Why did textured hair face historical devaluation?

Roots

Feel the whisper of ages, the soft rustle of ancestors tending to their crowns. For countless generations, across vast plains and bustling cities, textured hair stood as a living archive, a sacred scroll of identity, lineage, and spiritual connection. It was sculpted with intention, adorned with reverence, and understood as an extension of the soul itself.

Yet, the question lingers in our collective memory ❉ why did this profound heritage, this innate expression of being, come to face such relentless devaluation? It is a wound etched deep, a legacy born of imposition and misunderstanding, severing connections to a past where coiled strands were revered, not reviled.

To truly comprehend this unraveling, we must first look to the very fiber of who we are, to the elemental biology and historical interpretations of textured hair. Before the shadow of imposed standards stretched across continents, African societies viewed hair with an understanding far removed from mere aesthetics. Hair was a conduit, a visible declaration of one’s place within the community, a reflection of spiritual alignment.

Its intricate patterns spoke of age, marital status, tribal affiliation, and even a person’s standing within their community. (BLAM UK CIC, 2022) This inherent meaning, this interwoven fabric of being and appearance, stood in stark contrast to the emerging European gaze.

The Architecture of Ancestral Strands

Understanding the physical properties of textured hair offers a lens through which to view its later mischaracterization. Human hair, at its elemental level, is a protein filament. What gives textured hair its distinctive form—its beautiful coils, kinks, and waves—is the elliptical shape of the hair follicle and the way keratin proteins arrange themselves. This unique structure, often described as having more points of weakness compared to straight hair due to its twists and turns, was, in fact, an evolutionary marvel.

It provided a natural protective barrier against the sun’s intense rays, allowed for ventilation, and maintained scalp health in diverse climates (Jablonski, 2022). This biological reality was, however, later reframed through a lens of racial hierarchy.

Textured hair, once a revered symbol of identity and spirit, underwent systemic devaluation through imposed standards that disregarded its inherent biological and cultural richness.

Historically, the very language used to describe hair became weaponized. Words like “kinky” and “nappy,” once possibly descriptive of tight curl patterns, were imbued with derogatory connotations during the era of transatlantic enslavement and beyond (Byrd and Tharps, 2014). This linguistic shift served to dehumanize and categorize, establishing a false binary of “good hair” (straight, Eurocentric) versus “bad hair” (textured, African-derived). This insidious racialization of hair was a deliberate mechanism to assert dominance and justify oppression.

Early Classifications and the Distortion of Science

The eighteenth and nineteenth centuries saw the rise of “scientific racism,” a pseudoscientific endeavor that sought to explain and validate European colonial power through purported biological differences (Britannica, 2025). Hair texture, alongside skin color and other physical markers, became a central criterion for these fabricated racial classifications. Thinkers like Carl Linnaeus and Charles White meticulously documented perceived differences, placing European hair at the apex of a fabricated hierarchy (Britannica, 2025). This was not true science; it was an ideological construct, designed to serve a political and economic agenda, specifically to rationalize the enslavement and subjugation of African peoples.

The ramifications of this pseudoscientific categorization extended far beyond academic texts. It filtered into public consciousness, solidifying biases and shaping societal norms. The intrinsic diversity of African hair textures, ranging from loosely curled to tightly coiled, was ignored in favor of a monolithic, devalued stereotype. The rich spectrum of hair types within African communities was flattened into a single, undesirable category, designed to mark people of African descent as inferior.

Ritual

From the very moment African people were forcibly brought across the Middle Passage, a profound severance occurred, not only from land and loved ones but from the very traditions that defined their being. The ritualistic care and styling of textured hair, once a cornerstone of daily life and communal bonding, faced a brutal assault. Slaveholders systematically shaved the heads of their captives, a barbaric act designed to strip them of identity, culture, and any semblance of their former selves (Library of Congress, 2023). This act, so outwardly simple, was in fact a deeply psychological weapon, severing the sacred bond between person and lineage.

Despite this deliberate erasure, the spirit of hair heritage persisted. Enslaved individuals, even under unimaginable cruelty, found clandestine ways to tend to their hair, using whatever meager resources were available. Shared moments of hair care became acts of quiet defiance, a way to reclaim a fragment of dignity and connection.

These gatherings often happened on Sundays, the only day of rest, transforming hair tending into a communal tradition (Library of Congress, 2023). Through hushed conversations and the rhythmic movements of fingers, ancestral practices were kept alive, albeit in altered forms.

