What is the role of the CROWN Act in supporting Black hair heritage today?

Roots

For many, the simple act of touching one’s hair, or perhaps watching a loved one braid a familiar pattern, carries more than tactile sensation or visual memory. It is a brush with generations of resilience, a whisper from ancient practices, a resonance of shared heritage. Our hair, particularly textured hair, holds a profound space within Black and mixed-race communities.

It speaks of journeys, of identity, and of a spirit that refuses to be confined. The CROWN Act enters this deeply personal and historically charged landscape not as a sudden novelty, but as a deliberate and necessary step in an ongoing conversation about autonomy, respect, and the fundamental right to embody one’s ancestral legacy in public and professional spaces.

For centuries, the hair of Black people, with its unique curls, coils, and textures, has been a canvas for artistry, a symbol of status, and a conduit for spiritual connection in African societies. Ancient African civilizations revered hair, seeing it as a symbol of identity, status, and even ancestral connections. Styles communicated marital status, age, religion, wealth, and rank. In pre-colonial West Africa, hair stylists were highly respected, their craft embodying deep cultural meaning.

Take, for instance, the Yoruba people of Nigeria, who crafted intricate hairstyles imbued with spiritual significance, often performed by skilled artisans held in high regard within their communities. (Afriklens, 2024) These traditions, deeply woven into the fabric of daily life, underscored a collective reverence for hair as a living, expressive part of the self.

The transatlantic slave trade, a brutal sundering of cultures and lives, attempted to sever this connection. Forcibly shaving heads was a dehumanizing act, an effort to erase not only individual identity but also the cultural memory carried within these traditional styles. (Byrd and Tharps) Yet, even in the crucible of oppression, resistance blossomed. Enslaved individuals, against unimaginable odds, continued to honor their heritage through hair.

Cornrows, for example, were not merely practical styles but became clandestine maps to freedom, encoding routes and messages within their intricate patterns. (BLAM UK CIC, 2022) This resilience of practice, even under duress, speaks volumes about the enduring power of textured hair as a cultural marker.

The Anatomy of Ancestry

To truly understand the CROWN Act’s significance, we must first grasp the biological uniqueness of textured hair. Afro-textured hair, characterized by its tight curls and coils, evolved as a natural adaptation to the warm, sunny climates of Africa. The coiled structure provides insulation, protecting the scalp from the sun while also retaining moisture in arid environments. (Noma Sana, 2024) This inherent structure, a gift of adaptation, also renders it distinct in its needs and behaviors.

• Follicle Shape ❉ Unlike the round follicles that produce straight hair, textured hair emerges from elliptical or oval-shaped follicles, giving rise to its characteristic curls and coils. (MedicineNet, 2024; Hexis Lab, 2024)
• Disulfide Bonds ❉ The protein keratin forms the bulk of our hair. In textured hair, there is a higher density of disulfide bonds, contributing to its unique structure and curl pattern. (Hexis Lab, 2024) These bonds, though strong, can also contribute to the hair’s vulnerability to breakage if not handled with informed care.
• Moisture Needs ❉ The helical path of textured hair makes it more challenging for natural scalp oils to travel down the hair shaft, leading to increased dryness compared to straighter hair types. This necessitates specific care regimens centered on hydration.

These biological realities are not deficiencies but rather distinct attributes that have historically been misunderstood, or worse, weaponized, within Eurocentric beauty standards. The CROWN Act recognizes these inherent differences, seeking to shield individuals from discrimination rooted in a lack of understanding or respect for this natural morphology. It underscores that the way one’s hair grows from their head is a biological trait, deserving of the same protection as other aspects of racial identity.

The CROWN Act acknowledges the biological distinctiveness of textured hair, recognizing it as a fundamental aspect of racial identity that warrants legal protection.

Naming Our Strands

The lexicon surrounding textured hair has long reflected societal biases. Terms like “nappy” have been wielded as tools of denigration, perpetuating harmful stereotypes. The journey toward reclamation of identity involves not only changing laws but also reclaiming language.

The CROWN Act, in its very acronym, “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” contributes to this re-framing. It elevates terms like “locs,” “braids,” and “twists” from perceived unprofessionalism to legally protected styles.

This re-centering of language reflects a deeper cultural shift. When we speak of Afros, we remember the powerful statement of Black pride and resistance during the Civil Rights era. (Afriklens, 2024) When we speak of Cornrows, we recall their historical significance as maps and symbols of defiance for enslaved Africans.

(BLAM UK CIC, 2022) These are not merely hairstyles, but historical markers, their names imbued with stories and resilience. The CROWN Act provides a legislative framework that supports the right to use these terms, and wear these styles, without fear of reprisal.

The enduring legacy of textured hair in the face of centuries of oppression is a testament to its profound cultural significance. The CROWN Act provides a modern shield for ancient heritage.

