What is texturism and its influence on textured hair?

Roots

When we speak of textured hair, it is a conversation that reaches far beyond the tangible strands that crown a head. It speaks to lineage, to ancestral whispers carried on the wind, to the very earth from which our stories sprung. To ignore the intricate narrative of textured hair is to ignore a living archive, rich with resilience and profound wisdom. Yet, there exists a shadow in this luminous history, a prejudice that has sought to dim its inherent brilliance ❉ texturism.

Texturism represents a form of discrimination, a societal bias that elevates certain curl patterns and textures above others, often favoring those perceived as closer to European standards of straight or loosely waved hair. This hierarchy, insidious in its reach, has deep roots in a colonial past that sought to dismantle cultural identity and impose a singular, narrow vision of beauty upon a diverse world. It is a system that has long devalued the tight coils, the magnificent kinks, and the robust density that are the very hallmarks of Black and mixed-race hair heritage.

The origins of texturism lie woven into the historical fabric of racial subjugation, seeking to categorize and diminish specific hair types.

The Genesis of a Bias in Hair’s Anatomy

The earliest formal attempts to categorize hair, in a manner that seeded the ground for texturism, are chillingly linked to the pseudoscientific pursuits of racial differentiation. In the early 1900s, Eugen Fischer, a German Nazi scientist and ardent eugenicist, conceived a hair-typing model using a “hair gauge” to measure and categorize hair textures. This system was employed in present-day Namibia to determine individuals’ “proximity to whiteness” based on their hair’s texture, a practice that directly contributed to the dehumanization and subjugation of indigenous Namibian people during a period of mass genocide (Asare, 2022). This horrific historical instance demonstrates how the very act of classifying hair, severed from its cultural context, became a tool of oppression, designed to establish a false hierarchy and justify unspeakable acts.

Pre-colonial African societies, by contrast, harbored no such superficial classifications. Hair was understood as a living extension of self, a sacred antenna connecting individuals to spiritual realms and ancestral wisdom (Oriowo, 2024). Its anatomy, its inherent coil, was celebrated, not critiqued. Styles communicated social standing, age, marital status, tribal affiliation, and even religious beliefs (BLAM UK CIC, 2022).

The diversity of textures across the continent, from the tightly coiled strands of the Maasai to the varied patterns of West African communities, was a source of cultural pride and communal recognition. This understanding was rooted in the knowledge that hair’s structural nuances spoke to unique strengths and capabilities, not perceived deficiencies.

How Did Colonialism Distort Hair Identity?

The transatlantic slave trade marked a cataclysmic rupture in this holistic understanding of hair. Upon forced arrival in unfamiliar lands, enslaved Africans often had their heads shaved, an act designed to strip away identity, erase cultural markers, and psychologically control them (Halo Collective, 2022). This brutal act of dehumanization laid bare the intention to sever the enslaved from their rich heritage, including the profound meanings held within their hairstyles. The concept of “good hair” began to take hold, favoring looser curl patterns and straighter textures that mimicked European hair, while tightly coiled hair was denigrated as “nappy” or “wooly” (SUSU, 2023; Halo Collective, 2022).

This false dichotomy directly influenced the social structures of slavery, where individuals with hair perceived as “straighter” or “lighter” might receive slightly less brutal treatment or be assigned to more desirable positions within the enslaver’s household (Odele Beauty, 2021). The internalized prejudice from this era, where one’s hair texture could literally determine one’s fate, has echoed through generations, manifesting as texturism even within Black communities today.

The very lexicon used to describe textured hair became tainted by this historical bias. Terms now commonly used to categorize curl patterns, such as the Andre Walker hair typing system, while perhaps originally intended for practical styling guidance, have been widely criticized for perpetuating the hierarchical notions of texturism (Forbes, 2022). The numerical and alphabetical classifications, despite their utility, sometimes inadvertently reinforce the idea that 4C hair is “less desirable” or “more difficult” than 3A, reflecting an unconscious bias ingrained by centuries of Eurocentric beauty standards. The continuing journey for those with textured hair involves a conscious unlearning of these imposed narratives, a reclamation of the truth that every coil, every kink, holds its own inherent beauty and ancestral story.

Ritual

The hands that tend to textured hair perform a ritual, a connection across time that speaks of both ancestral ingenuity and contemporary self-determination. Hair styling is never a mere aesthetic choice for those with textured hair; it is a profound act, imbued with cultural memory and the weight of history. Texturism, in its pervasive influence, has long sought to dictate these rituals, to push Black and mixed-race individuals toward styles that minimize their natural coils, imposing a Eurocentric ideal upon hair that naturally defies it. This pressure often manifested in the pursuit of temporary or permanent alteration, yet even in moments of imposed conformity, the spirit of ancestral creativity found ways to adapt and persist.

Styling textured hair is a living dialogue between ancestral wisdom and the persistent pressures of texturism.

How Has Texturism Influenced Hair Styling Practices?

