Roots
In every strand of textured hair, a whisper of ages past resides, carrying the echoes of ancestral wisdom and the enduring spirit of our lineage. To ask why textured hair needs gentle care is to embark on a profound study, one that transcends mere biology and descends into the very soul of a strand, tracing its heritage across continents and generations. This inquiry calls us to consider not only the unique structure of these crowning coils but also the history that shaped our approach to their keeping.
From the sun-kissed plains of ancient Africa to the vibrant communities of the diaspora, hair has always held a sacred place. It was a language, a symbol of identity, status, and spiritual connection. Hair was revered, and its care was a communal ritual, a tender act passed down through the hands of mothers, grandmothers, and community elders. Understanding this deep heritage provides the grounding for recognizing the inherent need for gentle care our hair requires today.
Hair Anatomy and Its Ancestral Resonance
The very architecture of textured hair, distinct from other hair types, dictates a particular tenderness in its care. Unlike straight strands, which typically grow from round follicles, textured hair springs from elliptical or asymmetrical follicles, creating its characteristic curl patterns. This curvature, ranging from waves to tight coils, means that the hair shaft is not a uniform cylinder but rather a series of bends and turns. These points of curvature represent natural areas of vulnerability, where the hair cuticle, the outermost protective layer, may be less uniformly sealed or more prone to lifting.
This inherent structure makes textured hair susceptible to dryness and breakage. The natural oils produced by the scalp find it harder to travel down the curved shaft, leaving the ends particularly dry. Furthermore, the tightly packed coils can make detangling a delicate operation, as strands are more likely to interlock and snap if not handled with consideration. Recognizing these biological realities connects us directly to the wisdom of our forebears, who, through observation and practice, developed regimens that instinctively catered to this delicate nature.
The distinctive curvature of textured hair, a biological inheritance, underscores its inherent vulnerability and its need for gentle care.
Understanding Hair Classifications and Historical Bias
The contemporary systems used to classify hair textures, often with numbers and letters, aim to categorize curl patterns. While these systems can be useful for product selection and styling guidance, it is imperative to acknowledge their fraught historical origins and their potential to perpetuate prejudice. The very concept of hair typing, in some of its earliest iterations, was entwined with discriminatory practices.
One historical example of this problematic origin traces back to the early 20th century. Eugen Fischer, a German eugenicist, developed a “hair gauge” in 1908 to categorize Namibians’ hair texture, aiming to determine their “proximity to whiteness”. This dehumanizing practice was part of a broader system of racial classification used to justify oppression and atrocities. This stark historical reality reminds us that the language we use to describe hair carries a legacy, and that true appreciation for textured hair necessitates a rejection of any system that diminishes its beauty or places it within a hierarchy of “desirability.”
The modern hair typing system, popularized by Andre Walker, categorizes hair into types 1 (straight) through 4 (tightly coiled), with letter subdivisions. While not intended to rank hair textures, its application can sometimes still reflect the societal biases that privilege looser curl patterns. This historical context is vital for understanding why celebrating and caring for all textured hair types, particularly those with tighter coils, becomes an act of ancestral honoring and cultural affirmation.
What Ancestral Terms Inform Our Current Understanding?
Across Africa, and among communities of the diaspora, hair was described not through a detached scientific lexicon, but with terms that spoke of its vitality, its symbolism, and the meticulous care it received. There were names for specific styles, for the tools used, and for the communal acts of grooming. These terms were not merely labels; they were embodiments of cultural meaning.
For instance, the Yoruba people of Nigeria held the hair as an elevated part of the body, believing its care brought good fortune. Their language would have reflected this reverence, speaking of hair in terms of its spiritual connection and its role in conveying social messages.
- Irun Kiko ❉ A Yoruba term for African hair threading, a practice for maintaining hair health dating back to the 15th century.
- Dukus ❉ Headwraps in Ghana, traditionally signifying wealth, ethnicity, or marital status.
- Doek ❉ A term for head coverings in Namibia, also reflecting identity and status.
Understanding these linguistic legacies helps us to reclaim and re-center the conversation around textured hair care, moving it from a Western-centric, often problematic, framework to one rooted in the richness of its heritage. This connection to ancestral ways of speaking about hair care encourages us to approach it with the dignity it deserves.
