What is the ancestral connection of textured hair discrimination?

Roots

For those who carry the coiled strength of textured hair, the story of discrimination is not a distant echo, but a deep pulse within the ancestral memory. It is a narrative woven into the very fabric of identity, a journey that begins not with scorn, but with reverence. Before the shadows of colonial imposition stretched across continents, textured hair in African societies was a crown, a map, a living archive.

Its intricate patterns, its varied textures, and the meticulous care bestowed upon it spoke volumes about a person’s lineage, social standing, marital status, age, and spiritual connection. Hair was a conduit, believed by many ancient cultures to be the entry point for spiritual energy, a direct link to the divine and to those who walked before us (Afriklens, 2024).

Across diverse African kingdoms, hairstyles served as visual lexicons. A particular braid might signal readiness for marriage, while another conveyed a specific tribal affiliation or even a state of mourning. Tools crafted from wood, bone, and natural fibers, alongside ingredients from the earth – clays, oils, and herbs – formed the basis of care rituals passed down through generations.

These practices were not merely cosmetic; they were acts of communal bonding, expressions of artistry, and affirmations of self within a collective heritage. The hair was a canvas for stories, a testament to a people’s history and their place in the world.

The story of textured hair discrimination finds its genesis not in an inherent flaw of the hair itself, but in the systematic dismantling of ancestral reverence for its beauty and significance.

The brutal arrival of the transatlantic slave trade shattered this sacred connection. Africans, forcibly uprooted from their homelands, endured a calculated assault on their identity. A cruel, symbolic act often marked the beginning of this erasure ❉ the involuntary shaving of heads upon arrival in the ‘New World’ (Byrd & Tharps, 2001; Sieber, 1999).

This was presented as a measure against disease, yet its deeper purpose was clear ❉ to strip individuals of their cultural markers, sever their ties to ancestral practices, and dehumanize them, reducing them to mere chattel. The hair, once a vibrant expression of self and community, became a target for scorn, deemed “unruly,” “unprofessional,” or “unclean” by European standards (Umthi, 2023).

This historical shift was not accidental; it was a deliberate strategy to establish a hierarchy of beauty rooted in European ideals, a system designed to justify enslavement and subsequent subjugation. Textured hair, with its unique characteristics, was deemed antithetical to this imposed standard. The language itself became a weapon; terms like “wool” or “cotton” were used to describe Black hair, further diminishing human dignity and drawing parallels to livestock (Moses, 2020). This dehumanization, a stark departure from ancestral veneration, laid the groundwork for centuries of discrimination.

How did colonial powers weaponize hair’s natural form?

The imposition of European beauty standards extended beyond mere rhetoric, manifesting in codified laws designed to control and suppress. A compelling historical example stands in the Tignon Laws of 1786 in Spanish colonial Louisiana. Governor Esteban Rodríguez Miró, observing the elaborate and regal hairstyles of free Black women in New Orleans, perceived their vibrant displays of hair as a challenge to the social order and a threat to the supposed superiority of white women (Miró, 1786, cited in Royal Tours, 2016). These women, many of whom were of African descent and had achieved a degree of economic independence, used their hair, adorned with jewels, ribbons, and feathers, as a powerful statement of their identity and prosperity (Royal Tours, 2016).

In response, Miró issued a decree requiring free Black women to cover their hair with a Tignon, a simple scarf or handkerchief, ostensibly to distinguish them from white women and visually align them with the enslaved class (Miró, 1786, cited in Royal Tours, 2016). The intent was clear ❉ to diminish their allure, assert social control, and enforce racial hierarchies. Yet, in a profound act of ancestral defiance, these women transformed the symbol of oppression into an expression of enduring heritage.

They donned tignons made of the finest, most colorful fabrics, tying them in intricate, artful ways, often incorporating the very adornments the law sought to forbid beneath the wraps (Royal Tours, 2016). This creative resistance not only subverted the law’s intent but also gave birth to a new cultural tradition, a testament to their unwavering spirit and the enduring power of self-expression.

Ritual

Stepping from the foundational understanding of textured hair’s historical roots, we arrive at the living practices that shape our interaction with its inherent splendor. The rituals of hair care, once steeped in communal wisdom and ancestral reverence, underwent a profound metamorphosis under the weight of discriminatory pressures. The forced severance from traditional ways of being, coupled with the pervasive influence of Eurocentric beauty ideals, birthed new forms of hair management, often at the expense of health and authentic self-expression.

For generations, the desire to conform to dominant beauty standards, which privileged straight or loosely waved hair, led many Black and mixed-race individuals to adopt practices that altered their natural curl patterns. The advent of the Hot Comb and chemical Relaxers offered a pathway, albeit a damaging one, to achieve the coveted straightened appearance (Walker, 1906, cited in Vercida, 2021). These methods, while offering a semblance of acceptance in a world that often rejected their natural selves, frequently resulted in scalp burns, hair breakage, and long-term damage (Scott, 1988, cited in Innovatief in Werk, 2021). The pursuit of “good hair,” a concept deeply intertwined with proximity to whiteness, became a psychological and physical burden, a testament to the insidious nature of inherited discrimination (JSTOR Daily, 2019).