Historically, the policing of Black hair led to the widespread adoption of methods designed to straighten or “tame” natural texture. The hot comb, for instance, introduced by figures like Madam C.J. Walker, provided a chemical-free way to achieve straightened styles, yet its prevalence also underscored the societal demand for conformity (WordPress.com, Simeon). While Walker’s innovations provided economic independence and a safer alternative to harsh chemical relaxers, the very need for such tools stemmed from a beauty standard rooted in the devaluation of natural Afro-textured hair.

The pursuit of “sleek” or “manageable” hair became intertwined with perceived social and professional acceptance, with many feeling compelled to alter their natural hair to navigate workplaces and educational institutions (TestGorilla, 2024). A 2023 study by the CROWN Coalition reported that in the USA, about two-thirds of BIPOC women changed their hairstyle for job interviews, with 41% deciding to straighten their hair to better fit a Western stereotype (Estetica Magazine, 2023). This statistic reveals the enduring practical influence of texturism on styling choices, showcasing how deep-seated biases continue to shape individual actions within the community.

Despite this historical pressure, traditional African styling techniques have persisted and, in recent decades, witnessed a powerful resurgence. These techniques, often serving protective functions, are a testament to the resilience of heritage.

• Braids ❉ Braiding traditions, dating back thousands of years in African cultures (BLAM UK CIC, 2022), were not simply aesthetic but conveyed complex information about one’s tribe, social status, and marital standing (BLAM UK CIC, 2022). During the transatlantic slave trade, enslaved women ingeniously braided rice seeds into their hair for survival and used cornrows as maps to escape plantations (BLAM UK CIC, 2022; Creative Support, 2022). This practice underscores the profound connection between hair, survival, and resistance against oppressive systems.
• Twists ❉ Two-strand twists and Senegalese twists, among others, are rooted in ancient methods of protecting and defining textured hair (Vegamour, 2021). They are not merely stylistic but serve to lock in moisture and minimize manipulation, honoring the hair’s delicate structure.
• Headwraps ❉ Beyond their decorative qualities, headwraps historically provided protection from elements and were mandated by laws like the 1786 Tignon Law in Louisiana, which required Black and Creole women to cover their hair (Creative Support, 2022). Yet, Black women subverted these laws by adorning their wraps with elaborate fabrics and jewels, transforming a symbol of subjugation into an act of defiant beauty and cultural expression (Ella & Jade, 2021).

From Ancestral Tools to Modern Innovations

The tools used in textured hair care and styling also carry a lineage. The Afro comb , for instance, boasts a history stretching back 7,000 years, with archaeological finds in ancient Kush and Kemet (modern-day Sudan, South Sudan, and Egypt) revealing ornate designs on these long-toothed instruments (Africa Rebirth, 2022). These combs were not just functional implements; they served as status symbols and decorative adornments, reflecting a deep respect for both hair and artistry (Africa Rebirth, 2022). The very act of communal hair grooming, often performed in a village setting, was a social activity that strengthened communal bonds and facilitated the sharing of knowledge (Halo Collective, 2022).

Modern hair care has seen a re-evaluation of these traditional tools and techniques, often validating the wisdom of ancestral practices through scientific understanding. The rise of wide-tooth combs, detangling brushes, and specialized tools reflects a growing appreciation for handling textured hair with care, echoing the gentle approach inherent in historical methods.

The journey to re-establish the inherent beauty of textured hair involves a conscious re-engagement with these heritage practices. It is a defiant act against the lingering effects of texturism, allowing individuals to style their hair not out of societal pressure, but out of a genuine appreciation for its unique capabilities and the rich history it carries. The modern natural hair movement, which gained momentum in the 2000s, directly challenges the notion that textured hair needs to be “fixed,” instead promoting acceptance and celebration of all curl patterns (SUSU, 2023). This movement, in many ways, serves as a bridge, connecting contemporary individuals with the powerful and varied styling heritage that predates colonial impositions.

Relay

The journey of textured hair is a continuous relay, a passing of wisdom from one generation to the next, a testament to the enduring spirit of resilience and wellness. Texturism, while a historical burden, continues to cast its shadow, making holistic care and problem-solving for textured hair not just about physical health, but about psychological well-being and cultural reclamation. Roothea’s ethos understands that true radiance begins with a deep, ancestral respect for the body and spirit, recognizing that hair health is intrinsically linked to overall vitality and identity.

Holistic textured hair care serves as a vital pathway to healing, connecting ancestral wellness practices with modern well-being.

How Does Texturism Inform Holistic Care and Problem Solving?

The negative impact of texturism extends far beyond superficial appearance, deeply affecting self-esteem and mental health within Black and mixed-race communities. Individuals with tightly coiled hair, often labeled as “unprofessional” or “unkempt,” face societal pressures that can cause anxiety and depression (KBIA, 2023; TestGorilla, 2024). This phenomenon, sometimes termed “hair depression,” highlights the psychological burden of conforming to Eurocentric beauty standards (KBIA, 2023; Mbilishaka, 2024).

