Which states have adopted CROWN legislation to protect textured hair heritage?

Roots

The very strands that crown our heads carry silent chronicles, echoes from distant lands and ancestral hands. For Black and mixed-race individuals, hair is far more than a simple biological outgrowth; it forms a living archive, each coil and curve a testament to a heritage deeply woven with resilience, creativity, and identity. This innate connection, however, has long been a site of contention, policed and judged by standards alien to its natural glory.

It is from this enduring truth that the CROWN Act, a contemporary shield for ancient truths, springs forth. Its very existence acknowledges a profound historical wrong, seeking to safeguard the right to wear one’s hair as it naturally grows, or in styles passed down through generations, without fear of sanction in schools or workplaces.

The journey of textured hair through history is a saga of adaptation, survival, and profound cultural expression. In pre-colonial African societies, hair styling served as a complex visual language. A person’s coiffure could speak volumes about their community, marital status, age, or even spiritual standing. Hair was not just adorned; it was revered, often connected to the divine, believed to be the closest point of contact with higher realms.

Care rituals were communal, creating spaces for storytelling, shared wisdom, and strengthening social bonds. Such practices were not merely cosmetic; they were deeply integral to societal structure and personal identity. The act of braiding, for instance, became a rite of passage, a transfer of generational wisdom as stories were shared, histories recited, and techniques perfected across laps and through whispered instruction (Byrd & Tharps, 2001).

This reverence suffered a shattering blow with the transatlantic slave trade. Upon arrival in the Americas, enslaved Africans often had their heads shaved, a brutal act of cultural erasure designed to sever ties to their identity and heritage. Yet, even in the crucible of enslavement, the spirit of textured hair persisted. Headwraps became a form of protection, both physically and culturally, evolving into expressions of regional style and silent defiance.

Later, as the constraints of bondage shifted, so did the means of expression. The emergence of the “good hair” concept, which valorized hair with straighter textures, marked a tragic internalization of Eurocentric beauty ideals, compelling many to resort to harsh chemical straighteners to attain acceptance in a dominant society that often perceived natural Black hair as “unprofessional” or “unkempt”. This painful legacy underscores the urgent need for legal protections, a historical wound the CROWN Act endeavors to address.

The CROWN Act stands as a modern affirmation of an ancient heritage, recognizing textured hair as a fundamental aspect of racial identity and cultural expression.

Hair Anatomy and Its Ancestral Understanding

To truly appreciate the CROWN Act’s significance, one must peer into the unique biology of textured hair, a marvel of natural design. Unlike straight hair, which typically grows from a round follicle, highly coiled or kinky hair emerges from an oval-shaped follicle. This elliptical shape influences the hair shaft’s cross-section, which is also elliptical or ribbon-like, rather than circular.

The helical structure of the hair strand itself, with its frequent bends and twists, contributes to its magnificent volume and unique aesthetic qualities. However, these very characteristics also render it more susceptible to dryness and breakage, as the twists create points where the cuticle can lift, leading to moisture loss and tangles (Dabiri, 2019).

From an ancestral view, understanding hair was often experiential and passed through observation. Communities instinctively grasped the need for moisture and protective styling. Early African care practices, often rooted in herbal knowledge and natural ingredients, mirrored an intuitive scientific understanding. The use of rich butters, oils, and plant-based concoctions was not simply about appearance; it was about maintaining the health and vitality of the hair in demanding climates.

The very architecture of textured hair, some scholars propose, may have served as an evolutionary adaptation, protecting the scalp from intense ultraviolet radiation while also facilitating air circulation, providing a natural cooling system. This deep, inherent wisdom about the hair’s needs, developed over millennia, contrasts sharply with the later imposition of alien standards.

Expanding the Lexicon of Textured Hair

The language we use to describe hair itself can be laden with historical biases. Terms like “nappy,” once a derogatory label, have been reclaimed by the natural hair movement as a testament to pride and self-acceptance. The CROWN Act directly counters this legacy of negative framing by explicitly protecting a range of styles historically targeted by discrimination.

