
Roots
There exists a profound connection between the strands that crown a head and the stories held within a people. For those who trace their lineage through the vast, shimmering currents of the African diaspora, hair is never simply a biological outgrowth. It is a living archive, a scroll of ancestral wisdom, and a testament to resilience. When we consider the purpose of the CROWN Act, we are not merely discussing a piece of legislation; we are speaking to the very right to wear one’s heritage without fear of scorn or dismissal.
The CROWN Act, an acronym for “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” stands as a legal bulwark against the persistent, often insidious, forms of discrimination that target individuals based on their hair texture and traditional styles. It aims to clarify that denying opportunities in employment, education, or other public spaces because of one’s natural hair — be it locs, braids, twists, or Afros — contravenes the spirit of equality. These protections seek to dismantle biases deeply rooted in a history that has long devalued Black and mixed-race aesthetic expressions.

How Is Textured Hair Anatomically Distinct?
To truly grasp the significance of the CROWN Act, one must first recognize the unique biological architecture of textured hair. Unlike straight or wavy hair, strands with tighter coils possess a distinct elliptical cross-section, rather than a round one. This shape causes the hair shaft to bend and curve as it grows, creating the characteristic curls, kinks, and coils.
The points where the hair bends are also points of structural weakness, making textured hair inherently more prone to dryness and breakage without proper care. This biological reality, often misunderstood or maligned, has been historically used as a basis for judging Black and mixed-race hair as “unruly” or “unprofessional.”
Ancestral wisdom, passed through generations, long understood these nuances of textured hair. Traditional practices often focused on moisture retention, gentle manipulation, and protective styling — methods that honored the hair’s inherent nature. Modern trichology now affirms much of this inherited knowledge, offering scientific explanations for practices honed over centuries. The CROWN Act acknowledges this foundational truth ❉ that hair, in its natural state, is a part of one’s inherent being and should not be subject to external, racially biased definitions of acceptability.
The CROWN Act stands as a legal bulwark against persistent discrimination targeting natural hair textures and traditional styles.

What Terms Describe Textured Hair Heritage?
The vocabulary surrounding textured hair has its own rich lineage, reflecting centuries of cultural exchange, invention, and reclamation. Certain terms hold particular weight, carrying within them stories of resistance and pride. Understanding this lexicon helps to contextualize the very styles the CROWN Act seeks to protect.
- Afro ❉ A naturally grown, rounded hair style that stands out from the head, symbolizing Black pride and a rejection of Eurocentric beauty standards during the Civil Rights and Black Power movements.
- Locs ❉ Often called dreadlocks, these are sections of hair that have been intentionally matted and coiled, a practice with ancient roots across various cultures, including African spiritual traditions.
- Braids ❉ Formed by interweaving three or more strands of hair, braids are among the oldest hairstyles, with historical records dating back to 3500 BC in African cultures, used to signify social status, age, wealth, and tribal affiliation.
- Twists ❉ A protective style created by winding two sections of hair around each other, often used to define curl patterns or prepare hair for other styles.
- Bantu Knots ❉ A style where sections of hair are twisted and coiled tightly against the scalp, forming small, coiled buns. This practice has roots in Southern Africa, with “Bantu” broadly referring to various ethnic groups.
These terms are not merely descriptors; they are echoes of history, each style carrying a narrative of adaptation, survival, and celebration. The discrimination against these very styles is a direct affront to this living heritage.
| Traditional Understanding Textured hair requires gentle handling and specific moisture. |
| Contemporary Scientific Insight The elliptical cross-section of textured hair creates curl patterns, also making it more prone to breakage at its bending points. |
| Traditional Understanding Oiling the scalp and hair supports growth and health. |
| Contemporary Scientific Insight Scalp massage promotes blood circulation, and certain natural oils possess properties that can seal cuticles and provide lipid barriers. |
| Traditional Understanding Protective styles preserve hair from the elements. |
| Contemporary Scientific Insight Braids, twists, and locs reduce manipulation, minimize friction, and shield fragile ends, contributing to length retention. |
| Traditional Understanding The CROWN Act protects the freedom to practice care traditions that align with the inherent qualities of textured hair. |

Ritual
Hair styling, for many of Black and mixed-race descent, extends beyond mere aesthetics. It is a ritual, a communal gathering, a practice steeped in ancestral wisdom and familial bonds. The time spent braiding, oiling, and adorning hair has historically been a conduit for storytelling, for passing down knowledge, and for reaffirming identity within communities. The CROWN Act enters this sacred space, seeking to protect the right to engage in these living traditions without external judgment or penalty.

