# Why Did Textured Hair Straightening Become Common? ❉ Question

**Published:** 2025-06-16
**Author:** Roothea
**Categories:** Question

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![The photograph elegantly frames a woman](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/elegant-woman-with-asymmetrical-bob-hairstyle-black-and-white-portrait.jpg)

![The black and white tone adds a timeless quality to this scene of cultural exchange, inviting contemplation on the ancestral heritage embodied in textured hair, its ongoing evolution within modern beauty standards, and the commitment to its care and creative expression.](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/black-and-white-image-of-textured-hair-stylist-creating-protective-hairstyles.jpg)

## Roots

To journey into the common practice of [hair straightening](/area/hair-straightening/) among those with textured hair, we must first wander back through the corridors of time, where ancestral whispers still linger in the very coil of a strand. It is a story etched not merely in the annals of beauty, but in the deeper chronicles of human experience, cultural survival, and societal pressure. For Black and mixed-race communities, hair has always been more than mere adornment; it is a profound declaration of identity, a living lineage of heritage, and a silent witness to history’s ebb and flow.

The decision to straighten hair, seemingly a simple act of styling, carries layers of meaning, often born from intricate dances between external forces and internal resilience. It is a dialogue that has unfolded over centuries, a testament to adaptation and persistence in a world that frequently sought to diminish that which was inherently, beautifully, different.

Before the transatlantic slave trade cast its long, devastating shadow, hair in African societies communicated an entire lexicon of meaning. Styles spoke of one’s geographic origin, marital status, age, and even spiritual affiliations. Intricate braids, twists, and locs were not just aesthetic choices; they were living archives, telling stories of tribe, wealth, and social rank. Time spent on [hair care](/area/hair-care/) was a cherished communal ritual, fostering bonds and passing down knowledge (BLAM UK CIC, 2022).

This profound connection to hair as a marker of identity was brutally severed by enslavement. Slave traders often shaved the heads of captives, an act intended to strip them of their African identity and humanity (BLAM UK CIC, 2022). The enslaved, disconnected from their traditional tools and practices, often found their hair becoming matted and tangled, leading to it being hidden under scarves (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023). This enforced neglect began a damaging narrative, where tightly coiled hair was pathologized, viewed as “unruly” or “unclean” by European colonizers who classified it as closer to fur or wool than human hair (Halo Collective, 2024).

![Through expressive braiding and adornments, the portrait captures the essence of cultural identity and beauty standards. The monochromatic palette accentuates the intricate details of the braids, symbolic of resilience and the enduring legacy of Black hair traditions and holistic hair care practices](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochrome-portrait-of-a-young-woman-with-braided-hair-and-feathers.jpg)

## Hair Anatomy and Physiology of Textured Hair

The distinct nature of textured hair, particularly coils and kinks, springs from its unique follicular structure. Unlike straight or wavy strands, tightly curled hair often possesses an elliptical cross-section and grows in a helical or spiral pattern directly from a curved follicle. This curvature causes the cuticle layers, the protective scales on the hair shaft, to lie less flat.

The natural bends and turns along the strand also create more points of vulnerability, where the hair is prone to breakage. It is this biological blueprint that gives [textured hair](/area/textured-hair/) its incredible versatility and visual depth, allowing it to defy gravity and hold elaborate styles that other hair types cannot.

Historically, this elemental biology, though not understood in scientific terms, was recognized and celebrated within African ancestral practices. Care rituals were designed to work with the hair’s natural inclinations. Oils and butters, gathered from indigenous plants, were applied to maintain pliability and moisture, compensating for the hair’s natural tendency towards dryness due to its coiled structure limiting the natural oils’ descent down the shaft.

Combs carved from wood or bone, often with wider teeth, were fashioned to navigate the intricate curls without undue stress, reflecting an intuitive understanding of the hair’s need for gentle manipulation (Assendelft, 2023). These tools and practices were not about altering the hair’s fundamental nature, but about enhancing its inherent health and beauty within its natural state.

> Ancestral care practices recognized the unique biology of textured hair, seeking to nourish and work with its natural form rather than alter it.

