
Roots
In the vibrant expanse of textured hair, each curl and coil holds stories. These are not merely strands; they stand as living archives, echoing generations of care, wisdom, and profound connection to the earth’s bounty. For those whose hair speaks of African and diasporic ancestry, the journey of hair care is deeply intertwined with a rich heritage , a legacy of ingenious practices and resilient traditions. Among these cherished elements, castor oil emerges as a golden thread, linking past and present, ancestral rites to modern regimens.
Castor oil, extracted from the seeds of the Ricinus communis plant, has traversed continents and centuries, becoming a staple in beauty and wellness rituals. Its origins are ancient, with evidence of its use found in Egyptian tombs dating back to 4000 B.C. (Qhemet Biologics, 2024). This thick, viscous oil, native to the Ethiopian region of tropical East Africa, quickly became prized across ancient and medieval Africa for cosmetics, medicines, and preparations for skin and hair.
In places like Sudan, Tanzania, and Kenya, it held a status even higher than popular sesame oil, surpassing even olive oil in esteem (Qhemet Biologics, 2024). It was not just an ingredient; it was a testament to natural resourcefulness and deep understanding of plant properties for holistic well-being.

How Castor Oil Supports Coiled Strands?
Textured hair, with its unique structure of varying curl patterns—from waves to tight coils—possesses distinct needs. Its helical shape means length can be less noticeable, and the cuticle, or outer layer, naturally lifts more, allowing moisture to escape readily. This inherent characteristic makes textured hair prone to dryness and breakage, conditions that ancestral communities understood intuitively.
For centuries, traditional African hair care prioritized moisture retention and scalp health, often through the use of natural oils and butters (Africa Imports, 2025). Castor oil fits perfectly into this ancestral understanding.
The science validates this ancient wisdom. Castor oil is primarily composed of ricinoleic acid , a monounsaturated fatty acid that constitutes about 90% of its fatty acid content (Rennora Beauty, 2025). This rare compound, combined with other fatty acids, flavonoids, vitamin E, and minerals, gives castor oil its notable properties. Ricinoleic acid, in particular, exhibits anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial qualities (Aventus Clinic, 2025).
This aids in fostering a healthy scalp environment, reducing concerns like dryness and irritation, which can impede growth (Rennora Beauty, 2025). The oil’s thick consistency acts as a sealant, helping to lock in moisture and protect the hair shaft, thereby reducing breakage and enhancing softness (Rennora Beauty, 2025; TheLaurenAshtynCollection, 2025).
Castor oil’s rich historical use in African and diasporic hair care mirrors its unique molecular composition, which offers a deep connection to moisture retention and scalp health for textured hair.

An Ancestral Lexicon of Hair
Beyond scientific classification, ancestral communities possessed their own intricate systems for understanding and describing hair. These classifications were not merely about curl type, but deeply interwoven with social status, age, ethnic identity, marital status, and even spiritual power (University of Michigan, 2023; Bebrų Kosmetika, 2024; Oforiwa, 2023; What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023). Hair was a powerful communicator.
For instance, among the Yoruba, hair was considered the most elevated part of the body, and braided hair was used to send messages to the gods (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023). This reverence meant care rituals were meticulous, often involving extensive washing, combing, oiling, and styling, sometimes taking hours or even days.
The essential lexicon of textured hair care from these traditions included terms for specific styles, tools, and the natural elements used for nourishment. These verbal traditions represent a form of cultural preservation , a passing down of practical wisdom and symbolic meaning. Castor oil, referred to by various names in different regional dialects, was an ever-present element in this lexicon, known for its ability to promote shine, strengthen strands, and maintain scalp well-being (Bebrų Kosmetika, 2024).
The care of textured hair, often perceived as slower growing due to its coiled shape, truly benefits from regular moisture and gentle handling. Traditional methods, deeply rooted in ancestral understanding, emphasized nurturing the hair from root to tip. Ancient hair analysis also offers insight into historical diets and their role in hair health, showcasing how closely connected environmental factors and nutrition were to hair vitality (ScienceDaily, 1998).
- Ricinus Communis ❉ The botanical name for the castor plant, signifying its deep history and widespread cultivation across warm climates.
- Shuku ❉ A traditional Nigerian braided hairstyle, often adorned with intricate patterns, where oils like castor oil would have been used for pliability and sheen.
- Geles ❉ The elaborate headwraps worn by Yoruba women in Nigeria, symbolizing wealth, status, and identity, often covering hair meticulously prepared with traditional oils.
| Aspect of Hair Care Moisture Retention |
| Ancestral Understanding Recognized dry nature of textured hair, used natural oils and butters to seal in hydration. |
| Contemporary Validation Ricinoleic acid in castor oil acts as a humectant, drawing and locking moisture into hair fibers. |
| Aspect of Hair Care Scalp Health |
| Ancestral Understanding Applied botanical extracts and oils for healthy scalp, promoting growth and alleviating irritation. |
| Contemporary Validation Castor oil exhibits anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, beneficial for scalp health and infection prevention. |
| Aspect of Hair Care Hair Strength |
| Ancestral Understanding Practices focused on robust strands through gentle handling and nourishing ingredients. |
| Contemporary Validation Ricinoleic acid in castor oil helps reinforce strands, potentially reducing breakage. |
| Aspect of Hair Care The enduring value of castor oil for textured hair rests on its proven ability to align with both ancestral knowledge and modern scientific insights, ensuring its place in our hair heritage. |

