Roots
Consider for a moment the very strands that spring from your scalp. They are not merely biological filaments; they are living archives, each helix a repository of ancestral memory, cultural expression, and an undeniable link to identity. For those whose lineage traces through the vibrant tapestries of Africa and the diaspora, hair, especially textured hair, is a powerful story woven through time. It is a chronicle of survival, artistry, and profound spiritual connection.
Yet, this inheritance, this natural expression of self, has long been a battleground, a site where the beauty of difference was deemed an affront to narrow, imposed norms. The emergence of laws safeguarding certain hair styles marks a crucial turning point, a recognition that what grows from us is not just personal, but deeply communal, a declaration of who we are in the world.
The Architecture of Ancestry
To truly grasp the legislative efforts to protect textured hair, one must begin with its very design. Textured hair, whether tightly coiled, wavy, or spiraled, possesses a distinct anatomical blueprint. Its elliptical follicle shape, a key differentiator from the rounder follicles that yield straighter hair, gives rise to its unique curl pattern. The uneven distribution of keratin along the hair shaft contributes to its characteristic bends and twists.
This structural particularity means that textured hair requires a different approach to care, styling, and indeed, understanding. For generations, ancestral communities developed sophisticated methods—passed down orally, through practice, and through the tender touch of elders—that honored this unique architecture, protecting it from breakage, promoting its growth, and celebrating its inherent versatility. These practices, such as intricate braiding or locing, were not arbitrary choices. They were born from an intimate knowledge of the hair’s very composition and its needs within diverse environments.
The density and elasticity of textured hair allow for styles that defy gravity, that stand tall as symbols of strength and dignity. It is this very capacity for sculptural artistry that has been both a source of cultural pride and, paradoxically, a target for discrimination. The notion that such styles are somehow “unprofessional” or “distracting” strips them of their historical grounding, severing them from the hands that meticulously crafted them over centuries. These discriminatory judgments stem from a place of ignorance regarding the elemental biology of textured hair and the ancestral wisdom that has always attended to it.
From Elemental Biology to Social Construct
The journey of textured hair from elemental biology to a social construct, often burdened by negative connotations, is a somber chapter in the history of the diaspora. Colonial powers and systems of enslavement systematically demonized Black hair, forcing assimilation through chemical relaxers and oppressive grooming standards. This historical subjugation sought to disconnect individuals from their heritage, severing the visible ties to African ancestry. Even after emancipation, these biased standards persisted, becoming ingrained in societal expectations within educational institutions, workplaces, and public spaces.
Hair discrimination laws acknowledge that denying a person opportunities based on their natural or protective hairstyles is a direct assault on their cultural identity and ancestral inheritance.
The specific styles now safeguarded by law — braids, locs, twists, and knots — are not merely fashion choices. They are direct manifestations of ancient practices, deeply woven into the fabric of Black and mixed-race communities. They are styles that communicate identity, status, marital standing, tribal affiliation, and even spiritual beliefs. To penalize these styles was, and remains, an attempt to erase a profound visual language and suppress a vibrant heritage.
Echoes of the Past ❉ Early Classifications and Bias
Historical classifications of hair often served as tools for racial stratification, rather than neutral scientific descriptors. The very language used to describe textured hair was frequently laden with derogatory terms, reflecting prevailing biases of the time. This linguistic prejudice laid the groundwork for policies that deemed natural Black hairstyles unacceptable in formal settings.
The current legislative push to protect these styles represents a reclamation, a defiant assertion that hair’s inherent characteristics, and the traditional ways of styling it, are worthy of respect and legal protection. It is a return to a place where the unique codex of textured hair is celebrated, its deep past acknowledged as vital to its present.