![This monochromatic portrait exudes timeless elegance, showcasing the beauty of structured hair juxtaposed with soft, coiled patterns. Her poised expression and the satin shirt](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochrome-portrait-elegant-woman-with-coiled-hairstyle-and-satin-shirt.jpg)

## Shifting Classifications and Their Cultural Origins

The forced devaluing of textured hair during slavery established a hierarchy rooted in European beauty standards, creating a societal preference for straighter hair (Halo Collective, 2024). This shift gave rise to terms like “good hair” for straighter textures and “bad hair” for kinkier or curlier ones, reflecting an imposed system of value (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023). This introduced the complex internal dynamic of texturism within Black communities, where proximity to European hair types often correlated with perceived social standing and economic opportunity (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023). 

This historical imposition of a beauty hierarchy helps us comprehend the pervasive influence of external pressures on textured hair styling choices. The drive to straighten hair became, for many, a means of survival and social mobility in a society that penalized natural Afro-textured appearances. It became entangled with the pursuit of acceptance, respectability, and even physical safety (Library of Congress, 2022).

The “comb test,” a stark example, was used post-emancipation to determine access to clubs or churches based on whether one’s hair could be easily combed (WhiteLotusHairStudio, 2022). Similarly, in Apartheid South Africa, “The Pencil Test” classified individuals racially based on whether a pencil stayed in their hair, underscoring hair texture’s role in systems of oppression (Halo Collective, 2024).

- **Tignon Laws** ❉ Enacted in 18th-century New Orleans, these laws forced free Creole women of color to cover their elaborate hairstyles with headwraps, aiming to suppress their visibility and signify their subordinate status to white women (JSTOR Daily, 2019).

- **Comb Test** ❉ A post-emancipation barrier, where an organization might hang a fine-tooth comb, indicating that those whose hair could not be easily combed were not welcome (Halo Collective, 2024).

- **The Pencil Test** ❉ A method used during Apartheid in South Africa to classify individuals racially; if a pencil placed in one’s hair did not fall out when the head was shaken, it indicated a hair texture associated with Blackness (Halo Collective, 2024).
These discriminatory practices reveal the extent to which straightened hair was, for many, a deeply pragmatic decision. It represented a compromise, a shield against overt discrimination, and a pathway to opportunities otherwise denied. This understanding does not diminish the beauty of natural hair, nor does it excuse the systemic racism that necessitated such choices. It simply broadens our perspective on a complex historical reality. 

![The portrait evokes a sense of strength, amplified by the contrast and focused expression. This image stands as a testament to beauty standards celebrating textured hair, a visual exploration of ancestral heritage, and an invitation to embrace unique natural formations](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/portrait-of-a-woman-with-afro-textured-hair-and-contemplative-expression.jpg)

![The monochrome street-style scene with her Tapered Afro symbolizes the modern intersection of textured hair and professionalism. Precise grooming elevates heritage with contemporary style, reflecting confidence and purpose as she navigates the urban landscape](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/elegant-woman-with-natural-textured-hair-and-blazer-crosswalk-street-style.jpg)

## Ritual

The ritual of hair straightening, whether through heat or chemical means, became a profound act within Black communities, not just a simple grooming choice. It evolved from rudimentary methods to a sophisticated industry, each step reflecting societal pressures, economic aspirations, and a complex relationship with heritage. This history is not linear, marked by steady progress, but rather a spiraling dance of adaptation, innovation, and occasional reclamation. The tools and techniques employed speak volumes about resilience and the relentless pursuit of self-expression in the face of imposed standards. 

![This monochrome image captures the beauty of black hair traditions embodied in protective styling. The contrast of light and shadow accentuates the texture of her locs, reflecting both strength and vulnerability](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/striking-portrait-black-woman-protective-hairstyle-locs-textured-hair-beauty.jpg)

## What Did Early Hair Straightening Practices Look Like?

Long before the advent of modern chemical solutions, hair straightening was a laborious and often risky affair, relying on rudimentary heated tools. In the 19th century, some [Black women](/area/black-women/) straightened their hair using metal tools heated on a stove (DHgate, 2023). These early proto-thermal combs were precursors to what would become known as the [hot comb](/area/hot-comb/) or pressing comb.

The practice involved heating a metal comb, often over an open flame or stove, then carefully pulling it through conditioned hair. The distinctive sizzle and smoky aroma often accompanied these Sunday rituals, as families gathered for hair dressing sessions that were as much about communal bonding as they were about styling (Library of Congress, 2022).

