What role did colonialism play in textured hair product choices?

Roots

Consider the story held within each strand, a living archive of generations, a testament to resilience, and a vibrant echo of ancestral lands. For those with textured hair, this isn’t merely about personal style; it’s a profound connection to a shared past, a lineage that colonialism sought to sever. How, then, did the very fabric of colonial imposition reshape the choices available for our hair, altering not just aesthetics but the very spirit of self-expression?

This inquiry calls us to look beyond the surface, to the deep, often unspoken narratives that define textured hair heritage. It invites us to understand how the foundational understanding of textured hair, its intricate biology, and the language used to describe it, were profoundly impacted by historical forces.

The Architecture of Ancestral Hair

The biological blueprint of textured hair, with its unique elliptical follicle shape and varied curl patterns, speaks to a remarkable diversity born of human migration and adaptation across continents. Before colonial intrusions, indigenous communities possessed an intimate, generational understanding of these distinct qualities. This wisdom, passed through hands and whispered traditions, informed their care practices and product choices. The very lexicon for hair types and their needs was rooted in communal observation and respect for natural variation.

• Melanin Distribution ❉ The varied distribution of melanin within the hair shaft, contributing to its strength and color, was understood and honored in ancestral practices.
• Follicle Shape ❉ The distinctive elliptical or flattened shape of the follicle, which creates the curl, was seen not as a deviation but as a natural expression of beauty.
• Curl Pattern Diversity ❉ From loose waves to tightly coiled strands, the spectrum of curl patterns was celebrated, each possessing its own traditional care rituals.

Colonial Erasure of Indigenous Hair Knowledge

Colonialism, with its inherent drive for cultural dominance, systematically dismantled indigenous knowledge systems, including those related to hair care. The imposition of Eurocentric beauty ideals rendered traditional practices and product ingredients “primitive” or “unclean.” This wasn’t a gentle suggestion; it was a forceful re-education that devalued ancestral wisdom and promoted a new standard of “manageability” tied to straight hair. The very terms used to describe textured hair shifted, often carrying negative connotations that served to reinforce racial hierarchies.

The devaluation of textured hair during colonial eras was a deliberate act, stripping communities of their ancestral practices and imposing alien beauty standards.

Consider the insidious shift in language. Terms like “woolly” or “kinky,” once perhaps descriptive, became loaded with derogatory meaning, serving to categorize and diminish the beauty of Black hair (Johnson and Bankhead, 2014). This linguistic manipulation was a subtle, yet powerful, mechanism of control, influencing product development and consumer choice for generations.

The Legacy of “Good Hair” and “Bad Hair”

The racial dichotomy of “good hair” versus “bad hair” became deeply embedded in the collective consciousness, a direct consequence of colonial ideology (Byrd and Tharps, 2014). “Good hair” mirrored European straightness, while “bad hair” referred to the natural, coiled textures of African descent. This arbitrary classification fueled a market for products designed to alter natural hair, rather than nourish it in its authentic state.

This ideological imposition meant that product choices were no longer about optimal care for specific hair types, but about conforming to an imposed aesthetic. The very concept of what constituted a desirable hair product was warped, steering individuals away from ancestral ingredients and toward chemical solutions.

Ritual

As we move from the fundamental understanding of textured hair, a deeper appreciation for the interplay of ancestral practice and imposed convention reveals itself. The evolution of care, the very rituals we undertake, bear the indelible marks of history. How, then, did colonialism shape the daily routines and product selections that became commonplace for textured hair, influencing not just what was used, but how it was used, and for what purpose? This section delves into the practical realm, exploring how styling techniques, tools, and transformations were either suppressed or adapted under colonial pressures, and how these adaptations continue to resonate in our hair heritage.

The Imposition of Conformity Through Styling

Before colonial incursions, hair styling in many African societies was a profound cultural expression, a language of identity, status, and spirituality. Elaborate styles, often requiring specific tools and plant-based preparations, communicated lineage, marital status, age, and even tribal affiliation (Morrow, 1973). These practices were vibrant rituals, connecting individuals to their communities and their past.

