Roots
For those of us whose hair forms patterns like spiraling galaxy arms or the gentle waves of a flowing river, the question of ancestral care resonates deeply. Our hair, whether it coils tightly, undulates softly, or springs in exuberant curls, carries the imprint of generations. It is a biological marvel, certainly, with its unique follicular shape dictating the degree of curl and twist. But it is also a cultural archive, a repository of practices, beliefs, and an enduring connection to the earth and its offerings.
The ancestral peoples understood this inherent difference, recognizing the distinct needs of hair that presented a greater surface area, a more open cuticle, and a tendency toward dryness, a natural characteristic of its very design. They sought solutions not in synthetic concoctions, but within the abundant generosity of their immediate environments.
The Anatomy of Textured Hair
Each individual strand of textured hair holds a story, its architecture speaking to centuries of adaptation. Unlike straight hair, which typically emerges from a round follicle, textured hair springs forth from an oval or elliptical follicle. This shape causes the keratin proteins within the hair shaft to be distributed unevenly, creating points of tension and curvature. The outer layer, the cuticle , composed of overlapping scales, often sits more open or raised in textured hair compared to straight hair.
This openness, while contributing to a magnificent volume and spring, also allows moisture to escape more readily, making textured hair prone to dryness. The internal cortex , which provides strength and elasticity, is also arranged uniquely, influencing how external substances penetrate and interact. Ancestral healers and caregivers, through observation over countless generations, perceived this inherent thirst and structural vulnerability. They saw hair that needed shielding, nourishing, and lubrication.
What Does Hair Porosity Tell Us about Heritage?
The concept of hair porosity, though a modern scientific term, finds its practical roots in ancestral understanding. Hair with a more open cuticle, often termed high porosity hair, absorbs moisture quickly but loses it just as swiftly. Lower porosity hair, with its tightly bound cuticles, takes longer to wet but retains moisture for longer periods. Ancestors, without laboratories, discerned these behaviors.
They recognized the need for substances that could either seal the cuticle against the elements or penetrate its layers to deliver sustenance. They learned that a denser, more coily strand often benefited from thicker, richer applications, while looser textures might call for lighter oils. This wisdom, passed down through the generations, was the earliest form of personalized hair care, deeply tied to communal knowledge and environmental rhythms.
Ancestral wisdom intuitively understood the unique architecture of textured hair, particularly its propensity for dryness, guiding their choice of oils.
The indigenous peoples of the Americas, for instance, used a variety of natural ingredients. Native American tribes employed yucca root for cleansing and aloe vera, sage, and cedarwood oil for their conditioning benefits. In Latin America, civilizations such as the Mayans and Aztecs also practiced their hair care rituals using aloe vera, avocado, coconut, and argan oil. These historical practices demonstrate a profound connection to the local ecosystem and a keen observation of plant properties.
Ritual
Beyond the simple act of application, ancestral oils were woven into daily and ceremonial rituals, elevating hair care to a communal, often spiritual, practice. These routines were not about quick fixes; they were acts of reverence, patience, and connection, deeply embedded in the rhythm of life. The careful selection of oils, their preparation, and their systematic application formed a profound dialogue between the individual, their community, and the earth from which these nourishing elixirs sprung.
What Role Did Oils Play in Protective Styling Heritage?
Consider the heritage of protective styling. Across African societies and throughout the diaspora, styles like cornrows, braids, and twists served multifaceted purposes: practicality, social demarcation, and spiritual connection. These styles, designed to minimize manipulation and protect the hair strands from environmental stress, inherently required lubrication. Oils provided the necessary slip for detangling and braiding, reducing breakage during the styling process.
More critically, they sealed the hair within the protective style, preventing moisture loss over extended periods. Without these emollients, the hair would become brittle, dry, and prone to damage. The use of oils in conjunction with protective styles enabled length retention, a significant aspect for cultures where long, healthy hair held symbolic power. This co-dependence of oil and style demonstrates a sophisticated understanding of hair mechanics, long before modern science articulated it.