The hot comb gained significant popularity, particularly in the early 20th century. While its invention is credited to Frenchman Marcel Grateau in the late 1800s, who developed heated irons to style European hair, its widespread adoption and popularization within the African American community owe much to pioneers like [Annie Turnbo Malone](/area/annie-turnbo-malone/) and her protégé, Madam C.J. Walker (DHgate, 2023), (The Trini Gee, 2023).

Walker, through her innovative marketing and training of “hair culturists,” integrated the hot comb into a comprehensive system of hair care products designed for Black women. Her hot combs, often featuring wider teeth, were used alongside pomades and shampoos to minimize heat damage and promote hair health (The Trini Gee, 2023).

![The black and white portrait showcases the beauty of Afro coiled hair, creating an intimate connection with the viewer. The lighting adds depth to the image, capturing the essence of her texture and heritage, emphasizing the importance of self-expression and natural beauty within beauty standards](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/elegant-portrait-of-a-beautiful-woman-with-natural-afro-hair-style.jpg)

## How Did Hair Straightening Shift from Home to Professional Settings?

The transition from home-based hair rituals to professional salon services marked a significant shift in the cultural landscape of textured hair care. Early Black beauty salons, often extensions of entrepreneurial women’s homes, became vital community hubs. They offered not only styling services but also safe spaces for social interaction, economic opportunity, and the exchange of cultural knowledge (WhiteLotusHairStudio, 2022). 

Annie Turnbo Malone, for example, founded Poro College in 1918 in St. Louis, a premier cosmetology school that trained thousands of Black women not only in hair styling but also in business and marketing skills (TRU-Balance Hair Care, 2025), (Annie Malone and Madam C.J. Walker, 2017). These “Poro agents” spread her products and techniques across the country, creating a network of Black women entrepreneurs.

Madam C.J. Walker’s Lelia College similarly trained “hair culturists,” building an empire that addressed the hair care needs of Black women and offered avenues for economic independence (Annie Malone and Madam C.J. Walker, 2017).

The introduction of chemical relaxers, first developed by Garrett Augustus Morgan in 1909, introduced a more permanent method of straightening (Wikipedia, 2023). These early lye-based formulas provided a lasting alteration to the hair’s structure, allowing for easier maintenance of straight styles (The Commonwealth Times, 2011). While initially marketed to both men and women, relaxers became predominantly used by Black women seeking to conform to dominant [beauty standards](/area/beauty-standards/) (The Commonwealth Times, 2011). 

> The rise of Black-owned beauty enterprises transformed hair straightening into a widespread cultural practice, simultaneously offering economic empowerment and contributing to the perpetuation of Eurocentric beauty ideals.
The prevalence of [chemical relaxers](/area/chemical-relaxers/) grew significantly in the mid-20th century, with companies like Johnson Products introducing innovative formulas, such as the Ultra Sheen No-Base relaxer in 1965, which included a cream to shield the scalp from burns (Hair Relaxers, Cancer Risks and Black Women’s Health, 2024). The widespread adoption of these products meant that, for many generations, relaxed hair became the norm within Black communities, often seen as a necessary step for [social acceptance](/area/social-acceptance/) and professional advancement (The Commonwealth Times, 2011), (Noireônaturel, 2023). 

![This dramatic monochromatic portrait celebrates the striking beauty of an intentional bald style and distinct hair design. The image highlights empowerment, challenging traditional beauty standards and underscoring the impact of textured artistry and individuality in expressing personal identity and cultural narrative](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochrome-portrait-of-a-bald-woman-featuring-a-striking-hair-design.jpg)

![This monochromatic portrait captures a striking woman with intricately sculpted textured hair, celebrating the beauty and artistry of natural hair formations. The elegant style reflects ancestral heritage while embracing contemporary beauty standards, resonating with themes of self-expression and hair wellness](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/elegant-portrait-of-a-woman-with-sculpted-textured-hair-style.jpg)

## Relay

The story of textured hair straightening is a testament to the layered interplay of culture, commerce, and identity, particularly for Black and mixed-race communities. It reveals how practices born of societal pressure became deeply embedded in the fabric of daily life, influencing perceptions of self and opportunity. The journey from [ancestral hair](/area/ancestral-hair/) veneration to widespread straightening reflects not an abandonment of heritage, but a complex navigation of challenging circumstances. 

