine the complex relationship between technological innovation, consumer behavior, and the construction of racial identity. It underscores how beauty practices are not simply personal choices but are deeply embedded within broader historical, economic, and social structures. The meaning of the Jheri curl, therefore, is not singular; it is a layered artifact of a decade that grappled with the legacy of the past and the aspirations of the future, all expressed through the very strands of textured hair.

The examination of hair in the 1980s also necessitates a look at the legal and social discrimination that continued to plague Black individuals who chose to wear natural or traditional styles. Despite the popularization of braids and cornrows, cases of workplace discrimination persisted, highlighting a societal resistance to hair that deviated from Eurocentric norms. In 1981, a Black woman took American Airlines to court because the company demanded she not wear her hair in braids.

This specific historical example powerfully illuminates the 1980s Hair History’s connection to textured hair heritage, Black/mixed hair experiences, and ancestral practices, demonstrating that even as styles evolved, the fundamental struggle for hair freedom remained. The CROWN Act, passed much later in 2019, represents a continued effort to legislate against such discrimination, a direct lineage from the struggles of the 1980s.

The academic delineation of 1980s hair history, therefore, is not merely a recounting of styles; it is an analysis of power dynamics, economic agency, and the profound resilience of cultural heritage. It underscores how hair, in its very biological essence and its social presentation, serves as a powerful testament to the ongoing journey of self-definition within diasporic communities.

Reflection on the Heritage of 1980s Hair History

As we gaze upon the vibrant, sometimes contradictory, landscape of 1980s hair history, particularly through the lens of textured hair, we do not merely observe a bygone era; we witness the living, breathing legacy of ancestral resilience and the enduring spirit of self-definition. The 1980s, with its Jheri curls and evolving relaxer formulations, stands as a testament to the continuous dance between adapting to prevailing currents and honoring the deep wellspring of heritage that flows through every strand. This period, in Roothea’s living library, reminds us that hair is never simply hair; it is a repository of stories, a canvas for identity, and a profound connection to the generations that came before.

The choices made during this decade, whether they leaned towards chemical alteration or the steadfast embrace of braids and cornrows, were imbued with meaning. They were often a response to a world that still sought to define Black beauty through a narrow, Eurocentric lens, yet within those constraints, creativity and a distinct cultural signature persisted. The Jheri curl, for all its maintenance demands and eventual comedic associations, was a significant moment, a style that allowed for a different expression of curl, a movement away from the rigidly straightened look, even if achieved through chemical means. It speaks to the human desire for variety, for new forms of beauty, even as it unknowingly paved the way for later re-examinations of what “natural” truly means.

The journey of textured hair through the 1980s is a powerful reminder that our hair carries echoes from the source, from ancient practices that prioritized nourishment and communal care. It is a tender thread, connecting us to the wisdom of our forebears who understood the biology of our strands and the sacredness of our crowns. The discrimination faced by those who chose to wear their hair in ancestral styles during this time serves as a poignant illustration of the ongoing struggle for hair freedom, a struggle that continues to shape legislation and cultural conversations today. Yet, even in the face of such challenges, the ingenuity and spirit of those who continued to style, adorn, and care for their textured hair with reverence shines through.

Ultimately, the 1980s in hair history is an unbound helix, twisting and turning, sometimes away from, sometimes back towards, the core of textured hair heritage. It invites us to consider not just what styles were popular, but why they were chosen, what they represented, and how they contributed to the rich, layered narrative of Black and mixed-race identity. It calls upon us to listen to the whispers of the past, to learn from the triumphs and tribulations of those who shaped their crowns, and to carry forward the legacy of honoring every curl, coil, and kink as a sacred part of who we are.

References

• Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. L. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Dabiri, E. (2020). Twisted ❉ The Tangled History of Black Hair Culture. Harper Perennial.
• Patton, T. O. (2006). Hey Girl, Am I More than My Hair? ❉ African American Women and Their Struggles with Beauty, Body Image, and Hair. NWSA Journal, 18 (2), 24-51.
• Rooks, N. M. (1996). Hair Raising ❉ Beauty, Culture, and African American Women. Rutgers University Press.
• Weitz, R. (2004). Rapunzel’s Daughters ❉ What Women’s Hair Tells Us about Women’s Lives. Farrar, Straus and Giroux.
• Willett, J. A. (2000). Permanent Waves ❉ The Making of the American Beauty Shop. New York University Press.
• Jacobs-Huey, L. (2006). From the Kitchen to the Parlor ❉ Language and Becoming in African American Women’s Hair Care. Oxford University Press.