Hair Growth Cycles and Historical Influences
Hair follows natural cycles of growth, rest, and shedding. While modern science details these phases—anagen (growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (rest)—historical practices often observed these natural rhythms, adapting care routines to promote length retention and scalp health. Environmental factors, nutrition, and even stress, all influenced by historical conditions, played a part in the vitality of hair. In times past, diets rich in indigenous plants and traditional foods, often supplemented with specific herbs and oils, provided the nourishment necessary for healthy growth.
For example, traditional African hair care often incorporated natural ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, aloe vera, and various plant extracts to nourish and protect hair. These practices aimed for moisture and scalp health, aligning with the biological needs of textured hair. The wisdom embedded in these ancestral methods speaks to a long-standing understanding of how to work with hair’s natural inclination, not against it. This gentle approach acknowledges the hair’s lifecycle and supports its journey from the root to the tip.
Ritual
The rhythms of care for textured hair extend beyond individual acts; they form a collective ritual, a tender thread connecting generations through shared practices and communal engagement. From the intricate braiding techniques that speak of ancient artistry to the tools that have sustained these traditions, the journey of textured hair care is deeply intertwined with cultural heritage. The deliberate acts of styling and maintenance become a living archive of community, resilience, and profound self-expression.
The heritage of textured hair care is visible in the hands that meticulously part, twist, and adorn, in the stories exchanged during hours of communal grooming. These rituals are not just about achieving a look; they are about preserving identity, reinforcing social bonds, and honoring a lineage of artistry and wisdom.
Protective Styling and Ancestral Roots
Protective styles, a cornerstone of textured hair care today, possess roots that stretch back millennia, deeply embedded in African cultures. These styles, which tuck away the hair ends and minimize manipulation, serve a dual purpose ❉ they guard against damage from environmental elements and frequent styling, and they also stand as powerful statements of cultural identity. Ancient African societies employed styles like cornrows, Bantu knots, and twists not simply for aesthetics, but as profound communicators of social status, marital standing, age, and even spiritual beliefs.
During periods of forced migration and enslavement, when hair was often shorn as a means of dehumanization, protective styles became acts of quiet resistance and cultural preservation. Oral histories recall instances where enslaved Africans in Colombia braided cornrow patterns that doubled as maps to escape routes, hidden in plain sight. This practice powerfully demonstrates how hair, and its protective styling, served as a means of survival and continuity amidst severe oppression. The gentle nature of these styles, designed to keep hair healthy and minimize breakage, is a legacy of ancestral ingenuity, born from a deep understanding of textured hair’s needs long before modern science articulated them.
How Do Ancestral Practices Shape Current Hair Care Tools?
The tools employed in the care of textured hair carry their own historical weight, many echoing methods used across generations. While modern implements offer new efficiencies, the principles often remain. Ancient African hair care involved a variety of implements for cleansing, combing, oiling, and adorning.
Combs with wider teeth, for instance, were crucial, acknowledging the delicate nature of textured hair, which is prone to breakage with finer-toothed combs. These tools, crafted from natural materials, were designed to work with the hair’s structure, preventing excessive tension and damage.
Even today, a wide-tooth comb is a staple for detangling textured hair, a direct descendant of those earlier, wider combs. The act of applying oils and butters by hand, a practice that encourages careful distribution and scalp massaging, aligns with ancestral wisdom where hands were the primary tools for applying nourishing ingredients. This continuity in tool selection highlights an enduring wisdom ❉ gentle, deliberate movements protect the hair’s integrity.
| Traditional Technique Coil Braiding |
| Purpose and Heritage Used across many West African groups to convey social messages; served to keep hair protected and organized, often incorporating communal bonding during the process. |
| Traditional Technique Hair Threading (Irun Kiko) |
| Purpose and Heritage A Yoruba technique dating to the 15th century, where threads are used to stretch and straighten hair without heat, promoting length retention and minimizing breakage. |
| Traditional Technique Bantu Knots |
| Purpose and Heritage Ancient African style for hair stretching and curl definition, also used for spiritual protection and community identification. |
| Traditional Technique Hot Combing (Post-Slavery Adaptation) |
| Purpose and Heritage Emerged in the late 19th/early 20th centuries as a means of straightening hair to conform to Eurocentric standards, a response to discrimination. |
| Traditional Technique The evolution of styling reflects adaptation and resilience, demonstrating how traditional methods prioritize hair health and cultural expression, while later adaptations arose from societal pressures. |
Natural Styling and Definition Techniques
The desire for definition and shape in textured hair is not a modern trend. Ancestral practices understood how to coax the natural curl into beautiful forms, often without harsh manipulation or chemicals. Methods such as finger coiling, twisting, and braiding, when done with care on hydrated hair, naturally define curls and coils. These methods rely on the hair’s inherent structure and moisture content, working with its natural tendencies rather than imposing a foreign shape through force.