Ritual
The artistry of textured hair styling is a profound expression of identity, community, and aesthetic prowess, deeply steeped in heritage . From the geometric precision of cornrows to the flowing spirals of locs, each style carries a story, a connection to ancestral lands and the generations who perfected these forms. Within this realm of creative expression, castor oil has held a consistent, quiet role, serving not just as a styling aid but as a component of the protective care embedded within these traditions.
Traditional styling was a communal affair, often taking hours, allowing for social bonding and the transmission of cultural knowledge from elder to youth (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023). In pre-colonial Africa, hairstyles communicated age, marital status, and social rank (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023). The intricate braiding processes, for example, involved washing, combing, oiling, and decorating the hair, rituals that were social opportunities to strengthen family and community ties (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023).

What Ancestral Styling Techniques Benefit from Castor Oil?
Protective styling, a cornerstone of textured hair care, finds its roots in these ancient practices. Styles like braids, twists, and cornrows have historical significance, with cornrows dating back to 3000 BC, used to express tribal identity, age, and social class in African peoples (Bebrų Kosmetika, 2024). These styles serve a dual purpose ❉ they are visually striking expressions of identity and protective shields against environmental stressors, minimizing manipulation and breakage. Castor oil, with its thick consistency and lubricating properties, has been used to prepare hair for these styles, helping to section strands, add sheen, and seal in moisture, making hair more pliable and less prone to damage during the styling process (TheLaurenAshtynCollection, 2025).
The application of oils was an integral part of these rituals. Natural oils, including castor oil, shea butter, and coconut oil, were used to moisturize and protect hair from harsh environmental conditions (Bebrų Kosmetika, 2024; Africa Imports, 2025). This deep conditioning aided in maintaining hair health and shine, ensuring the longevity of intricate styles. For instance, in West African traditions, oils and butters kept hair moisturized in hot, dry climates, often paired with protective styles to preserve length and health (Cécred, 2025).
Castor oil’s role in traditional styling speaks to an ancestral understanding of hair health and adornment, weaving protective care into expressions of cultural identity.

Maintaining Natural Styling Heritage
The practice of enhancing natural curl and coil patterns, without heat or harsh chemicals, also draws deeply from ancestral wisdom. Before modern products, communities relied on ingredients from their environment to achieve definition and bounce. Castor oil, perhaps mixed with other plant extracts, provided a natural emollient, adding weight and moisture to coils, allowing them to clump and define beautifully. This approach aligns with a philosophy of working with the hair’s inherent structure, rather than attempting to alter it, honoring its natural form as a part of one’s ancestral lineage .
Even the historical use of hair extensions and wigs finds a subtle connection to this heritage. While often associated with modern fashion, hair adornment, including the addition of extra hair, has a long history in African cultures, used for ceremonial purposes or to signify status (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023). Natural products would have been used to prepare and maintain both the wearer’s hair and the added adornments, ensuring a healthy scalp and a cohesive, respected appearance.
The complete textured hair toolkit of old was a collection of simple yet effective implements ❉ wide-tooth combs carved from wood, bone, or horn; natural bristle brushes; and specialized braiding tools. These tools, coupled with hands well-versed in the language of textured hair, facilitated the application of conditioning agents. Castor oil would have been massaged into the scalp using fingertips or applied to strands with these tools, aiding in detangling and ensuring even distribution, contributing to the hair’s overall resilience and sheen. This attention to detail reflects a profound respect for hair as a sacred part of the self (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023).
- Braiding Combs ❉ Traditional combs, often made of wood or bone, used to part and section hair with precision for intricate styles.
- Oiling Bowls ❉ Small, often clay or wooden vessels, used to hold and warm natural oils for application to the hair and scalp.
- Decorative Adornments ❉ Shells, beads, and precious metals incorporated into styled hair, signifying status or cultural identity, often applied after oiling for added luster.