Ritual

The true measure of a law’s reach extends beyond its written words, touching the daily lives and intimate rituals of those it seeks to protect. For individuals with textured hair, particularly those within Black and mixed-race communities, hair care has always been more than mere grooming; it is a sacred practice, a communal activity, and a silent conversation with ancestry. The CROWN Act, by safeguarding the right to wear natural and protective styles, impacts these deeply rooted rituals, allowing them to continue unburdened by external prejudice.

Centuries of traditional African hair care practices form the bedrock of many modern routines. These practices were rooted in a deep understanding of natural ingredients and methods that prioritized hair health and spiritual connection. For instance, in West Africa, the use of shea butter, often combined with plant ash, has been a traditional method for cleansing and nourishing hair. (Africa Imports, 2021) This ancestral wisdom speaks to a holistic approach, where hair health was intertwined with overall well-being.

How Does the CROWN Act Uphold Ancestral Wisdom in Daily Regimens?

The CROWN Act, by specifically naming and protecting styles like Braids, Locs, Twists, and Bantu Knots, provides a legal shield for practices that have sustained Black communities for centuries. (ADL, 2022) This legislation does not simply grant permission to wear certain styles; it affirms the inherent value of these expressions of heritage, challenging the long-standing societal norms that deemed them “unprofessional” or “unsuitable.” (Nu Origins Magazine, 2023)

Consider the simple act of moisturizing. Textured hair, by its very nature, tends to be drier. Ancestral practices consistently emphasized the use of natural oils and butters for moisture retention. Shea butter, a staple ingredient in many Nigerian hair products, has been cherished for its moisturizing and healing properties for generations.

(My Sasun, 2023) The CROWN Act creates an environment where individuals no longer feel compelled to chemically straighten their hair to conform, a practice that can be both physically and psychologically damaging. (Research, 2025) This freedom to maintain hair in its natural state, using traditional methods, directly aligns with the preservation of holistic, ancestral care.

The psychological toll of hair discrimination is well-documented. A 2020 study by Michigan State University and Duke University found that Black women with natural hairstyles are less likely to secure job interviews than white women or Black women with straightened hair. (Legal Defense Fund, 2020) Beyond professional gatekeeping, the constant microaggressions and societal pressure to alter one’s hair can lead to internalized racism, anxiety, and a diminished sense of self-worth. (Research, 2025; Psychology Today, 2023) The CROWN Act combats this by validating natural hair, fostering self-acceptance and empowering individuals to wear their heritage with pride.

The CROWN Act offers a legal affirmation that traditional Black hairstyles are professional and acceptable, thereby reducing the psychological burden of conformity.

Shifting Standards, Preserving Heritage

The CROWN Act’s influence extends beyond legal protection; it shapes cultural understanding and challenges Eurocentric beauty standards that have historically policed Black hair. The 1700s saw the implementation of the infamous Tignon Laws in Louisiana, which forced free Black women to cover their elaborately styled hair with a tignon or scarf. (Legal Defense Fund, 2013) The purpose of these laws was clear ❉ to diminish their status and prevent them from attracting white men, visually asserting their subservient position.

(Legal Defense Fund, 2013) Yet, even then, Black women transformed these oppressive dictates into a new cultural movement, crafting ornate headwraps that became symbols of resistance and creativity. (Legal Defense Fund, 2013)

This historical struggle for hair autonomy continues today. The CROWN Act is a direct response to this legacy of discrimination, providing a necessary legal counterpoint to deeply ingrained biases. It reinforces the idea that hair texture and style, when historically associated with race, are an extension of racial identity and thus protected under anti-discrimination laws.

This fundamental shift in legal recognition allows for a broader acceptance and celebration of diverse hair heritage in schools and workplaces across the country. It signals a move towards a society where individuals are not forced to compromise their identity for opportunity.

Relay

The journey of the CROWN Act, from localized advocacy to a growing national movement, speaks to the enduring power of cultural identity in shaping legal frameworks. This legislation, while appearing modern in its context, is deeply rooted in centuries of Black hair heritage, a heritage marked by both oppression and unrelenting self-expression. The Act’s role is to rectify historical injustices, creating a legal landscape where the physical manifestations of Black and mixed-race identity are honored, not penalized.

Historically, the legal system in the United States often failed to recognize hair discrimination as a form of racial discrimination. Early cases, such as Rogers V. American Airlines in 1981, illustrate this gap. Renee Rogers, a Black flight attendant, challenged American Airlines’ policy against braids.