• Locs ❉ These distinct strands of hair form when sections of hair are matted or braided and left to grow and intertwine, embodying spiritual and cultural significance across many African and diasporic communities.
• Braids ❉ A versatile and ancient art form, braids involve interweaving three or more strands of hair, with styles ranging from tight cornrows to flowing box braids, each carrying unique cultural narratives.
• Twists ❉ Achieved by coiling two strands of hair around each other, twists offer a gentler protective style that minimizes manipulation and showcases natural texture.
• Bantu Knots ❉ A traditional African hairstyle where sections of hair are twisted into tight, coiled buns, these knots serve as both a style and a method for stretching or setting the hair.
• Afros ❉ A powerful symbol of Black pride and liberation, the afro celebrates the natural volume and shape of tightly coiled hair, allowing it to expand freely from the scalp.

These terms, now enshrined in legislation in certain states, are more than mere descriptors; they represent a reclamation of identity, a formal recognition of the beauty and dignity inherent in Black and mixed-race hair. The legal acknowledgment of these specific styles, in essence, provides a shield against the historical weaponization of Eurocentric beauty norms against hair that defies them.

Ritual

The passage of CROWN legislation across various states marks a significant, yet still unfolding, chapter in the ongoing narrative of textured hair. This legal framework, far from being a dry decree, acts as a protective canopy under which the rich rituals of textured hair styling and care can flourish without external prejudice. Consider the deep cultural significance of protective styles, techniques passed down through generations.

These are not merely fashion choices; they are a tender preservation of natural hair, shielding it from manipulation and environmental stress while simultaneously expressing identity and connection to heritage. The CROWN Act’s presence on the statute books means that the ancestral wisdom embedded in these styles, once a target for suppression, now gains a measure of legal sanctity.

The daily decisions about hair, from a child’s first cornrows to an adult’s choice of locs for a job interview, become less fraught with the anxiety of societal judgment. The law creates space for authentic self-expression, allowing individuals to honor their lineage through their appearance. This shift in the legal landscape influences everything from the schoolyard to the boardroom, transforming spaces where textured hair was once deemed “unprofessional” into environments where its unique beauty and cultural resonance are increasingly recognized as valid expressions of self. The battle for this recognition is not new; it has been a continuous struggle against deeply embedded biases.

Protective styling, an ancestral practice for hair health and expression, gains vital protection through CROWN legislation.

How Do Ancestral Hair Practices Inform Modern Styling Choices?

The historical practices of hair care and styling for textured hair are inherently protective. Ancient African civilizations utilized elaborate braiding patterns not just for aesthetics but also to maintain scalp health and minimize damage. The intricate patterns found on sculptures from the Kingdom of Benin, for example, often depict individuals with meticulously braided or coiled hairstyles, illustrating a profound connection between hair, status, and wellness.

These traditions, born from necessity and a deep understanding of natural hair’s properties, continue to inform contemporary protective styles. Braids, twists, and locs, now explicitly protected under CROWN legislation, reduce daily manipulation, retain moisture, and support length retention, thereby upholding the very health principles our ancestors understood intuitively.

The journey toward the CROWN Act is studded with individual experiences of discrimination, each highlighting the immense pressure faced by those with textured hair. Take the poignant case of Chasity Jones in Alabama, whose job offer was rescinded because she refused to cut her locs to conform to a company’s grooming policy. This incident, which predated wider CROWN Act adoption, vividly illustrates the systemic nature of hair-based bias.

Her experience reflects a pattern documented by studies, such as the 2019 Dove CROWN Research Study, which found Black women were 1.5 times more likely to be sent home from the workplace due to their hair than other women. Such real-world impacts underscore the urgent need for legislation that recognizes and protects hair as an inseparable part of racial and cultural identity.

The Sacredness of Hair Care ❉ Traditional Tools and Techniques

The tools and techniques associated with textured hair care carry their own stories, linking past to present. While modern advancements offer new possibilities, many foundational elements echo ancient ways.