How did historical oppression reshape hair care traditions?

The ancestral connection to textured hair discrimination is profoundly evident in the internal and external pressures that dictated styling choices. Enslaved people, stripped of their tools and communal spaces, improvised with what was available, sometimes using substances like butter or even kerosene for hair care, a stark contrast to the nourishing botanicals of their homelands (Library of Congress, 2021). Despite these immense challenges, a quiet resistance persisted.

Sundays, often the sole day of rest, became communal moments for hair care, where women would braid and tend to each other’s hair, passing down techniques and maintaining a connection to their heritage (Library of Congress, 2021). Some even braided maps into their hair, a clandestine act of resistance and a guide to freedom (Citizens Advice, 2021).

The mid-20th century saw a powerful resurgence, a collective awakening that sought to reclaim ancestral pride. The Black is Beautiful movement, arising from the Civil Rights era, championed natural hairstyles as a statement of identity, liberation, and cultural affirmation (Vercida, 2021). The Afro, a voluminous crown of coils, became a potent symbol of defiance against oppressive beauty norms, signaling a profound reconnection with African ancestry and a rejection of the internalized shame associated with textured hair (Citizens Advice, 2021). This period marked a conscious decision to divest from Eurocentric ideals and embrace the inherent beauty of Blackness in its authentic form.

The journey from ancestral hair veneration to forced alteration, and then to a conscious reclamation, reveals the enduring spirit of textured hair heritage.

This re-engagement with natural hair prompted a renewed interest in traditional styling techniques and the development of new methods that honored the hair’s intrinsic structure. Styles like Cornrows, Braids, and Locs, which had deep historical roots in various African cultures, gained widespread recognition and acceptance as expressions of beauty and heritage.

• Cornrows ❉ Ancient African origins, serving as markers of social status, religion, and tribal identity. They were also practical for labor and could even conceal escape routes or seeds during enslavement (Citizens Advice, 2021).
• Braids ❉ A universal language across African cultures, conveying marital status, age, and community standing. Their protective nature also shielded hair from environmental damage.
• Locs ❉ A symbol of spiritual devotion, strength, and defiance in various African communities, later adopted as a powerful statement of Black identity and resistance.

The evolution of styling tools also reflects this journey. From rudimentary implements used in times of hardship to the specialized combs and brushes available today, each tool tells a story of adaptation and innovation. The modern textured hair toolkit, while benefiting from scientific advancements, often mirrors the principles of gentle manipulation and protective styling that defined ancestral practices. This continuum, from ancient adornment to contemporary celebration, underscores how the echoes of discrimination have spurred a resilient and beautiful re-affirmation of heritage.

Relay

As we trace the lineage of textured hair discrimination, a deeper inquiry arises ❉ how does this ancestral burden continue to shape cultural narratives and influence future hair traditions? The answer resides in a complex interplay where biological realities, societal perceptions, and the enduring spirit of heritage converge. Moving beyond the historical overview, we now consider the profound psychological and social dimensions of this discrimination, illuminated by contemporary understanding.

The historical devaluation of textured hair left an indelible mark, manifesting as internalized racial oppression within Black and mixed-race communities. The concept of “good hair,” often linked to hair textures that approximate European standards, fostered a hierarchy that caused psychological distress and self-rejection (Lashley, 2020). Studies reveal that individuals with afro-textured hair frequently experience negative stereotypes, being perceived as less professional, less attractive, or even less human (Opie & Phillips, 2015; Mbilishaka, 2024).

This constant scrutiny and the pressure to conform lead to significant mental and emotional challenges, including anxiety, sadness, and feelings of inauthenticity (Mbilishaka, 2024; White-Jolivette, 2025). The very act of choosing a natural hairstyle can become a battleground for identity and self-worth.

The historical legacy of textured hair discrimination continues to influence self-perception and societal biases, necessitating a holistic approach to wellness and cultural affirmation.

Modern science offers a lens through which to dismantle these discriminatory myths, validating the inherent qualities of textured hair. The unique elliptical shape of the hair follicle, which gives rise to its characteristic coils and kinks, is not a flaw but a biological variation (University of Michigan, 2008). This structure, while requiring specific care, provides benefits such as natural volume and protective styling capabilities.

Understanding the science behind porosity, elasticity, and strand density allows for care practices that honor the hair’s natural state, moving away from damaging treatments imposed by Eurocentric ideals. This scientific understanding, when coupled with ancestral wisdom, empowers individuals to nurture their hair with respect for its biological blueprint and its historical journey.

What are the contemporary manifestations of historical hair bias?

The enduring influence of ancestral hair discrimination is evident in contemporary spaces, particularly in educational and professional environments. Despite growing awareness, policies and unwritten biases continue to penalize individuals for wearing natural or protective styles like locs, braids, and twists (Nkimbeng, Rumala, Richardson, Stewart-Isaacs, & Taylor, 2025). This systemic bias is often rooted in the colonial-era perception of textured hair as “unprofessional” or “untidy,” directly linking modern discrimination to its historical antecedents (Umthi, 2023).