Ancestral Oiling Practices across Continents
The practice of hair oiling transcends geographic boundaries, each region adapting its rituals to local flora and climate. In West African traditions, oils and butters were used to keep hair moisturized in hot, dry climates, often paired with protective styles to maintain length and health. Shea butter, derived from the Vitellaria paradoxa tree, for example, has been a staple in African communities for centuries, revered for its moisturizing and protective properties. Its ability to soften, add sheen, and shield hair from harsh environmental conditions made it a cornerstone of care.
Similarly, in other indigenous communities, various animal fats and plant oils were used, not just for aesthetic appeal, but for their functional benefits of hydration and protection. The Huron and Sauk tribes, among others in Native American communities, used bear grease as a prized pomade, valuing its grooming properties and its cultural significance.
The application of ancestral oils was an integral part of protective styling, preserving hair integrity and supporting length retention within cultural contexts.
The communal aspect of hair care, where mothers, daughters, and friends gathered to braid and oil hair, reinforced social bonds and passed down this generational wisdom. It was a time for storytelling, for sharing advice, and for affirming identity. The oils, then, were not just substances; they were conduits of tradition, carriers of community spirit, and agents of cultural continuity.
- Shea Butter ❉ Extracted from the nuts of the sacred Shea tree, this butter was used extensively across West Africa to moisturize and protect hair from harsh environmental conditions. Its rich fatty acid content provides a natural barrier against moisture loss.
- Coconut Oil ❉ Prevalent in tropical regions, this oil was applied for deep conditioning and to reduce protein loss, offering significant hydration for thicker hair textures.
- Castor Oil ❉ Known for its thick consistency, particularly in Caribbean traditions, it was used to seal in moisture and promote hair growth, strengthening strands.
- Argan Oil ❉ From Moroccan argan trees, this lightweight oil provided sheen, softness, and reduced frizz for a variety of hair types, particularly those with finer curl patterns.
- Baobab Oil ❉ Extracted from the “Tree of Life” seeds, this oil was used in Africa to revitalize and restore vitality, rich in antioxidants and fatty acids beneficial for strengthening hair.
Relay
The wisdom of ancestral care for textured hair is not merely a collection of historical anecdotes; it is a living, breathing lineage that continues to inform and inspire modern approaches. The “Why” behind their practices speaks to an intuitive understanding of hair biology that contemporary science now often affirms. The effectiveness of ancestral oils on textured hair structures stemmed from their specific chemical compositions and how these properties addressed the hair’s inherent needs: its tendency towards dryness, its susceptibility to breakage at the curves of the strand, and the protective requirements of its open cuticle.
How Do Oils Physically Interact with Textured Hair?
Textured hair, with its unique morphology of waves and twists, presents areas of varying density along the hair shaft. This characteristic influences how external molecules, like oils, diffuse. A study published in the journal Cosmetics by Brazilian researchers, using Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization Time-of-Flight Mass Spectrometry (MALDI-TOF MS), found that oils such as coconut, avocado, and argan do penetrate textured hair fibers. However, the study noted that this penetration is not always uniform due to the cortical arrangement of textured hair, where certain regions (orthocortex) might absorb oils more readily than others (paracortex).
Despite this variability, the presence of oil molecules within the cortex, as observed with argan oil showing higher intensity, indicates a level of interaction beyond merely coating the surface. This ability to move beyond the cuticle is vital for true conditioning and protection.
The molecular structure of ancestral oils played a crucial part in their suitability. Oils with smaller molecular sizes and particular fatty acid compositions could penetrate the hair shaft more effectively. For instance, coconut oil , rich in lauric acid, possesses a molecular structure small enough to allow it to penetrate the hair shaft, reducing protein loss and enhancing moisture retention. This ability to penetrate deeply makes it a powerful conditioner, particularly beneficial for thick or coarse textured hair.
Similarly, olive oil , abundant in mono-unsaturated fatty acids and squalene, effectively hydrates and helps repair damaged strands by permeating the fiber. These oils do not just sit on the surface; they interact with the internal structure of the hair.
What Scientific Principles Support Ancestral Oiling?
The benefits observed by ancestors find grounding in modern scientific understanding. Beyond penetration, many ancestral oils provided critical lubrication, shielding, and antimicrobial properties for scalp health. The naturally occurring sebum produced by the scalp, which conditions hair and prevents moisture loss, struggles to travel down the curves and twists of textured hair strands as effectively as it would on straight hair.
