
Roots
Consider a silent language, etched not in stone or papyrus, but within the very coils and kinks of our hair. It is a language spoken across millennia, a whispered wisdom from the Nile’s fertile banks to the vibrant streets we walk today. What specific ancient Egyptian styling methods influence textured hair today?
To truly grasp this connection, we must allow our consciousness to settle upon the ancient world, to feel the sun on our skin, the fine desert dust in the air, and to see hair not merely as fiber, but as a living scroll, holding generations of practices, intentions, and profound cultural memory. This is not a distant history; it is a resonant echo, a blueprint carried within the very structure of our strands, tying us to a rich ancestral past.

What Did Ancient Egyptian Hair Morphology Resemble?
Understanding the fundamental nature of hair in ancient Egypt offers a ground for recognizing enduring influences. While depictions often show straightened or smooth styles, scientific studies of mummified remains present a more varied truth. Microscopic examinations of hair samples from mummies reveal a spectrum of hair types, including those with significant curl and wave patterns. This physical evidence suggests a diverse populace, whose hair characteristics ranged from straight to tightly curled (Bos, 2014).
Such findings challenge simplistic notions and underscore the prevalence of hair with inherent texture among ancient Egyptians, just as it is found in diverse populations today. The unique morphology of highly curved hair, characterized by an elliptical cross-section and retro-curvature at the hair bulb, naturally predisposes it to qualities like dryness and breakage at points of curvature, characteristics observed in many textured hair types presently.

Ancient Hair Care Practices and Their Foundational Wisdom
Before the grand displays of wigs and intricate braids, ancient Egyptian hair care began with foundational practices rooted in cleanliness and nourishment. The harsh desert environment necessitated careful attention to the scalp and strands. Archaeological findings, combined with written records, point to a consistent approach to maintaining hair health. This began with washing, often employing water and alkali salts.
Following cleansing, oils and other conditioning agents were applied to moisturize and protect the hair. This basic regimen set the stage for styling, underscoring a belief in hair as an integral part of holistic wellbeing, not just an aesthetic feature. The emphasis on oils for their protective and hydrating properties forms a deep link to contemporary textured hair routines, where moisture retention is paramount.
The wisdom of ancient Egyptian hair practices flows into today’s textured hair care, underscoring that health is the foundation for any beautiful style.
The lexicon of ancient hair care, while not formalized in a modern sense, spoke through the materials and gestures employed. Combs, often fashioned from bone or ivory, were essential tools for detangling and shaping. The consistent presence of these items in funerary contexts speaks to their significance in life and beyond.
The very act of combing, then as now, serves to distribute natural oils and prepare the hair for further manipulation. This simple, repetitive action, passed through generations, binds us to an ancient rhythm of care.

Ritual
From the intrinsic nature of the strand, we move to the purposeful motions and materials that sculpted ancient Egyptian hair into statements of identity, status, and spirit. These were not random acts, but deliberate rituals, deeply imbued with cultural significance. What specific ancient Egyptian styling methods influence textured hair today through these ritualistic applications?

How Did Ancient Egyptians Style Textured Hair For Protective Measures?
One of the most striking parallels between ancient Egyptian styling and contemporary textured hair practices lies in the widespread use of braids, twists, and extensions. Visual records, from tomb paintings to preserved mummies, show individuals across social strata sporting braided styles. These varied from fine, delicate plaits to thick, robust forms. Braiding served multiple purposes ❉ it offered protection from the elements, managed hair in a hot climate, and acted as a canvas for artistic expression.
The concept of wrapping and securing hair to preserve it, minimize tangling, and reduce breakage, is directly reflected in modern protective styling. This ancient approach intuitively recognized the vulnerability of hair to environmental stressors and the physical stresses of daily life, particularly for highly curled textures. The historical presence of complex braided forms suggests a mastery of techniques that required both skill and patience, much like the intricate braiding traditions cherished in many Black communities today.
The practice of affixing hair extensions and wigs also held profound importance. Wigs, often made from human hair or plant fibers, were prevalent across genders and social classes. They provided hygiene, protection from the sun, and allowed for elaborate styles that conveyed status and wealth. These elaborate hairpieces were frequently set with beeswax and resin to maintain their form and luster, a precursor to modern styling gels and pomades.
The archaeological discovery of a woman’s remains in Amarna with nearly seventy hair extensions fastened in distinct layers provides tangible proof of the sophistication and sheer volume achieved through these additions. (Bos, 2014) The historical precedent for hair augmentation in ancient Egypt parallels the modern cultural significance of wigs and extensions in Black and mixed-race communities, where they serve as tools for versatility, protection, and expression of identity.
Ancient Egyptian ingenuity in protective styles, particularly braiding and wig-making, offers a timeless blueprint for managing and adorning textured hair.

