What is the CROWN Act’s connection to hair heritage?

Roots

The very strands that spring from our scalps, spiraling with resilient grace, hold stories far older than any recorded text. They are living archives, each coil and curve a testament to migrations, triumphs, and the quiet dignity of ancestors. For those whose lineage traces back to the vastness of Africa and its diasporic currents, hair is more than a biological phenomenon; it is a profound connection to a heritage that has endured centuries of shifting sands and turbulent seas. This understanding forms the bedrock of why a legislative initiative like the CROWN Act matters so deeply to the soul of a strand, for it seeks to protect not just a style, but a sacred part of identity.

Before the shackles and the ships, before the forced disconnections, African societies understood hair as a visual language. It communicated stories of age, marital status, tribal belonging, spiritual inclination, and even wealth. Intricate designs, often passed down through generations, were not merely decorative. They served as maps, symbols of community, and expressions of a rich inner world.

The Himba people of Namibia, for instance, have traditionally styled their hair with red ochre paste, a practice signifying their connection to the earth and their ancestors. This profound relationship with hair speaks to a time when outward presentation was deeply intertwined with one’s place in the cosmic and communal order.

Ancient Echoes of Hair Identity

Consider the ancient Egyptians and the Kushites, whose meticulous temple carvings and relief sculptures depict figures adorned with tightly coiled braids and cornrow styles. These practices highlighted a commitment to tradition and a robust cultural pride. Hair care was a communal activity, particularly among African women, strengthening bonds while preserving cultural identity through shared rituals. Natural ingredients from the earth, such as shea butter, coconut oil, and aloe vera, nourished and protected these ancestral strands, a wisdom of botanical care passed down through time.

For many, the coils and curves of hair are not merely biological formations but profound connections to ancestral stories and enduring identity.

The Biology of Coiled Strands

From a scientific lens, textured hair, particularly afro-textured hair, possesses unique properties. It is characterized by its tight, spiral-shaped curls, giving it a dense appearance. Evolutionary biologists propose that this specific hair type developed in early human ancestors as an adaptation, providing natural protection against intense ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun, while also allowing air circulation to the scalp. The elliptical shape of the hair follicle and the way the hair shaft twists upon itself contribute to its distinct curl pattern and porosity, making it prone to dryness but also remarkably versatile.

This inherent structural difference means textured hair often requires particular care, a fact understood intuitively by generations who developed traditional methods for its health. These methods, from protective styling to specialized ingredient applications, were not just aesthetic choices; they were responses to the hair’s elemental biology within its natural environment.

From Adornment to Assimilation How Did Hair Become a Battleground?

The transatlantic slave trade, a period of unimaginable rupture, marked a forced severing from this ancestral reverence for hair. Enslaved Africans were often stripped of their traditional tools and natural hair care methods; their hair was sometimes shaved as a means of control, a brutal, visual act of identity erasure. The standards of beauty they encountered in the Americas prioritized fair skin, straight hair, and delicate features, directly contrasting their own appearances.

Survival, in many instances, meant conforming. Enslaved people sometimes mimicked the hairstyles of their enslavers, straightening their coils with heat or slicking them down with homemade mixtures.

Yet, even under such oppressive conditions, acts of resistance persisted. Braiding continued, often discreetly, preserving African patterns and a subtle link to their homeland. Consider the infamous Tignon Laws of 1786 in Louisiana, which mandated that free Black women cover their elaborate hairstyles with a tignon, a head scarf. This law was a deliberate attempt to assert social hierarchy and prevent Black women from drawing the attention of white men, effectively marking them as being closer to enslaved women.

However, Black women reclaimed this imposition, transforming plain headwraps into vibrant, ornate statements, thereby creating a new cultural expression. This defiance, the transformation of an oppressive mandate into a symbol of pride, serves as an early, powerful demonstration of the enduring heritage of resilience in the face of discrimination.

Ritual

The concept of care for textured hair, for Black and mixed-race communities, transcends simple grooming. It is a ritual, a profound engagement with one’s body and spirit that echoes ancestral practices and affirms identity. Through generations of adaptation and ingenuity, styling techniques and tools have become integral to this care, a living tradition passed down through familial hands. The CROWN Act, in its protective stance, acknowledges these deeply personal and culturally significant actions, seeking to safeguard them from the gaze of those who would misunderstand or diminish their value.

The Resilience of Hair Rituals

Even after slavery’s formal end, the pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards continued, with many feeling that altering their hair’s texture was essential for social and economic advancement. The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw the rise of inventions like the hot comb, popularized by figures like Madam C.J. Walker, offering a way for Black women to straighten their hair. Yet, alongside these adaptive measures, the deep-seated cultural significance of natural styles never faded.