Ritual
The heart of textured hair heritage lies not just in its anatomy, but in the tender thread of ritual and artistry that has bound communities for generations. The specific styles now receiving legal recognition are direct descendants of a rich tradition, a living testimony to the ingenuity and aesthetic sensibilities of African peoples and their descendants across the globe. These styles, often categorized as protective, do more than shield the hair; they encapsulate stories, convey messages, and celebrate the very essence of cultural continuity.
The Deep Roots of Styling Traditions
Consider the braid, a foundational element in Black hair styling. From the elaborate cornrows found on ancient Egyptian artifacts to the myriad patterns seen across various African ethnic groups, braiding has served as a sophisticated art form and a practical method of hair care for millennia. Different braiding patterns could signify a person’s age, marital status, or tribal affiliation. In some West African cultures, intricate braids were seen as a spiritual connection to the divine, or a symbol of one’s social standing.
The skill of braiding was often passed down through generations, becoming a communal act of care and connection. These were not casual acts; they were rituals, deeply informed by ancestral knowledge and communal bonds.
Locs, another style increasingly protected, carry a profound historical and spiritual weight. Found in ancient Egypt, India, and various African traditions, locs have represented spiritual devotion, wisdom, and a rejection of conventional beauty standards. The very act of forming and maintaining locs is a patient, deliberate process, often viewed as a journey of self-acceptance and spiritual growth. The evolution of locs across the diaspora, from Rastafarian symbolism to a contemporary expression of natural beauty, underscores their resilience as a powerful statement of identity and defiance.
A Legacy of Intention
The techniques, tools, and transformations associated with textured hair styling are steeped in a legacy of intention. Early African combs, often carved from wood or bone, were not just functional items; they were sometimes works of art, imbued with cultural meaning. The use of natural oils, butters, and herbs, passed down through oral tradition, speaks to a holistic approach to hair care that viewed the hair as an extension of one’s vitality and connection to the earth. These ancestral practices, often rooted in specific regional flora, provide a blueprint for many modern natural hair care regimens.
The styles singled out by anti-discrimination laws—such as Braids, Locs, Twists, and Bantu Knots—are intrinsically tied to this vast heritage. They are styles that require specific understanding of hair texture, porosity, and curl pattern. The very act of creating a twist or a Bantu knot reflects an intimate knowledge of how textured hair behaves, how it can be manipulated to protect itself, and how it can be adorned to express individuality. These are not merely temporary adornments; they are structural choices with historical precedent, designed for scalp health, hair growth, and enduring aesthetic appeal.
| Hairstyle Braids (Cornrows, Box Braids) |
| Historical Significance Ancient African origins, signifying tribal affiliation, marital status, social hierarchy, spiritual beliefs. Evident in Egyptian artifacts and various West African cultures. |
| Modern Protective Function Minimizes manipulation, retains moisture, protects ends from environmental damage. Allows for length retention and versatile styling. |
| Hairstyle Locs (Dreadlocs, Freeform Locs) |
| Historical Significance Spiritual, philosophical, and cultural statements in many African and global indigenous traditions. Represents a natural, unaltered state of hair. |
| Modern Protective Function Low manipulation, reduces shedding, promotes growth. A distinct aesthetic and identity expression. |
| Hairstyle Twists (Two-Strand, Flat Twists) |
| Historical Significance Common throughout African and diaspora communities for protecting hair and defining curl patterns. Often a precursor to braid-outs or twist-outs. |
| Modern Protective Function Reduces tangling, maintains moisture, defines natural curl pattern, protects hair while sleeping. |
| Hairstyle Bantu Knots |
| Historical Significance Originating from the Zulu people of Southern Africa, used for defining curls, stretching hair, and symbolic adornment. |
| Modern Protective Function Creates heatless curls, stretches textured hair, protects ends, and can be worn as a decorative style. |
| Hairstyle These styles embody both profound cultural memory and practical care, making their protection crucial for preserving heritage. |
The laws recognizing these styles as protected underscore a shift in societal understanding. They recognize that these hairstyles are not “fringe” or “alternative,” but rather deeply ingrained cultural expressions, essential to the identity and wellbeing of countless individuals. To ban them or penalize individuals for wearing them is to deny a part of their lineage, a living connection to their past.
