
Roots
Imagine a strand of hair, not merely a biological filament, but a living archive, holding whispers of generations, a testament to ancient earth and ancestral wisdom. For textured hair, this connection is particularly strong, woven into the very fabric of identity and continuity. What we consume, the sustenance drawn from the soil and shared within community, has always shaped our physical selves, hair included. This exploration seeks to uncover the enduring link between diet and the remarkable resilience of textured hair, viewed always through the prism of heritage.
The journey begins with the fundamental structure of textured hair itself, a marvel of biological engineering. Each curl, coil, or wave possesses a unique elliptical cross-section, a characteristic that lends it both its beauty and its inherent susceptibility to dryness. This inherent shape dictates how lipids and moisture move along the shaft, often leaving the ends more vulnerable.
From a heritage standpoint, the wisdom of our forebears understood this, even without modern microscopes. Their practices, often steeped in the bounty of their lands, intuitively addressed these structural needs.
The ancestral understanding of body and being saw no stark division between internal nourishment and external vitality. A vibrant diet was considered a cornerstone of overall well-being, naturally extending to hair health. The very proteins, vitamins, and minerals that built strong bodies also forged resilient hair. In many ancient African communities, dietary practices were intertwined with rites and communal living.
Think of the rich, nutrient-dense foods that sustained these populations ❉ diverse grains, robust legumes, and vibrant leafy greens. These foods provided essential amino acids, the building blocks of keratin, the protein that forms the hair shaft. They offered vitamins, like the B-complex group, which play a role in cellular regeneration within the hair follicle. Minerals, such as iron and zinc, were present in the traditional fare, recognized today for their impact on hair growth and strength.
(Dharwadkar, 2024; Almohanna et al. 2019)
Ancestral diets, rich in varied plant and sometimes animal sources, established the biochemical foundation for textured hair’s inherent strength.

How do Historical Diets Align with Hair’s Elemental Composition?
Hair, at its core, comprises protein, roughly 90% of its composition, primarily keratin. This protein requires a steady supply of amino acids, derived directly from the protein we consume. Historical African diets, varying across regions, commonly featured sources that supplied these necessary components. West Africans, for instance, relied on staples such as millet, sorghum, yams, and black-eyed peas, often prepared in spiced stew meals augmented with vegetables, sometimes with fish or meat.
(Carney & Rosomoff, 2011, p. 7; McCann, 2009) These staples provided a robust nutritional profile.
Consider the profound role of vitamins and minerals. Iron, a mineral crucial for oxygen transport to hair follicles, was plentiful in many traditional African green leafy vegetables. Zinc, a component in protein synthesis and cell division, was present in grains and legumes.
Biotin, a B vitamin supporting keratin production, could be found in whole grains and certain fruits. The historical availability of these nutrients through diverse, minimally processed food systems speaks to a profound ecological wisdom.
The classifications of textured hair, while a modern construct, find a subtle echo in the historical observation of hair’s varied responses to environment and diet. Our ancestors recognized that hair differed from person to person, often influenced by lineage and regional conditions. Though formal typing systems did not exist, practices adapted to the specific needs of hair types within communities, acknowledging that some hair might demand more oiling, some more moisture, a spectrum of needs shaped by both genetic makeup and the dietary staples of the land.

What Ancestral Foods Nourished Hair’s Vital Cycles?
The life cycle of a hair strand—its growth, resting, and shedding phases—is profoundly influenced by internal biochemistry. A consistent supply of specific nutrients supports healthy follicular activity and minimizes breakage. Historically, communities relied on foods that naturally supported these cycles. For instance, the baobab tree, native to Africa, yields oil from its seeds abundant in vitamins A, D, E, and F, alongside omega fatty acids.
These nutrients moisturize, strengthen, and mend dry, brittle hair, improving elasticity and averting breakage. (AYANAE, 2024)
Another example exists in the traditional West African diet, where the inclusion of okra , fufu (made from yam or cassava), and leafy greens such as ewedu and spinach were daily components. (Corporate Knights, 2024) These foods are nutrient-dense, providing vitamins, minerals, and fiber that contribute to overall health, which directly influences the vitality of hair. The communal cultivation and sharing of such foods meant that dietary sustenance was a collective endeavor, reinforcing the communal aspect of well-being, hair health included.
| Nutrient Protein (Amino Acids) |
| Ancestral Food Sources Millet, Sorghum, Legumes (Black-eyed Peas, Cowpeas), Fish, Lean Meats |
| Hair Resilience Contribution Structural building blocks of keratin; supports hair strength and growth. |
| Nutrient Iron |
| Ancestral Food Sources Dark Leafy Greens (Spinach, Kale), Beans, Lentils, Organ Meats |
| Hair Resilience Contribution Transports oxygen to hair follicles, essential for growth and health. |
| Nutrient Zinc |
| Ancestral Food Sources Whole Grains, Legumes, Nuts (Pumpkin Seeds), Seafood, Meat |
| Hair Resilience Contribution Aids in protein synthesis and cell division for follicular health; helps prevent breakage. |
| Nutrient B Vitamins (e.g. Biotin) |
| Ancestral Food Sources Whole Grains, Eggs, Nuts, Leafy Greens, Sweet Potatoes |
| Hair Resilience Contribution Supports keratin production, cellular regeneration, and metabolism for strong hair. |
| Nutrient Omega Fatty Acids |
| Ancestral Food Sources Baobab Oil, Palm Oil, Certain Seeds, Fatty Fish |
| Hair Resilience Contribution Lubricates the hair shaft, moisturizes the scalp, reduces dryness and brittleness. |
| Nutrient These dietary components represent a legacy of nourishment, intrinsically linked to the enduring strength and vitality of textured hair across generations. |

