
Roots
Consider for a moment the profound silent stories woven into each strand, a living archive tracing paths through time, across continents, and into the very core of identity. This intimate connection, often overlooked in the rush of daily life, holds echoes of ancient rites, communal solidarity, and individual spirit. Our exploration of the CROWN Act, a modern legislative endeavor, begins not in legal texts, but in the deep well of human ancestry and the profound significance of hair, particularly textured hair, within this rich lineage. The CROWN Act’s true purpose, when viewed through the lens of heritage, reveals itself as a pivotal assertion of the right to express one’s ancestral self, free from the constraints of discriminatory societal norms.
Across generations, hair has served as more than mere adornment. It functioned as a canvas for communication, a marker of tribal belonging, social standing, and spiritual connection. For communities of African descent, intricate styling traditions, from tightly coiled braids to sculpted locs, conveyed complex narratives. These styles, developed over millennia, were often practical responses to climate and lifestyle, yet they simultaneously became profound cultural expressions.
The very biology of textured hair, with its unique helical structure and diverse curl patterns, carries the blueprint of these ancestral adaptations. It is a testament to resilience and ingenuity, a living legacy passed down through bloodlines.
The journey of textured hair through history, however, has not been without its trials. With the advent of the transatlantic slave trade and subsequent colonial impositions, a deliberate cultural erasure began, systematically devaluing Black forms of beauty and self-expression. Hair, once a source of pride and communal connection, became a site of subjugation. The infamous Tignon Laws of 18th-century Louisiana stand as a stark historical marker of this oppressive shift.
In 1786, the Spanish colonial governor, Esteban Rodríguez Miró, mandated that free women of color in New Orleans, who often wore elaborate hairstyles adorned with jewels and feathers, cover their hair with a scarf, known as a tignon. This act, ostensibly to regulate public order, directly aimed to strip these women of their visual autonomy and signify their supposed lower social standing, regardless of their free status. It was a clear attempt to enforce Eurocentric beauty standards and control Black women’s public presentation. This historical directive resonates through the centuries, underscoring the enduring pattern of policing Black hair.
The CROWN Act stands as a legislative testament to the profound, enduring connection between textured hair and ancestral identity.
This historical context is indispensable to understanding the CROWN Act. Its genesis arises from a long lineage of systemic bias, where the natural presentation of Black hair has been deemed “unprofessional,” “unruly,” or “distracting” in educational and professional environments. Such perceptions are not arbitrary; they are deeply rooted in historical prejudices that sought to dismantle the cultural integrity of Black communities. The Act seeks to rectify these historical wrongs by extending legal protection to hairstyles and hair textures historically associated with race.
It acknowledges that discrimination based on hair is, at its core, a form of racial discrimination. This is not merely about aesthetic preference; it addresses a long-standing tool of oppression.

What are the Ancestral Ways of Understanding Hair?
Ancestral knowledge systems regarded hair as a sacred extension of the self, a conduit for spiritual energy, and a symbolic link to lineage and the cosmos. In many African societies, the meticulous art of hair braiding, twisting, and coiling was more than a styling practice; it was a ritual. These practices often involved community members, particularly elder women, who would spend hours tending to hair, exchanging stories, imparting wisdom, and strengthening communal bonds. The act of cleansing, oiling, and adorning hair was imbued with intentionality, drawing upon local botanicals and natural elements that nurtured both the physical strand and the spirit.
Each coil and braid could represent an individual’s journey, their family history, or their aspirations. The understanding of hair was holistic, encompassing its physical needs alongside its spiritual and communal significance. This deep-rooted understanding shapes our perception of what it means to care for textured hair in a truly respectful and affirming manner, connecting us to those who came before.
The very language we use to speak of textured hair, whether it be Coils, Kinks, Locs, or Braids, carries a weight of history and cultural meaning. These terms describe the intricate patterns of hair growth that defy the Eurocentric straight-hair standard, a standard that has historically been imposed as the sole measure of acceptability. The CROWN Act’s purpose is to dismantle this imposed standard, creating a legal framework that recognizes and protects the inherent beauty and cultural significance of these varied expressions. It validates the diverse expressions that have been nurtured and maintained through generations, often in the face of overt societal disapproval.