Relay
The daily regimen for textured hair is more than a sequence of steps; it embodies a living tradition, a relay of ancestral wisdom passed through generations, informed by both deep cultural understanding and an intuitive grasp of botanical properties. Castor oil stands as a quiet elder in this continuum, its efficacy for nourishment and protection recognized since antiquity, now often validated by scientific inquiry. The shift from communal village rituals to individual self-care routines has preserved the spirit of these practices, adapting them to modern life while retaining their intrinsic connection to heritage .
Historically, care for textured hair was intertwined with broader wellness philosophies. Hair health was not isolated from overall bodily health, diet, or even spiritual practices (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023; Bebrų Kosmetika, 2024). The use of specific herbs, plant-based oils, and mindful applications were holistic, aimed at well-being that extended beyond mere aesthetics. This foundational approach continues to influence contemporary textured hair care, with many seeking natural ingredients and mindful routines.

How Does Traditional Wisdom Guide Hair Care?
Building personalized textured hair regimens today often draws directly from these ancestral blueprints. The knowledge that textured hair tends towards dryness, for instance, leads to a consistent emphasis on moisture retention, a practice seen in African traditions where oils and butters were staples for hydration (Rennora Beauty, 2025; Cécred, 2025). Castor oil’s unique ability to act as both a non-drying oil and a humectant positions it as an invaluable component in these regimens, helping to attract and seal moisture into the hair shaft, reducing dryness and breakage (Qhemet Biologics, 2024).
The nighttime sanctuary, specifically the use of bonnets and headwraps, represents a compelling example of ancestral wisdom adapting across time and geography. While modern bonnets protect styles and reduce friction from pillowcases, their historical roots extend deep into African and diasporic cultures (The Zoe Report, 2024; Byrdie, 2022). In pre-colonial Africa, headwraps indicated social status and tribal identity (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023; JD Institute of Fashion Technology, 2021). During enslavement, they were often enforced as symbols of subservience, yet enslaved Black women transformed them into symbols of resistance, using folds to communicate coded messages (Byrdie, 2022; sonson, 2021; The Zoe Report, 2024).
Post-slavery, these coverings became crucial for preserving pressed hairstyles and later, during the Civil Rights Movement, re-emerged as symbols of Black pride and a celebration of natural hair (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023; sonson, 2021). The bonnet’s journey underscores a powerful legacy of resilience in hair care, a practice where castor oil would have been applied before covering, ensuring hair remained conditioned and protected through the night. Castor oil is used to hydrate hair and scalp, reduce hair breakage, promote hair growth, and improve scalp health.
The journey of castor oil in textured hair care illustrates a continuous conversation between ancient wisdom and modern understanding, a testament to enduring ancestral practices.

Healing Scalp Concerns with Ancestral Insights
Addressing common textured hair concerns, such as dryness, breakage, or scalp irritation, finds echoes in traditional remedies. The ancestral understanding of plant properties provided solutions long before modern dermatology. For instance, the anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties of ricinoleic acid in castor oil, now understood through scientific analysis, align with its traditional use for scalp health and issues like dandruff (Dr. Axe, 2024; TheLaurenAshtynCollection, 2025).
This synergy between observed traditional benefits and modern scientific explanation reinforces castor oil’s enduring value. Its thick nature helps it to seal moisture, thereby reducing protein loss in damaged hair (TheLaurenAshtynCollection, 2025).
A deeper exploration of holistic influences reveals that hair health was, and often still is, connected to broader wellness concepts. Traditional African belief systems often viewed the hair as a conduit to spiritual power and connection with ancestors (What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair, 2023; Oforiwa, 2023). Therefore, caring for hair was not just a physical act but a spiritual one, influencing self-perception and community belonging (TRIYBE, 2025). This holistic perspective means that external applications, like castor oil, were part of a larger wellness ecosystem that included diet, lifestyle, and spiritual grounding, all contributing to the vitality of the individual and their hair.
| Traditional Use Moisturizing and lubricating dry hair (Africa, Caribbean) |
| Related Hair/Scalp Benefit Adds softness and pliability to dry, coarse, or damaged hair. |
| Traditional Use Treating various skin, scalp, and hair conditions (Africa) |
| Related Hair/Scalp Benefit Anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties support a healthy scalp. |
| Traditional Use Promoting hair growth (Ancient Egypt, Japan) |
| Related Hair/Scalp Benefit Ricinoleic acid may improve blood circulation to hair follicles. |
| Traditional Use Sealing in moisture for protective styles (West Africa) |
| Related Hair/Scalp Benefit Acts as a protective sealant, reducing breakage and dryness. |
| Traditional Use The persistent use of castor oil for textured hair reflects an enduring trust in its capacity to nourish and shield, spanning continents and centuries. |