![The delicate placement of a patterned headwrap upon the girl, shows intergenerational care, and respect for Black hair traditions and beauty standards. This visual conveys ancestral strength, and the beauty of cultural heritage, and the importance of shared wellness practices passed down through generations, defining identity](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/young-girl-receiving-traditional-headwrap-a-black-and-white-portrait.jpg)

## What Were the Socioeconomic Drivers behind Straightening?

The persistent adoption of hair straightening among Black women in the 20th century must be understood through the lens of socioeconomic pressures. Post-emancipation, Black Americans faced immense pressure to assimilate into a Eurocentric society to secure economic opportunities and social acceptance (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023), (Halo Collective, 2024). Straight hair became a visual signifier of respectability, often perceived as more professional and manageable in workplaces dominated by white standards (JSTOR Daily, 2019), (Noireônaturel, 2023). 

Research highlights this stark reality: A 2020 study found that Black women with natural hairstyles are perceived as less professional and are less likely to secure employment compared to Black women with straightened hair (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023). Furthermore, this study revealed that 80% of Black women felt it necessary to alter their hair from its natural state to secure employment and meet workplace expectations (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023). Such findings are not mere statistics; they represent generations of choices made under duress, where livelihood could depend on hair texture. The concept of “good hair” became intertwined with access and upward mobility (WhiteLotusHairStudio, 2022). 

Beyond the workplace, social mobility also played a significant role. The ability to attend certain schools, join specific social groups, or participate in business networks often hinged on conforming to these prevailing beauty norms (Library of Congress, 2022), (Scientific Research Publishing, 2015). Straightening was not always a choice born of personal preference, but rather a strategic adaptation for survival and advancement in a discriminatory society. It became, for many, a necessary step towards self-preservation and social integration (Hair Alteration Practices Amongst Black Women and the Assumption of Self-Hatred, 2016). 

![An exploration of light, shadow, and texture through this study in monochrome reveals a striking contrast. Her platinum blonde coils frame a face, juxtaposed with the sleek, dark turtleneck, inviting contemplation of beauty standards, identity and textured hair](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochromatic-portrait-of-a-woman-with-platinum-blonde-curly-textured-hair.jpg)

## How Does Textured Hair Straightening Connect to Colonial Legacies?

The deep roots of hair straightening within textured hair communities are inextricably linked to the lasting impact of colonialism and slavery. European colonists, in their efforts to dehumanize enslaved Africans, systematically denigrated Afro-textured hair, classifying it as “wool” or “unruly” (Halo Collective, 2024), (Scientific Research Publishing, 2015). This ideological assault laid the groundwork for a beauty hierarchy that privileged features closer to European aesthetics, including straight hair (Halo Collective, 2024). 

This historical violence against Afro-textured hair influenced generations, extending beyond the period of chattel slavery into the post-emancipation era and continuing to this day (Leidenanthropologyblog, 2017). The societal message was clear: proximity to whiteness, physically and aesthetically, provided a perceived advantage. The legacy of colorism and texturism, both born during slavery’s brutal caste system, further reinforced this. Lighter-skinned enslaved individuals with looser curls often received better treatment, creating an internalized preference for these traits within the Black community itself (Halo Collective, 2024). 

The widespread adoption of straightening techniques can thus be seen as a direct consequence of this racialized beauty standard. It represents an adaptive strategy in a world that consistently devalued Blackness. The products and practices that emerged, from the hot comb to chemical relaxers, served as a means to navigate this hostile landscape, offering a semblance of acceptance and lessening the burden of racial discrimination (Legal Defense Fund, 2023). 

> The prevalence of textured hair straightening became an adaptive response to systemic racism, offering a pathway to social and economic opportunities often denied to those with natural hair.
Even with the rise of the “Black Is Beautiful” movement in the 1960s, which celebrated [natural hair](/area/natural-hair/) as a symbol of Black pride and resistance, the social pressure to conform persisted (JSTOR Daily, 2019). While the movement encouraged the embrace of Afros and other Afrocentric styles, the deeply ingrained association of straight hair with professionalism continued to impact grooming decisions (JSTOR Daily, 2019). In fact, the perception that straightened hairstyles were professional was reinforced in workplaces where Black women often had to conform to appearance norms established by whites (Oxford Research Encyclopedia of American History, 2017). 