What Historical Styles Are Protected by the CROWN Act?
Throughout history, Black hair styles have conveyed messages of social status, marital availability, age, religion, and even tribal affiliation. These traditions traveled across oceans, adapting and persisting even through the brutal dehumanization of slavery, where hair was often forcibly shaved to erase cultural identity (Byrd and Tharps). Yet, resilience held sway, and ancestral practices continued, sometimes in secret, sometimes becoming acts of silent defiance.
Consider the story of cornrows. Dating back to 3500 BCE in Africa, these intricate patterns were not simply decorative. Enslaved people in the Americas utilized cornrows to create secret maps, guiding escape routes, or to conceal seeds and rice for survival during flight (Royaltee Magazine, 2021).
This act transformed hair into a tool of liberation, a testament to the ingenuity and fortitude of those who resisted oppression. The CROWN Act, in its modern iteration, protects these very styles—cornrows, locs, braids, Afros—that carry such profound historical and cultural weight.
The CROWN Act safeguards the freedom to wear heritage styles that have historically conveyed identity and resistance.

How Does the CROWN Act Address Discriminatory Styling Norms?
For centuries, Eurocentric beauty standards have imposed a narrow vision of “professionalism” upon textured hair. This often meant coercing individuals, particularly Black women, to chemically straighten their hair or adopt styles that mimicked straighter textures. This pressure was not benign; it carried real consequences, impacting educational pursuits, employment opportunities, and even one’s sense of self-worth. The CROWN Act directly challenges these outdated and racially biased norms.
A significant body of research points to the systemic nature of this discrimination. A 2023 research study by Dove and LinkedIn revealed that Black Women’s Hair is 2.5 Times as Likely as White Women’s Hair to Be Perceived as “unprofessional” (Dove and LinkedIn, 2023). This stark statistic illuminates the very real, often invisible, barriers faced by individuals seeking fair treatment in workplaces and schools. The CROWN Act addresses this by explicitly defining race to include hair texture and protective hairstyles, thereby extending statutory protection where previous anti-discrimination laws might have been narrowly interpreted.
Protective styles, which traditionally kept textured hair safe and moisturized, became targets of grooming policies. Locs, for instance, were often deemed “unclean” or “unprofessional,” despite their rich spiritual and cultural ties in many African traditions (Royaltee Magazine, 2021). The Act’s language is precise, specifically naming these styles to leave no room for ambiguity. This legislative clarity is a direct response to a long history of policing Black bodies and cultural expressions, demanding that professional spaces adapt to the diversity of human heritage rather than demanding conformity to a single, exclusionary standard.

Relay
The dialogue surrounding hair, identity, and societal acceptance has been a long one, a relay race where the baton of progress is passed from generation to generation. The CROWN Act represents a significant moment in this ongoing journey, a codification of principles that have been fought for by Black communities for centuries. It does not simply appear from thin air; it is a legislative response to deeply ingrained systemic issues, drawing its urgency from lived experiences and historical injustices.

Why Is the CROWN Act Needed in Contemporary Society?
Despite civil rights advancements, the subtle and overt forms of hair discrimination persisted, creating a loophole where racial bias could masquerade as “professionalism” or “grooming standards.” Studies have consistently demonstrated the tangible harm caused by such policies. For example, a 2019 study indicated that Black Women Were 1.5 Times More Likely to Be Sent Home from Work Because of Their Hair. This points to an alarming reality ❉ individuals are penalized for simply existing in their authentic physical form, carrying their heritage in their very appearance.
The need for the CROWN Act stems from this pervasive and documented reality. It strengthens existing anti-discrimination laws, such as Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, by explicitly including protections for hair texture and protective styles associated with race. This specificity is crucial.
Without it, interpretations of what constitutes “race discrimination” could continue to exclude hair-based bias, leaving Black and mixed-race individuals vulnerable. The Act serves to close these gaps, ensuring that schools and workplaces become spaces where cultural expression is welcomed, not suppressed.
The CROWN Act does not merely legislate appearance; it protects identity and cultural expression.