The court ruled that braids were “easily changed characteristics” and therefore not protected under Title VII of the Civil Rights Act, which prohibits employment discrimination based on race. (Library Guides, 2017) This ruling, which failed to grasp the deep cultural significance of braids for Black women, exemplified how legal interpretations often overlooked the interconnectedness of hair and racial identity. Similar rulings emerged from the case of Chastity Jones, who had a job offer rescinded due to her locs, with the court ruling that her locs were not an immutable racial characteristic. (Legal Defense Fund, 2018) These decisions, despite being deemed “stupid, but constitutional” by some, underscored the urgent need for clearer legal definitions. (Respect My CROWN, 2024)

How Does the CROWN Act Redefine Discrimination?

The CROWN Act fundamentally reshapes the legal understanding of racial discrimination by explicitly including “traits historically associated with race, including, but not limited to, hair texture and protective hairstyles such as braids, locs, twists, and knots.” (Official CROWN Act, 2019) This statutory protection directly addresses the shortcomings of previous civil rights legislation, which did not account for phenotypical markers of race beyond skin color. (Economic Policy Institute, 2023)

The impact of this redefinition is substantial. A 2023 research study revealed that Black women’s hair is 2.5 times more likely to be perceived as unprofessional. (Official CROWN Act, 2023) The study also found that approximately two-thirds of Black women (66%) change their hair for a job interview, with 41% altering their hair from curly to straight. (Official CROWN Act, 2023) The CROWN Act aims to dismantle these pressures, creating a society where individuals can show up authentically, without feeling compelled to mask their heritage for professional or educational opportunities.

This legal shift acknowledges the mental health toll imposed by hair discrimination. Research shows that constant microaggressions about hair contribute to internalized racism, anxiety, and a diminished sense of belonging. (Research, 2025; Psychology Today, 2023) When young Black children are disciplined in schools over natural or culturally significant hairstyles, it sends a damaging message about their self-worth. (Research, 2025) The CROWN Act, by providing legal recourse, seeks to alleviate this psychological burden, fostering an environment where individuals are not forced to compromise their identity for safety or acceptance.

The CROWN Act legislates a protective boundary around Black hair heritage, signaling a necessary shift in societal acceptance and legal standing.

The Journey of a Law ❉ From Local to National Aspirations

The CROWN Act began its legislative journey at the state level. California became the first state to sign the Act into law in 2019, extending protection under its Fair Employment and Housing Act and Education Code. (CROWN Act of 2022, 2022) Since then, over two dozen states have passed similar legislation. (Legal Defense Fund, 2024) The federal CROWN Act was introduced in the U.S.

House of Representatives by Congresswoman Bonnie Watson Coleman and a companion bill in the Senate by Senator Cory Booker. (CROWN Act of 2022, 2022) While the House passed the bill in 2022, it has yet to pass the Senate, highlighting the ongoing effort required to achieve nationwide protection. (CROWN Act of 2022, 2022)

This legislative progress, while uneven, marks a significant step. It reflects a growing recognition that hair discrimination is not merely a matter of personal preference or grooming policies, but a deeply ingrained form of racial discrimination. The Act, by explicitly defining and protecting traditional Black hairstyles, strengthens workers’ protections and ensures dignity and respect for cultural expression. (Economic Policy Institute, 2023) This movement also underscores the activism and community efforts that have been instrumental in pushing this legislation forward.

Organizations like the CROWN Coalition, co-founded by Dove, have played a central role in advocating for the bill’s passage, amplifying the voices of those directly affected by hair discrimination. (Official CROWN Act, 2019)

The CROWN Act serves as a testament to the fact that legal reform can, and must, catch up to lived realities. It is a legislative acknowledgment of the historical and cultural significance of textured hair, moving towards a future where the rich tapestry of Black hair heritage is celebrated universally, without fear of prejudice or economic disadvantage.

Reflection

The whispers of ancestors, the echoes of braiding circles, and the vibrant resilience of textured hair itself all find a voice in the dialogue surrounding the CROWN Act. This legislation is more than a simple law; it is a profound acknowledgement of a living, breathing archive of identity and spirit. For too long, the inherent beauty and cultural weight of Black and mixed-race hair were subject to external judgments, forced into narrow definitions of what was deemed “acceptable” or “professional.” This was a systemic assault on heritage, a quiet erosion of self, enacted through policies that punished natural expression.

The CROWN Act stands as a beacon, a legal testament to the truth that our hair is not merely a biological attribute but a sacred extension of who we are, where we come from, and the stories we carry. It invites a deeper understanding of textured hair as a locus of strength, creativity, and unbroken lineage. In every coil and kink, there is a connection to ancient wisdom, to resilience forged in fire, and to an unyielding determination to be seen, truly seen, in all our inherent glory.

It reminds us that protecting the right to wear our hair in its natural state, or in styles passed down through generations, is a fundamental act of preserving cultural memory. This is not just about changing rules; it is about changing hearts, minds, and the very landscape of belonging, ensuring that the soul of every strand is honored, now and for generations to come.