1. Combs and Picks ❉ Early African communities carved combs from wood or bone, tools essential for detangling and shaping dense, coiled hair. These tools were often adorned with symbols, signifying their cultural import. Today’s wide-tooth combs and Afro picks are direct descendants, designed to navigate the natural curls without causing breakage.
2. Styling with Natural Elements ❉ Beyond braiding, historical techniques involved using mud, clay, and plant extracts to condition and sculpt hair. The Chebe paste ritual from Chad, for instance, involves a blend of seeds, cloves, and other natural powders to nourish and strengthen strands, promoting length and luster over time. This ritual, passed down through generations, highlights a profound, active relationship with the earth’s bounty for hair vitality.
3. Boning and Threading ❉ Less common now but historically significant, techniques like hair threading involved using thread to stretch and straighten hair without heat, creating unique patterns and protective styles. These methods required skill and patience, often becoming communal activities where women would gather, sharing stories and strengthening community bonds.

The CROWN Act’s recognition of styles like locs and braids therefore provides a legal shield for practices that embody not only aesthetic preference but also centuries of communal ritual and ancestral wisdom. It is a necessary step towards a future where the living archive of textured hair can be openly celebrated, rather than concealed or modified under the weight of discriminatory policies.

Relay

The legislative journey of the CROWN Act, spanning from its genesis in California to its adoption in a growing number of states, is more than a legal chronicle; it represents a profound societal relay, a passing of the torch in the ongoing pursuit of equity and racial justice. Each state that codifies this protection contributes to a larger chorus, affirming that the diverse manifestations of textured hair are not simply personal choices, but integral expressions of racial and cultural identity. The resistance to this legislation, often masked in arguments of “professionalism,” reveals the deep-seated nature of systemic racism and its insidious manifestation in dress codes and grooming policies. These policies, often unwritten, have historically served as subtle yet powerful mechanisms to police Black bodies and reinforce Eurocentric aesthetic norms within public and private spaces.

The very act of passing such a law forces a collective re-examination of what “professionalism” truly means, challenging a narrow, exclusionary definition. It compels institutions, from schools to corporations, to confront inherited biases and to recognize the inherent dignity in allowing individuals to present themselves authentically, honoring their heritage without fear of penalty. This legislative momentum reflects decades of advocacy, lived experiences, and the unwavering resolve of communities dedicated to dismantling these discriminatory barriers.

Which States Have Led the Way in CROWN Act Adoption?

California stands as the trailblazer, enacting the first CROWN Act into law on July 3, 2019. This pioneering effort set a powerful precedent, sparking a legislative movement across the nation. Following California’s lead, states quickly began to consider and pass similar measures. The landscape of CROWN Act adoption continues to evolve, with states like New York, New Jersey, Maryland, Virginia, Colorado, Washington, Illinois, Connecticut, Delaware, New Mexico, Oregon, and Nebraska quickly joining the movement.

Later, states such as Minnesota, Louisiana, Tennessee, Nevada, and Michigan followed suit, solidifying a legislative trend. Most recently, Texas and Vermont have enacted their own versions, signaling continued momentum.

As of early 2025, approximately 27 states, along with Washington, D.C. have passed legislation prohibiting race-based hair discrimination. While this represents significant progress, a considerable portion of the nation’s Black population still resides in states without such protections, leaving many vulnerable to discriminatory practices.

The federal CROWN Act, though passed by the House of Representatives multiple times, has not yet achieved passage in the Senate, highlighting the persistent challenges in securing nationwide protection. The journey remains incomplete, but each state-level victory builds crucial momentum.

The CROWN Act’s spread across states marks a legal acknowledgment of racial identity, challenging historically narrow definitions of acceptable appearance.

Understanding the Lingering Impact of Hair Discrimination?

