Why do stylists lack textured hair training?

Roots

The question of why stylists often lack training in textured hair is a profound echo of a much older narrative, one woven into the very fabric of identity and belonging. It is a story that speaks not just of skill sets and curricula, but of ancestral practices, cultural reverence, and the enduring power of heritage. For generations, Black and mixed-race communities have nurtured a deep, intuitive understanding of their coils, kinks, and waves, passing down wisdom through touch, observation, and shared experience. These traditions, born of necessity and artistry, provided the bedrock for care, adornment, and the powerful expression of self.

Yet, within the formalized structures of modern cosmetology, this rich legacy often finds itself on the periphery. The silence in many training programs regarding the unique needs of textured hair speaks volumes, reflecting a historical bias that marginalized not only the hair itself but the people who wear it. This historical oversight, a deliberate exclusion of a vast and beautiful segment of the global population, creates a chasm in professional competency.

It is a stark reality that approximately 65% of the global consumer population has textured hair, a significant presence that demands recognition and skilled service.

Foundations of Hair Anatomy and Heritage

To truly comprehend the current landscape, one must look to the very origins of hair science and its often-Eurocentric framing. Hair, at its elemental core, is a protein filament, a wonder of biological architecture. For textured hair, this architecture takes on specific forms, from broad, elliptical cross-sections that create a wavy pattern, to highly flattened, ribbon-like shapes that result in tight coils and kinks. These structural differences affect everything ❉ how moisture travels along the strand, how light reflects, and how the hair responds to manipulation, chemicals, and heat.

Ancestral communities possessed an intimate understanding of these very characteristics, long before modern microscopy. Their methods, passed down through generations, were practical applications of inherited knowledge. For instance, the use of natural butters like shea butter or oils like coconut and argan in African and Latin American traditions speak to a deep, practical understanding of moisture retention for coiled and curly hair. These were not merely cosmetic choices; they were intelligent responses to the hair’s intrinsic needs, honed over centuries.

Historically, the grooming of textured hair was a communal act, a shared ritual that reinforced bonds and transmitted wisdom across ages.

Language and Categorization of Textured Hair

The language we use to describe hair matters, for it shapes perception and practice. For too long, the prevailing lexicon within mainstream cosmetology has been inadequate, often reducing the vast spectrum of textured hair to a singular, undifferentiated category, or worse, describing it with terms that carry negative connotations. This linguistic vacuum reflects a deeper systemic issue ❉ if the language to describe it is absent, how can comprehensive training exist?

• Coily Hair ❉ Characterized by tight, spring-like coils, often densely packed.
• Curly Hair ❉ Forms distinct spirals or ringlets, ranging from loose waves to tighter curls.
• Wavy Hair ❉ Possesses a gentle S-shape, appearing between straight and truly curly.

Beyond these broad classifications, ancestral communities often had nuanced systems of categorization, interwoven with tribal identity, social status, and spiritual beliefs. In pre-colonial African societies, for instance, hair styles themselves communicated a person’s tribe, marital status, or even readiness for battle. This level of detail, a rich tapestry of meaning, contrasts sharply with the generalized approaches common in formal training.

Historical Gaps in Education

The historical trajectory of cosmetology education in the United States, and indeed globally, has largely mirrored a societal preference for straight hair textures. Early cosmetology curricula and licensing examinations, many of which remain in use today or have only recently begun to change, were rooted in practices primarily suited for straight or slightly wavy hair. This created a profound systemic gap.

Consider the curriculum of yesteryear, where mannequin heads, the essential training tools, predominantly featured straight hair. A student could, and often did, complete their training and obtain a license without ever having truly worked with the intricate patterns of coiled or kinky hair. This omission was not accidental; it was a reflection of broader societal biases that deemed textured hair as “difficult” or “unprofessional.”

Even when textbooks began to include mentions of textured hair, the emphasis often shifted to methods for straightening it, rather than celebrating and preserving its natural form. This historical leaning toward alteration rather than appreciation directly undermines the heritage of hair care practices that have long prioritized the health and integrity of textured strands.