![The monochrome braided fiber embodies the resilient spirit and intertwined legacies within textured hair communities. The meticulous weave symbolizes the dedication to preserving ancestral techniques, celebrating diverse beauty standards, and fostering holistic self-care practices for healthy textured hair growth](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/braided-white-fiber-close-up-revealing-intricate-texture-and-weave.jpg)

## What Are the Health Implications of Long-Term Straightening Practices?

The long and complex history of [chemical straightening](/area/chemical-straightening/) products also includes a less visible, yet significant, aspect: their potential health consequences. Early relaxers, often lye-based, were known for causing [scalp burns](/area/scalp-burns/) and hair damage (Hair Relaxers, Cancer Risks and Black Women’s Health, 2024). Over time, while formulations aimed to be milder, concerns about the chemicals present in these products have intensified. 

Modern scientific investigations have raised significant concerns regarding the long-term use of chemical straighteners, particularly for Black women who have historically used these products more frequently than other racial groups (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023). A 2023 survey study indicated that Black respondents reported the most frequent use of chemical straighteners compared to other races, with 61% stating they used them because they felt “more beautiful with straight hair” (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023). 

These products contain various chemicals, including parabens and phthalates, which have been associated with potential health risks (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023). For instance, studies have suggested associations with an increased risk of uterine fibroids, early puberty, and certain cancers (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023), (Hair Relaxers, Cancer Risks and Black Women’s Health, 2024). A particularly poignant statistic from a 2020 Sister Study research, published in The International Journal of Cancer, found a higher breast cancer risk linked to any straightener use, with increased frequency correlating to higher risk (Hair Relaxers, Cancer Risks and Black Women’s Health, 2024).

This highlights a tragic dimension of the historical pressure to straighten, where the pursuit of social acceptance may have inadvertently led to health challenges. (Hair Relaxers, Cancer Risks and Black Women’s Health, 2024).

Understanding these health implications brings a solemn layer to the conversation about textured hair straightening. It underscores the profound cost of conforming to beauty standards that were not only culturally alien but potentially physically harmful. The current movement towards natural hair is a response to this historical burden, seeking not only cultural validation but also physical well-being. 

- **Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)** ❉ A powerful alkaline chemical, historically used in “lye relaxers,” highly effective at breaking down hair bonds but also known for its strong caustic properties, capable of causing scalp burns and skin irritation (Wikipedia, 2023).

- **Calcium Hydroxide (No-Lye)** ❉ A slightly milder alkaline compound used in “no-lye relaxers,” often combined with guanidine carbonate, reducing the immediate risk of scalp burns but potentially leaving a calcium buildup on the hair (Wikipedia, 2023), (Hair Relaxers, Cancer Risks and Black Women’s Health, 2024).

- **Phthalates and Parabens** ❉ These are common additives in many cosmetic products, including some hair relaxers, and are under increasing scrutiny for their potential as endocrine disruptors (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023).

![This evocative portrait captures the strength and beauty of Black womanhood, showcasing a contemporary natural hairstyle that respects ancestral heritage and celebrates self-expression. The cropped textured coiffure and defined features become a powerful statement of identity, individuality and confidence](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/striking-portrait-of-a-black-woman-with-short-natural-textured-hair.jpg)

![Bathed in radiant sunlight, these Black and Brown women engage in the practice of styling their diverse textured hair patterns, highlighting ancestral heritage, affirming beauty standards, and demonstrating holistic haircare routines that honor coils, waves, springs, and undulations in a shared setting, reflecting community and self-love.](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/black-and-brown-women-in-sunlight-styling-natural-textured-hair.jpg)

## Reflection

The journey of textured hair straightening, from its ancestral roots in pre-colonial African societies to its commonality in contemporary times, speaks to an enduring human spirit. It is a chronicle of adaptation, resilience, and sometimes, profound compromise. For generations, the choice to alter one’s [hair texture](/area/hair-texture/) became a deeply personal act, often intertwined with societal expectations, economic viability, and the very quest for dignity in a world that sought to impose a singular beauty ideal. This history is not about judgment but about comprehension ❉ grasping the intricate forces that shaped individual and communal decisions. 

Within the heart of Roothea’s “Soul of a Strand” ethos resides a profound reverence for the living archive that is textured hair. Every coil and wave carries stories, not just of biology, but of vibrant cultural practices, of resistance against erasure, and of unwavering self-expression. Understanding the widespread adoption of straightening allows us to see how communities navigated oppressive landscapes, often leveraging the very industries that perpetuated those standards to build wealth and networks within their own spheres.