Oils supplemented this natural lubrication, ensuring the entire strand received protection. This external application helped to flatten the cuticle scales, creating a smoother surface, which in turn minimized moisture loss and reduced frizz.
Moreover, ancestral oils often possessed properties that promoted scalp wellness, a critical aspect of overall hair health. For example, castor oil, beyond its sealing properties, contains ricinoleic acid, which is known for nourishing the scalp and strengthening hair. Other traditional ingredients, like tea tree oil (often infused into a carrier oil), are recognized for their antimicrobial properties.
The Himba tribe in Namibia, for instance, used a mixture of clay and cow fat, which served as protection from the sun and aided in detangling. This speaks to a holistic approach, where hair health was inseparable from scalp health and environmental protection.
Ancestral oils, through their unique molecular structures, offered textured hair essential lubrication, cuticle sealing, and penetration, addressing its inherent thirst and structural requirements.
The legacy of using oils to maintain moisture is particularly significant for textured hair, which is prone to dryness and breakage. Jeanette Nkwate, Content, Community, and Comms Manager for British Black hair brand Afrocenchix, states, “Many of us have fond memories of sitting between our mother’s, grandmother’s or auntie’s legs as she delicately applied oil to our scalps. This ritual has roots back in Africa and using scalp oils is culturally important for many reasons.” This communal practice, passed down through generations, highlights the deeply embedded nature of oiling in the heritage of Black hair care.
A compelling historical example of ancestral oil use, born from necessity and resourcefulness during a period of extreme adversity, comes from the era of chattel slavery. Enslaved Africans, forcibly removed from their traditional environments and sophisticated hair care practices that included indigenous oils and herbs, had to adapt. Without access to their customary palm oils, they resorted to readily available substances such as cooking oil , animal fats , and butter to condition, soften, and add sheen to their hair. These makeshift emollients, though damaging in the long run due to a lack of proper cleansing, were acts of survival and resistance, aimed at maintaining a semblance of dignity and hair health under inhumane conditions.
They helped to protect hair and scalps from the brutal sun and mitigated issues like skin infections and pests. This adaptation, using what was at hand, underscores the deep-seated understanding of their hair’s need for lubrication and protection, even when their traditional resources were denied. (Byrd & Tharps, 2001, p. 30)
Reflection
The journey through ancestral oils and their enduring suitability for textured hair structures leads us to a singular understanding: the relationship between hair, heritage, and care is one of profound reciprocity. Our ancestors, with an acuity honed by generations of observation and a deep connection to their environments, did not merely use oils; they engaged in a dialogue with nature, listening to the needs of their hair and responding with wisdom. These practices, rooted in the elemental biology of the strand and the lived experiences of communities, transcend simple beauty rituals.
The textures that spring from our scalps are not anomalies; they are magnificent expressions of human diversity, each coil and curve a testament to resilience. The oils chosen through centuries of trial and collective knowledge ❉ shea butter from the savanna, coconut oil from coastal lands, castor oil from resilient plants ❉ were perfect partners for these hair structures. They combatted dryness, provided protective shields against harsh climates, and offered the lubrication necessary for intricate styling that itself became a hallmark of identity and social meaning.
This ancestral relationship with oils underscores a truth that Roothea seeks to illuminate: care for textured hair is never divorced from its deep, resonant heritage. It is a continuous conversation, a living archive of wisdom passed from hand to hand, generation to generation, ensuring that the soul of each strand remains honored, nourished, and vibrantly alive.
References
- Byrd, A. & Tharps, L. (2001). Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- Nkwate, J. (2022, April 14). Are We Really Not Supposed To Use Oils On Natural Hair?. Refinery29.
- Ribeiro, C. V. et al. (2025). Study Reveals Differences in Vegetable Oil Penetration Between Textured and Straight Hair Types. Cosmetics Design.
- Sharma, H. & Gupta, C. (2020). Hair Oils: Indigenous Knowledge Revisited. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 13(10), 45 ❉ 48.
- Fernandez, M. (2025, March 21). I tried 7 Caribbean heritage braid styles this spring. here’s what finally helped my hair survive the island humidity.