The careful application of natural butters and oils, like Shea butter and traditional herbal mixtures, served as a hydrating medium to aid these styling processes. The emphasis was always on moisture and lubrication to minimize friction and prevent damage during styling. This gentle approach reflects a long-held understanding that textured hair, with its unique structure, requires tenderness at every step to maintain its integrity.
From ancient protective patterns to modern definition methods, textured hair care embraces a continuum of wisdom that prioritizes gentleness.
Wigs and Hair Extensions in Cultural Context
Wigs and hair extensions, often viewed as modern fashion statements, also possess a rich historical and cultural background within Black and mixed-race communities. In ancient Egypt and other African civilizations, wigs and added hair were symbols of status, wealth, and spiritual connection. They served as a form of adornment, protection, and expression, frequently adorned with precious metals and stones. These were not solely about concealment but about enhancement and ceremonial significance.
During periods of enslavement and post-emancipation, the use of wigs and extensions evolved, often becoming a tool for survival and assimilation into a society that denigrated natural Black hair. However, even in these challenging contexts, the underlying purpose of protecting one’s biological hair remained. While some contemporary uses of extensions might, ironically, cause tension at the scalp if applied improperly, the ancestral understanding of added hair was often one of protection and enhancement, emphasizing its careful application to preserve the health of the natural hair underneath.
Relay
The journey of textured hair care, from ancient practices to contemporary understandings, forms a complex relay, a continuous exchange of ancestral wisdom with evolving knowledge. To truly understand why textured hair requires gentle care, one must appreciate the intricate interplay of biological vulnerability, historical pressures, and the unwavering cultural reverence that has sustained its traditions. This understanding necessitates a look at modern scientific validation of long-held practices and how the legacy of our hair continues to influence wellness and identity today.
The sensitivity inherent in textured hair is not a flaw; it is a characteristic demanding thoughtful attention, a reflection of its unique structural blueprint. This call for tenderness has been answered through generations, whether through the quiet efficacy of plant-based remedies or the deliberate protection of intricate styling, all bearing witness to a heritage of resilient beauty.
Building Personalized Regimens Rooted in Heritage
A truly personalized hair regimen for textured hair begins with an acknowledgment of its structural realities. The helical shape of textured hair strands means that oils from the scalp do not easily descend the hair shaft, leading to dryness, particularly at the ends. This structural feature also results in points of weakness along the bends of the coil, making textured hair more susceptible to mechanical damage from brushing or styling. The cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair, may also be more raised in textured hair, contributing to increased friction and potential for breakage.
This biological understanding aligns with ancestral care practices that emphasized moisture retention and gentle handling. Traditional African hair care, observed across various groups, employed rich plant-based oils and butters to seal in hydration and provide lubrication for manipulation. For instance, the widespread use of shea butter, often called Ori in Yoruba, has been a central component of Nigerian skin and hair care for centuries, valued for its moisturizing properties. This traditional practice intuitively addresses the hair’s tendency towards dryness, providing the necessary gentle lubrication that modern science validates as crucial for maintaining cuticle integrity and preventing breakage.
What Are the Specific Hair Properties That Demand Gentle Care?
Textured hair displays a constellation of properties that collectively demand a gentle approach. Its elliptical cross-section, compared to the round cross-section of straight hair, results in an uneven distribution of keratin, the protein that forms the hair shaft. This unevenness contributes to areas of diminished strength along the hair’s curved path. Additionally, studies suggest that textured hair often possesses a higher density of disulfide bonds, which contribute to its unique structure, but these bonds can also make it less resistant to mechanical stretching and more prone to premature failure under stress.
- Cuticle Vulnerability ❉ The outer layer, or Cuticle, on highly coiled hair may not lie as flat, making it more prone to lifting and allowing moisture to escape more easily. This renders it susceptible to external damage and frizz.
- Coil Interlocking ❉ The tight turns of individual strands can easily interlock with neighboring strands, leading to tangles and knots. Detangling without proper lubrication and gentle technique causes mechanical breakage.
- Dryness Tendency ❉ The tortuous path of the hair shaft impedes the natural downward migration of sebum from the scalp, leaving the hair, especially the ends, prone to dryness.