The Madam C.J. Walkers and [Annie Malone](/area/annie-malone/) Turnbos, by providing products and education, created pathways to economic autonomy, even as their offerings aligned with dominant beauty norms.

Today, as more individuals reclaim and celebrate their natural textures, the legacy of straightening serves as a powerful reminder of how far we have come and how far we still must go. It calls upon us to recognize the historical burdens many carried, the silent battles fought in front of mirrors and in the workplace. This historical perspective invites us to approach [textured hair care](/area/textured-hair-care/) not merely as a cosmetic endeavor, but as a continuation of ancestral wisdom, a conscious act of wellness, and a reaffirmation of identity rooted in a rich and vibrant heritage. It is a story still being written, strand by precious strand. 

![Illuminated by ethereal backlight, the Black woman](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/striking-monochrome-portrait-of-black-woman-with-locs-highlighted-by-backlight.jpg)

![The portrait captures a young girl](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/portrait-of-young-black-girl-with-high-density-afro-and-shadow-play.jpg)

## References

- BLAM UK CIC. (2022). “The History of Black Hair.”

- Hair Alteration Practices Amongst Black Women and the Assumption of Self-Hatred. (2016). Chanel Donaldson.

- Halo Collective. (2024). “End Hair Discrimination.”

- JSTOR Daily. (2019). “How Natural Black Hair at Work Became a Civil Rights Issue.”

- Leidenanthropologyblog. (2017). “‘Hairstyle Politics’: Decolonizing Beauty Standards.”

- Library of Congress. (2022). “Heavy is the Head: Evolution of African Hair in America from the 17th c. to the 20th c.”

- Legal Defense Fund. (2023). “Hair Discrimination FAQ.”

- Noireônaturel. (2023). “The History of Relaxing Frizzy Hair: the Evolution of Hair Standards.”

- Oxford Research Encyclopedia of American History. (2017). “Black Women and Beauty Culture in 20th-Century America.”

- Scientific Research Publishing. (2015). “Rhetoric of Natural Hair: Cultural Contradictions.”

- The Trini Gee. (2023). “Madam CJ Walker & the Hot Comb.”

- TRU-Balance Hair Care. (2025). “Annie Turnbo Malone: Innovator and Educator.”

- What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair. (2023).

- WhiteLotusHairStudio. (2022). “Black Hair History.”

- Wikipedia. (2023). “Relaxer.”

- Hair Relaxers, Cancer Risks and Black Women’s Health. (2024).

- Assendelft. (2023). “Pre-Colonial African Hairstyles: A Journey Through Time and Culture.”

- Annie Malone and Madam C.J. Walker: Pioneers of the African American Beauty Industry. (2017).

- DHgate. (2023). “The Fascinating History of the Invented Hot Comb.”

- The Commonwealth Times. (2011). “The Oppressive Roots of Hair Relaxer.”

## Glossary

### [Hair Relaxers](https://roothea.co/area/hair-relaxers/)

Meaning ❉ Hair Relaxers are chemical preparations designed to permanently alter the natural curl pattern of textured hair.

### [Chemical Straightening Meaning](https://roothea.co/area/chemical-straightening-meaning/)

Meaning ❉ Chemical straightening, within the understanding of textured hair, describes a precise chemical procedure that permanently alters the natural coil or curl pattern of hair fibers.

### [Social Acceptance](https://roothea.co/area/social-acceptance/)

Meaning ❉ Social Acceptance, in the realm of textured hair, signifies the gentle affirmation of one's natural coils, curls, and kinks within diverse societal landscapes.

### [Thermal Hair Straightening](https://roothea.co/area/thermal-hair-straightening/)

Meaning ❉ Thermal Hair Straightening describes the considered process of temporarily re-aligning the natural curl architecture of textured hair using carefully calibrated heated tools, often flat irons or pressing combs.

### [Heat-Free Hair Straightening](https://roothea.co/area/heat-free-hair-straightening/)

Meaning ❉ Heat-Free Hair Straightening refers to techniques that straighten textured hair, particularly for Black and mixed-race hair, without applying direct thermal tools.

### [Thermal Straightening](https://roothea.co/area/thermal-straightening/)

Meaning ❉ Thermal straightening refers to the temporary molecular reconfiguration of textured hair, achieved through the deliberate application of controlled heat to yield a smoother, elongated appearance.