The psychological toll is significant. A study by Dove (2019) revealed that Black women are 3.4 times more likely to be labeled unprofessional due to their hair and 1.5 times more likely to be sent home from work because of “unprofessional hair” (Dove, 2019, cited in Emerald Insight, 2023). This data underscores the persistent societal pressure to alter natural hair, with 80% of Black women reporting they have altered their hair texture to conform to organizational norms (Dove, 2019, cited in Emerald Insight, 2023). The struggle to reconcile personal identity with external expectations creates a continuous tension, impacting career opportunities and overall well-being.

The ongoing efforts to counteract this discrimination, such as the CROWN Act in the United States, represent a contemporary extension of the ancestral fight for self-determination. This legislation, which prohibits discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles, acknowledges the deep cultural and racial significance of hair (CROWN Act, 2019, cited in Pitts, 2024). It serves as a legal affirmation of the right to express one’s heritage without fear of reprisal, building upon the resilient acts of those who defied the Tignon Laws centuries ago. The movement for hair freedom is not merely about aesthetics; it is about human rights, cultural preservation, and the holistic well-being that comes from embracing one’s authentic self, deeply connected to ancestral lineage.

The reclamation of ancestral wisdom in hair care extends beyond mere products; it encompasses a holistic philosophy of self-care and communal well-being. This includes a return to nourishing practices, the use of natural ingredients, and the creation of sacred nighttime rituals that protect and honor the hair.

1. Traditional Oils and Butters ❉ Ancestral communities utilized plant-based oils (like shea butter, coconut oil, argan oil) for moisture retention and scalp health, practices now validated by modern trichology for their protective qualities.
2. Protective Styling as Preservation ❉ Styles like braids, twists, and cornrows, rooted in antiquity, reduce manipulation and shield delicate strands, echoing ancient wisdom for hair preservation.
3. Communal Care ❉ The shared experience of hair grooming, once a cornerstone of social life, finds contemporary expression in natural hair meetups and online communities that offer support and knowledge, reinforcing ancestral bonds.

Reflection

The journey through the ancestral connection of textured hair discrimination is not a recounting of distant sorrows, but a living testament to resilience and the enduring spirit of heritage. From the vibrant expressions of identity in ancient African kingdoms to the forced concealment of the Tignon Laws, and the ongoing struggle for affirmation in modern society, textured hair has consistently served as a powerful symbol. It has been a site of oppression, certainly, but more profoundly, a beacon of unwavering cultural memory and a canvas for defiance. The soul of a strand carries not just the curl pattern given at birth, but the echoes of ancestors who braided stories, healed with earth’s bounty, and resisted erasure with every adorned coil.

This understanding invites us to recognize that the care we give our textured hair today is not merely cosmetic; it is an act of honoring lineage, a reclamation of inherent beauty, and a continuous contribution to a living, breathing archive of identity and strength. The helix of our hair, unbound by past constraints, continues its luminous dance, a testament to the power of heritage in shaping our present and illuminating our collective future.

References

• Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. L. (2001). Hair story ❉ Untangling the roots of Black hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Citizens Advice. (2021, October 8). Black History Month – Reclaiming the Afro. Retrieved from Citizens Advice Bath & North East Somerset.
• Dove. (2019). The Dove CROWN Research Study ❉ Hair discrimination in the workplace. Unilever.
• Lashley, M. (2020). The importance of hair in the identity of Black people. Nouvelles pratiques sociales, 31(2), 206–227.
• Library of Congress. (2021). Heavy is the Head ❉ Evolution of African Hair in America from the 17th c. to the 20th c. Retrieved from The Library of Congress.
• Mbilishaka, A. M. (2024). Don’t Get It Twisted ❉ Untangling the Psychology of Hair Discrimination Within Black Communities. American Journal of Orthopsychiatry.
• Moses. (2020, September 1). Eurocentric beauty standards damaging to Black people. Marquette Wire.
• Nkimbeng, M. Rumala, B. B. M. Richardson, C. M. Stewart-Isaacs, S. E. & Taylor, J. L. (2025). The Person Beneath the Hair ❉ Hair Discrimination, Health, and Well-Being. Health Equity.
• Opie, T. & Phillips, S. (2015). Natural Hair Bias in the Workplace. The Industrial-Organizational Psychologist, 53(1), 12-19.
• Pitts, B. (2024). “Uneasy Lies the Head that Wears a Crown” ❉ A Critical Race Analysis of the CROWN Act. Journal of Human Rights and Social Work.
• Royal Tours. (2016, October 11). The Tignon Laws of Louisiana. Retrieved from Royal Tours New Orleans.
• Sieber, R. (1999). Hair in African Art and Culture. Museum for African Art.
• Umthi. (2023, September 14). The Cultural Significance and Representation of Afro-Textured Hair. Retrieved from Umthi.
• University of Michigan. (2008). Black Women and Identity ❉ What’s Hair Got to Do With It? Retrieved from University of Michigan.
• White-Jolivette, T. (2025). African American Women’s Experience of Wearing Natural Textured Hair (Doctoral dissertation, Walden University).