
Roots
The whisper of coiled strands, the resilient grace of textured hair, carries within it echoes of millennia. It is a living chronicle, stretching back to the dawn of humanity, deeply etched with ancestral practices and enduring cultural wisdom. As we stand at the precipice of understanding the oldest textured hair tool, we listen for the ancient voices, for the very first caress that shaped hair, not just for adornment, but for identity, for protection, for spiritual connection. The quest for this primal implement leads us not to a singular, isolated discovery, but to a profound recognition of African ingenuity and the sacred place hair held in early human societies.
The origin of hair care tools is intrinsically linked to the very biology of textured hair, which evolved as a natural shield against the sun’s intense ultraviolet radiation, allowing early humans to thrive in equatorial climates. This unique hair structure necessitated specific methods of care and styling, birthing the very first implements.
For too long, the history of human innovation has sometimes overlooked the daily, intimate acts of self-preservation and communal belonging. Yet, within the archaeological record, tucked away in ancient burial sites and unearthed from long-lost civilizations, we find tangible proof of an enduring human connection to hair. The narrative of early tools for textured hair begins in the fertile lands of Africa, specifically in the ancient kingdoms of Kemet, also known as Egypt, and Kush, or Nubia, in present-day Sudan. Here, far removed from modern complexities, evidence points to an implement that served both practical utility and deep symbolic purpose ❉ the comb.

What Did Early Textured Hair Need?
To truly grasp the significance of the earliest textured hair tool, we must first consider the physiological characteristics of coiled hair. Afro-textured hair, with its characteristic tightly coiled strands, spirals from the scalp in a dense pattern. This morphology provides efficient thermal regulation, allowing air to circulate near the scalp while shielding it from harsh sunlight. This structure, however, also presents unique challenges ❉ the coils are prone to tangling, and natural sebum struggles to travel down the entire strand, leading to dryness.
The earliest hair tools, therefore, needed to address these inherent properties. They were not merely cosmetic aids; they were instruments of care, hygiene, and ultimately, cultural expression.
The journey to uncover the oldest textured hair tool unveils a legacy of care and cultural significance rooted in ancient African civilizations.
The daily rituals of grooming, even in prehistoric times, were surely acts of mindful attention, practices that sustained health and prepared hair for symbolic adornment. These practices, passed down through generations, became interwoven with the very fabric of communal life and individual identity. The tools that enabled these practices were simple, crafted from readily available natural materials, yet they carried immense weight in their ability to maintain and celebrate textured hair.

Unearthing the First Combs and Hairpins
Archaeological findings consistently point to the comb as one of humanity’s earliest and most widespread hair implements. While rudimentary tools such as sharpened stones or shells might have been used for hair removal or very basic cutting in even more remote antiquity, the comb served the purpose of detangling, cleaning, and styling. Discoveries from ancient Egypt and Sudan offer compelling evidence of combs specifically designed for hair with a coarser texture, predating many other known hair accessories.
Consider the remarkable archaeological finds from the Predynastic Period of Egypt (circa 4500-2900 BC) and ancient Nubia. Excavations in sites like Mostagedda and Abydos, alongside discoveries in Kush, have yielded combs carved from materials such as bone and ivory. These implements, dating back some 6,000 to 7,000 years , often bear decorative motifs, suggesting their importance beyond mere functionality.
(Ashton, S.-A. 2011) This ancient Afro comb, with its distinctive long, wide teeth, was perfectly suited for navigating the dense, coiled structure of afro-textured hair, allowing for effective detangling and styling, even stretching roots for specific coiffures.
Beyond combs, hairpins too lay claim to an ancient lineage. Some historians suggest hairpins may have been used as far back as 30,000 BCE , with interpretations of prehistoric sculptures like the Venus of Willendorf hinting at beaded hair adornments. In Central Africa, hairpins crafted from animal bone, ivory, or wood were primarily functional, designed to secure hair.
The Egyptians also utilized hairpins, often ornamented with intricate designs, to maintain their elaborate wigs and hairstyles. While these pins certainly served a purpose in managing textured hair, the structural design of early combs, particularly the wider-toothed versions found in ancient African contexts, speaks more directly to the specific needs of coiled strands.
| Tool Type Comb |
| Material & Origin Bone, ivory, wood from ancient Kemet (Egypt) & Kush (Sudan) |
| Tool Type Hairpin |
| Material & Origin Bone, ivory, wood from Central Africa, stone from early European contexts |
| Tool Type Curling Tongs |
| Material & Origin Bronze from ancient Egypt |
| Tool Type The earliest tools, like combs, were crafted from natural materials, reflecting both necessity and deep cultural significance across diverse civilizations, with African innovations frequently addressing coiled hair. |
The presence of these combs in burial records, alongside individuals of varying status, indicates that hair grooming was a significant practice in life and even in the afterlife. The handles of these ancestral combs were sometimes adorned with symbols of status or natural elements, serving as visual testaments to their cultural value. This tangible evidence connects us directly to the hair rituals of our forebears, giving us a clearer understanding of how ancient hands cared for and celebrated textured hair.