Ritual

The ritual of hair care for textured hair has always extended beyond mere aesthetics; it is a profound act of self-care, a communal expression, and a powerful link to ancestral wisdom. When stylists lack training in textured hair, they are not simply missing a technical skill; they are missing an understanding of this deeper, ritualistic significance. This deficit directly impacts the ability to truly serve clients, as it overlooks the emotional, cultural, and historical weight that hair carries within Black and mixed-race communities.

The bias against natural and protective styles has left many individuals feeling denied opportunities based on their hair, with two-thirds of Black women reportedly changing their hairstyles for job interviews.

Echoes of Ancestral Practices in Modern Styling

The techniques and tools used for textured hair today often mirror, consciously or unconsciously, practices from generations past. For example, protective styles like cornrows and braids, far from being modern trends, have deep roots in African traditions, where they served as markers of identity, status, and community. These styles were intricate, requiring immense skill and knowledge, often transmitted from elder to youth.

When contemporary stylists are not equipped to execute such styles with integrity, they sever a connection to this living history. The absence of this training in formal education means that mastery is often left to personal initiative or the informal networks of community. This perpetuates a system where those with textured hair must seek out specialists, creating a segregated salon experience.

The use of tools, too, carries a heritage. Traditional African hair-combs, often carved with symbolic motifs, were not just detangling instruments; they were extensions of hands that nurtured and sculpted. Modern hair tools, while technologically advanced, serve the same fundamental purposes, but their effective use on textured hair requires an understanding of the hair’s unique elasticity, density, and curl pattern, knowledge that is often absent in conventional training.

Protective Styling Through the Ages

Protective styles, which minimize manipulation and protect the hair’s ends, are a cornerstone of textured hair care. Their origins are profoundly cultural, dating back to ancient African societies.

• Braids ❉ From intricate Fulani braids signifying tribal lineage to cornrows used for survival and mapping during the transatlantic slave trade, braids have been both beautiful adornment and a tool of resistance.
• Twists ❉ A simple yet effective protective style, twists have a long history across various African communities, offering versatility and scalp access.
• Locs ❉ Beyond a hairstyle, locs hold spiritual and cultural significance in many traditions, representing a journey and a connection to ancestry.

The historical context of these styles reveals their dual purpose ❉ beauty and preservation. The lack of comprehensive training on these styles in cosmetology schools is a disservice, as it denies stylists the ability to competently perform services that are deeply meaningful to a large client base. Stylists who are taught only to straighten textured hair, without learning to truly work with its natural form, miss an opportunity to engage with a rich cultural legacy.

Modern Styling and Its Historical Reflections

Even seemingly modern techniques have historical echoes. Heat styling, for instance, finds its early roots in the hot comb, a tool adopted by Black women to achieve straightened styles, often as a means to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards imposed during periods of systemic oppression. While today’s tools are safer, the underlying pressure to alter natural texture persists for some, creating a demand for chemical relaxers and thermal reconditioning.

The ability to perform these services safely and effectively on textured hair requires a deep understanding of its protein structure and how it reacts to different chemical and thermal processes. Inadequate training in this area can lead to significant damage, undermining hair health and, by extension, the client’s confidence.

The historical sidelining of textured hair education in mainstream cosmetology reflects a deeper societal bias, marginalizing hair that has long been a symbol of identity and resistance.

The evolution of cosmetology schools, while broadening offerings in some areas, has been slow to integrate comprehensive textured hair education as a core component. This historical inertia contributes directly to the current knowledge gap.

Relay

The transmission of knowledge concerning textured hair, from ancestral wisdom to contemporary professional practice, has not been a smooth relay. Instead, it has been fractured by historical exclusions and systemic biases within formal education systems. The absence of comprehensive textured hair training for stylists is a direct consequence of this interrupted relay, leaving many beauty professionals ill-equipped to serve a significant portion of the population. This disconnect reflects a broader societal devaluation of Black and mixed-race hair, a devaluation that has deep historical roots and tangible present-day impacts.

A 2020 study by Duke University found that Black women with natural hairstyles were perceived as less professional, less competent, and less likely to be recommended for job interviews than candidates with straight hair.