The 1960s and 1970s saw a powerful resurgence with the Black Power Movement, where the Afro became a prominent symbol of resistance, pride, and a reclaiming of roots. This was a visual declaration that Black was beautiful, in every natural coil and kink.

Today, protective styles like braids, locs, twists, and Bantu knots are not simply fashion statements; they are practical, healthy, and culturally significant practices. They protect delicate strands from environmental stressors and reduce breakage, promoting growth and overall hair health. The continuation of these styles represents an unbroken link to ancient practices, a conscious decision to carry forward a rich heritage in a modern world.

Beyond Aesthetics How do Styles Protect Heritage and Health?

The act of styling textured hair often extends beyond its immediate appearance. For many, it becomes a method of communication, a connection to community, and a means of preserving well-being. Consider the meticulous work involved in creating cornrows, which in West Africa were not only practical but also identifiers of ethnic backgrounds and geographical locations.

During enslavement, these intricate styles even served as covert maps for escape routes. This historical reality underscores how deeply practical, protective styling is bound to survival and heritage .

The CROWN Act recognizes this deeper meaning. By prohibiting discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles, it affirms that these styles are often integral to the cultural identity of Black individuals. The Act does not merely protect a choice of hairstyle; it protects a choice to exist authentically, to carry one’s heritage visibly without fear of reprisal.

Styling textured hair is a purposeful act, often entwined with health preservation, cultural affirmation, and the continuity of ancestral wisdom.

The Language of Locs and Braids A Cultural Lexicon

Each style carries its own resonance.

• Locs ❉ These matted strands, often seen as spiritual or symbolizing freedom, represent a journey of natural growth and a deep connection to ancestral traditions. Historically, locs have appeared in various cultures globally, but in the context of the African diaspora, they often signify a rejection of imposed beauty standards and an embrace of one’s inherent self.
• Braids (including cornrows, box braids, Fulani braids) ❉ These structured arrangements are ancient, with historical evidence stretching back thousands of years across Africa. They are not only practical for managing and protecting textured hair but also carry social, marital, and even spiritual significance depending on the patterns and adornments.
• Afros ❉ A powerful symbol of the Black Power Movement and the “Black is Beautiful” aesthetic of the 1960s and 70s, the Afro became a bold, unapologetic statement of racial pride and self-acceptance, directly challenging Eurocentric beauty norms.
• Bantu Knots ❉ Originating from the Zulu people of Southern Africa, these coiled, knot-like formations are a versatile protective style that can be worn as is or used to achieve defined curls when unraveled. They represent a clear link to a specific African cultural legacy.

These styles, and many others, are a testament to the resilience and creativity of Black and mixed-race communities in maintaining their hair heritage . They are living testaments to traditions that have survived, adapted, and continue to flourish. The CROWN Act’s focus on these specific styles highlights its direct connection to the recognition and protection of this cultural lexicon.

Relay

The CROWN Act, born from the persistent struggle against hair discrimination, serves as a legislative response to a long history of cultural policing. It acts as a crucial relay, carrying the message of heritage protection from the lived experiences of Black and mixed-race individuals into the realm of legal protection. For generations, discriminatory policies, often disguised as “professionalism” or “grooming standards,” have disproportionately affected people of African descent, creating barriers in schools and workplaces alike. This legislation seeks to rectify these historical wrongs and affirm the right to cultural expression through hair.

The Weight of Appearance Societal Pressures and Their Toll

The impact of hair discrimination is not theoretical; it is a lived reality with tangible consequences for individuals, affecting their educational paths and career trajectories. A 2020 study conducted by Michigan State University and Duke University found that Black women with natural hairstyles are significantly less likely to be recommended for job interviews compared to white women or Black women with straightened hair. This research also revealed that natural Black hairstyles such as afros, twists, or braids were often perceived as less professional.

The implications of such bias extend deeply. The 2019 Dove CROWN Research Study for Women indicated that Black women are 1.5 times more likely to be sent home from work because of their hair. The pressure to conform is immense; 80% of Black women reported feeling they needed to change their hairstyle to align with more conservative standards to fit in at work.

These statistics highlight a systemic problem where cultural authenticity is penalized, forcing individuals to choose between their heritage and their livelihoods. Chasity Jones, a Black woman in Alabama, had a job offer rescinded in 2013 because she refused to cut her locs, a case that garnered national attention and underscored the urgent need for protective legislation.

Hair discrimination perpetuates systemic racism, forcing individuals to choose between authentic expression and economic opportunity.