What is the Act’s Broader Societal Contribution?
The purpose of the CROWN Act extends beyond legal protection; it contributes to a broader societal shift towards equity and cultural affirmation. By recognizing discrimination against natural hair as a form of racial bias, the Act validates the experiences of countless individuals who have faced microaggressions, ridicule, or outright denial of opportunities due to their hair. This validation is a powerful affirmation of self-worth and belonging. It encourages a societal embrace of diversity, moving away from monolithic beauty standards towards a richer, more inclusive understanding of human appearance.
The legislation’s journey from a grassroots movement, co-founded by the CROWN Coalition and Dove in 2019, to law in numerous states (California leading in 2019) reflects a growing awareness and demand for justice. Cases like that of Andrew Johnson, a high school wrestler forced to cut his locs to compete, brought national attention to the issue, underscoring the deep personal impact of hair discrimination on young lives. The CROWN Act aims to prevent such incidents, protecting the right of every individual to express their cultural identity without fear of academic or professional repercussions. It is a legal instrument that supports the continuous celebration of ancestral practices and individual authenticity in public life.
The impact of the CROWN Act is not just theoretical; it translates into tangible differences in daily experiences. For instance, in workplaces, it means companies must revisit and update their appearance policies to align with its principles.
- Policy Review ❉ Organizations must scrutinize dress codes for language that could be interpreted as discriminatory against textured hair, removing vague terms like “neat” or “professional” that disproportionately target specific hair types.
- Education ❉ Employee training on diversity and inclusion now often includes modules on hair discrimination, raising awareness and fostering understanding of Black hair heritage.
- Recruitment Equity ❉ It aims to prevent scenarios where qualified candidates are passed over due to their hairstyles, thereby broadening the talent pool and promoting equitable hiring practices.
The Act serves as a catalyst for conversations about appearance bias, prompting organizations to create environments where all forms of natural hair are deemed acceptable and celebrated. This contributes to a deeper understanding of professionalism, shifting it from a narrow, Eurocentric construct to one that is truly inclusive and respectful of diverse cultural expressions.
| Setting Workplace |
| Pre-CROWN Act Realities Black women 1.5 times more likely to be sent home from work due to hair (LDF, n.d.). Black women's hair 2.5 times more likely to be perceived as unprofessional (Dove and LinkedIn, 2023). |
| Setting Schools |
| Pre-CROWN Act Realities 66% of Black girls in majority-white schools report experiencing hair discrimination (LDF, n.d.). Students disciplined or removed from classrooms for culturally significant hairstyles (LDF, n.d.). |
| Setting The CROWN Act addresses these pervasive issues by explicitly prohibiting race-based hair discrimination. |

Reflection
The journey of textured hair, from its ancient, celebrated roots to its contemporary expressions, has been a testament to human spirit and cultural continuity. The CROWN Act, in its core purpose, serves as a legislative echo of this enduring heritage, a legal recognition of the right to exist authentically, crown and all. It speaks to something deeper than just hair on one’s head; it speaks to identity, to ancestral memory, and to the living legacy carried within each strand.
Roothea’s ethos, “Soul of a Strand,” captures this profound connection. It reminds us that hair is a vital part of holistic wellbeing, not merely a superficial adornment. When society imposes standards that compel individuals to alter their hair, it is not just a styling preference being challenged; it is a connection to ancestral wisdom, a personal narrative, and a collective heritage. The CROWN Act works to restore this connection, fostering an environment where wellness extends to the freedom of self-expression, where the rituals of care and the stories of generations can continue without fear of judgment.
This legislation is a powerful marker on the path towards a more equitable world, one where the beauty of every curl, coil, and loc is acknowledged not as a trend, but as a cherished inheritance. The Act stands as a beacon, guiding us towards a future where the diverse tapestries of humanity are celebrated, where every individual can wear their cultural story with dignity and pride. It is a step in ensuring that the tender thread of textured hair heritage remains unbroken, resilient, and ever-present.

References
- Byrd, Ayana, and Lori Tharps. Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press, 2001.
- Dabiri, Emma. Twisted ❉ The Tangled History of Black Hair Culture. Harper Perennial, 2020.
- Dove and LinkedIn. 2023 CROWN Workplace Research Study. 2023.
- Kimbell, Regina. My Nappy Roots ❉ A Journey Through Black Hair-itage. One Village Entertainment, 2004.
- Rooks, Noliwe M. Hair Raising ❉ Beauty, Culture, and African American Women. Rutgers University Press, 1996.