Ritual
The journey of textured hair care has always been a ritual, a delicate dance between inherited wisdom and the demands of an evolving world. For generations, the care of textured hair has been an intimate practice, often performed within the sanctity of familial spaces, far from the gaze of a society that frequently deemed it undesirable. The products, the tools, the techniques employed were not just about aesthetics; they represented a commitment to self-preservation, a quiet act of defiance against a world that sought to diminish Black existence. The CROWN Act steps into this space, acknowledging these deeply personal and cultural rituals as integral to one’s identity, demanding their protection in public spheres.
Styling textured hair has historically been a complex interplay of practicality, creativity, and cultural expression. Protective Styles such as braids, cornrows, and locs, deeply rooted in African ancestral practices, served functional purposes like managing hair growth, protecting delicate strands, and signifying social status. These styles allowed communities to thrive in diverse environments, minimizing tangling and breakage while maintaining the hair’s integrity.
Yet, these very styles became targets of discrimination. The perception of these styles as “unprofessional” in modern workplaces and schools forced many individuals to choose between their cultural authenticity and their livelihoods or educational opportunities.
Societal perceptions of textured hair have often compelled individuals to compromise their ancestral expression for acceptance.
A 2019 study by Dove highlighted a stark reality ❉ 80% of Black women reported feeling they needed to switch their hairstyle to align with more conservative standards in order to fit in at work. This figure speaks volumes about the pervasive pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty ideals, often at the expense of one’s natural hair. This pressure extends beyond superficial aesthetics; it translates into tangible barriers to employment and educational advancement.
The case of Chasity Jones, a Black woman who had a job offer rescinded because she refused to cut her locs, serves as a poignant illustration of this systemic issue. These instances underscore a deep societal bias, equating certain hairstyles with professionalism, a bias rooted in racial prejudice rather than genuine merit or capability.

How do Modern Perceptions of Hair Disregard Historical Significance?
Modern perceptions often disconnect hair from its historical and cultural moorings, viewing it solely as a cosmetic choice rather than an aspect of racial identity and heritage. This decontextualization allows discriminatory policies to persist under the guise of “grooming standards” or “professionalism,” effectively penalizing phenotypes associated with Black identity. For instance, the very definition of “neatness” or “order” becomes a culturally loaded term, often unconsciously defaulting to characteristics of straight hair.
This Eurocentric lens fails to recognize the inherent neatness and structural integrity of well-maintained textured styles. When institutions demand that hair be “straightened” or “tamed,” they are, in effect, demanding an alteration of a natural racial trait, a practice that historically has caused physical damage through harsh chemicals and heat, and psychological harm by enforcing a sense of inadequacy in one’s natural state.
The journey of adopting Eurocentric hair standards has had significant implications for the wellness of textured hair. Practices like chemical relaxing, while offering a temporary conformity, have often come at a considerable cost to hair health, leading to breakage, thinning, and scalp irritation. A 2020 Harvard University study mentioned in search results concluded that some hair products, including relaxers, contain endocrine disruptors and other chemicals linked to serious health issues like diabetes, metabolic syndrome, cardiovascular disease, and even uterine cancer.
This highlights a direct correlation between societal pressure to alter natural hair and potential health risks. The CROWN Act, by safeguarding natural styles, indirectly promotes healthier hair practices, allowing individuals to avoid chemical treatments that can compromise their physical well-being.
| Era and Context 18th Century Louisiana |
| Hair Practice/Perception Tignon Laws enforced head coverings on free Black women, aiming to diminish their social status and visual identity. |
| Impact on Heritage and Identity Suppression of self-expression; forced conformity to a discriminatory social hierarchy. |
| Era and Context Early 20th Century America |
| Hair Practice/Perception Rise of chemical relaxers and hot combs for hair straightening, influenced by prevailing Eurocentric beauty ideals. |
| Impact on Heritage and Identity Physical harm to hair, psychological pressure to assimilate, distancing from natural textures. |
| Era and Context Mid-20th Century Black Power Movement |
| Hair Practice/Perception The Afro became a symbol of racial pride, resistance, and reclamation of African identity. |
| Impact on Heritage and Identity Cultural affirmation, challenge to dominant beauty standards, but also led to increased scrutiny in mainstream spaces. |
| Era and Context Contemporary Workplace/School |
| Hair Practice/Perception Natural styles like locs, braids, and twists deemed "unprofessional" in corporate or academic settings. |
| Impact on Heritage and Identity Discrimination in hiring/education, psychological burden of conforming, loss of authentic self-presentation. |
| Era and Context The enduring journey of textured hair reflects continuous efforts to maintain cultural heritage in the face of persistent societal pressures. |