The Ancestral Roots of Protective Styling

The rich legacy of African braiding, twisting, and locing traditions did not vanish. These styles, which date back thousands of years in African cultures, served multiple purposes ❉ they conveyed social status, age, marital status, and even tribal affiliation (Afriklens, 2024; BLAM UK CIC, 2022). Beyond their communicative function, these styles were inherently protective, designed to manage and safeguard hair in demanding environments.

• Braids ❉ Originating over 5000 years ago, braids, including cornrows, were not simply styles; they were intricate forms of art and communication. They could indicate a woman’s marital status, fertility, or rank. (BLAM UK CIC, 2022; Afriklens, 2024)
• Twists ❉ Similar to braids, twists offered a gentle method of coiling hair to reduce tangling and promote moisture retention, a practice rooted in ancient African care.
• Locs ❉ Though widely popularized in the 1960s within America, locs have an ancient global history, existing in various cultures as a spiritual or cultural statement (Library of Congress, 2023).

The strategic brilliance of these styles extended to acts of survival. It is widely speculated that some enslaved women braided seeds into their hair, carrying sustenance for escape or to plant in new lands (Salford Students’ Union, 2024). Braided patterns could also conceal maps for freedom, literally charting a path to liberation. This speaks to the profound adaptive capacity and ingenuity within oppressed communities, where hair transformed into a silent, powerful tool of resistance.

What Influenced the Shift Towards Hair Straightening?

As generations passed within the diaspora, particularly in the Americas, external pressures to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards intensified. Laws were enacted to enforce visual markers of subservience. The 1800s saw the implementation of laws in the United States prohibiting Black women from wearing tightly coiled natural hair in public (BLAM UK CIC, 2022; Historical Perspectives on Hair Care, 2025). This institutionalized discrimination created a profound dilemma, linking survival and social acceptance to the alteration of one’s natural hair.

The invention and widespread adoption of tools like the hot comb and chemical relaxers offered a means to achieve the desired straightened look. While these innovations provided Black individuals with a way to navigate a prejudiced society, they often came at a significant cost to hair health and an internal conflict with inherent identity. The push for “good hair,” often defined as straight or loosely curled hair resembling European textures, became a deeply internalized standard within some Black communities (African-American Hair, 2024). This internalization was a direct byproduct of systemic devaluation and the survival strategies employed to cope with it.

The choices made regarding hair became more than personal preference; they were fraught with social and economic implications. For many, altering one’s hair was a necessity for employment or acceptance in educational settings. This pressure highlighted the deep-seated nature of hair discrimination, which continues to shape experiences in the present day.

Relay

The historical devaluation of textured hair, born from the crucible of colonialism and enslavement, did not simply fade with the passage of time. Instead, it relayed through generations, manifesting in various forms of discrimination and self-perception. Yet, within this ongoing struggle, a profound act of defiance has persistently bloomed ❉ the steadfast reclamation of ancestral wisdom and the enduring spirit of self-definition. Our hair, a living extension of our collective story, continues its powerful discourse with the world, challenging imposed narratives and reaffirming its inherent majesty.

Consider the particularly revealing case of the Tignon Laws. Enacted in Spanish colonial Louisiana in 1786 by Governor Esteban Rodríguez Miró, these sumptuary laws mandated that free women of color wear a tignon—a head covering or kerchief—in public (Gould, cited in Klein, 2018; Wikipedia, 2024). The law’s explicit intent was to distinguish these women from white women, who often adorned their hair elaborately, and to visually tie free women of color to enslaved status, marking them as inferior (Wikipedia, 2024; The Tignon Law, 2018). It aimed to curb their perceived elegance and economic success, which challenged the existing social order (Gould, cited in Klein, 2018).

The Tignon Laws, designed to visibly mark free women of color as inferior, instead became an assertion of their creativity and resilience through elaborate headwear.

The response of these women was nothing short of an aesthetic protest. They adhered to the letter of the law but transformed the tignon into a statement of unparalleled beauty and defiance. They crafted their headwraps from luxurious fabrics, adorned them with jewels and feathers, and devised intricate wrapping techniques that drew more attention to their crowns than before (Wikipedia, 2024; The Tignon Law, 2018).

This act, a subtle rebellion, demonstrates a profound truth ❉ the spirit of heritage, when confronted with oppression, often finds novel ways to express itself, turning symbols of shame into emblems of pride and power. The Tignon Law, intended to diminish, instead highlighted the ingenuity and unyielding spirit of a people determined to define their own beauty.

How Did Scientific Racism Undermine Hair’s Valued Heritage?

