What is the historical significance of specific oils in textured hair traditions?

Roots

There are narratives etched not just in the annals of history, but in the very curl, the very coil, the very strand of hair that crowns us. For individuals of textured hair heritage, the story of oils is an ancestral whisper, a continuity stretching back through millennia. It speaks of survival, adornment, community, and an intimate kinship with the earth’s bounty. This exploration delves into how specific botanical oils shaped, shielded, and celebrated textured hair, serving as a testament to the enduring wisdom passed from elder to child, across continents and generations.

Hair’s Elemental Blueprint and Ancestral Insight

The structure of textured hair is a marvel of biological design. Its unique helical shape, often characterized by intricate bends and twists, inherently presents a challenge to the natural sebum produced by the scalp in its journey down the hair shaft. This anatomical reality means textured hair often experiences greater dryness and is more prone to breakage than straighter hair types.

Recognizing this innate characteristic, ancestral communities developed sophisticated haircare practices, deeply rooted in their environments, long before modern science articulated the lipid barrier or cuticle integrity. They understood through observation and generations of experiential learning that certain oils provided essential lubrication and protection.

Early uses of oils were not merely cosmetic; they were deeply interwoven with health, social status, and spiritual belief. In many ancient African societies, hair was a sacred symbol, its styling communicating marital status, age, religion, wealth, or societal rank (Byrd and Tharps, 2021). The care of hair, therefore, transcended simple hygiene, becoming a ritualistic act of identity preservation and community bonding.

Ancient Oils and Their Enduring Significance

Castor oil, a substance perhaps most widely known today for its purported hair growth properties, claims an ancient lineage. Its presence dates to Egyptian tombs from 4,000 B.C. with evidence of cultivation in central Egypt around 500 B.C. Here, it found use in cosmetics, medicines, and even as lamp oil.

The Ebers Papyrus, an Egyptian medical text from before 1500 BCE, devotes an entire chapter to the castor bean, detailing its use as a remedy for baldness, among other ailments (Cimmino, 2023). In regions like Sudan, Tanzania, and Kenya, castor oil held higher esteem than popular sesame oil and was valued above olive oil (Qhemet Biologics, 2024). This widespread ancient use across Africa underscores its foundational role in traditional hair and body care, valued for its ability to treat various skin, scalp, and hair conditions. Its unique chemical makeup, containing ricinoleic acid, allows it to draw and seal in moisture, making it particularly effective for coily and afro-textured hair (Qhemet Biologics, 2024).

The historical presence of specific oils in textured hair care is a testament to ancient communities’ profound understanding of hair’s needs and its cultural significance.

Shea butter, often hailed as “women’s gold,” represents another cornerstone of traditional African haircare. Derived from the nuts of the Karite tree, which grows abundantly in the Sahel belt stretching across West and East Africa, its usage extends back as far as Queen Cleopatra’s reign (Rovang, 2024). Archaeological findings in Burkina Faso indicate that local residents processed shea nuts since at least A.D. 100, a thousand years earlier than previously assumed (Gallagher, 2016).

For centuries, women utilized shea butter to protect their skin from harsh environmental conditions and to nourish and moisturize hair. Across many African communities, this butter is considered a sacred symbol of fertility, protection, and purity (Elias, 2024). Its rich composition, packed with vitamins A, E, and F, offers moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and even some UV protective qualities (Rovang, 2024).

Palm oil and palm kernel oil were also widely used for oiling the scalp and hair in West and Central African nations (Wikipedia, 2024). The local availability of natural resources consistently dictated the specific ingredients used, leading to diverse yet equally effective traditional techniques across the continent (Rovang, 2024).

How Did Ancestral Understanding Shape Haircare?