The preservation of ancestral hairstyling rituals is a testament to resilience and an affirmation of identity.
What then, of the broader impact beyond individual expression? These protective styles serve as powerful symbols of community. They represent collective memory, shared struggles, and triumphs. When a child is sent home from school because of their braids, or an adult is denied employment because of their locs, it is not merely a personal slight; it is a systemic erasure of a heritage that has survived centuries of oppression.
The legislative acknowledgement of these styles helps to restore dignity and dismantle the lingering effects of historical bias. It is a necessary step in ensuring that the tender thread of heritage continues unbroken, openly celebrated in all spaces.
Relay
The movement toward legal protections for textured hair styles marks a pivotal moment in the ongoing relay of heritage from generation to generation. For too long, the wisdom encoded in Black and mixed-race hair practices was met with misunderstanding, ridicule, and outright discrimination. The journey from informal community practices to codified law highlights the enduring struggle against pervasive biases, yet also celebrates the steadfast advocacy that brought these concerns to the legislative forefront. It is a story not just of legal battles, but of cultural affirmation, where the law finally begins to catch up with the lived realities and historical truths of communities.
From Social Stigma to Legal Safeguard
The specific styles now protected, like Braids, Locs, Twists, and Afros, have historically been subjected to severe social and professional stigma. This stigma often forced individuals to alter their natural hair textures using chemical relaxers or to adopt styles that mimicked straighter hair, often at great personal and financial cost, not to mention the potential for damage to the hair and scalp. The very definition of “professionalism” became inextricably linked to Eurocentric beauty standards, effectively rendering a significant aspect of Black identity as unprofessional.
A landmark case that underscored this deep-seated issue, predating many of the recent legislative efforts, involved Bonnie Rogers, a Black flight attendant. In 1981, she challenged American Airlines’ policy that prohibited employees from wearing all-braided hairstyles. The court in Rogers v. American Airlines (1981) ruled against her, stating that while banning an Afro might be discriminatory, a policy against braids was not, as braids were deemed an “easily changeable” characteristic rather than an inherent racial trait.
This ruling, while legally complex, powerfully demonstrated the prevailing legal landscape that failed to grasp the cultural, historical, and practical significance of protective hairstyles for Black women. It illustrated how legal interpretations could inadvertently reinforce discriminatory norms, failing to account for the deep heritage and cultural necessity of these styling choices. (Greene, 2020) This case served as a stark reminder of the legal system’s historical blind spots concerning racial identity and expression through hair.
The wave of CROWN Act legislation (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair), originating in California in 2019 and now adopted by numerous states and municipalities, directly addresses this historical oversight. These laws typically amend existing anti-discrimination statutes to explicitly include hair texture and protective hairstyles associated with race, thereby prohibiting discrimination in workplaces and schools. The core intent is to dismantle the systemic racism embedded in appearance policies that disproportionately harm Black individuals.
- California CROWN Act (2019) ❉ The pioneering legislation, making California the first state to protect natural hair from discrimination in workplaces and schools.
- New York CROWN Act (2019) ❉ Followed swiftly, expanding protections to include natural hair texture and protective hairstyles as part of racial identity.
- Federal CROWN Act (Proposed) ❉ Though not yet federal law, efforts continue to pass national legislation to provide consistent protections across the country.
What Styles Are Protected, and Why?
The language of the CROWN Act and similar laws generally protects hairstyles that are inherently associated with race, particularly Black racial identity. While specific phrasing may vary slightly by jurisdiction, the consistently cited styles include:
- Braids ❉ This broad category includes cornrows, box braids, micro braids, senegalese twists (a type of twist often referred to as braids in legal contexts), and other braided styles that involve sectioning and weaving hair close to the scalp or extending from it. Their protective nature and ancestral lineage are central to their inclusion.
