Roots
To truly understand why historical views continue to shape the lives and livelihoods of textured hair professionals, we must first trace the vibrant, sometimes fraught, journey of hair itself through the corridors of time. For those whose ancestry reaches back to the continent of Africa, hair is more than mere protein strands; it is a profound cultural statement, a living archive of heritage, and a testament to enduring spirit. In many ancient African societies, hair communicated a person’s identity, their marital status, age, social standing, tribal affiliation, and even spiritual beliefs. Hairdressers were highly respected, their hands weaving not just styles, but meaning, connections, and communal bonds.
Consider the intricate cornrows of West Africa, which could convey messages, and during the transatlantic slave trade, even became silent maps for freedom. Or the Maasai of East Africa, where hair rituals marked life’s passages, symbolizing new stages and reaffirming spiritual ties. Each coil, each braid, each twist held a story, a wisdom passed down through generations.
Historical views influence textured hair professionals by embedding ancestral wisdom while also reflecting centuries of imposed standards and systemic barriers.
Then came the profound rupture of the transatlantic slave trade. The deliberate act of shaving hair upon capture was a calculated move to strip identity, to sever the spiritual and cultural ties so deeply woven into African hair traditions. This was a violent erasure, an attempt to dehumanize and disconnect. Enslaved people, denied access to their traditional tools and nourishing ingredients, saw their hair become matted and damaged, often hidden under scarves.
The imposition of Eurocentric beauty standards began in earnest, linking straighter hair to privilege and survival. This era introduced a painful concept of texturism within the Black community, where kinkier textures were, and in some disheartening ways still are, devalued in favor of looser curls or straight hair.
How Did Enslavement Alter Perceptions of Hair?
The system of slavery twisted the narrative around textured hair. It shifted from being a vibrant symbol of identity and spiritual connection to a marker of perceived inferiority. The “Good Hair” study, for instance, found that natural afro-textured hair continues to be perceived as unprofessional and unattractive by people regardless of their race or gender, a bias rooted deeply in this historical conditioning. (Lukate, cited in Kilburn & Strode, 2021) This historical devaluation laid a troubling foundation for textured hair professionals, forcing them to operate within a system that often subtly or overtly promoted an aesthetic alien to the inherent nature of their clients’ hair.
In the aftermath of emancipation, a new form of pressure arose ❉ the need to assimilate for social and economic opportunities. This led to the widespread use of chemical relaxers and hot combs to straighten hair, further solidifying the Eurocentric ideal. Black women, seeking employment and social acceptance, often felt compelled to alter their natural hair. This era saw the emergence of figures like Madam C.J.
Walker and Annie Turnbo Malone, who, while building empires and providing economic opportunities for Black women, did so within the prevailing context of hair alteration. They created products that catered to the needs of Black hair, yet the societal pressure for straightened styles remained a powerful undercurrent.
Ritual
The legacy of these historical views filters down into the daily rituals and professional practices surrounding textured hair. What began as an intimate act of communal care, often spanning hours and fostering deep bonds, transformed under oppressive systems into a complex negotiation of identity and acceptance. The hands of a textured hair professional today carry not just styling tools, but also the weight of this intricate past.
The journey from ancient care rituals to modern salon practices reveals a profound influence of these historical perceptions. Pre-colonial African hair care involved meticulous washing, oiling, braiding, twisting, and adornment with natural materials like beads and shells. These practices were social occasions, a time for sharing stories and reinforcing community ties. The very act of braiding was a spiritual one, with hair being considered a conduit to the divine.
How Do Historical Beauty Standards Impact Modern Professional Training?
The professional landscape for textured hair artists has long been shaped by standards that historically prioritized straight hair. Beauty schools and cosmetology board regulations often did not adequately address the unique needs and styling techniques for textured hair. Until relatively recently, the curricula in many institutions were rooted in practices and understandings primarily applicable to European hair textures.
This created a knowledge gap, pushing professionals to learn about textured hair through informal channels or self-education. Even after segregation formally ended, many salons and schools continued to cater predominantly to one racial group, perpetuating a divide in expertise and perception.
The Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s sparked a profound shift, with the Afro emerging as a powerful symbol of Black pride and a rejection of Eurocentric beauty norms. Icons like Angela Davis wore their natural hair as a political statement, challenging societal expectations. This period saw a renewed appreciation for cornrows, braids, and locs as expressions of cultural heritage.
The shift in natural hair acceptance, spurred by social movements, has reshaped the market and professional opportunities for textured hair specialists.
The 2000s ushered in a second wave of the natural hair movement, fueled by social media and a growing desire for healthy hair, leading many to abandon chemical relaxers. This movement has created opportunities for Black entrepreneurs and led to a wider availability of products for textured hair.
| Historical Period Pre-Colonial Africa |
| Hair Practices & Societal Views Hair as identity, status, spirituality; communal braiding rituals. |
| Professional Impact on Textured Hair Skilled artisans and respected community members performed hair rituals. |
| Historical Period Slavery & Post-Emancipation (17th-19th Century) |
| Hair Practices & Societal Views Hair stripped as dehumanization; pressure to straighten for survival and assimilation. |
| Professional Impact on Textured Hair Limited professional opportunities for Black hair care outside of domestic settings; emergence of homemade remedies. |
| Historical Period Early 20th Century |
| Hair Practices & Societal Views Increased use of chemical relaxers and hot combs; rise of Black beauty entrepreneurs. |
| Professional Impact on Textured Hair Pioneers like Madam C.J. Walker and Annie Turnbo Malone established beauty schools and product lines, creating economic avenues for Black women. |
| Historical Period Civil Rights Movement (1960s-1970s) |
| Hair Practices & Societal Views Afro as a symbol of Black pride and resistance; rejection of Eurocentric standards. |
| Professional Impact on Textured Hair Growing demand for natural styling; initial challenges to discriminatory practices in workplaces. |
| Historical Period Modern Natural Hair Movement (2000s-Present) |
| Hair Practices & Societal Views Embracing natural texture; CROWN Act legislation; continued push for acceptance and diversity. |
| Professional Impact on Textured Hair Expansion of specialized product lines and services; legislative efforts to combat hair discrimination, creating new professional protections. |
| Historical Period This table illustrates the profound and evolving interaction between broader societal attitudes towards textured hair and the practices, opportunities, and struggles faced by textured hair professionals throughout history. |
The journey has been far from linear. Despite the natural hair movement’s progress, discrimination against natural Black hair persists in workplaces and schools. Policies that ban or restrict natural hair or styles associated with Black people are often rooted in white standards of appearance and perpetuate racist stereotypes. This enduring bias directly impacts textured hair professionals, as their clients may still face social or professional repercussions for wearing their natural hair.
Relay
The impact of historical views on textured hair professionals extends beyond mere aesthetics; it shapes the very ecosystem in which they operate. This legacy influences educational pathways, legal protections, and the ongoing dialogue around hair discrimination, particularly for Black and mixed-race communities. The relay of ancestral knowledge, once intimate and intergenerational, now contends with the echoes of systemic marginalization.
In pre-colonial African societies, the act of hair styling was a significant communal activity, passing down knowledge and solidifying social bonds. Hair was a statement of identity, status, and spirituality. These intricate styles, such as Irun Kiko, a form of thread-wrapping, or various braiding patterns, were not simply decorative.
They carried deep cultural meanings related to femininity, marriage, coming-of-age rites, and spiritual connection. Hairdressers, therefore, were not just stylists; they were custodians of tradition, respected for their skill and their role in communal well-being.
How Do Historical Biases Continue to Shape Professional Cosmetology Standards?
The influence of historical views permeates even the technical and regulatory aspects of the cosmetology profession. Consider the historical segregation of beauty schools and state cosmetology boards. While integration has occurred, the foundational curriculum in many beauty programs has only slowly begun to adapt to the diverse needs of textured hair.