What Tools and Treatments Shaped Ancient Egyptian Hairstyles?
The efficacy of ancient Egyptian hair styling relied heavily on a curated selection of tools and natural preparations. These implements and ingredients represent a direct lineage to many elements still considered essential in textured hair care routines. The use of oils was fundamental. Castor oil, for instance, a staple in ancient Egyptian hair care, was renowned for its nourishing and moisturizing properties.
Its continued use in modern formulations speaks to an enduring understanding of its benefits for conditioning and strengthening hair, particularly for types prone to dryness. Other oils like almond oil, moringa oil, and even honey were combined to create hair masks and treatments that promoted growth and shine.
| Ancient Egyptian Method Braiding and Plaiting (various styles) |
| Contemporary Textured Hair Equivalent or Influence Protective Styling (box braids, cornrows, twists, locs) |
| Ancient Egyptian Method Wig and Extension Use (human hair, plant fiber) |
| Contemporary Textured Hair Equivalent or Influence Hair Augmentation (wigs, weaves, clip-ins for length/volume/protection) |
| Ancient Egyptian Method Oiling Scalp and Strands (castor, almond, moringa oils) |
| Contemporary Textured Hair Equivalent or Influence Moisturizing and Sealing (natural oils, oil blends for hydration retention) |
| Ancient Egyptian Method Fat-Based Gels/Resins (beeswax, animal fats) |
| Contemporary Textured Hair Equivalent or Influence Styling Gels and Pomades (for hold, definition, and shine) |
| Ancient Egyptian Method Combs (ivory, bone) and Hairpins |
| Contemporary Textured Hair Equivalent or Influence Wide-Tooth Combs, detangling tools, decorative pins |
| Ancient Egyptian Method The continuity of these practices reveals a profound, shared heritage in hair care across millennia. |
Ancient Egyptians also used fat-based substances, often described as a form of ‘gel’, to set and hold hairstyles in place. Analysis of mummified hair samples indicates a coating containing biological long-chain fatty acids, suggesting these products kept styles firm during life and even into the afterlife. This echoes the modern application of styling gels and pomades to define curls, smooth edges, and provide hold for textured hair, showcasing a persistent need for products that offer lasting style integrity.
The spectrum of tools ranged from practical combs for detangling to more specialized implements. While the exact function of all excavated objects remains debated, some metal implements resemble curling tongs, suggesting methods for adding shape or curl to hair or wigs. This early innovation speaks to a desire for specific stylistic outcomes, a pursuit that continues with modern heat styling tools for textured hair, though with heightened awareness of thermal damage. The careful preservation of these tools in tombs further highlights the reverence held for hair care as a significant part of one’s identity and journey.

Relay
The journey of influence from ancient Egypt to our textured hair today is not a simple linear progression; it is a complex relay, where cultural practices, scientific understanding, and ancestral memory pass a torch across time. The methods employed by ancient Egyptians were not isolated technical acts; they were woven into the very fabric of society, speaking volumes about identity, status, and spiritual connection. This enduring legacy finds vibrant expression in the heritage of Black and mixed-race communities.

How Do Ancient Practices Inform Modern Textured Hair Identity?
Hair in ancient Egypt held deep social and spiritual meaning, a mirror to the societal values of the time. Hairstyles communicated age, social standing, and gender. For the elite, elaborate wigs and adorned natural hair were unmistakable markers of status, often embellished with gold, beads, and ribbons. This profound connection between hair and identity is a powerful thread stretching into the present.
In many Black and mixed-race cultures, hair continues to be a potent symbol of self-expression, cultural pride, and resilience. For instance, in pre-colonial African societies, styles like braids, twists, and locs conveyed tribal affiliation, marital status, and family background. The adoption of braiding traditions by Egyptians, drawing from Nubian influences, underscores an early historical exchange of hair practices across African civilizations. This exchange highlights how methods traverse geographical and cultural boundaries, becoming shared ancestral wisdom. The persistence of these styles, even through periods of immense oppression like the transatlantic slave trade where hair was forcibly shaved as a dehumanizing act, speaks to their deep cultural roots and the spirit of survival.
The ancient Egyptian reverence for hair as a marker of identity and status reverberates through the enduring cultural significance of textured hair in Black and mixed-race communities today.
The practical side of ancient Egyptian hair care, driven by hygiene and protection from the elements, also holds a scientific resonance for textured hair today. The dense, curly nature of Afro-textured hair, characterized by its elliptical cross-section and higher tendency to form knots, makes it more susceptible to dryness and breakage. The ancient use of oils like castor oil, rich in fatty acids, provided essential hydration and strengthening properties, addressing concerns inherent to textured hair.
(Minich, 2024) This ancient understanding of hair’s needs, even without modern scientific terminology, anticipated fundamental aspects of textured hair biology. The application of fat-based “gels” to set hairstyles, confirmed by analyses of mummified hair, provided not only aesthetic hold but also a protective layer against environmental desiccation.