Ancestral practices surrounding oils and textured hair were not random. They were often rooted in a deep, intuitive understanding of the hair’s needs and the environment’s impact. In hot, dry climates, oils and butters were essential for keeping hair moisturized, frequently paired with protective styles to maintain length and health (Cécred, 2025). The Basara Arab women of Chad, for example, are renowned for their tradition of using Chébé Powder, a mixture of herbs and seeds, often blended with oils or butters.

This preparation, applied to damp, sectioned hair and then braided, is believed to aid in length retention by filling hair shaft spaces and sealing the cuticle, thereby preventing breakage (Rovang, 2024; Chebe Powder Co. 2025). This ancestral practice, passed down through generations, highlights a clear focus on strengthening the hair shaft and minimizing split ends, allowing natural hair to grow longer without breaking off (Chebe Powder Co. 2025).

This early knowledge of botanical properties and their interaction with hair’s unique structure laid the groundwork for the rich heritage of textured hair care, a legacy that continues to influence modern practices and product development.

Ritual

The application of specific oils within textured hair traditions evolved into intricate rituals, transcending simple conditioning. These practices were often communal, fostering bonds and transmitting cultural knowledge from one generation to the next. The significance of oiling extended to preparing hair for various styles, protecting it from the elements, and conveying identity through the meticulous adornment of braids, twists, and locs.

Styling Techniques and Oil’s Protective Cloak

Across Africa, styling textured hair was a highly skilled craft, often requiring hours of dedication. Oils were integral to this process, not just for lubrication but for their role in making hair more pliable and less prone to breakage during manipulation. The concept of Protective Styling, deeply rooted in ancestral practices, relied heavily on the application of oils and butters.

These styles, such as braids, cornrows, and twists, shield the hair ends and minimize daily wear and tear. Oils were worked into the hair and scalp before or during these styling sessions to seal in moisture and provide a protective barrier against environmental aggressors like sun and dust (Cécred, 2025; Design Essentials, 2024).

Consider the historical context of hair threading, known as “Irun Kiko” among the Yoruba people of Nigeria. This 15th-century practice involved using flexible wool, cotton, or rubber threads to wrap hair sections into corkscrew patterns (Rovang, 2024). Oils and butters would have been vital in preparing the hair for this intricate manipulation, ensuring flexibility and preventing tangles.

The threaded hair was then twisted and adorned with cowrie shells and beads, which indicated social class and personal style (Rovang, 2024). The oils provided the foundation for these elaborate cultural expressions.

Oils served as more than conditioners; they were essential allies in the creation and preservation of protective styles, reflecting cultural identity and social standing.

The Diaspora’s Resilient Adaptation

The transatlantic slave trade presented a brutal rupture in these established traditions. Kidnapped Africans were stripped of their ancestral hair tools and herbal treatments upon arrival in the Americas, their hair often shaved as an act of dehumanization (Byrd and Tharps, 2021). Yet, the ingenuity and resilience of enslaved peoples ensured that haircare practices persisted, albeit with stark limitations. They adapted, relying on whatever was available, including cooking grease like Lard, Butter, and Goose Grease as makeshift moisturizers (Wikipedia, 2024; Odele Beauty, 2021).

This period underscores the critical need for emollients in textured hair care, even when traditional options were forcibly removed. The deep-seated understanding of oils’ importance meant their use continued, even in drastically altered forms.

The unique properties of Jamaican Black Castor Oil (JBCO) exemplify this resilience. The castor bean, native to East Africa, traveled to Jamaica via the slave trade (Beautycon.com, 2023). In Jamaica, a traditional method of roasting the beans before pressing them gave rise to JBCO, distinguished by its dark color and smoky scent (Beautycon.com, 2023; Prose Hair, 2022). This specific processing method creates an oil believed to be more effective than clear castor oil, with a higher ash content thought to enhance its beneficial properties, particularly for scalp circulation and strengthening hair strands (Beautycon.com, 2023; Prose Hair, 2022).

JBCO became a staple in Caribbean communities, celebrated for its ability to moisturize, thicken, and strengthen hair, reducing breakage and addressing scalp issues (Beautycon.com, 2023). Its widespread use highlights a continuation of ancestral knowledge, adapted and fortified in a new cultural context.