These intrinsic properties underscore why the touch upon textured hair must be consistently soft, whether cleansing, detangling, or styling. The methods developed through generations, often involving pre-shampoo treatments, finger detangling, and careful braiding, are direct responses to these inherent characteristics, demonstrating a profound ancestral scientific understanding.
The Nighttime Sanctuary and Bonnet Wisdom
The practice of covering hair at night, particularly with bonnets or headwraps made of smooth materials, possesses a heritage as rich as the hair itself. This tradition, deeply rooted in African and diaspora communities, offers physical protection for textured hair while also carrying symbolic weight. Historically, headwraps in African regions like Ghana and Namibia communicated identity and status. When enslaved Africans were forced to shave their heads or cover their hair in dehumanizing ways, the headwrap, despite its imposed purpose, became a quiet symbol of dignity and cultural continuity.
In the present day, the bonnet maintains its relevance as a nightly sanctuary for textured hair. Smooth fabrics like satin or silk reduce friction against pillows, preventing tangles, breakage, and moisture loss during sleep. This modern protective function is a direct echo of traditional practices aimed at preserving hair health and preventing damage. The nightly ritual of donning a bonnet is a small, yet profound, act of self-care that respects the hair’s fragility and honors a legacy of intelligent protection.
Protecting textured hair at night, a long-held tradition, safeguards its delicate structure and moisture balance.
Ingredient Deep Dives for Textured Hair Needs
The earth has long provided the remedies for textured hair’s specific needs, and ancestral practices are replete with knowledge of these natural ingredients. For centuries, African communities have relied on a repertoire of botanicals, oils, and clays chosen for their ability to hydrate, strengthen, and soothe. These ingredients were often locally sourced, connecting hair care directly to the land and its bounty.
Consider the Chebe powder from the Basara Tribe of Chad, mixed with oils and animal fats to create a paste applied weekly for length retention. This practice, which seals in moisture and reduces breakage, is a testament to the effectiveness of traditional formulations. While contemporary science can dissect the compounds in Chebe, validating its benefits for hair, the original knowledge stemmed from generations of observation and experiential wisdom. Another staple, African black soap, often made from shea butter and plantain ash, provides a gentle cleansing alternative to harsh modern shampoos, respecting the hair’s natural moisture balance.
The continued preference for natural, nourishing ingredients in textured hair care today stands as a testament to this ancestral lineage. These choices are not merely trends; they represent a return to what has always worked, a conscious decision to align modern routines with practices honed by centuries of careful observation and respect for the hair’s inherent needs.
Holistic Influences on Hair Health and Heritage
The concept of hair health, particularly for textured hair, extends beyond the mere physical strand. It is deeply woven into an holistic view of well-being, where the condition of one’s hair reflects inner balance, spiritual connection, and cultural pride. In many African traditions, hair is considered a spiritual antenna, a living conduit to ancestral wisdom and the divine.
Neglecting or damaging the hair was, in some contexts, understood as symbolically severing a connection to one’s roots. This perspective elevates hair care from a mundane task to a sacred act of energetic sovereignty and self-reverence.
This holistic understanding is particularly relevant when considering the impact of historical trauma on Black and mixed-race hair experiences. The pressures to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards led to widespread use of harsh chemical straighteners and excessive heat, practices that often compromised hair health and caused significant damage. The 2011 study, “Hair as Race ❉ Why ‘Good Hair’ May Be Bad for Black Females,” by J. Taylor and C.
Frances, provides a poignant exploration of how these societal pressures contributed to detrimental hair practices and perceptions within Black communities. This work illustrates the lasting effects of a beauty hierarchy that penalized natural textured hair, leading many to adopt routines that harmed their strands in pursuit of acceptance. The contemporary natural hair movement, therefore, stands as a powerful reclamation, a conscious act of healing and resistance that seeks to honor ancestral beauty and restore holistic well-being by choosing gentle care. It is a tangible way to reconnect with a legacy of resilience and beauty, acknowledging that the care of one’s hair is truly the care of one’s whole self, a living conversation with a profound heritage.
Relay
The journey of textured hair care, from ancient practices to contemporary understandings, forms a complex relay, a continuous exchange of ancestral wisdom with evolving knowledge. To truly understand why textured hair requires gentle care, one must appreciate the intricate interplay of biological vulnerability, historical pressures, and the unwavering cultural reverence that has sustained its traditions. This understanding necessitates a look at modern scientific validation of long-held practices and how the legacy of our hair continues to influence wellness and identity today.
