Roots
To truly understand the journey of textured hair, we must first allow ourselves to descend into the fertile ground of its origins, a place where strands are not merely biological structures, but living archives of time, tradition, and enduring spirit. For those of us with coils and kinks, waves and curls, the very texture of our hair holds echoes of ancestral practices and societal currents. Texturism, a bias against hair textures closer to the ancestral African hair patterns and favoring those closer to European hair types, casts a long shadow over this heritage.
It is a historical force, often subtle yet always impactful, that has shaped perceptions, practices, and policies surrounding textured hair for centuries. To trace its historical impact is to unravel a complex narrative woven into the very being of Black and mixed-race communities.
Texturism has profoundly influenced perceptions and care practices for textured hair across generations.
Before the harsh hand of colonialism and transatlantic slavery reshaped narratives, hair in diverse African societies was a profound visual language. It communicated lineage, age, marital status, social rank, wealth, and spiritual beliefs. Elaborate styles, sometimes incorporating precious materials, were not just aesthetic choices but statements of identity and community. The intricate patterns woven into hair often held complex symbolism, a testament to the sophistication of ancient African civilizations.
Ancient Practices and Identity Markers
Across various African civilizations, hair was cared for with profound reverence, utilizing natural ingredients and communal rituals. These traditions were deeply intertwined with identity.
- Yoruba People ❉ In Nigeria, the Yoruba people crafted intricate hairstyles that symbolized their community roles and even conveyed messages. Caring for the hair was considered as important as caring for the head itself, believed to bring good fortune.
- Himba Tribe ❉ In Namibia, the Himba tribe wore dreadlocked styles coated with a red ochre paste, symbolizing their connection to the earth and their ancestors.
- Wolof, Mende, Mandingo, and Yoruba ❉ During the 15th century, these groups used hairstyles as a means to carry messages.
The tools used for hair care also held cultural meaning. Combs, for instance, were often carved with symbols and spiritual demarcations, specifically designed with long teeth and rounded tips to untangle African textured hair. These historical practices underscore a time when textured hair was unequivocally celebrated, respected, and understood as a vital aspect of one’s heritage and societal place.
Hair Anatomy and Physiology Specific to Textured Hair
The structural particularities of textured hair contribute to its unique needs and characteristics, a reality often misconstrued by texturist views. While all hair consists of keratin, the protein that forms the hair shaft, the way these keratin bonds are arranged differs significantly in textured hair. The elliptical shape of the hair follicle in individuals with textured hair causes the hair strand to grow in a curvilinear or helical pattern, leading to its characteristic coils, curls, and kinks. This unique structure results in several inherent properties:
- Moisture Retention Challenges ❉ The bends and turns in coiled strands make it harder for natural oils from the scalp to travel down the entire length of the hair shaft. This can lead to increased dryness compared to straight hair.
- Fragility at Curves ❉ Points of curvature along the hair shaft are areas of structural weakness, making textured hair more prone to breakage if not handled with gentleness.
- Volume and Density ❉ Despite individual strands being fine, the helical nature of textured hair creates significant volume and density, often appearing much fuller than its straight counterparts.
This biological understanding, rooted in scientific observation, directly contradicts historical biases that deemed textured hair “unruly” or “bad”. These perceptions were not based on scientific fact but on racialized ideologies that sought to diminish Black identity.