Relay
The relay of cultural understanding, from ancestral practice to modern legal safeguard, finds a compelling stride in the CROWN Act. This legislative effort represents a crucial baton passed in the ongoing race for equity and cultural recognition, particularly for those whose heritage is etched in the very fabric of their hair. The Act’s core purpose is to protect individuals from discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles, acknowledging that such discrimination is a manifestation of systemic racism. It is a direct response to a pervasive problem where deeply ingrained biases impede access to education and employment for Black individuals.
Statistical evidence paints a clear picture of this ongoing struggle. A 2020 study by Michigan State University and Duke University, titled “The Natural Hair Bias in Job Recruitment,” offers compelling data. It determined that Black women with natural hairstyles are less likely to land job interviews than white women or Black women with straightened hair.
Furthermore, the researchers observed that participants viewed Black hairstyles such as afros, twists, or braids as less professional. This academic finding provides tangible proof of the implicit biases that operate within hiring processes, biases that penalize natural hair, thus restricting economic opportunity and social mobility.
The CROWN Act addresses a historical inequity that has long impacted professional and academic advancement.

How does the CROWN Act Challenge Ingrained Biases?
The CROWN Act challenges these ingrained biases by explicitly expanding the definition of racial discrimination to include hair texture and protective hairstyles. Historically, general anti-discrimination laws, such as the Civil Rights Act of 1964, did not always explicitly cover hair, creating loopholes that allowed discriminatory grooming policies to persist. Courts had varied interpretations; for example, the 1976 case of Jenkins V. Blue Cross Mutual Hospital Insurance upheld a race discrimination lawsuit against an employer for bias against afros, affirming that afros were protected under Title VII.
However, subsequent cases, such as the 1981 ruling against a Black woman for wearing braids by American Airlines, demonstrated continued legal uncertainty by arguing braids were not an immutable racial characteristic. The CROWN Act steps in to clarify this ambiguity, leaving no room for subjective interpretations of professionalism that disproportionately affect Black individuals. By codifying protection, it directly confronts the notion that Eurocentric hair standards are the default or superior norm, thereby fostering a more truly equitable environment.
The ripple effect of hair discrimination extends far beyond individual instances of job loss or missed opportunities. It has a profound impact on well-being and sense of self. The continuous pressure to conform, to alter one’s hair to fit a prescribed standard, can lead to psychological distress, diminished self-esteem, and a disconnect from one’s cultural heritage. Children, particularly Black girls, also bear the brunt of these discriminatory policies in schools.
A significant 66% of Black girls in majority-white schools report experiencing hair discrimination. Such school grooming policies, which sometimes ban culturally significant hairstyles, often result in students being disciplined or even removed from the classroom, causing them to miss valuable instructional time. This undermines their educational journey and sends a clear message that their natural appearance is unacceptable, thereby hindering their development and sense of belonging. The CROWN Act aims to dismantle these barriers, allowing young people to pursue their education with dignity and without fear of punishment for their natural hair.
- Legislative Evolution ❉ The CROWN Act builds upon existing civil rights legislation, specifically addressing a gap in protections against race-based hair discrimination that was often overlooked or misinterpreted under broader anti-discrimination laws.
- Cultural Affirmation ❉ It validates natural hair textures and protective styles as integral to Black identity and heritage, moving beyond mere tolerance to legal protection.
- Societal Shift ❉ The Act’s passage in various states signifies a growing recognition of systemic biases and a collective will to challenge long-standing, racially motivated beauty and professionalism standards.