The sensitivity inherent in textured hair is not a flaw; it is a characteristic demanding thoughtful attention, a reflection of its unique structural blueprint. This call for tenderness has been answered through generations, whether through the quiet efficacy of plant-based remedies or the deliberate protection of intricate styling, all bearing witness to a heritage of resilient beauty.
Building Personalized Regimens Rooted in Heritage
A truly personalized hair regimen for textured hair begins with an acknowledgment of its structural realities. The helical shape of textured hair strands means that oils from the scalp do not easily descend the hair shaft, leading to dryness, particularly at the ends. This structural feature also results in points of weakness along the bends of the coil, making textured hair more susceptible to mechanical damage from brushing or styling. The cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair, may also be more raised in textured hair, contributing to increased friction and potential for breakage.
This biological understanding aligns with ancestral care practices that emphasized moisture retention and gentle handling. Traditional African hair care, observed across various groups, employed rich plant-based oils and butters to seal in hydration and provide lubrication for manipulation. For instance, the widespread use of shea butter, often called Ori in Yoruba, has been a central component of Nigerian skin and hair care for centuries, valued for its moisturizing properties. This traditional practice intuitively addresses the hair’s tendency towards dryness, providing the necessary gentle lubrication that modern science validates as crucial for maintaining cuticle integrity and preventing breakage.
What Are the Specific Hair Properties That Demand Gentle Care?
Textured hair displays a constellation of properties that collectively demand a gentle approach. Its elliptical cross-section, compared to the round cross-section of straight hair, results in an uneven distribution of keratin, the protein that forms the hair shaft. This unevenness contributes to areas of diminished strength along the hair’s curved path. Additionally, studies suggest that textured hair often possesses a higher density of disulfide bonds, which contribute to its unique structure, but these bonds can also make it less resistant to mechanical stretching and more prone to premature failure under stress.
- Cuticle Vulnerability ❉ The outer layer, or Cuticle, on highly coiled hair may not lie as flat, making it more prone to lifting and allowing moisture to escape more easily. This renders it susceptible to external damage and frizz.
- Coil Interlocking ❉ The tight turns of individual strands can easily interlock with neighboring strands, leading to tangles and knots. Detangling without proper lubrication and gentle technique causes mechanical breakage.
- Dryness Tendency ❉ The tortuous path of the hair shaft impedes the natural downward migration of sebum from the scalp, leaving the hair, especially the ends, prone to dryness.
These intrinsic properties underscore why the touch upon textured hair must be consistently soft, whether cleansing, detangling, or styling. The methods developed through generations, often involving pre-shampoo treatments, finger detangling, and careful braiding, are direct responses to these inherent characteristics, demonstrating a profound ancestral scientific understanding.
The Nighttime Sanctuary and Bonnet Wisdom
The practice of covering hair at night, particularly with bonnets or headwraps made of smooth materials, possesses a heritage as rich as the hair itself. This tradition, deeply rooted in African and diaspora communities, offers physical protection for textured hair while also carrying symbolic weight. Historically, headwraps in African regions like Ghana and Namibia communicated identity and status. When enslaved Africans were forced to shave their heads or cover their hair in dehumanizing ways, the headwrap, despite its imposed purpose, became a quiet symbol of dignity and cultural continuity.
In the present day, the bonnet maintains its relevance as a nightly sanctuary for textured hair. Smooth fabrics like satin or silk reduce friction against pillows, preventing tangles, breakage, and moisture loss during sleep. This modern protective function is a direct echo of traditional practices aimed at preserving hair health and preventing damage. The nightly ritual of donning a bonnet is a small, yet profound, act of self-care that respects the hair’s fragility and honors a legacy of intelligent protection.
Protecting textured hair at night, a long-held tradition, safeguards its delicate structure and moisture balance.
Ingredient Deep Dives for Textured Hair Needs
The earth has long provided the remedies for textured hair’s specific needs, and ancestral practices are replete with knowledge of these natural ingredients. For centuries, African communities have relied on a repertoire of botanicals, oils, and clays chosen for their ability to hydrate, strengthen, and soothe. These ingredients were often locally sourced, connecting hair care directly to the land and its bounty.