Ritual
Hair care in ancestral communities was rarely a solitary act; it was a ritual, a communal gathering often involving stories, songs, and the shared application of natural remedies. This extended beyond topical treatments to the very foods consumed, recognizing that resilience stemmed from both inner vitality and outward care. The link between diet and textured hair’s strength becomes particularly apparent when examining these historical styling practices, which often required hair to be in a certain state of health to hold intricate designs.
Protective styles, such as braids, twists, and cornrows, have a profound ancestral lineage. These styles served not only as expressions of identity, marital status, or tribal affiliation but also as practical methods for preserving hair length and minimizing environmental damage. For such styles to hold, and for the hair to endure the tension and manipulation, a degree of internal strength and elasticity was paramount.
This strength was supplied by the very nutrients discussed previously – sufficient protein for keratin integrity, and minerals like zinc for structural support. (AYANAE, 2024; The African American Registry, 2023)
Many traditional hair care practices involved ingredients also used in their diets, blurring the lines between internal and external nourishment. For instance, shea butter, revered for its conditioning properties, was also a dietary fat in many West African communities. Coconut oil, another staple, found its way into both kitchens and cosmetic preparations. This dual purpose underscores a holistic worldview where the same bounty of the earth fed the body and nourished the hair.
Traditional styling rituals relied on internal hair health, a direct reflection of historical dietary practices, to maintain their intricate forms and longevity.

How Did Traditional Styling Techniques Demonstrate Dietary Influence?
The intricate braiding patterns, some speculated to have served as maps for escape during enslavement, or to signify social standing (University of Salford Students’ Union, 2024; Creative Support, 2022), demanded hair that was pliable, strong, and resistant to breakage. A diet rich in protein, amino acids, and essential fatty acids contributed to this desired texture. Hair that received ample internal nourishment was more likely to retain moisture, possess better elasticity, and resist snapping under the manipulation of styling.
Contrast this with the stark reality of the transatlantic slave trade. Enslaved Africans, stripped of their cultural practices, also suffered severe malnutrition. (African American Museum of Iowa, 2023) The forced diet, often lacking diverse nutrients, inevitably impacted hair health.
Accounts suggest enslaved people resorted to crude and damaging methods to manage their hair, using materials like lard and lye, simply because their traditional tools and nourishing ingredients were unavailable and their bodies were starved of essential nutrients. (Library of Congress, 2021) This period provides a stark contrast, highlighting the profound deterioration of hair resilience when adequate diet and traditional care systems were disrupted.

What Ancestral Tools and Materials Aligned with Hair’s Dietary Needs?
The tools of ancestral hair care—combs carved from wood or bone, simple picks—worked in concert with topical applications derived from the same natural environments that yielded their food. These were not aggressive implements but gentle extensions of the hand, designed to work with the hair’s natural inclinations, especially when softened and strengthened by natural emollients and the right internal environment.
Consider the use of Chebe powder by the Basara women of Chad. This powder, a blend of cherry seeds, cloves, lavender crotons, and other organic elements, is mixed with oil and applied to the hair, often braided, to promote length retention and strength. (AYANAE, 2024; Firstpost Africa, 2024) While a topical treatment, the very understanding of these ingredients, and their application, stems from an interconnected relationship with the earth and its offerings, many of which also had medicinal or dietary uses. This traditional practice underscores the idea that what is good for the body, cultivated from the land, holds goodness for the hair too.
- Shea Butter ❉ A traditional West African fat, used both in cooking and as a highly effective moisturizer and sealant for hair and skin.
- Coconut Oil ❉ A common dietary oil in many tropical regions, also used as a hair conditioner and scalp treatment.
- Baobab Oil ❉ Derived from the African baobab tree, rich in vitamins and fatty acids beneficial for both consumption and hair health.
- Plantain Skins/Cocoa Pods ❉ Used in the making of African Black Soap, which cleansed hair gently without stripping its natural oils, supplying minerals like potassium and magnesium, alongside vitamins A and E. (Africa Imports, 2024)
The absence of harsh chemicals in historical hair care, directly linked to the utilization of natural ingredients, speaks to a heritage of preservation. These communities understood that the hair’s integrity relied on working with nature, not against it. A well-nourished body supported hair that required minimal intervention, maintaining its integrity and strength through gentle, consistent care. This harmony of internal diet and external ritual sustained generations of vibrant, resilient textured hair.

