What is CROWN Act’s heritage purpose?

Roots

For generations, the hair upon our heads, particularly the curls and coils that spring forth in wondrous patterns, has told a story. It speaks of earth, of lineage, of sun-drenched paths and whispered wisdom. For those whose ancestry traces through the African diaspora, this story is etched deeply, a living archive of identity and resilience. The CROWN Act, a contemporary legislative stride, is not merely a legal instrument of the present moment.

Its true purpose, its very soul, reaches back through the ages, rooted in the enduring heritage of textured hair—a heritage that has too often been misunderstood, disparaged, and indeed, legislated against. It is a profound acknowledgment of the intrinsic connection between our coiled strands and the very essence of who we are, a testament to struggles long endured and beauty persistently affirmed.

Consider, if you will, the elemental biology of textured hair. Its elliptical follicle shape, dictating the spiraling path of each strand as it emerges from the scalp, creates a distinct architecture. This architecture, though simply a matter of keratin and cellular arrangement to the detached eye, carries immense cultural weight. From ancient times, the natural inclination of Black hair to coil, to dread, to braid, was celebrated as a mark of beauty, social standing, and spiritual connection across African civilizations.

The CROWN Act reaches into this historical wellspring, asserting that this fundamental, biological reality of hair should be a source of pride, not prejudice. It declares that the very fabric of one’s inherited being, as expressed through hair, warrants respect and protection within societal spaces.

Hair Anatomy and Its Ancestral Language

Understanding the heritage purpose of the CROWN Act first requires a return to the foundations ❉ the very anatomy and physiology of textured hair. Unlike hair with a more cylindrical cross-section, Afro-textured hair emerges from an elliptical follicle, creating a unique curl pattern that can range from loose waves to tight coils and zig-zags. This structural characteristic results in a distinct physical composition, where the cuticle layers, the outer protective scales of the hair shaft, are often more lifted, making the hair more prone to losing moisture. This innate dryness, a biological reality, historically dictated specific care practices within African communities, emphasizing rich emollients and protective styling.

Ancestral wisdom inherently understood these biological nuances, long before microscopes revealed cellular structures. The practices of oiling, twisting, and braiding, seen across various African cultures, were not simply aesthetic choices. They were sophisticated methods of maintaining the health of hair that, by its very design, required particular attention to moisture retention and protection from environmental stressors. The CROWN Act, in its modern legal framework, recognizes this deep-seated understanding.

It offers protection for styles like Locs, Braids, and Twists—styles that are not merely fashion statements, but direct outgrowths of this inherent hair anatomy and centuries of inherited care protocols. The law helps to ensure that no individual faces professional or educational barriers for honoring their hair’s natural form and the care traditions that have kept it vibrant for generations.

The CROWN Act’s heritage purpose is to safeguard the right to wear natural, textured hair, affirming centuries of cultural expression.

Evolution of Hair Identification and Societal Norms

The classifications applied to textured hair, both within and outside the communities it graces, also hold a powerful heritage story. Before the imposed standards of colonialism and slavery, hair acted as a visual identification card within many African societies. A style could denote a person’s age, marital status, tribal affiliation, social rank, or even their spiritual standing. This intricate system of communication was disrupted, and often violently suppressed, during the transatlantic slave trade.

Enslaved Africans’ hair was often shaved, stripping them of a fundamental aspect of their identity and connection to their heritage. As discriminatory practices took root, hair was systematically devalued, categorized as “unprofessional” or “unclean” if it did not conform to Eurocentric ideals of straightness and manageability.

The CROWN Act actively confronts this inherited legacy of devaluation. It explicitly extends protection to hair textures and styles including Afros, Bantu Knots, and Cornrows, directly challenging a historical narrative that sought to criminalize Black hair and its natural forms. This legislative action acknowledges that the very vocabulary used to describe Black hair has been weaponized, shaping societal perceptions and limiting opportunities for Black individuals. The Act’s very title, “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” underscores a societal shift towards recognizing and valuing the diverse and historical expressions of hair that have too long been marginalized.

Ritual

The journey of textured hair through time is a profound exploration of ritual—the daily gestures, the shared moments, the sacred transformations. Styling, in its deepest sense, has never been a mere cosmetic choice for people of African descent. It has always been a practice imbued with purpose, community, and ancestral memory. The CROWN Act, in its legislative reach, recognizes this profound connection, working to ensure that the living rituals of textured hair styling can continue unhindered by outdated prejudices.

From the braiding sessions under ancestral skies to the careful twists and turns of modern protective styles, the techniques employed have always been a testament to ingenuity and care. These are not arbitrary acts but rather a continuation of traditions passed down through generations, each movement of the hands carrying whispers of those who came before. The CROWN Act stands as a protective shield for these very practices, ensuring that the act of styling one’s natural hair, whether for daily wear or special occasion, remains a celebration of heritage, not a cause for concern in the classroom or workplace.

Protective Styling Ancestry

Protective styles, such as Cornrows, Box Braids, and Locs, represent one of the oldest and most enduring aspects of textured hair heritage. Their history stretches back thousands of years, with evidence of cornrows dating to 3500 BCE in the Sahara desert. These styles served multiple purposes beyond aesthetics; they were ingenious methods to guard the hair from environmental damage, retain moisture, and encourage growth, particularly in arid climates. More significantly, they were potent markers of social standing, age, marital status, and spiritual beliefs in various African communities.

In times of profound oppression, like the transatlantic slave trade, braids took on a clandestine role. Enslaved individuals would sometimes weave maps of escape routes into their cornrows, using these intricate patterns as a hidden language for freedom seekers. The CROWN Act’s explicit protection of these styles acknowledges this rich, multi-layered history, affirming their role as cultural artifacts and practical solutions, not merely as casual coiffures.