Classification Systems and Their Cultural Origins
The modern hair typing system, which categorizes hair into types 1 (straight) through 4 (tightest coils), with subcategories, has a problematic lineage deeply connected to texturism. While today it assists in product recommendations and styling, its roots trace back to attempts to categorize and rank hair based on “proximity to whiteness”.
| Historical Context Developed in the early 1900s by Eugen Fischer, a Nazi German eugenicist, to determine "Blackness" based on hair texture. Used in genocidal practices in Namibia. |
| Contemporary Use Popularized by hairstylist Andre Walker in the 1990s to help consumers identify products. Categories 1 (straight) to 4 (coily), with sub-types (e.g. 4C). |
| Historical Context Contributed to the "good hair" versus "bad hair" dichotomy, where straighter textures were preferred and linked to social advantage. |
| Contemporary Use Used as a guideline in the natural hair community for care, but often criticized for favoring looser curl patterns and unintentionally reinforcing texturism. |
| Historical Context The evolution of hair classification highlights how systems originally designed for racial subjugation now serve a practical purpose, though their historical implications persist. |
This historical context is vital when considering the implications of texturism on textured hair heritage. The system, despite its current utility, was born from a desire to categorize and control, to impose a hierarchy that elevated European features and denigrated African ones. The “Apartheid Pencil Test,” for example, was a discriminatory practice in South Africa where individuals who could hold a pencil in their hair while shaking it could not be classified as white. Such tests vividly illustrate how hair texture became a tool of racial segregation and oppression, impacting access to opportunities and reinforcing internalized beliefs of inferiority.
Ritual
The rituals surrounding textured hair care are not simply routines; they are acts of remembrance, of connection to a heritage that survived centuries of suppression and redirection. Texturism, through its insidious influence, forced many from ancestral practices, compelling them towards assimilation. Yet, the deep rhythms of traditional care persisted, adapting and re-emerging as powerful statements of identity.
Hair rituals, rooted in ancestral wisdom, defy historical pressures of texturism, becoming profound acts of self-reclamation.
During the transatlantic slave trade, a deliberate and dehumanizing act was the shaving of African captives’ heads upon their arrival in the Americas. This practice served to strip away visible markers of tribal affiliation, social status, and cultural identity. The forced removal of hair communicated a violent erasure of their former selves, undermining their sense of pride and connection to their homeland. Despite this trauma, enslaved Africans, often in secret, found ways to maintain elements of their hair heritage, using what limited resources were available to them.
They utilized household items like kerosene, bacon grease, and butter as makeshift conditioners, demonstrating profound resilience and ingenuity in the face of deprivation. This period saw the emergence of communal hair care practices, often on Sundays, which became a vital space for community bonding and the subtle preservation of tradition.
Protective Styling as Ancestral Ingenuity
Protective styles, such as braids, cornrows, and twists, hold deep ancestral roots, dating back thousands of years in Africa. These styles were never just about aesthetics; they were functional, culturally significant, and often carried coded messages.
For example, during the era of slavery, cornrows were sometimes used to braid rice seeds into the hair, aiding survival and preserving a connection to their culture. Enslaved Africans also reportedly used cornrows to hide maps to freedom. In New Orleans, the Tignon Laws of 1786 mandated that free Black women cover their hair with scarves to signify a subordinate status.
Yet, these women transformed the mandate into an act of defiance, crafting elaborate and ornate headwraps with colorful fabrics and jewels, subverting the law’s intent. This historical example shows how cultural resistance was woven into the very fabric of hair practices, even under oppressive conditions.
The Language of Natural Styling and Definition
The natural hair movement, which saw its first major resurgence in the 1960s during the Civil Rights Movement, marked a powerful rejection of Eurocentric beauty standards that had long dominated perceptions of Black hair. The Afro hairstyle became a potent symbol of Black pride, activism, and a visible connection to African roots. This movement highlighted the beauty of textured hair in its natural state, challenging the narrative that equated straight hair with superiority.
The subsequent waves of the natural hair movement, particularly in the 2000s, were amplified by social media, allowing Black women to share their hair journeys and care techniques. This shift represented a move away from chemical straighteners, also known as relaxers, due to increased awareness of their harmful effects and a desire to embrace indigenous textures.
Ingredients from the Earth ❉ Traditional Formulations
Traditional African hair care relied heavily on locally sourced, natural ingredients, many of which are now recognized for their nourishing properties in modern science. These ingredients were often multi-purpose, used for both hair and skin, reflecting a holistic approach to wellness.