The struggle begins early in life. The 2021 Dove CROWN Research Study for Girls revealed troubling data ❉ 53% of Black mothers reported their daughters experienced racial discrimination based on hairstyles as early as five years old, and 66% of Black children in majority-white schools faced such discrimination. Such experiences can lead to feelings of othering, enforcing harmful stereotypes, and policing Black identity.

A Legislative Journey The CROWN Act’s Path

The CROWN Act, an acronym for “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” was first introduced in California in 2019 by State Senator Holly J. Mitchell. It passed unanimously in both legislative chambers of California and was signed into law, making California the first state to explicitly ban discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles like braids, locs, and twists. This landmark legislation clarified that existing anti-discrimination laws, such as Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, while prohibiting race-based discrimination, often did not adequately address discrimination against hairstyles intrinsically linked to race.

Early court rulings, such as the 1981 case involving Renee Rogers who sued American Airlines for being forced to cover her cornrows, often sided with employers on the grounds that braids were not an immutable racial characteristic, unlike the afro. The CROWN Act seeks to close this legal loophole.

Since California’s pioneering move, the CROWN Act has gained momentum, with numerous states following suit. While a federal CROWN Act passed the U.S. House of Representatives in March 2022, it failed to clear the Senate.

Despite this setback, the movement continues, with federal legislation being reintroduced, highlighting the ongoing national effort to ensure consistent protections. The Act aims to make it clear that discrimination based on hair texture and culturally significant hairstyles is prohibited across federally assisted programs, housing, public accommodations, and employment.

The specific hairstyles often targeted by discriminatory policies and now protected under the CROWN Act typically include:

• Locs ❉ Seen as unprofessional by some, despite their deeply rooted cultural and historical significance.
• Braids ❉ Encompassing various styles from cornrows to box braids, these ancient styles have faced undue scrutiny.
• Twists ❉ A versatile and protective style, often deemed “unprofessional” in formal settings.
• Afros ❉ Despite their historical role in the Civil Rights Movement as symbols of Black pride, they continue to face bias.
• Bantu Knots ❉ A traditional style that has been a target of discriminatory grooming policies.

Beyond Law The Enduring Power of Hair Identity

The CROWN Act extends beyond legal compliance; it is a call for a broader societal shift towards genuine acceptance and celebration of Black and mixed-race heritage . It serves as an affirmation of Black culture and identity, recognizing the deep cultural significance of these hairstyles. The legislation plays a vital role in promoting equity and inclusion by challenging Eurocentric standards of appearance that have historically marginalized individuals. When organizations align with the CROWN Act, they communicate a commitment to valuing all aspects of diversity, allowing individuals to present their authentic selves without fear.

The long-standing struggle against hair discrimination echoes the broader fight for racial equality. Historically, legal precedents like Plessy v. Ferguson (1896) established “separate but equal,” which, in practice, led to decades of pervasive racial discrimination. While Plessy primarily concerned segregation in public facilities, the underlying sentiment that racial characteristics could justify differential treatment resonated through various aspects of life, including appearance norms.

The CROWN Act, in its own way, confronts a similar insidious form of racial bias, demonstrating that the fight for equitable treatment encompasses personal presentation, particularly when that presentation is intrinsically tied to one’s racial and cultural heritage . The Act seeks to ensure that the unique textures and styles of Black hair are never again used as a pretext for denying opportunity or belonging.

Reflection

The journey of textured hair is a testament to resilience, a continuous narrative woven through history, science, and the deepest expressions of self. From ancient African practices, where coils and braids were living symbols of community and spiritual connection, to the persistent battles against imposed beauty standards in the diaspora, hair has always been more than mere adornment. It is a crown, a deeply personal and public marker of heritage , dignity, and spirit. The CROWN Act stands as a beacon on this long path, a legislative acknowledgment that the right to wear one’s natural hair, in its myriad forms, is a fundamental aspect of human rights and cultural identity.

Yet, even with legal protections in place, the true work continues. It asks us to look beyond policy and truly see the person beneath the hair, to understand the ancestral whispers carried within each strand. It invites us to celebrate the unique biology of textured hair, the ingenuity of traditional care rituals, and the profound beauty that arises when individuals are free to express their authentic selves.

The “Soul of a Strand” ethos calls us to approach hair care, and indeed life, with reverence—to honor the past, live vibrantly in the present, and pave a future where every texture is not just tolerated, but truly seen, cherished, and celebrated as an indelible part of the human story. This ongoing embrace, far beyond any legal mandate, ensures the living library of hair heritage continues to grow, unbound and radiant.