Why did relaxers become popular for textured hair?

Roots

For those who carry the stories of textured hair within their very being, tracing the threads of its journey through time is an intimate act of remembrance. Our hair, deeply entwined with ancestry, holds memory—not just of chemical structure and protein bonds, but of sun-drenched rituals, communal adornments, and expressions of identity that predate recorded history. To consider why chemical relaxers took hold within this profound lineage, we must first attune ourselves to the echoes from the source, understanding the elemental biology of textured hair through the lens of those who first cared for it, long before modern innovations arrived.

The popularity of hair relaxers is a complex narrative, one woven from cultural pressures, economic realities, and deeply personal aspirations for acceptance and belonging. It is a story that begins not with a chemical formula, but with the textured strand itself and the societies that celebrated its inherent beauty.

What Does Textured Hair Heritage Reveal About Its Nature?

The inherent architecture of textured hair, often characterized by its elliptical shape and unique curl patterns, sets it apart at a fundamental biological level. This distinct geometry means that the natural oils produced by the scalp, known as sebum, do not travel down the hair shaft as readily as they do on straight hair. Consequently, textured hair often experiences greater dryness, a biological reality that informed centuries of traditional care practices. In ancient African societies, hair was more than just a biological appendage; it was a living chronicle of one’s identity.

Elaborate hairstyles signaled lineage, marital status, age, wealth, and spiritual beliefs. Combs crafted from wood or bone, rich plant-based oils, and carefully concocted herbal mixtures were the tools of ancestral care, designed to nourish, protect, and adorn these crowns of glory. The understanding of hair as a symbol of status and survival, particularly within communities subjected to forced displacement, is a profound element of this heritage. Rice farmers, during the transatlantic slave trade, would braid seeds into their cornrows as a means of survival, carrying agricultural knowledge and future sustenance across brutal voyages.

Hair, in its textured forms, serves as a profound historical record, reflecting centuries of identity, survival, and societal negotiation for individuals of Black and mixed-race heritage.

The very concept of ‘hair’ within African traditions was expansive. It encompassed not just the visible strands, but also the intangible connections to community and spirit. This contrasts sharply with later Eurocentric beauty standards that would equate straightness with manageability and desirability. Early attempts at altering hair texture, though rudimentary, speak to a human desire to shape one’s appearance, whether for aesthetic pleasure or for perceived societal advantage.

Before the advent of harsh chemical relaxers, hot combs, first created in France and popularized by Black entrepreneurs, offered a temporary straightening solution. These tools, heated on stoves, would smooth the hair, albeit often at the cost of burns and discomfort.

Consider the historical record ❉ in pre-colonial African societies, hairstyles conveyed messages. A woman’s braids could signify her marital status in certain cultures, or intricate patterns might denote tribal affiliation. These were not merely stylistic choices; they were living languages.

When considering why relaxers gained prominence, we are not simply looking at a cosmetic choice. We are looking at a response to profound shifts in cultural values and power dynamics, where ancestral wisdom and aesthetic autonomy began to contend with external pressures.

Ritual

The arrival of chemical relaxers marks a significant chapter in the ongoing story of textured hair. This was a period when the deep-seated heritage of Black hair met the unforgiving realities of societal assimilation and racial hierarchy. Chemical relaxers did not simply appear in a vacuum; their rise to prominence was deeply intertwined with the quest for social acceptance and economic opportunity in a world that increasingly devalued Black natural aesthetics. The very act of straightening hair became, for many, a deeply personal ritual, a means of navigating a world that often demanded conformity.

How Did Societal Pressure Shape Hair Choices?

Following the era of slavery and during the Jim Crow period, there was immense pressure on Black individuals to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards. Straight hair was often viewed as “good hair,” a marker of respectability and proximity to whiteness, contrasting sharply with natural, coily hair which was often unfairly labeled as “bad,” “unkempt,” or “unprofessional.”, This discriminatory perception extended to various spheres of life, including employment and education. A 2019 CROWN Research Study found that Black women were 30% more likely than non-Black women to be informed of formal workplace grooming and appearance policies. This statistic underscores the tangible, career-limiting implications that natural hair often carried.

For many, chemically altering their hair was a pragmatic choice, a path to lessen the “battle” that would otherwise have to be fought in spaces of work and public life (Banks, 2000, p. 3-4).