• Castor Oil ❉ Applied to scalp and hair for lubrication during braiding and twisting, known to stimulate hair growth.
• Shea Butter ❉ Used as a base for hair preparations, providing moisture and protection from environmental elements.
• Palm Oil ❉ A traditional choice for scalp oiling, supporting overall hair health in West African communities.

The Evolution of Tools and Application

The ritual of oiling was often intertwined with other haircare tools and techniques. Hand massaging oils into the scalp was, and remains, a common practice to stimulate circulation and distribute the product. This practice, often a bonding experience between family members, especially elders and children, underscored the communal and nurturing aspects of hair care (Cécred, 2025). The transition from traditional wooden combs to modern implements did not diminish the role of oils; rather, it often highlighted their necessity in detangling and smoothing the hair before or after styling.

The historical journey of oils in textured hair traditions speaks to a profound cultural adaptation and continuity. From the elaborate styling rituals of ancient African kingdoms to the resourceful adaptations during enslavement and the subsequent evolution of diaspora-specific practices, oils have remained a constant. They represent not just a physical aid to hair health, but a living connection to heritage, resilience, and the enduring beauty of textured hair.

Relay

The story of oils in textured hair traditions is a living archive, a relay race of wisdom passed through time, intertwining ancestral practices with evolving scientific understanding. Modern research frequently offers insights that explain the efficacy of remedies known intuitively for centuries, grounding ancient rituals in contemporary biochemical language. This deep understanding, combining both perspectives, honors the legacy of textured hair care.

Validating Ancestral Wisdom With Modern Science

The choice of specific oils by ancestral communities was often remarkably astute, a testament to empirical knowledge gained over generations. Take Castor Oil, for instance. Beyond its historical use for baldness and general hair preparations (Cimmino, 2023), modern scientific inquiry points to its unique composition. It is the only oil containing a significant amount of ricinoleic acid, an unsaturated omega-9 fatty acid (Qhemet Biologics, 2024).

This particular acid is believed to increase blood flow to the scalp, potentially stimulating hair growth, reducing shedding, and strengthening follicles (Qhemet Biologics, 2024; Prose Hair, 2022). Its humectant properties, allowing it to draw moisture to the hair and seal it within the strand, are particularly beneficial for the dryness-prone nature of textured hair (Qhemet Biologics, 2024; Yuaia Haircare, 2024).

Another powerful example is Shea Butter. Its traditional use as a moisturizer and protective agent finds scientific backing in its rich content of fatty acids like stearic and oleic acids, alongside a substantial unsaponifiable fraction of bioactive substances (Ugbogu et al. 2016). These components contribute to its emollient, anti-inflammatory, and protective qualities, validating its historical application for hair and skin health (Ugbogu et al.

2016; Rovang, 2024). The ability of shea butter to restore moisture lost due to various treatments and its protective qualities against environmental damage align with its centuries-old role in African communities (Ugbogu et al. 2016).

Bridging Tradition and Modernity for Hair Health

The contemporary natural hair movement, a continuation of the “Black is Beautiful” and “Nappy movement” from earlier decades (Being Black, 2024), has seen a resurgence of interest in traditional oils and practices. This shift embraces cultural authenticity, often seeing the use of indigenous oils as an act of resistance against Eurocentric beauty ideals (BeautyMatter, 2025). For instance, while Jojoba Oil originated in indigenous American cultures, its functional similarities to human sebum made it resonate deeply with Black beauty traditions (BeautyMatter, 2025; Tangle Teezer, 2024).

Its adoption in Black haircare routines in the 1970s, coinciding with a broader environmental shift, highlights a selective integration of beneficial natural elements into existing heritage practices (BeautyMatter, 2025). Jojoba oil’s capacity to hydrate from the inside out and seal in moisture makes it highly suitable for textured hair (Tangle Teezer, 2024).