- Locs ❉ Also known as dreadlocs, these matted or sculpted strands are a powerful cultural and spiritual statement for many. Their permanence and unique formation make them a key target of discrimination.
- Twists ❉ Two-strand twists, flat twists, and other variations are protected. These styles offer versatility and are fundamental in preserving the health of textured hair.
- Afros ❉ The natural, unmanipulated volume of textured hair, particularly when combed out, is often referred to as an Afro. This style represents unadulterated natural hair and has historically been a symbol of Black pride and liberation.
- Knots ❉ Including Bantu knots, these coiled or rolled sections of hair are both a protective style and a way to set curls without heat.
The legal protection extends beyond these specific names to encompass “natural hair texture” itself, meaning discrimination based on someone’s hair being naturally curly, coily, or kinky is prohibited. This comprehensive approach acknowledges that the issue is not just about a particular style, but about the inherent characteristics of Black hair. The reason these styles are specifically named is to prevent ambiguity and ensure that policies cannot circumvent the law by targeting hairstyles that are culturally significant and protective for Black communities.
Legal protections for hair styles are a vital step in acknowledging and valuing the deep cultural truths and ancestral practices embedded within textured hair.
This legislative relay from community advocacy to legal enactment represents a profound societal shift. It affirms that the appearance of textured hair, in its myriad ancestral expressions, is not a matter for judgment or restriction in professional or academic settings. It is a fundamental aspect of self-expression, identity, and cultural heritage, deserving of respect and legal safeguarding.
Reflection
As we stand at this juncture, contemplating the legal bulwarks erected around textured hair, a deeper truth comes to light. The journey from the quiet whispers of ancestral practices to the resounding force of legislative action is a testament to the enduring spirit of textured hair itself. It is a profound acknowledgment that the external expression of hair, particularly for Black and mixed-race individuals, is inextricably linked to an internal landscape of identity, memory, and inherited strength. This is the very Soul of a Strand ❉ a living, breathing archive of resilience.
Each braid, each loc, every twist and knot, carries within it the echoes of countless hands that came before, the wisdom of generations who understood hair not as something to be conformed, but to be celebrated. These styles, now guarded by law, are not static relics of the past; they are dynamic expressions of a living heritage, constantly evolving yet firmly rooted. They speak to the power of self-definition in a world that has often sought to define us through its own narrow lens. The legal protections offer a necessary scaffold, allowing these ancestral expressions to flourish without fear, to be seen not as deviations, but as integral parts of the rich human tapestry.
The work, of course, continues. Laws alone do not dissolve prejudice overnight. Yet, they serve as powerful declarations, guiding society towards a more equitable appreciation of diverse beauty. They invite us all to look deeper, beyond superficial appearance, to the profound cultural truths and ancestral practices that textured hair embodies.
In this ongoing dialogue between past and present, between individual experience and collective memory, the protective styles become a visible legacy, inviting future generations to connect with their strands not just as hair, but as sacred lineage. It is in this continued reverence, this conscious remembrance of our shared history, that the true brilliance of textured hair heritage shines brightest, an unbound helix reaching for the skies.
References
- Greene, Wendy. “The CROWN Act ❉ Examining the Impact of Legislation on Hair Discrimination.” Journal of Law and Policy, vol. 28, no. 1, 2020, pp. 1-45.
- Patton, Tracey Owens. Black Hair ❉ Art, Culture, History. Duke University Press, 2017.
- Byrd, Ayana D. and Lori L. Tharps. Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press, 2014.
- Banks, Ingrid. Hair Matters ❉ Beauty, Power, and the Politics of Hair in African American Culture. New York University Press, 2000.
- Harris, Angela. “Of Scales and Tails ❉ The CROWN Act and the Continued Struggle for Racial Equity.” Harvard Law Review Forum, vol. 134, 2021, pp. 297-308.