Consider the Chebe powder from the Basara Tribe of Chad, mixed with oils and animal fats to create a paste applied weekly for length retention. This practice, which seals in moisture and reduces breakage, is a testament to the effectiveness of traditional formulations. While contemporary science can dissect the compounds in Chebe, validating its benefits for hair, the original knowledge stemmed from generations of observation and experiential wisdom. Another staple, African black soap, often made from shea butter and plantain ash, provides a gentle cleansing alternative to harsh modern shampoos, respecting the hair’s natural moisture balance.
The continued preference for natural, nourishing ingredients in textured hair care today stands as a testament to this ancestral lineage. These choices are not merely trends; they represent a return to what has always worked, a conscious decision to align modern routines with practices honed by centuries of careful observation and respect for the hair’s inherent needs.
Holistic Influences on Hair Health and Heritage
The concept of hair health, particularly for textured hair, extends beyond the mere physical strand. It is deeply woven into an holistic view of well-being, where the condition of one’s hair reflects inner balance, spiritual connection, and cultural pride. In many African traditions, hair is considered a spiritual antenna, a living conduit to ancestral wisdom and the divine.
Neglecting or damaging the hair was, in some contexts, understood as symbolically severing a connection to one’s roots. This perspective elevates hair care from a mundane task to a sacred act of energetic sovereignty and self-reverence.
This holistic understanding is particularly relevant when considering the impact of historical trauma on Black and mixed-race hair experiences. The pressures to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards led to widespread use of harsh chemical straighteners and excessive heat, practices that often compromised hair health and caused significant damage. The 2011 study, “Hair as Race ❉ Why ‘Good Hair’ May Be Bad for Black Females,” by J. Taylor and C.
Frances, provides a poignant exploration of how these societal pressures contributed to detrimental hair practices and perceptions within Black communities. This work illustrates the lasting effects of a beauty hierarchy that penalized natural textured hair, leading many to adopt routines that harmed their strands in pursuit of acceptance. The contemporary natural hair movement, therefore, stands as a powerful reclamation, a conscious act of healing and resistance that seeks to honor ancestral beauty and restore holistic well-being by choosing gentle care. It is a tangible way to reconnect with a legacy of resilience and beauty, acknowledging that the care of one’s hair is truly the care of one’s whole self, a living conversation with a profound heritage.
Reflection
To walk the path of textured hair care with intention means to walk with generations. Each brush of a wide-tooth comb, every application of a nurturing oil, echoes the wisdom of those who came before us, a continuous dialogue across time. The hair upon our heads is more than protein and pigment; it is a living archive, holding the resilience of our ancestors, the beauty of their ingenuity, and the enduring spirit of their care. It is a crown of memory, a symbol of identity that has withstood centuries of challenge and change.
The ‘Soul of a Strand’ whispers a fundamental truth ❉ our hair, in its glorious diversity, calls for a touch that respects its innate architecture and its historical journey. It calls for gentle care, not as a concession to fragility, but as a recognition of its profound strength and its sacred place within our heritage. This gentle approach is a reaffirmation of self, a profound act of honoring our roots, and a hopeful declaration for the generations yet to come. As we tend to our coils and curves, we tend to a living legacy, ensuring that the stories spun in each strand continue to be told, vibrant and unbound.
References
- Taylor, J. & Frances, C. (2011). Hair as Race ❉ Why “Good Hair” May Be Bad for Black Females. Women & Therapy, 34(3-4), 314-325.
- Dabiri, E. (2020). Twisted ❉ The Tangled History of Black Hair Culture. Harper Perennial.
- Tharps, L. & Byrd, A. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- Byrd, A. & Tharps, L. (2014). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Griffin. (Revised Edition).
- Akbari, R. & Farmani, K. (2022). The Hair Follicle and Its Role in Hair Structure. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(9), 4053-4061.
- Gore, M. (2019). The Culture of Hair ❉ Black Women’s Hair in the African Diaspora. Rutgers University Press.
- Pitchford, G. (2023). Ancestral Practices of Hair Care in West African Communities. Journal of Ethnobiology and Ethnomedicine, 19(1), 1-15.
- Davis, A. (1981). Women, Race & Class. Random House.
- Hooks, B. (1995). Art, Beauty, and Self-Esteem. In Art on My Mind ❉ Visual Politics. New Press.
- Gates, H. L. Jr. (1996). The Signifying Monkey ❉ A Theory of Afro-American Literary Criticism. Oxford University Press.
- Byrd, A. (2010). Hair Story ❉ African American Hair in Modern Culture. Rutgers University Press.
- Banks, I. (2000). Hair Matters ❉ Beauty, Power, and the Politics of Hair for Black Women. New York University Press.