The traditional application of Chébé powder from Chad, often mixed with oils or butters, offers a unique case study in length retention. The Basara Arab women of Chad are noted for their exceptionally long hair, attributing it to consistent use of this blend (Chebe Powder Co. 2025; Rovang, 2024). Chébé powder helps prevent breakage and locks in moisture, crucial for coily hair types prone to dryness (Chebe Powder Co.

2025). This practice does not directly stimulate hair growth from the scalp but rather preserves length by strengthening the hair shaft and improving elasticity, allowing the hair to grow longer over time without breaking off (Chebe Powder Co. 2025).

The historical significance of oils in textured hair traditions is continually affirmed by modern scientific understanding, bridging ancient practices with contemporary hair care.

Holistic Care and Oil’s Role

The understanding of oils in textured hair care has always extended beyond mere superficial application. It often incorporates a holistic perspective on well-being. This perspective recognizes that hair health is connected to internal factors and overall care rituals.

The practice of oiling, especially when coupled with scalp massages, is known to promote blood flow, which in turn delivers essential nutrients to hair follicles (Prose Hair, 2022). This insight was intuitively understood by ancestral communities who regularly engaged in these rituals, often as part of bonding experiences within families (Cécred, 2025).

Consider the broader context of traditional African haircare methods that include the use of raw butters, oils, and animal fats. Women of Ethiopian and Somali descent, for example, have maintained excellent hair health using a homemade mixture of whipped animal milk and water, effectively a hair butter (Reddit, 2021). The Himba Tribe of Namibia coats their hair in red clay, a practice that, while perhaps counterintuitive to some modern approaches, appears to yield positive results for their hair (Reddit, 2021).

What do Dermatological Studies Indicate about Traditional Oils for Textured Hair?

Recent systematic reviews have examined popular commercial hair oils culturally rooted in Indian and African heritages, such as coconut, castor, and argan oils (Phong et al. 2022). While recognizing the deep cultural practices, such studies aim to substantiate claims regarding hair growth, quality, and treatment of conditions (Phong et al. 2022).

For instance, coconut oil has shown evidence in treating brittle hair and hair infestation, though limited evidence exists for its impact on hair growth. Castor oil shows weaker evidence for improving hair quality by increasing luster, with no strong evidence for growth or infestation treatment (Phong et al. 2022). Argan oil, while popular, lacks significant evidence for improving growth or quality in these reviews (Phong et al.

2022). This scientific lens helps refine understanding, but it does not diminish the heritage value or centuries of practical success observed within communities.

The journey of oils in textured hair traditions is a powerful reminder of how heritage informs contemporary understanding. It highlights the sophistication of ancestral knowledge and the enduring relevance of natural ingredients, inspiring ongoing dialogue between historical wisdom and scientific discovery.

Reflection

To stand at this precipice of understanding, looking back through the epochs of textured hair, is to sense the profound continuity of existence. The oils — the very liquids pressed from earth’s yielding fruits and seeds — are not merely products in a jar. They are liquid histories, each drop holding the memory of hands that kneaded, warmed, and applied them; of heads adorned, protected, and revered. This long journey of oils in textured hair traditions is a living archive, breathing with the ancestral wisdom of generations who intimately understood their strands, their environment, and their inherent connection to both.

The enduring significance of these specific oils is a whisper from the past, a guide for the present, and a promise for the future. It speaks to resilience, to the ingenuity of adapting to new landscapes while clinging to core practices, and to the unwavering dedication to self-preservation and communal identity. As we look upon our textured hair today, we recognize the echoes of ancient hands, the resilience of those who found moisture where there was scarcity, and the profound beauty in a heritage that continued to flourish despite every effort to diminish it. Each application of oil becomes a quiet ritual, a personal reconnection to a legacy of care, wisdom, and strength—a living strand in the boundless heritage of textured hair.