What Specific Historical Examples Show Hair’s Enduring Connection?
One striking historical example illuminating the enduring connection of ancient Egyptian styling to textured hair heritage is the meticulous preservation of hair in ancient tombs, often revealing highly elaborate coiffures on un-mummified individuals. In one remarkable instance, the remains of a woman at the Amarna cemetery, a city built around 3300 years ago, were discovered with an extremely complex hairstyle incorporating almost seventy hair extensions. These extensions were carefully fastened in distinct layers and at varying heights. (Bos, 2014) This discovery underscores the profound skill of ancient Egyptian hairdressers and the cultural value placed on elaborate, augmented hairstyles.
This practice, employing multiple added strands to create voluminous and intricate looks, directly parallels the sophisticated use of braids, weaves, and extensions within Black and mixed-race communities today to achieve diverse styles, add length, and protect natural hair. The historical precedent of creating voluminous, protective styles through additions like extensions is a direct lineage to modern textured hair care. This continuity of technique and purpose transcends millennia, speaking to an ancestral ingenuity that solved practical challenges while expressing identity through hair.
- Braided Locks ❉ The earliest evidence of hair offerings and intricate braided locks dates back to the Predynastic Period (c. 4500-2900 BCE), found in various burial sites. These ancient plaits echo the widespread use of braids in African traditions, which served as social, spiritual, and identifying markers.
- Castor Oil ❉ Discovered in ancient Egyptian tombs dating back to 4000 BCE, castor oil was utilized for cosmetics, medicines, and hair preparations. Today, it remains a beloved ingredient in textured hair care products globally, valued for its ability to soften, lubricate, and moisturize dry, coily hair.
- Hair Combs ❉ Decorative combs, some dating to 3900 BCE, made from ivory and featuring animal motifs, served practical and perhaps ritualistic purposes. Their existence signifies a continuous tradition of using specialized tools for detangling and styling, which continues with modern wide-tooth combs designed for textured hair.
The science of hair morphology further strengthens this connection. Research shows that Afro-textured hair exhibits distinct properties, such as a lower density of follicles compared to Caucasian hair (an average of 190 hairs per square centimeter versus 227). Coupled with its unique curl pattern and elliptical cross-section, this makes textured hair inherently more prone to breakage due to mechanical stress.
The ancient Egyptian methods of protective styling, oiling, and employing extensions, therefore, were not merely aesthetic choices; they were sophisticated, intuitive responses to the biological needs of hair, many of which are pronounced in textured hair types. This foresight represents a deep ancestral knowledge, passed down not through written scientific papers, but through practical application and cultural wisdom.

Reflection
As we close this chapter on the enduring influence of ancient Egyptian styling on textured hair today, we find ourselves standing at a vibrant crossroads of past and present. The intricate braids, the nourishing oils, the ingenious use of extensions and wigs—these were not transient fashions from a distant land. They were powerful expressions of care, identity, and profound connection, echoes from a civilization that recognized the inherent power held within each strand.
Roothea’s ‘Soul of a Strand’ ethos reminds us that our hair is more than keratin and pigment; it is a living archive, a repository of ancestral memory and communal strength. The practices of ancient Egypt, far from being relics, serve as a testament to the enduring ingenuity of humanity in tending to the needs of textured hair, long before modern science offered its explanations.
The legacy of ancient Egyptian hair care calls upon us to view our own routines with a deeper sense of reverence. It encourages us to consider the journey of our hair, from its elemental biology shaped by generations to the conscious choices we make in its care. This dialogue across time invites us to rediscover the wisdom held within natural ingredients, the protective power of ancestral styles, and the profound meaning hair carries in the shaping of self and community. Our textured hair, in its myriad forms, stands as a vibrant, living connection to a heritage rich with beauty, resilience, and timeless wisdom, inviting us to carry this sacred knowledge forward, unbound and truly radiant.

References
- Bos, Jurlanda. “Proof of Hair Extensions Among Ancient Egyptians.” New Historian, 22 Sep. 2014.
- Fletcher, Joann, and Filippo Salamone. “An Ancient Egyptian Wig ❉ Construction and Reconstruction.” Internet Archaeology, no. 42, 2016.
- Minich, Deanna. “The Science of Castor Oil.” Deanna Minich, 9 Feb. 2024.
- McCreesh, Natalie, et al. “Ancient Egyptians Used ‘Hair Gel’.” Nature Middle East, 23 Aug. 2011.
- Ranieri Roy, Laura. “Hair of the Pharaohs.” Ancient Egypt Alive, 21 Jul. 2023.
- Alami, Sana. “The Secret of Ancient Egyptian Beauty.” Arab News, 26 Dec. 2012.
- University of Salford Students’ Union. “The Remarkable History Behind Black Hairstyles.” 29 Oct. 2024.
- BLAM UK CIC. “The History of Black Hair.” 15 Sep. 2022.
- Byrd, Ayana, and Lori Tharps. Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press, 2001.
- Gale Review. “African Hairstyles – The “Dreaded” Colonial Legacy.” 23 Nov. 2021.
- Robbins, Clarence R. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed. Springer, 2012.
- Wickett, R. Randall, and J. L. R. Maibach, editors. Hair and Hair Care. 2nd ed. CRC Press, 2004.