Despite legislative victories, the legacy of hair discrimination continues to cast long shadows. The experiences of individuals like Darryl George, a high school student in Texas suspended for his locs even after the state’s CROWN Act took effect, underscore the ongoing struggle for true enforcement and cultural shift. His situation reveals that laws alone, while essential, cannot immediately erase deeply ingrained biases and subjective interpretations of “grooming standards.” Such incidents are not isolated; research indicates that Black women, in particular, face significant disparities.

For instance, a 2023 study co-commissioned by Dove and LinkedIn found that Black women’s hair is 2.5 times more likely to be perceived as “unprofessional” than White women’s hair, and approximately two-thirds of Black women alter their hair for a job interview. These statistics lay bare the psychological and economic burden carried by individuals navigating spaces that subtly or overtly discriminate against their natural hair.

The economic impact extends beyond individual job opportunities. The necessity of conforming to Eurocentric beauty standards often translates to significant financial and time investments in hair straightening processes, sometimes involving chemicals that can cause long-term health consequences, including a possible association with uterine cancer and breast cancer. These expenditures disproportionately affect Black women, who spend a substantial amount on hair care, contributing to a multi-billion dollar industry that, while offering some economic opportunities, also reflects the pressure to conform. This economic reality adds another layer to the heritage conversation, as ancestral practices often centered on natural, accessible ingredients and communal care, rather than costly, potentially harmful chemical alterations.

Pathways to Comprehensive Protection

The fragmented adoption of the CROWN Act across states presents a complex legal topography, but it also demonstrates various pathways to broader change. Some states have opted for legislative routes, passing specific bills that amend existing civil rights laws to include hair texture and protective styles in the definition of race or racial traits. Others have pursued executive orders, providing immediate, albeit sometimes less permanent, protection.

At the municipal level, cities and counties have also taken the initiative, passing their own local ordinances, often predating statewide action and building public support for broader legislation. The case of New Orleans, which enacted a municipal CROWN Act in December 2020 before Louisiana passed its state law in June 2022, serves as a compelling example of local advocacy driving wider change.

The ongoing efforts to pass a federal CROWN Act highlight the desire for a uniform standard of protection across the nation. Such a federal law would provide comprehensive safeguards, ensuring that all individuals, regardless of their state of residence, are protected from hair discrimination in federally assisted programs, housing, public accommodations, and employment. The momentum generated by state-level victories, coupled with continued research and advocacy, provides a powerful foundation for this national aspiration. The movement is a testament to the enduring power of collective action, driven by a deep reverence for heritage and an unwavering demand for dignity.

Reflection

The story of the CROWN Act, from its inception to its state-by-state adoption, is a vibrant affirmation of the enduring power of Textured Hair Heritage. It is a chronicle of resistance, a legal echo of ancestral wisdom, and a living declaration that identity, so often expressed through the very strands of our being, is worthy of unwavering protection. The legislative acts themselves are not merely bureaucratic texts; they are acknowledgments carved into law, recognizing the profound historical and cultural weight carried by Black and mixed-race hair. Each coil, braid, and loc holds generations of artistry, spiritual meaning, and communal memory, and the protection of these expressions is a vital step in unraveling the systemic biases that have long sought to diminish their inherent worth.

Roothea stands as a living library of this heritage, a testament to the journey from the elemental biology of a hair strand to its voice in shaping futures. The CROWN Act, in this light, becomes a foundational chapter in this ever-unfolding archive. It allows the tender thread of traditional care to continue, ensuring that the wisdom of our ancestors, who understood the unique needs and spiritual significance of textured hair, can be honored openly in modern spaces. It encourages an environment where the science of hair health aligns with the art of its care, free from the constraints of discriminatory norms.

As we continue to witness states legislate this protection, we are not simply witnessing legal reform; we are observing a societal recalibration, a movement towards a more inclusive and respectful world where every strand, in its natural glory, is celebrated as a crown. The journey for equitable appreciation is far from over, but the path grows clearer, illuminated by the courage of those who have championed this cause, ensuring that the soul of a strand remains unbound, free to tell its ancient, beautiful story.