Systemic Foundations of Educational Gaps

The very framework of cosmetology licensing in many states has, until recently, been a major barrier. Licensing exams, often drawing from standards established in the mid-20th century, typically focused on straight hair techniques, implicitly marginalizing textured hair. Schools, understandably, prioritize preparing students to pass these exams, which means textured hair education often became an elective, a supplementary topic, or was barely addressed at all.

This structural issue perpetuates a cycle ❉ if it is not on the test, it is not a primary focus in the curriculum. This has led to a situation where a licensed cosmetologist might never have formally worked with a Black client’s hair during their training, leading to discomfort and, at times, outright refusal of services in salons.

Are Cosmetology School Curricula Evolving?

There are signs of change, spurred by advocacy and legislative action. The Texture Education Collective (TEC), an alliance of beauty industry leaders, is working to influence state cosmetology boards to update licensing requirements. Louisiana, in November 2021, became the first state to mandate textured hair questions on its state cosmetology licensing test.

New York followed in November 2023, with Minnesota and Connecticut joining in May 2024. These legislative victories are significant, compelling schools to integrate textured hair into their core curricula rather than treating it as an afterthought.

Major cosmetology education publishers, such as Pivot Point and Milady, have also begun incorporating textured hair training into their main textbooks, a notable improvement from previous supplemental materials. This shifts the conversation and provides foundational resources for instructors and students alike.

The ongoing movement to mandate textured hair training in cosmetology schools is a vital step toward recognizing the diverse hair types of the global population and addressing historical inequities.

Cultural Competence and Economic Imperatives

The issue extends beyond technical skill to cultural competence. Stylists who understand the historical and social significance of textured hair are better equipped to provide respectful and affirming services. The broader hair discrimination faced by Black and mixed-race individuals in workplaces and schools, often rooted in Eurocentric beauty standards, underscores the critical need for this competence within the beauty industry.

From an economic perspective, the lack of textured hair training is a missed opportunity. The Black hair care industry alone was estimated to be worth $2.51 billion in 2018, with Black women spending significantly more on ethnic-targeted beauty products. Aveda notes that approximately 65% of the U.S.

population has textured hair, signifying a substantial market. Stylists equipped to serve this demographic stand to gain a considerable clientele.

Addressing Historical Bias in Standards

The root of the problem lies in historical cosmetology practical exams, many of which date back to the 1950s and have not been adequately updated to reflect the diversity of hair types. This legacy of oversight has created a system where many stylists, even those with textured hair themselves, may not have received professional training on how to cut, color, style, and chemically treat it.

The Texture Education Collective highlights compelling facts regarding this disparity:

1. Stylist Demand ❉ 75% of stylists express a desire for more training in textured hair.
2. Industry Gap ❉ 66% of BIPOC models in high fashion have encountered hairstylists unable to work with their hair texture.
3. Global Population ❉ A significant 65% of the world’s consumer population has textured hair, representing a market of one billion people.

This data underscores not only a professional need but also a profound societal one. The effort to update cosmetology licensing exams and integrate comprehensive textured hair education is a lengthy and complex process, but it is a vital step towards creating an inclusive and equitable beauty industry that truly honors the heritage of all hair types.

Reflection

The journey to understand why stylists lack textured hair training is a reflection of a larger cultural unfolding. It forces us to confront historical narratives, societal biases, and the deep, often unspoken, connections between hair, identity, and community. The “Soul of a Strand” ethos calls us to see hair not merely as a biological appendage, but as a living archive, each curl and coil holding stories of resilience, creativity, and enduring heritage.

As the landscape of cosmetology education slowly begins to shift, guided by the tireless efforts of advocates and legislative changes, there is a profound sense of return. A return to a holistic understanding of hair, one that acknowledges its ancestral wisdom and honors its diverse manifestations. This change is not simply about adding a few hours of training; it is about rewriting a script, ensuring that every stylist is equipped to see, understand, and celebrate the full spectrum of hair.

It is about fostering an environment where clients with textured hair feel not just seen, but truly valued, their heritage acknowledged and respected in every salon chair. This ongoing evolution is a testament to the power of collective will, ensuring that the legacy of textured hair continues to thrive, unbound and radiant.