Some examples of ancestral ingredients and their traditional uses:
- Shea Butter ❉ Derived from the Karite tree, shea butter has been used for centuries as a moisturizer for both skin and hair, known for its ability to trap moisture. Queen Cleopatra’s reign saw its early use.
- Chébé Powder ❉ Sourced from Northern Chad, this powder is traditionally used by women of the Bassara/Baggara Arab tribe for long, healthy hair, mixed with water to create a paste applied to strands.
- Marula Oil ❉ A traditional oil from Mozambique and South Africa, valued for its moisturizing properties.
These ingredients, passed down through generations, speak to an intimate knowledge of the earth’s bounty and a deep understanding of textured hair’s needs, predating and persisting beyond the imposition of texturist ideals.
Relay
The historical impact of texturism casts a long shadow, manifesting in policies, social perceptions, and even internalized biases that continue to shape the experiences of individuals with textured hair. While the whispers of ancestral wisdom endure, the pervasive effects of texturism necessitated a relay of resistance, a continuous effort to reclaim and redefine beauty standards.
Texturism’s Deep Historical Roots and Systemic Impact
Texturism, a preference for straighter hair textures and discrimination against kinkier or curlier ones, is intrinsically rooted in racist ideologies that emerged during the era of slavery. A hierarchy developed among enslaved people, where straighter hair translated to economic opportunity and social advantage, creating the harmful concept of “good hair” versus “bad hair”. This pathologized tightly coiled hair, deeming it “ugly” and “inferior,” a belief that unfortunately continues to echo today.
Post-emancipation, the pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards intensified as a means of assimilation and to gain socioeconomic opportunities. This led to the widespread adoption of hot combs, chemical relaxers, and other straightening methods. Madam C.J. Walker, a Black woman, became a millionaire by popularizing the straightening comb and hair care products, offering an avenue for increased societal acceptance, even as some critiqued her for perpetuating the idea that straight hair led to social and economic advancement (Griffin, 2019).
A 2023 study by the CROWN Coalition, an organization working to end hair-based discrimination, found that Black women’s hair is 2.5 times more likely to be deemed unprofessional than other women’s hair, impacting advancement opportunities. This specific data point powerfully illuminates the persistent, measurable impact of texturism in contemporary society, directly linking historical prejudice to present-day career barriers.
Legislative Efforts to Counteract Hair Discrimination
In response to ongoing discrimination, legislation like the CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair) has emerged in various states across the United States. This act aims to ban discrimination based on natural hairstyles in workplaces and schools, marking a significant step in challenging the deeply entrenched biases of texturism. Despite progress, these efforts are a continuous struggle against centuries of normalized prejudice.
| Era Pre-Colonial Africa |
| Dominant Hair Practice/Policy Hair as a profound cultural identifier, social status, and spiritual expression. |
| Era Transatlantic Slave Trade |
| Dominant Hair Practice/Policy Forced hair shaving to strip identity; emergence of rudimentary, communal care methods; subtle resistance through hairstyles. |
| Era Post-Emancipation (19th-early 20th Century) |
| Dominant Hair Practice/Policy Increased pressure to straighten hair for social/economic mobility; rise of hot combs and chemical relaxers. |
| Era Civil Rights Movement (1960s) |
| Dominant Hair Practice/Policy Natural hair (Afro) becomes a symbol of Black pride and political statement. |
| Era Modern Era (2000s-Present) |
| Dominant Hair Practice/Policy Resurgence of natural hair movement; CROWN Act legislation; continued struggle against implicit and explicit hair discrimination. |
| Era The historical trajectory of textured hair in the diaspora is one of both persistent oppression and unwavering resilience. |
Impact on Mental Well-Being and Identity
The consistent demonization and politicization of Black hair has left a deep psychological imprint. Growing up in a society that often deems natural Black hair “unprofessional” or “unattractive” can lead to internalized negative self-perceptions and self-esteem issues. Black women, in particular, face discrimination not only based on skin color but also on hair texture, facial features, and body shape, creating complex layers of marginalization.