Ritual
The earliest textured hair tool, often manifesting as the comb , was not a solitary instrument. It was a participant in a grand, ongoing ritual—a sequence of care, styling, and cultural expression that sustained communities through ages. From the intimate act of detangling to the elaborate construction of coiffures that communicated social standing, marital status, or spiritual beliefs, the comb played a central role.
Its presence speaks volumes about the value placed on hair within ancient African societies, where hair was rarely seen as mere fiber. It was a crown, a medium for storytelling, a connection to the divine.
Consider the reverence for hair within these civilizations. Ancestral knowledge, held deep within the collective memory, guided the application of natural ingredients and specific techniques. The comb, a seemingly simple object, facilitated these complex, intentional engagements with hair. It was used to section, to lift, to smooth, to adorn, making it a truly foundational piece of the textured hair toolkit.

How Did Early Combs Shape Community Practice?
The functional utility of the comb is undeniable ❉ it separates strands, removes debris, and assists in the application of emollients. Yet, its influence extends far beyond the purely practical. In many African cultures, hair care was, and in many places remains, a communal activity.
The act of tending another’s hair fostered bonds, transmitting knowledge, wisdom, and stories across generations. The comb, therefore, became a silent witness to these shared moments, a tangible link in the unbroken chain of ancestral practices.
Beyond its functional role, the ancient comb served as a conduit for communal bonding and the transmission of generational wisdom in textured hair care.
Such practices were not confined to the home. Hairstyles often signaled an individual’s identity within the broader social structure. For instance, in certain West African civilizations, different braid patterns would communicate a person’s marital status, social standing, or age.
The comb was essential for creating and maintaining these intricate, communicative styles. Its design, with its long, widely spaced teeth, suggests an understanding of the unique architecture of coiled hair, allowing for gentle yet effective manipulation.

Ancient Styling Techniques and Tools
The evolution of hair styling in ancient African societies saw the emergence of diverse techniques. Protective styles, such as intricate braids and twists, were not solely for aesthetic appeal; they offered protection from the elements, reduced tangling, and promoted length retention. The comb was an indispensable aid in creating these enduring styles, parting the hair with precision and assisting in the separation of strands.
Beyond combs, archaeological evidence from ancient Egypt indicates the use of other tools that speak to the sophistication of their hair practices. Bronze curling tongs, dating back over 3,000 years , have been found, suggesting the manipulation of hair texture for desired styles. Ancient Egyptians also utilized fat-based products, akin to modern hair gel, to hold coiffures in place, both in life and as part of mummification rituals. This speaks to a holistic approach to hair management, where tools, products, and techniques worked in concert.
- Sectioning Combs ❉ Used to divide hair into precise segments for braiding or styling.
- Detangling Picks ❉ Featuring wide teeth to gently loosen knots in coiled strands.
- Decorative Pins ❉ Utilized to adorn and secure elaborate updos and braided designs.
The craftsmanship of these early combs was often exquisite. Many ancient combs from Kemet and Kush were carved from durable materials like wood, bone, or ivory, often adorned with animal motifs such as birds, bull horns, or hippopotamuses. This decorative element suggests that the tools themselves were viewed as objects of beauty and spiritual significance, not just utilitarian items. Their presence in graves alongside the deceased further underscores their profound cultural and personal importance.

Relay
The story of the oldest textured hair tool stretches beyond its initial creation, cascading through generations as a testament to ancestral resilience and cultural continuity. The comb, born of necessity and elevated by artistry, has been relayed through time, bearing witness to both moments of profound pride and periods of calculated suppression. This enduring presence highlights the deeply embedded connection between textured hair, its care, and the enduring human spirit, especially within the Black and mixed-race diaspora.
This relay of knowledge and practice speaks to the innate understanding our ancestors possessed regarding hair’s unique structure and its requirements. It is a scientific acumen passed down through observational practice, honed over millennia. The long-toothed comb, for instance, perfectly aligns with modern understanding of how to reduce breakage in highly coiling hair by minimizing friction and distributing tension.