The constant worry about how one’s hair is perceived in professional or social settings, a direct consequence of texturism, can contribute to self-doubt and lower self-worth (Oriowo, 2024). This historical and ongoing trauma necessitates a holistic approach to hair care, one that acknowledges the interconnectedness of hair, mind, and spirit.

Ancestral wellness philosophies from Africa consistently emphasized this interconnectedness. The head, regarded as the most elevated part of the human body, was revered as a portal for spirits and a determinant of destiny (Halo Collective, 2022; Wahl UK, 2021). Care for the physical head was as vital as care for the spiritual self, making hair rituals acts of profound spiritual significance (Wahl UK, 2021). These traditions offer a powerful antidote to the fragmentation caused by texturism, providing a framework for healing and self-acceptance.

Nighttime Sanctuaries and Bonnet Wisdom

The nighttime ritual, often overlooked in broader beauty narratives, holds a profound historical and practical significance for textured hair. Sleep protection, particularly through the use of bonnets and headscarves, is not a modern invention but a practice rooted in ancestral wisdom. In many African cultures, headwraps served practical purposes of protecting hair from environmental elements, while also conveying social information (Creative Support, 2022).

As enslaved Africans were forced to adapt to harsh conditions, head coverings became essential for protecting hair that could not be tended to with traditional care (Creative Support, 2022; Livara, 2023). This tradition evolved into the widespread use of bonnets and silk scarves today, serving to:

1. Reduce Friction ❉ Silk and satin materials minimize friction against pillowcases, preventing breakage, frizz, and tangles that can compromise hair health.
2. Preserve Moisture ❉ These materials help to retain the natural oils and moisture applied to the hair, which is vital for preventing dryness and brittleness in textured strands.
3. Maintain Styles ❉ Protecting hair overnight helps to preserve intricate styles like braids, twists, or blowouts, extending their longevity and reducing the need for daily manipulation.

The “bonnet wisdom” passed down through generations represents a tangible act of self-care and preservation, a quiet defiance against the notion that textured hair is inherently difficult or unruly. It transforms a simple sleep accessory into a tool for maintaining health and honoring heritage.

Ingredients from the Earth ❉ Ancestral Remedies for Hair Health

Before the advent of synthetic formulations, ancestral communities relied on the bounty of the earth for their hair care needs. These natural ingredients, often locally sourced, offer profound insights into holistic hair health that modern science often validates (Seriously FAB, 2025).

Consider Shea Butter (Asare, 2022). Sourced from the Karite tree, particularly from the Sahel belt in Africa, it has been used for centuries for its moisturizing and protective properties (Obscure Histories, 2024). Ancestral practices employed it not only for hair conditioning but also for skin health, highlighting a holistic view of bodily care. Its continued popularity today, across the globe, speaks to its efficacy and historical significance.

Another powerful example is Chébé powder , hailing from the Northern Chad mountains. This traditional blend, made from the seeds of the Chébé plant, is reputed among the Bassara/Baggara Arab tribe in Chad for its ability to promote long, lustrous hair (Obscure Histories, 2024). Its use reflects an ancient understanding of botanical properties and their application to hair health.

Many African wellness traditions view health through a communal and spiritual lens, where physical ailments are connected to spiritual or emotional well-being (Happi, 2022; ESOFT Lifelong Learning, 2024). This deep understanding means that a problem with hair, whether it be breakage or dryness, is not viewed in isolation, but as part of a larger systemic picture of individual and collective health. Therefore, problem-solving for textured hair goes beyond simply addressing symptoms; it involves understanding root causes, seeking ancestral remedies, and re-establishing a harmonious relationship with one’s hair, a relationship often fractured by the impositions of texturism. Embracing this holistic perspective, steeped in heritage, allows individuals to build regimens that are not only effective but also deeply affirming, restoring a sense of pride and connection to their strands.

Reflection

The journey through texturism and its profound influence on textured hair heritage is a testament to both the persistent forces that have sought to diminish a part of identity, and the enduring spirit that has relentlessly, lovingly, protected and celebrated it. It is a living, breathing archive of human experience, etched into every coil, every wave, every tightly wound strand. The ‘Soul of a Strand’ ethos reminds us that hair is more than keratin and protein; it is a conduit for stories, a repository of ancestral knowledge, and a powerful canvas for self-expression.

To understand texturism is to confront a legacy of imposed beauty standards, a system that attempted to sever connections to a rich and vibrant past. Yet, within this confrontation lies a remarkable resilience. The historical accounts of communal hair care, the ingenious ways enslaved people preserved their heritage through styling, and the powerful resurgence of natural hair movements all speak to a profound refusal to let a part of self be erased. This ongoing act of reclaiming, of learning, and of honoring ancestral practices, transforms problem-solving for textured hair into an act of healing—a collective journey towards self-acceptance and affirmation.

Each gentle detangling, each protective braid, each intentional application of natural oils, becomes a deliberate step towards mending historical fractures and celebrating the inherent, defiant beauty of every unique texture. The story of textured hair is still being written, and it is a story of liberation, of heritage, and of an unbound future where every strand stands tall, proud, and authentically its own.