The development of chemical relaxers offered a more permanent and seemingly convenient solution to hair straightening compared to hot combs. Garrett Augustus Morgan Sr. is credited with developing an early chemical relaxer in the early 20th century.

This innovation, initially discovered while working on sewing machine lubricant, showed an ability to loosen curly hair. Soon after, products became commercially available, and by the 1950s, it was quite common for Black women in the United States and Britain to have chemically straightened hair, as this was deemed socially acceptable.

The widespread adoption of chemical relaxers reflected a complex interplay of systemic pressures, perceived social mobility, and the deeply personal desire for acceptance within a dominant Eurocentric beauty paradigm.

The salon became a central site for this transformation. Hair dressing, a skill passed down through generations, evolved to incorporate these new chemical processes. These spaces, often Black-owned, became more than just places for hair styling; they were community hubs, sites of information exchange, and spaces where women navigated the complexities of identity. While some saw relaxers as a capitulation to oppressive standards, for others, it was simply a choice for manageability or a personal aesthetic preference.

It is worth noting that not every woman who chose to relax her hair did so from a place of self-hatred or a desire to emulate white beauty standards; convenience and perceived ease of care were also factors. The industry around relaxers grew significantly, with Black consumers spending nine times more on ethnically-targeted beauty and grooming products than non-Black consumers, reflecting a substantial economic landscape that emerged around these products.

The ritual of the “perm” or “relaxer” application involved precise steps, often accompanied by the stinging sensation that users came to associate with the process. The potent chemicals, typically formulations with high pH, worked by breaking down the disulfide bonds within the hair’s keratin structure, permanently altering its curl pattern. This alteration, while achieving the desired straightness, often came with risks of scalp burns, hair breakage, and long-term damage, a hidden cost borne by many in the pursuit of societal conformity. The products themselves, like those later popularized by companies such as Johnson Products Company, became household names, marketed with promises of “straight,” “smooth,” and “silky” hair, perpetuating a narrow definition of beauty.

How Did Early Commercial Products Alter Hair’s Natural Structure?

The chemical alteration of textured hair by early relaxers targeted the very core of its structure ❉ the disulfide bonds. These bonds are responsible for the hair’s natural curl and strength. The active ingredients in relaxers, commonly lye (sodium hydroxide) or “no-lye” alternatives (like guanidine carbonate or potassium hydroxide), worked to break these bonds, allowing the hair to be reshaped into a straightened form.

This process was irreversible for the treated hair, meaning new growth would maintain its natural texture, necessitating regular “touch-ups” at the roots. This created an ongoing cycle of chemical application, solidifying the relaxer’s place in many women’s hair care regimens.

Relay

The story of relaxers and textured hair is a continuous relay, a transmission of influence and counter-influence across generations and cultural landscapes. Understanding its enduring popularity requires an analysis that extends beyond simple cosmetic trends, delving into the deep currents of identity, power, and the evolution of self-perception within Black and mixed-race communities. This chapter examines the societal structures that amplified the relaxer’s reach, the complex messages it sent, and the shifting tides that, in time, began to challenge its dominance.

What Socio-Economic Pressures Fueled Relaxer Popularity?

The socio-economic realities of the 20th century played a substantial part in the widespread adoption of relaxers. For Black women, appearance often directly correlated with opportunities for advancement in a racially stratified society. Straight hair was often a prerequisite for employment, particularly in professional settings, and was associated with an elevated social class.

In fact, 80% of Black women reported believing it necessary to alter their natural hair to secure employment and meet workplace social expectations, with Black women being 1.5 times more likely to be sent home from work because of their hairstyle. This is not simply anecdotal; it speaks to a systemic pressure deeply embedded in the fabric of society.

The beauty industry, recognizing this profound need, actively marketed relaxers to Black consumers, using advertisements that showcased straight, smooth, and silky hair as the ideal. This sustained visual reinforcement, coupled with the societal advantages perceived, normalized chemical straightening to an extraordinary degree. At its peak, relaxer use was remarkably widespread. Studies in the late 2000s indicated that between 70% and 80% of Black women in the United States had chemically straightened their hair at some point.

The product became a rite of passage for many young Black girls, a symbolic step into womanhood that mirrored the prevalent beauty standards. (Byrd & Tharps, 2001, p. 137-152)

This economic engine was powerful. The hair care market for African Americans alone was valued at $185 million in the early 20th century. While Black entrepreneurs like Madam C.J.