The concept of “hair anxiety,” where individuals experience heightened worry about their hair’s appearance, is a lived reality for many with textured hair. This anxiety stems from the societal pressure to conform and the fear of judgment or professional repercussions. The emotional burden of managing a marginalized identity, where hair becomes a source of trauma through microaggressions and biases, is significant.
The enduring struggle against texturism highlights the resilience embedded within textured hair heritage.
Reclaiming natural hair, therefore, becomes a powerful act of agency and self-acceptance, a way for individuals to align their identity with their African roots and ancestral expression. It is a process of unlearning harmful narratives and embracing the inherent beauty and diversity of all hair textures, a vital step in dismantling the pervasive effects of texturism that continue to impact communities globally.
The Role of Ancestral Wisdom in Modern Hair Wellness
As the natural hair movement gains momentum, there is a growing interest in integrating ancestral wisdom with modern scientific understanding for holistic hair care. This involves looking back at the traditional ingredients and practices that sustained healthy hair for millennia in African communities. The deliberate attention to hair health as an aspect of overall wellbeing, often expressed through evocative, nurturing language in ancestral knowledge, is regaining prominence.
For example, the practice of tea rinses using ingredients like Rooibos tea from South Africa, known for its caffeine-free properties, mirrors ancient methods of nourishing the scalp and strands. The production of various natural butters and oils, like Shea, Avocado, and Cocoa butters, has been a long-standing tradition passed down through generations in Africa, recognized for their healing and beautifying properties. This reconnection allows for a deeper appreciation of the ingenuity of historical hair care, recognizing that modern science often validates what ancestral practices have long known.
Reflection
The journey through the historical impact of texturism on textured hair heritage reveals more than just a tale of oppression; it illuminates a profound saga of survival, adaptation, and an unwavering spirit. Each curl, coil, and kink, a testament to enduring lineage, carries not only the weight of historical struggle but also the vibrant echo of ancestral resilience. To gaze upon a head of naturally textured hair today is to witness a living archive, a continuous narrative of ingenuity and beauty that refuses to be silenced.
The inherited wisdom, the deep connection to the earth’s offerings, and the communal traditions of care that define textured hair heritage remind us that true beauty flows from authenticity and a profound appreciation for our inherent design. This understanding is not merely about hair; it is about reclaiming identity, honoring legacy, and stepping into a future where every strand stands as a proud, unbound helix, celebrating the soul of a strand and the richness of its storied past.
References
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- Donaldson, S. (2021). The Controversial History of the Hair Typing System. Byrdie.
- Griffin, C. (2019). How Natural Black Hair at Work Became a Civil Rights Issue. JSTOR Daily.
- Henderson, J. (2015). Kinky Hair ❉ A Hair-story.
- Hunter, A. (1998). Colourism and Texturism ❉ Hierarchies in the Black Community.
- Patton, T. O. (2006). Black Hair ❉ A Cultural History.
- Robinson, C. L. (2011). Hair as race ❉ Why “good hair” may be bad for Black females. Howard Journal of Communications.
- Rosado, S. (2003). Black Hair and the Diaspora.
- Sieber, R. and Herreman, F. (2000). Hair in African Art and Culture. Museum for African Art.
- Shepherd, J. M. (2018). Texturism as an Extension of Colorism in the Natural Hair Community.
- Thomas, A. J. Hacker, J. D. & Hoxha, D. (2011). Gendered racial identity of Black young women. Sex Roles.
- Webb, T. Looby, J. and Fults-McMurtery, R. (2004) African American men’s perceptions of body figure attractiveness ❉ An acculturation study. Journal of Black Studies.
- Walker, A. (1997). Andre Talks Hair. Simon & Schuster.