This historical bias means that many professionals, particularly those of African descent, have had to seek specialized training outside of mainstream institutions, often through independent workshops or self-study, to master the nuances of textured hair care and styling. This creates an uneven playing field in professional development and recognition.
The fight for legal recognition of natural hair is a direct consequence of these historical biases. The CROWN Act, for instance, which stands for “Create a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” aims to prohibit discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles. As of July 2024, 25 out of 50 U.S.
states have prohibited such discrimination. This legislative push highlights the persistent reality that historical views on textured hair continue to affect how individuals, including textured hair professionals themselves, are treated in workplaces and educational settings.
The ongoing legislative battle for hair freedom underscores how historical beauty standards still restrict opportunities and professional recognition.
The medical community also bears the imprint of these historical views. Dermatologists, for example, are increasingly recognizing the importance of understanding the history and cultural significance of Black hair to reduce implicit biases and improve patient care. Chemical relaxers, a product of the post-emancipation era’s pressure to conform, have been linked to dermatologic conditions such as traction alopecia and Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia (CCCA), disproportionately affecting Black women. The medical implications of these historical beauty standards underscore a critical need for a holistic, historically informed approach to textured hair care, extending to the training of healthcare professionals.
The legacy of pioneers like Madam C.J. Walker (1867-1919) and Annie Turnbo Malone also illustrates this complex inheritance. Walker, often credited as the first self-made female millionaire in America, developed hair care products specifically for Black women suffering from scalp conditions and hair loss. Her “Walker System” involved scalp preparation, lotions, and hot combs, aimed at promoting healthy hair growth.
Malone, preceding Walker, established Poro College in 1918, becoming the first Black-owned cosmetology school that trained thousands of women in hair care and business skills. While their contributions were revolutionary in creating economic opportunities for Black women, their innovations were often developed within a societal context that still favored straightened hair, highlighting the deep-seated influence of historical beauty ideals.
- Cultural Meaning of Braids ❉ In ancient Africa, braids acted as identifiers for age, tribe, marital status, and social standing.
- Spiritual Significance ❉ Hair was considered a conduit for spiritual interaction with deities in many African cultures.
- Cornrows as Resistance ❉ Enslaved Africans used cornrows to hide rice seeds for survival and to encode escape maps during the transatlantic slave trade.
Reflection
The journey through the historical landscape of textured hair reveals a profound truth ❉ the views of the past are not simply bygone eras; they are living echoes that continue to shape the present reality of textured hair professionals. This journey has not been a gentle stroll; it has been a passage through resilience, oppression, and an enduring quest for self-definition. The “Soul of a Strand” ethos calls us to acknowledge this deep lineage, recognizing that every curl, coil, and wave carries the stories of ancestors, their struggles, their wisdom, and their unwavering spirit. We come to understand that the challenges faced by today’s professionals—from education gaps to ongoing discrimination—are direct descendants of historical narratives that sought to diminish the beauty and inherent value of textured hair.
Yet, within this narrative of constraint lies an equally potent story of enduring heritage, innovation, and reclamation. The professional who cares for textured hair today is not merely styling; they are participating in a timeless ritual, a sacred act of connection that honors a legacy of beauty, strength, and unapologetic identity. In their hands, the threads of the past are rewoven, not to erase what was, but to build a future where every strand stands as a proud declaration of its own vibrant history.
References
- Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- Essel, O. Q. (2022). Conflicting Tensions in Decolonising Proscribed Afrocentric Hair Beauty Culture Standards in Ghanaian Senior High Schools. Journal of Pan African Studies, 15(6), 26-44.
- Patton, T. O. (2006). Hey Girl, Am I More Than My Hair? African American Women and Their Hair. Communication Studies, 57(4), 461-479.
- Walker, A. (2000). On Her Own ❉ The Life and Times of Madam C.J. Walker (Madam C. J. Walker Series). Washington Square Press.
- Omotoso, S. A. (2018). Human Hair ❉ Intrigues and Complications. Journal of Pan African Studies, 12(8), 1+.