Reflection
The journey through castor oil’s cultural background for textured hair reveals more than a simple history of an ingredient. It uncovers a profound saga of heritage , resilience, and the enduring power of ancestral wisdom. Every application, every massage, every protective style steeped in this golden elixir whispers tales of adaptability, community, and the persistent celebration of identity in the face of adversity.
Textured hair, a crown in its truest sense, has always been a marker of lineage and a canvas for cultural expression. The practices surrounding its care, particularly the use of time-honored elements such as castor oil, serve as living connections to the past. They are not static relics but dynamic traditions, evolving while retaining their core meaning. They remind us that the journey of hair care is deeply personal and communal, a continuous dialogue between inherited practices and contemporary understanding.
In understanding the path of castor oil from ancient African lands to its place in diasporic homes today, we witness how knowledge, passed down through generations, finds validation in both lived experience and modern scientific inquiry. It is a testament to the ingenuity of our forebears, who, with what was available, perfected regimens that continue to benefit us. The Soul of a Strand, indeed, carries the weight and beauty of this enduring heritage , a timeless resource for health, confidence, and connection.

References
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- Qhemet Biologics. (2024, September 28). THE HISTORY & BENEFITS OF CASTOR OIL. Retrieved from https://www.qhemetbiologics.com/blogs/the-natural-standard/the-history-benefits-of-castor-oil
- What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair. (2023, November 30). Clinics in Dermatology, 41(6), 920-928.
- Peacock, T. N. (2019). African American Hair and Beauty ❉ Examining Afrocentricity and Identity Through the Reemergence and Expression of Natural Hair in the 21st Century. (Master’s thesis, University of South Carolina).
- TheLaurenAshtynCollection. (2025, February 17). Black castor oil benefits for hair you NEED to know. Retrieved from https://thelaurenashtyncollection.com/blogs/news/black-castor-oil-benefits-for-hair
- Dr. Axe. (2024, November 1). Castor Oil for Hair Growth ❉ Benefits and How to Use. Retrieved from https://draxe.com/beauty/castor-oil-for-hair-growth/
- Aventus Clinic. (2025, January 20). Castor Oil for Hair Growth ❉ Expert Guide & Scientific Evidence. Retrieved from https://aventusclinic.com/castor-oil-for-hair-growth/
- Rennora Beauty. (2025, January 15). How to Use Castor Oil for African American Hair Growth. Retrieved from https://rennora.com/blogs/news/how-to-use-castor-oil-for-african-american-hair-growth
- Cécred. (2025, April 15). Understanding Hair Oiling ❉ History, Benefits & More. Retrieved from https://cecred.com/blogs/cecred-space/history-of-hair-oiling
- Byrdie. (2022, September 27). The Significance and History of Bonnets. Retrieved from https://www.byrdie.com/bonnet-history-black-hair-6745133
- The Zoe Report. (2024, February 26). How Bonnets Went From Niche Black Beauty Ritual To Mainstream Accessory. Retrieved from https://www.thezoereport.com/beauty/hair/bonnet-history-black-hair-care
- Oforiwa, A. (2023, December 7). The History and Culture of African Natural Hair ❉ From Ancient Times to Modern Trends. AMAKA Studio. Retrieved from https://amakastudio.com/culture/the-history-and-culture-of-african-natural-hair-from-ancient-times-to-modern-trends/
- sonson. (2021, April 24). The History of Headwraps and Black Culture. Retrieved from https://sonson.com/blogs/sonson-reads/the-history-of-headwraps-and-black-culture
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- TRIYBE. (2025, May 15). Beyond the roots ❉ exploring the link between black hair and mental health. Retrieved from https://www.triybe.com/blog/beyond-the-roots-exploring-the-link-between-black-hair-and-mental-health/