With the advent of colonialism and chattel slavery, this rich heritage faced a brutal assault. Hair was shaved for “sanitary reasons” as a deliberate act of dehumanization, severing ties to ancestral roots (Johnson and Bankhead, 2014).

The suppression of traditional hair styling was a colonial tactic to dismantle identity and enforce a hierarchy of beauty.

The Tignon Laws, enacted in New Orleans in 1786 by Spanish colonial Governor Don Esteban Miró, stand as a stark historical example. These laws mandated that free women of color cover their hair with a tignon (scarf or handkerchief) in public, aiming to visually distinguish them from white women and re-establish their ties to the slave class (Nasheed, 2018; Gould, 2018). Yet, in a powerful act of resistance, these women adorned their tignons with intricate fabrics and jewels, transforming a symbol of oppression into a statement of style and defiance (Hambrick, 2018). This historical example shows how even under duress, the spirit of self-expression and cultural pride endured, shaping the very product choices—fabrics, adornments—used for hair.

The Rise of Chemical Alteration

The desire for hair that conformed to Eurocentric standards, deeply ingrained by colonial ideals, paved the way for the widespread adoption of chemical straighteners. The hot comb, introduced in 1872, and later improved by figures like Madam C.J. Walker, offered a temporary solution to achieve straighter textures.

However, the true transformation in product choices came with the popularization of chemical relaxers in the early 20th century. These products, initially marketed as a way to “manage” hair, implicitly promoted the idea of diminishing African roots to assimilate into white society (Bridgewater, 2011).

The prevalence of chemical relaxer use among Black women is well-documented, with estimates suggesting that approximately 90% of Black American women and women in West Africa have used them, often starting at a young age (Khumalo et al. 2025). This widespread adoption speaks to the enduring pressure to conform to imposed beauty standards, directly influencing the demand for and development of specific hair products.

The very ingredients within these products reflect a departure from ancestral practices. Traditional hair care relied on natural oils, herbs, and butters, often sourced locally and prepared through communal knowledge. The shift to chemical relaxers, containing substances like sodium hydroxide or lithium hydroxide, marked a profound change in the chemical composition of products applied to textured hair, often with significant health implications (James-Todd, 2024).

Tools of Transformation and Resistance

The tools used for hair care also tell a story of colonial influence and ancestral resilience. Traditional African combs, often intricately carved and imbued with cultural meaning, were replaced or devalued. The adoption of new tools, from the hot comb to the flat iron, mirrored the desire for straighter hair.

Yet, even in this landscape of imposed norms, threads of ancestral wisdom persisted. The practice of hair oiling, for example, a deeply rooted tradition across many African cultures, continues to be a vital part of textured hair care. While the specific oils may have changed over time, the underlying ritual of nourishing the scalp and strands with natural emollients remains a testament to enduring heritage.

Relay

How does the historical echo of colonialism continue to shape the very products that grace our shelves today, influencing not just what we buy, but how we perceive the essence of textured hair itself? This query compels us to delve into the intricate interplay of biological realities, cultural narratives, and economic forces that have long defined the choices for textured hair. We move now to a sophisticated examination, where the threads of science, history, and commerce intertwine, revealing the profound, enduring legacy of colonial ideologies on textured hair product choices and the collective heritage they embody.

The Medicalization of Hair and the Rise of “Solutions”

Colonialism’s enduring impact on textured hair product choices extends beyond mere aesthetics; it deeply ingrained a perception of natural Black hair as inherently problematic, requiring “solutions” rather than celebration. This medicalization of hair, often presented as a path to “manageability,” created a lucrative market for chemical treatments. The very concept of “unruly” hair, a descriptor often applied to textured hair, served to justify the sale of harsh chemical relaxers.

Research indicates a concerning correlation between the use of chemical relaxers and health issues disproportionately affecting Black women. For instance, studies suggest that frequent use of chemical relaxers (more than four times a year) increases the incidence of endometrial cancer by a hazard ratio of 2.55 (ASCO Publications, 2024). Black women in the United States, who constitute approximately 6.5% of the population, purchase 60% of chemical straighteners (ASCO Publications, 2024). This stark statistic underscores the profound influence of historical beauty standards on contemporary consumer behavior and product exposure.