Why is the CROWN Act a Vital Step in Cultural Preservation?
The CROWN Act serves as a vital step in cultural preservation because it safeguards a visible, living aspect of Black and mixed-race heritage. Hair, in its natural state and traditional styles, is a direct link to African ancestral practices and cultural continuity. For centuries, these styles conveyed complex meanings, signified status, communicated tribal identity, and even served as maps for escape during enslavement. The criminalization or devaluation of these styles in modern society represents a continuation of efforts to erase or diminish Black cultural expression.
By legally protecting the right to wear natural hair, the CROWN Act helps to ensure that individuals do not have to choose between their cultural authenticity and their participation in public life. It allows for the free expression of a fundamental aspect of identity, thereby strengthening cultural pride and enabling the transmission of these traditions across generations. This legislative action acknowledges that the beauty and value of textured hair are inherent, not contingent upon conformity to a narrow, Eurocentric aesthetic.

Reflection
As we stand at this juncture, witnessing the steady progress of the CROWN Act across various states and at the federal level, a deeper truth unfurls. This legislation is more than a legal statute; it represents a societal acknowledgment of the profound cultural significance held within each strand of textured hair. It is a quiet revolution, a reclamation of ancestral wisdom that has persevered through centuries of challenge and adaptation. The essence of the CROWN Act speaks to the fundamental right of every individual to exist authentically, to carry their heritage visibly, and to move through the world without fear of reprisal for the innate beauty of their natural form.
Roothea’s ‘Soul of a Strand’ ethos finds its profound resonance here, in the understanding that our hair is a living archive, each coil and curve holding stories of resilience, ingenuity, and spirit. The CROWN Act serves as a guardian of this archive, ensuring that the legacy of textured hair, with its rich history of cultural practices and expressions, can continue to be celebrated and transmitted. It is a recognition that the true measure of professionalism or academic capability lies not in the adherence to an antiquated, homogenous aesthetic, but in the unique contributions each individual brings, including the vibrant narratives etched in their appearance. This act, therefore, is a beacon, illuminating a path towards a world where respect for one’s authentic, heritage-bound self is not merely tolerated, but deeply honored.

References
- Legal Defense Fund. Hair Discrimination FAQ.
- Rosette, Ashleigh Shelby. “Research Suggests Bias Against Natural Hair Limits Job Opportunities for Black Women.” Duke University, 2020.
- Economic Policy Institute. “The CROWN Act ❉ A jewel for combating racial discrimination in the workplace and classroom.” 2023.
- Griffin, Chanté. “How Natural Black Hair at Work Became a Civil Rights Issue.” JSTOR Daily, 2019.
- Frost, Christa. “The Crown Act ❉ The history of hair.” Ohio State University, 2021.
- Wikipedia. “Discrimination based on hair texture in the United States.”
- Fisher Phillips. “The Roots Of The CROWN Act ❉ What Employers Need To Know About Hairstyle Discrimination Laws.” 2020.
- Labour Research Department. “Untangling the problem of hair discrimination at work.” 2023.
- Stewart, Jacqueline. “The Person Beneath the Hair ❉ Hair Discrimination, Health, and Well-Being.” Public Library of Science, 2023.
- McLane Middleton. “Understanding Hair Discrimination and the CROWN Act.” 2023.
- Dove and LinkedIn. “2023 CROWN Research Study ❉ Hair Bias in the Workplace.” 2023.
- Perception Institute. “Good Hair” study. 2016.