Relay
The echoes of ancestral dietary wisdom continue to resonate in contemporary scientific understanding. The link between internal nourishment and hair resilience, once understood through observation and shared cultural knowledge, now finds validation in biochemical studies and clinical data. This section delves into how diet, from ancient foodways to modern nutritional insights, relays its power to the very structure and vitality of textured hair, particularly within Black and mixed-race experiences.
Consider the critical roles of specific micronutrients. Iron, for instance, is absolutely necessary for the hair growth cycle. It enables red blood cells to transport oxygen to hair follicles, a process essential for their proper function and growth. (Ducray, 2024) Historically, African diets, often rich in leafy greens, beans, and certain traditional meats, supplied ample iron.
However, the forced dietary shifts during the transatlantic slave trade and subsequent systemic disparities meant many Black communities experienced nutritional deficiencies. Studies indicate that iron deficiency is three times more common in African Americans than in whites. (TheHub.news, 2023) This deficiency can lead to significant hair thinning and loss, underscoring a direct, historical impact of disrupted food systems on hair health within the diaspora.
Modern science affirms ancestral wisdom ❉ optimal hair resilience arises from a body nourished by diverse, nutrient-rich foods, particularly those abundant in traditional heritage diets.

What Scientific Findings Reinforce Ancestral Dietary Practices?
Scientific inquiry into hair biology consistently points to the importance of a balanced diet for hair structure and growth. Proteins, as the backbone of keratin, are foundational. When protein intake is insufficient, hair can become brittle, leading to breakage and reduced growth. (Dharwadkar, 2024) Ancestral diets, with their reliance on protein-rich legumes, grains, and often lean animal sources, inherently supported strong hair.
Beyond protein, micronutrients play their own significant part.
- Zinc ❉ This mineral is a cofactor for enzymes involved in keratin synthesis and cell division within hair follicles. Its deficiency can weaken hair, making it prone to breakage and shedding. Studies have shown lower zinc concentrations in individuals experiencing hair loss conditions, including those affecting textured hair. (Almohanna et al. 2019; My Hair Doctor, 2022)
- Biotin (Vitamin B7) ❉ Biotin is crucial for keratin production, which forms the structural basis of hair, skin, and nails. A lack of biotin can cause hair to become weak, brittle, and susceptible to shedding. (Plantigo, 2024; The Times of India, 2025) While severe biotin deficiency is rare, consistent intake supports the regeneration of hair cells.
- Omega-3 Fatty Acids ❉ These fats are essential for maintaining scalp health and hair hydration. Traditional diets rich in certain seeds, nuts, and fish would have supplied these beneficial fats, contributing to hair’s natural sheen and flexibility.
The very concept of a “topical nutrition,” as observed in some African traditional hair treatments, speaks to a localized understanding of hair’s dietary needs. (Cosmetopoeia of African Plants, 2024) While modern science often separates oral intake from topical application, the historical practices demonstrate an intuitive integration, where the same plants used for medicinal or nutritional purposes were also applied directly to the scalp and hair, contributing their therapeutic compounds.