The Economic Architecture of Hair Product Markets

The colonial framework didn’t just alter perceptions; it restructured entire economies around hair. Manufacturers, predominantly those outside the Black community, capitalized on the demand for straightening products, often at the expense of traditional, community-based enterprises that once supplied natural remedies. This economic dominance meant that product innovation and marketing heavily favored chemical solutions, marginalizing ancestral ingredients and formulations.

The concept of “Black tax” in the beauty industry—the phenomenon where products for textured hair are often more expensive or harder to find than those for straight hair—can be seen as a lingering shadow of this colonial economic structure. The market was, and to some extent remains, geared towards altering, rather than simply caring for, textured hair.

Reclaiming Heritage Through Ingredient Choices

The modern natural hair movement, a powerful expression of self-acceptance and cultural reclamation, directly challenges these colonial legacies. It represents a conscious shift in product choices, moving away from chemical straighteners and towards ingredients that honor the inherent qualities of textured hair. This movement is not simply about aesthetics; it is a profound act of decolonization, reconnecting individuals with ancestral wisdom and self-worth (Gqeba, 2019).

Consider the renewed appreciation for ingredients that were staples in pre-colonial African hair care:

1. Shea Butter ❉ A rich emollient derived from the shea tree, traditionally used for its moisturizing and protective qualities across West Africa.
2. Coconut Oil ❉ A versatile oil, valued for its ability to penetrate the hair shaft and reduce protein loss, with historical uses in many tropical regions.
3. Aloe Vera ❉ Known for its soothing and hydrating properties, a plant used in various traditional healing and beauty practices.

This return to natural, heritage-aligned ingredients signifies a deliberate choice to support products that prioritize hair health and integrity over conformity to an imposed standard. It reflects a growing awareness of the historical context that shaped past product choices and a desire to forge a new path rooted in self-affirmation.

The Future of Textured Hair Product Choices

The journey from colonial imposition to conscious choice is ongoing. The increasing demand for products that cater specifically to textured hair, free from harsh chemicals and rich in natural ingredients, is a testament to this evolution. This shift is supported by a growing body of research that validates the efficacy of traditional ingredients and highlights the health risks associated with chemical straighteners (James-Todd, 2024). The future of textured hair product choices is intrinsically linked to the continued reclamation of heritage, a vibrant tapestry woven from scientific understanding, cultural pride, and ancestral wisdom.

Reflection

The journey through the intricate landscape of textured hair product choices, guided by the indelible hand of colonialism, reveals a story far deeper than mere commerce. It is a narrative of profound cultural resilience, of ancestral wisdom enduring through centuries of suppression, and of a vibrant heritage that refuses to be silenced. Each coil, each curl, carries the memory of practices nearly lost, of identities challenged, and of a spirit that, despite everything, found ways to express its authentic beauty. To understand the role of colonialism in these choices is to understand the very soul of a strand – a living library, perpetually expanding, constantly reminding us that true radiance stems from honoring one’s inherent legacy.

References

• ASCO Publications. (2024). Chemical hair relaxer use and its potential effect on incidence of endometrial cancer in Black women. ASCO Publications .
• Bridgewater, S. (2011). The oppressive roots of hair relaxer. The Commonwealth Times .
• Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. D. (2014). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Gqeba, N. G. (2019). Different Manifestations and Permutations of Colonial Culture ❉ The African Hair in Dispute. International Journal of Innovation and Scientific Research, 42(1), 190-197.
• Hambrick, K. (2018). As quoted in ❉ When Black Women Were Required By Law to Cover Their Hair. VICE .
• James-Todd, T. (2024). Uncovering the dangers of hair products marketed to Black women, girls. Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health News .
• Johnson, T. D. & Bankhead, T. (2014). Sending Out a Signal ❉ The Importance of Hair in the Identity of Black People. Sociology of Race and Ethnicity, 1(1), 1-13.
• Khumalo, N. P. et al. (2025). Chemicals of concern in select packaged hair relaxers available on the Kenyan market ❉ an examination of ingredient labels and measurement of pH. Frontiers in Public Health .
• Morrow, L. (1973). Hair and the African Woman. Howard University Press.
• Nasheed, J. (2018). When Black Women Were Required By Law to Cover Their Hair. VICE .