### [Natural Hair](https://roothea.co/area/natural-hair/)

Meaning ❉ Natural Hair describes hair that maintains its original structural configuration, untouched by chemical processes like relaxers, texturizers, or permanent color that alter its natural coil, curl, or wave definition.

### [Chemical Straightening Impacts](https://roothea.co/area/chemical-straightening-impacts/)

Meaning ❉ Chemical Straightening Impacts delineate the lasting structural modifications imparted upon the natural curl pattern of textured hair, particularly for Black and mixed-race hair, through the application of potent chemical agents that permanently alter its disulfide bonds.

### [Heatless Straightening](https://roothea.co/area/heatless-straightening/)

Meaning ❉ Heatless Straightening refers to the artful process of elongating and smoothing textured hair strands into a straightened form without the application of direct thermal styling tools, a practice especially pertinent for preserving the inherent vitality of Black and mixed-race hair.

### [Annie Turnbo Malone](https://roothea.co/area/annie-turnbo-malone/)

Meaning ❉ Annie Turnbo Malone stands as a foundational figure in the comprehension of textured hair, particularly for Black and mixed-race hair types.

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### [Can Traditional Hair Care Methods Prevent Common Textured Hair Issues?](https://roothea.co/question/can-traditional-hair-care-methods-prevent-common-textured-hair-issues/)
![This monochrome still life of citrus remnants suggests the ancestral wisdom in utilizing natural extracts for textured hair. The photograph highlights the potential for holistic, botanical-based formulations to nurture hair](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochrome-still-life-of-citrus-skins-for-textured-hair-care-ingredients.jpg)

### [Why Did Traditional Oils Become Central to Hair Heritage?](https://roothea.co/question/why-did-traditional-oils-become-central-to-hair-heritage/)
![The stark beauty of the monochromatic portrait showcases the Maasai woman’s striking headdress and beaded regalia, symbolizing a powerful connection to ancestral heritage, cultural expression, and the enduring beauty of traditional African adornment reflecting holistic cultural identity.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/portrait-of-maasai-woman-adorned-with-intricate-beaded-headdress-and-jewelry.jpg)

### [In What Ways Did Textured Hair Oiling Become a Symbol of Black Pride?](https://roothea.co/question/in-what-ways-did-textured-hair-oiling-become-a-symbol-of-black-pride/)
![Bathed in radiant sunlight, these Black and Brown women engage in the practice of styling their diverse textured hair patterns, highlighting ancestral heritage, affirming beauty standards, and demonstrating holistic haircare routines that honor coils, waves, springs, and undulations in a shared setting, reflecting community and self-love.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/black-and-brown-women-in-sunlight-styling-natural-textured-hair.jpg)

### [Hair Straightening Chemistry](https://roothea.co/term/hair-straightening-chemistry/)
![This monochromatic portrait exudes timeless elegance, showcasing the beauty of structured hair juxtaposed with soft, coiled patterns. Her poised expression and the satin shirt](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochrome-portrait-elegant-woman-with-coiled-hairstyle-and-satin-shirt.jpg)

### [What Botanical Compounds Soothe Common Textured Scalp Concerns?](https://roothea.co/question/what-botanical-compounds-soothe-common-textured-scalp-concerns/)
![Bathed in soft light, three generations connect with their ancestral past through herbal hair practices, the selection of botanical ingredients echoing traditions of deep nourishment, scalp health, and a celebration of natural texture with love, passed down like cherished family stories.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/three-generations-immersed-in-herbal-hair-care-ritual-by-the-river.jpg)