The enduring devaluation of textured hair also finds deep roots in the pseudo-scientific assertions of the 19th and early 20th centuries. So-called “scientific racism” attempted to legitimize racial hierarchies by measuring and classifying physical attributes, including hair texture, as indicators of intelligence and civility (ResearchGate, 2019; Society for Cultural Anthropology, 2017). This false science asserted that hair texture was a reliable proxy for racial distinctions, placing European hair at the top of a fabricated evolutionary ladder (Britannica, 2025). Such discriminatory categorizations had tangible, devastating impacts.

For instance, in apartheid-era South Africa, the infamous “pencil test” was used to determine a person’s racial classification. If a pencil inserted into a person’s hair remained in place due to its tight coils, they were categorized as “Native” or “Colored,” leading to systemic segregation and discrimination (Jablonski, 2022). This brutal example lays bare how the biological diversity of hair was deliberately weaponized to enforce social control and maintain oppressive systems. It exemplifies the way arbitrary physical traits were assigned immense social and legal weight, solely for the purpose of maintaining a racist social order.

The lingering effects of this historical devaluing are still felt today, influencing perceptions of professionalism, beauty, and even self-worth within the diaspora. Studies continue to reveal the pervasive nature of hair discrimination. Research shows that Black women’s hair is 2.5 times more likely to be perceived as unprofessional in workplace settings (Greene, 2012, cited in Ujima Natural Hair, 2024).

Furthermore, a CROWN 2023 Research Study found that 41% of Black women altered their hair from curly to straight for job interviews, and 54% believed they should have straight hair for such occasions (Ujima Natural Hair, 2024). These statistics are stark reminders of the ongoing impact of historical devaluation, pushing individuals to conform rather than celebrate their ancestral strands.

What Pathways Have Led to Hair Reclamation and Protection?

The narrative of devaluation is powerfully countered by a history of reclamation. The “Black is Beautiful” movement of the 1960s marked a significant turning point, advocating for the celebration of natural hair and challenging Eurocentric beauty norms (African American Registry, 2024; Ujima Natural Hair, 2024). This movement, and subsequent natural hair resurgences in the 2000s, affirmed textured hair as a symbol of cultural pride and resistance, a visible connection to African ancestry (African American Registry, 2024; Ujima Natural Hair, 2024).

Legislation such as the CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair) directly addresses the legacy of hair discrimination. Introduced in 2019 by California State Senator Holly Mitchell, the Act prohibits discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles commonly associated with race, including braids, locs, twists, and Afros (The Crown Act, 2024; NAACP, 2024). As of 2024, many states have adopted this legislation, with ongoing efforts for federal implementation (NAACP, 2024).

The CROWN Act represents a vital step towards dismantling the systemic prejudice that has long undermined the value of textured hair. It signals a societal shift towards recognizing that one’s natural hair is an intrinsic part of racial identity and should not be a barrier to opportunity.

1. African American Barbershops and Salons ❉ Initially serving exclusively white clientele in segregated spaces, Black barbers and beauticians honed their skills. Later, Black-owned establishments became vital community hubs, fostering self-care and cultural expression, moving away from Eurocentric standards (Library of Congress, 2023).
2. Madam C.J. Walker’s Enterprise ❉ A pioneer in the Black haircare market, Madam C.J. Walker built an empire around products like her “Wonderful Hair Grower” and established Poro College to educate Black women on haircare and entrepreneurship. Her work, while sometimes criticized for promoting straightening, provided agency and economic empowerment within the community, offering solutions when mainstream products ignored textured hair (Library of Congress, 2023).
3. Modern Natural Hair Movement ❉ Fueled by social media and a renewed connection to heritage, this movement celebrates the diversity of textured hair. It has led to an explosion of products and educational resources tailored to natural hair, further destigmatizing coils and kinks and asserting diverse beauty ideals.

This historical progression from devaluation to legislative protection and cultural celebration demonstrates the unwavering spirit of textured hair heritage. The journey continues, with each coil and strand contributing to a vibrant narrative of resilience, innovation, and self-love.

Reflection

The echoes of devaluation, once a loud, dissonant chord in the symphony of textured hair, now find themselves challenged by a swelling chorus of affirmation. What was historically dismissed or policed now stands as a powerful testament to survival, creativity, and the enduring connection to ancestral ways. Every twist, every coil, every loc carries within it the spirit of generations—the wisdom of those who tended hair by moonlight, the defiance of those who adorned their tignons with exquisite artistry, and the pride of those who chose to wear their crowns unbound. This living archive, the soul of a strand, continues to write its story, a vibrant narrative of heritage reclaimed and futures reimagined.