Walker built fortunes, the mainstream beauty industry, often white-owned, eventually capitalized heavily on this demand, sometimes at the expense of Black-owned businesses. This history points to a complex economic landscape where demand, driven by societal pressure, was met by an industry that both served and, in some ways, perpetuated Eurocentric beauty ideals.

The conversation around relaxers has also deeply intertwined with notions of identity. For decades, the “good hair” versus “bad hair” dichotomy created internal tensions within the Black community. Those with looser curls or straightened hair were often seen as having “good hair,” while kinky, coily textures were labeled “bad.” This internal bias, a byproduct of external racial oppression, added another layer to the decision-making process around relaxers. However, it is an oversimplification to state that all relaxer use stemmed from self-hatred; for many, it was a practical choice, a matter of convenience, or simply a preferred aesthetic.

What are the Health Implications of Long-Term Relaxer Use?

Recent research has brought to light serious health concerns associated with long-term relaxer use, altering the narrative around their popularity. Studies have shown connections between chemical relaxers and increased risks of certain health conditions, notably in women of African descent who have historically been the primary consumers. For instance, frequent and prolonged use of lye-based hair straightening products has been associated with an increased risk of estrogen receptor-positive breast cancer. A study from Boston University’s Black Women’s Health Study, following 59,000 self-identified African American women for over 25 years, found that those who used lye-based relaxers at least seven times a year for 15 or more years had an approximately 30% increased risk of this type of breast cancer compared to less frequent users.

Furthermore, in 2017, Black women surpassed White women in the incidence of endometrial cancer in the United States, with chemical relaxers being identified as a possible contributing factor. These products contain chemicals like sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, or potassium hydroxide, which can interfere with hormone function.

The rising awareness of these health implications has contributed significantly to a decline in relaxer sales in Western markets over the past decade. Between 2012 and 2017, for instance, sales of hair relaxers fell by 38% in the US, correlating with the rise of the natural hair movement. However, the global picture remains complex, with relaxer sales reportedly increasing in some African countries, highlighting the ongoing, interconnected challenges of beauty standards, health awareness, and market access on an international scale.

The return to natural hair, often marked by the “big chop” where previously relaxed hair is cut off, has become a powerful statement of self-acceptance and a reclamation of cultural identity. This movement seeks to challenge Eurocentric beauty standards and celebrate the inherent beauty of textured hair. While it signifies a shift in personal choice, the historical context of relaxer popularity, deeply rooted in centuries of societal pressures and economic realities, remains a vital part of understanding the heritage of Black hair.

1. Societal Expectation A pervasive belief that straight hair equated to professionalism and social acceptance.
2. Economic Opportunity The perception, and often reality, that natural hair could limit employment prospects and career growth.
3. Media Portrayal Dominant media continually showcased Eurocentric beauty ideals, rarely featuring natural Black hair in a positive light.
4. Perceived Manageability For many, relaxed hair was considered easier to style and maintain on a daily basis.

Reflection

The narrative of relaxers, their rise, and their recent reconsideration, forms a profound chapter in the enduring story of textured hair. It is a testament to the resilience of heritage, a poignant reminder that hair, a seemingly simple aspect of our physical form, carries the weight of history, the whispers of ancestors, and the aspirations of generations. The popularity of chemical relaxers, while undeniably influenced by oppressive beauty standards that devalued natural textures, also speaks to the ingenuity and adaptability of communities seeking agency and beauty within challenging circumstances. This complex legacy calls us to a deeper appreciation for the choices made by those who walked before us, understanding their motivations not through a lens of judgment, but of empathy and historical context.

For Roothea, ‘Soul of a Strand’ means recognizing that every curl, every coil, every historical choice, contributes to a living archive of wisdom and strength. The journey from elemental biology to societal influence, and now to a reawakening of ancestral textures, is a continuum. It reminds us that care for textured hair extends beyond product application; it is an act of honoring heritage, a dialogue between the past and the present.

As we collectively re-examine beauty norms and celebrate the diverse expressions of textured hair, we carry forward the knowledge gained, not only from scientific discoveries about hair health, but also from the profound, lived experiences of those who navigated a world that often sought to dictate their appearance. This ongoing conversation, rooted in respect and understanding, helps us cultivate a future where the authentic beauty of every strand is unequivocally celebrated.