What Can We Learn From Ancient Hair Offerings?
The historical record reveals that hair held significant ritualistic and spiritual meaning in ancient Egypt. Archaeological discoveries have brought to light hair offerings in various forms, including braided locks and wigs, found in tombs dating as far back as the Predynastic Period (circa 4500-2900 BC). These findings, unearthed in locations like Mostagedda, Abydos, and Naga el-Deir, suggest a belief in hair’s potency, its connection to identity and regeneration, even in the afterlife. The presence of hair, sometimes contained within clay balls or plaques, speaks to its protective and symbolic value beyond mere aesthetic.
The enduring legacy of the comb exemplifies how cultural tools preserve ancient wisdom and practices across generations.
The meticulous preparation of hair, sometimes with styling products like fat-based gels found on mummies, indicates a sophisticated understanding of hair maintenance and preservation, not just for earthly presentation but for eternal existence. The tools used in these elaborate preparations, especially the combs, were not just instruments of grooming but integral components of sacred rituals, reflecting a societal reverence for hair that permeated all strata, including royalty. A notable example is a lock of hair belonging to Queen Tiye discovered within Tutankhamun’s tomb.

How Did Hair Tools Become Symbols of Resistance?
The historical journey of textured hair tools, particularly the Afro comb, took a poignant turn with the advent of the transatlantic slave trade. Enslaved Africans faced systematic attempts to strip them of their cultural identity, including forced head shaving. This act aimed to sever connections to ancestral practices and devalue hair that did not conform to European beauty standards.
Yet, traditions endured. Braids became maps for escape, and the knowledge of hair care persisted, often through whispered rituals and improvised tools.
The enduring spirit of the Afro comb resurfaced powerfully during the 20th century’s Civil Rights and Black Power movements. The wide-toothed comb, often adorned with the iconic “black fist” symbol, transformed into a potent emblem of pride and political statement. It was worn openly in Afros, proclaiming a celebration of Black identity and a defiance of oppressive beauty norms.
This shift underscores how an ancient tool can acquire new layers of meaning, serving as a beacon of cultural affirmation and a visible rejection of imposed ideologies. (Tulloch, 2016)
- Ancestral Adornment ❉ Ancient combs used for shaping culturally significant coiffures.
- Symbol of Defiance ❉ The Afro comb’s re-emergence as an emblem of Black Power.
- Continued Connection ❉ Modern textured hair tools reflecting ancient needs for care.
This reclamation of the comb, adapting its design to contemporary materials like plastic and metal while retaining its core functionality, mirrors the resilience of textured hair itself. It is a living artifact, a bridge connecting the earliest human civilizations to present-day expressions of identity and self-acceptance. The unbroken chain of its utility and symbolism speaks to a deep, unchanging heritage that continues to resonate through every strand.

Reflection
As we close this chapter on the oldest textured hair tool, we are left not with a definitive end, but with a profound continuation. The humble comb, born from the intuitive understanding of ancient hands tending to coiled strands, stands as a testament to ingenuity, cultural richness, and unwavering resilience. Its journey from the earliest settlements of Kemet and Kush to the vibrant expressions of identity in our modern world is a living archive, breathing with the wisdom of generations. We perceive how the essence of hair, its structure, its care, and its symbolic weight, has remained a constant thread through the human story.
The tools we employ today for our textured hair, however sophisticated, carry the echoes of those first carved bones and smoothed woods, reminding us that care is a legacy, and beauty is rooted in ancestry. Each stroke of a wide-toothed comb connects us to a continuous lineage, where every strand tells a story of survival, artistry, and an enduring soul.

References
- Ashton, Sally-Ann. “African Combs ❉ The History of the African Comb.” The Fitzwilliam Museum, University of Cambridge, 2011.
- Tulloch, Carol. “The Afro Comb ❉ Revisited.” International Journal of Fashion Studies, vol. 3, no. 2, 2016, pp. 241-260.
- McCreesh, Natalie. “Ancient Egyptians Used ‘Hair Gel’.” Nature Middle East, 23 August 2011.
- Harmand, Sonia. “3.3-Million-Year-Old Stone Tools from Lomekwi 3, West Turkana, Kenya.” Nature, vol. 521, no. 7552, 21 May 2015, pp. 310-315.
- Georges, Elizabeth. “Hair in African Art and Culture.” The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2001.
- Gordon, Mark. “The History of African Hair.” The Gale Review, 23 November 2021.
- Newman, Lyda D. “Hair-Brush.” U.S. Patent 614,335, issued November 15, 1898.
- Stephens, Theora. “Pressing and Curling Iron.” U.S. Patent 4,228,811, issued October 21, 1980.
- Marshall, Amandine. “The Magic and Power of Hair in Ancient Egypt.” The Past, 20 February 2025.