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                "text": "\nLong before the advent of modern chemical solutions, hair straightening was a laborious and often risky affair, relying on rudimentary heated tools. In the 19th century, some Black women straightened their hair using metal tools heated on a stove (DHgate, 2023). These early proto-thermal combs were precursors to what would become known as the hot comb or pressing comb. The practice involved heating a metal comb, often over an open flame or stove, then carefully pulling it through conditioned hair. The distinctive sizzle and smoky aroma often accompanied these Sunday rituals, as families gathered for hair dressing sessions that were as much about communal bonding as they were about styling (Library of Congress, 2022).\n"
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                "text": "\nThe transition from home-based hair rituals to professional salon services marked a significant shift in the cultural landscape of textured hair care. Early Black beauty salons, often extensions of entrepreneurial women's homes, became vital community hubs. They offered not only styling services but also safe spaces for social interaction, economic opportunity, and the exchange of cultural knowledge (WhiteLotusHairStudio, 2022).\n"
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                "text": "\nThe persistent adoption of hair straightening among Black women in the 20th century must be understood through the lens of socioeconomic pressures. Post-emancipation, Black Americans faced immense pressure to assimilate into a Eurocentric society to secure economic opportunities and social acceptance (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023), (Halo Collective, 2024). Straight hair became a visual signifier of respectability, often perceived as more professional and manageable in workplaces dominated by white standards (JSTOR Daily, 2019), (Noireônaturel, 2023).\n"
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                "text": "\nThe deep roots of hair straightening within textured hair communities are inextricably linked to the lasting impact of colonialism and slavery. European colonists, in their efforts to dehumanize enslaved Africans, systematically denigrated Afro-textured hair, classifying it as \"wool\" or \"unruly\" (Halo Collective, 2024), (Scientific Research Publishing, 2015). This ideological assault laid the groundwork for a beauty hierarchy that privileged features closer to European aesthetics, including straight hair (Halo Collective, 2024).\n"
            }
        },
        {
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            "name": "What Are The Health Implications Of Long-Term Straightening Practices?",
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                "text": "\nThe long and complex history of chemical straightening products also includes a less visible, yet significant, aspect: their potential health consequences. Early relaxers, often lye-based, were known for causing scalp burns and hair damage (Hair Relaxers, Cancer Risks and Black Women's Health, 2024). Over time, while formulations aimed to be milder, concerns about the chemicals present in these products have intensified.\n"
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            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/hair-care/",
            "name": "Hair Care",
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            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/black-women/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Black women, as central figures in textured hair understanding, gently guide the comprehension of coily and kinky strands."
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            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/hot-comb/",
            "name": "Hot Comb",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/hot-comb/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ The hot comb, a heated metal tool, offers a method for smoothing and elongating the natural curl patterns of textured hair, particularly for Black and mixed-race hair types."
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            "description": "Meaning ❉ Annie Turnbo Malone stands as a foundational figure in the comprehension of textured hair, particularly for Black and mixed-race hair types."
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            "name": "Beauty Standards",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/beauty-standards/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Beauty Standards often describe societal ideals dictating what is considered appealing, particularly concerning appearance."
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            "name": "Chemical Relaxers",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/chemical-relaxers/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Chemical Relaxers represent a category of strong alkaline agents, typically lye- or no-lye based, meticulously formulated to permanently reconfigure the natural curl pattern of highly textured hair by breaking and reforming its disulfide bonds within the hair's cortex."
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            "name": "Social Acceptance",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/social-acceptance/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Social Acceptance, in the realm of textured hair, signifies the gentle affirmation of one's natural coils, curls, and kinks within diverse societal landscapes."
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            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/ancestral-hair/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Ancestral Hair refers to the inherited genetic characteristics and structural predispositions of one's hair, particularly significant for individuals with Black or mixed-race heritage."
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            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/natural-hair/",
            "name": "Natural Hair",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/natural-hair/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Natural Hair describes hair that maintains its original structural configuration, untouched by chemical processes like relaxers, texturizers, or permanent color that alter its natural coil, curl, or wave definition."
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            "description": "Meaning ❉ Chemical straightening gently refers to the deliberate transformation of natural curl patterns, a practice often observed within the rich heritage of Black and mixed-race hair communities, through the application of specific chemical compounds."
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            "name": "Scalp Burns",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/scalp-burns/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Scalp burns denote an irritation or injury to the scalp's sensitive surface, a concern holding particular weight within the textured hair community, often arising from chemical applications, such as lye-based relaxers, or the imprecise application of thermal tools."
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            "name": "Hair Relaxers",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/hair-relaxers/",
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            "description": "Meaning ❉ Thermal Hair Straightening describes the considered process of temporarily re-aligning the natural curl architecture of textured hair using carefully calibrated heated tools, often flat irons or pressing combs."
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            "description": "Meaning ❉ Heatless Straightening refers to the artful process of elongating and smoothing textured hair strands into a straightened form without the application of direct thermal styling tools, a practice especially pertinent for preserving the inherent vitality of Black and mixed-race hair."
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---

**Original URL:** https://roothea.co/question/why-did-textured-hair-straightening-become-common/