How Have Historical Dietary Disruptions Influenced Hair Resilience?
The forced migration of enslaved Africans to the Americas stands as a profound historical disruption, not only to cultural practices but also to dietary norms. Stripped of their indigenous food systems, enslaved people were often provided meager, nutritionally inadequate rations. This shift from diverse, nutrient-rich diets to monotonous, calorie-deficient sustenance had direct implications for physical health, including the hair.
The concept of a direct link between dietary shifts and hair health has been documented. For instance, in the context of the African diaspora, the decline of hair health and prevalence of certain scalp conditions can be connected to the shift away from diverse traditional foodways. The historical context of malnutrition among enslaved populations would have undoubtedly contributed to widespread issues of brittle hair, stunted growth, and increased shedding, as their bodies lacked the essential building blocks for resilient strands. (African American Museum of Iowa, 2023)
A compelling statistic highlights the enduring impact of these historical disparities. A study of 874 adults in South Africa found that traction alopecia, a form of hair loss caused by tension on hair follicles, was detected in 32% of women. (WeSeeColor, 2024) While styling practices are a direct cause, the underlying resilience of the hair—its ability to withstand such tension—is intrinsically linked to its internal health, which is a reflection of consistent nutritional intake.
A lack of adequate protein, iron, and zinc can render hair weaker and more prone to damage under stress, thereby exacerbating the effects of tight hairstyles. This statistic, while contemporary, speaks to a lineage of hair vulnerability that has roots in historical dietary deficiencies and the need to adapt to limited resources, leading to practices that, without optimal hair health, could cause damage.
The resilience of textured hair, therefore, is not merely a matter of genetics. It is a testament to the complex interplay of inherited traits and environmental factors, with diet standing as a powerful mediating force. Reclaiming and understanding traditional African food systems, rich in minimally processed or unprocessed plant-based foods, is increasingly recognized as a path towards enhanced global food security and nutrition. (Frontiers, 2025) This scientific validation of heritage eating patterns offers a compelling argument for their revitalization, not only for overall well-being but specifically for the strength and beauty of textured hair.

Reflection
The journey through the intricate dance of diet and textured hair resilience brings us back to the heart of Roothea’s ‘Soul of a Strand’ ethos. It reminds us that our hair is more than an adornment; it is a living chronicle, a vibrant extension of our ancestral lineage, a testament to endurance. The historical link between what we eat and the vitality of our textured hair is not a forgotten tale but a living legacy, informing our present choices and shaping our future narratives.
Through eras of abundant ancestral diets, through periods of forced scarcity, and into our modern understanding, hair has whispered its truths. It has shown us that its strength, its very ability to curl and coil with spirited resistance, is deeply intertwined with the nourishment we provide our bodies. To honor our textured hair heritage, then, means to look inward, to consider the foods that sustained our forebears, and to seek equilibrium in our daily consumption.
It is a quiet act of defiance against narratives that sought to diminish Black and mixed-race beauty, a reaffirmation of the profound connection between our bodies, our earth, and the generations that came before us. This understanding grants us the wisdom to nourish our strands, allowing them to stand as luminous symbols of resilience, deeply rooted in the enduring heritage we carry.

References
- Almohanna, H. M. Ahmed, A. A. Tsatalis, E. & Tosti, A. (2019). The Role of Vitamins and Minerals in Hair Loss ❉ A Review. Dermatology and Therapy, 9(1), 51-70.
- AYANAE. (2024, August 29). Powerful African and Asian Herbs for Hair Growth ❉ Nature’s Remedies.
- Carney, J. A. & Rosomoff, R. N. (2011). In the Shadow of Slavery ❉ Africa’s Botanical Legacy in the Atlantic World. University of California Press.
- Corporate Knights. (2024, April 19). Africa is already leading the plant-based future.
- Cosmetopoeia of African Plants in Hair Treatment and Care ❉ Topical Nutrition and the Antidiabetic Connection? (2024, February 1). MDPI.
- Creative Support. (2022, November 7). The History of Black Hair.
- Dharwadkar, B. (2024, March 9). Biotin for hair ❉ The role Biotin for hair growth explained. The Times of India.
- Ducray. (2024). Hair loss ❉ the impact of iron, zinc, vitamin D, C and B12 deficiencies.
- Firstpost Africa. (2024, July 10). Chad ❉ Chebe Seeds Transforming Hair Care in Africa. YouTube.
- Frontiers. (2025, May 1). Africa’s contribution to global sustainable and healthy diets ❉ a scoping review.
- Library of Congress. (2021). Heavy is the Head ❉ Evolution of African Hair in America from the 17th c. to the 20th c.
- McCann, J. C. (2009). Stirring the Pot ❉ A History of African Cuisine. Ohio University Press.
- My Hair Doctor. (2022). ZINC & HAIR LOSS GROWTH.
- Plantigo. (2024, December 19). Top Signs of Biotin Deficiency Disease and How to Prevent It.
- The African American Registry. (2023). Black Hair Care and Its Culture, a story.
- TheHub.news. (2023, May 3). Experts Explain Why Iron Deficiency Could Be a Main Cause of Hair Loss in African Americans.
- University of Salford Students’ Union. (2024, October 29). The Remarkable History Behind Black Hairstyles.
- WeSeeColor. (2024). Hair Disorders in Black Women.