The act of creating these styles was, and often still is, a communal ritual. Women would gather, spending hours in shared space, braiding each other’s hair, exchanging stories, advice, and wisdom. This communal aspect cemented social bonds and served as a vital means of passing down cultural traditions across generations.

The CROWN Act, by safeguarding the right to wear these styles, indirectly protects these spaces of intergenerational connection and the cultural exchange they facilitate. It allows Black individuals to carry forward these practices as living traditions, rather than as relics forced underground.

Styling textured hair is a ritual, connecting individuals to ancient traditions of care and identity.

Adornment and Identity Through Time

The tools and adornments used with textured hair also tell a compelling story of heritage. From the intricately carved wooden combs found in ancient African artifacts to the contemporary tools designed to manage coils and kinks, each implement speaks to a long history of care and creativity. Ancient Egyptians, for instance, were renowned for their elaborate braided styles adorned with beads, jewels, and gold thread, symbolizing cultural identity and even warding off evil spirits. The practice of adorning hair became a visual language, a means of personal and collective expression.

Even under oppressive Tignon Laws of 18th-century New Orleans, which mandated that free Creole women of color cover their elaborate hairstyles with scarves to distinguish them from white women, these women responded with creative defiance. They transformed the mandated head coverings into ornate, colorful expressions, continuing to assert their identity and heritage through artful adornment. This historical example of resistance through styling resonates with the CROWN Act’s purpose ❉ to prevent the suppression of cultural expression through hair.

It is about recognizing that hair is a canvas, and the methods and tools used to adorn it are part of a continuous, living cultural practice. The CROWN Act helps ensure that the freedom to choose such historical and culturally significant forms of adornment is not curtailed by arbitrary rules.

• Cornrows ❉ Ancient patterns used for practical hair maintenance, status, and clandestine communication.
• Locs ❉ Symbolize spiritual connection and a natural, unbroken growth, often seen as a direct link to the divine.
• Bantu Knots ❉ A style with roots in Southern Africa, providing a method of curling and protecting hair while embodying cultural aesthetics.

Relay

The narrative of textured hair, and the CROWN Act’s place within it, is a relay race across time—a passing of knowledge, struggles, and triumphs from one generation to the next. The act’s purpose, when viewed through this lens, is not merely about legal protection. It is about ensuring the unhindered transmission of ancestral wisdom, the continuity of wellness practices, and the psychological freedom to inhabit one’s authentic self, deeply connected to a cherished heritage. This understanding requires a deeper look into the intricate interplay of social experience, scientific insight, and the enduring spirit of Black communities.

The legacy of hair discrimination is a heavy burden, a historical trauma that has been carried forward, impacting self-perception and opportunity. The CROWN Act seeks to interrupt this cycle, providing a framework for a more equitable future where the very coils and curls that define a heritage are celebrated rather than censured. It provides a contemporary mechanism for the past to inform the present, for ancient truths about care and identity to find legal affirmation in modern society.

Hair’s Enduring Societal Weight

The deep societal weight placed upon Black hair is a critical aspect of the CROWN Act’s heritage purpose. For centuries, the texture of Black hair has been weaponized as a tool of racial discrimination, perpetuating harmful stereotypes and impacting access to education and employment. Policies that might appear “race-neutral” on the surface have historically reinforced Eurocentric beauty standards, often labeling natural Black hairstyles as “unprofessional” or “unkempt”. This systematic bias has forced many Black individuals to chemically straighten their hair or adopt styles that conform to dominant norms, often at significant personal cost, both financial and psychological.

A 2019 study sponsored by Dove reported that Black women are 1.5 times more likely than other women to be sent home from work or know of a woman sent home due to her hairstyle. This statistic powerfully illuminates the tangible, pervasive impact of hair discrimination on lived experiences, directly connecting the CROWN Act’s modern legislative efforts to a deeply rooted historical problem.

The CROWN Act stands as a direct challenge to this enduring discrimination. It explicitly aims to end race-based hair discrimination in schools and workplaces by prohibiting policies that discriminate against hair texture or protective styles such as Locs, Braids, Twists, Bantu Knots, and Afros. By legally affirming the right to wear natural hair, the Act facilitates a re-connection to a heritage that was systematically undermined. It creates a space where individuals can freely express their identity without fear of professional or educational repercussions, thereby supporting mental and emotional well-being that was historically compromised by forced assimilation.

Protecting the Crown ❉ A Legal Heritage?

Can legislation truly protect a cultural heritage? The CROWN Act suggests it can, by providing a crucial legal foundation for hair freedom. The historical trajectory of hair discrimination in the United States highlights the ongoing need for such protections. The 1976 federal court case Jenkins v.

Blue Cross Mutual Hospital Insurance determined that Afros were protected by Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, but this ruling did not extend protection to other hairstyles. Subsequent cases, like the 1981 instance where a Black woman was taken to court by American Airlines for wearing braids, saw courts siding with the company, stating braids were not an immutable racial characteristic. These rulings created a legal precedent that left many natural and protective styles vulnerable.

The CROWN Act directly addresses these legal loopholes by expanding the definition of race to include “traits historically associated with race, including hair texture and protective hairstyles”. California was the first state to pass the CROWN Act in 2019, extending protection under its Fair Employment and Housing Act and Education Code. As of June 2023, twenty-three states had enacted similar legislation, with a federal bill passed by the House of Representatives multiple times but consistently blocked in the Senate.

This legislative journey itself speaks to the deeply entrenched nature of hair bias, yet the growing number of state-level laws provides a testament to the persistent advocacy of Black communities and their allies. The Act, therefore, becomes a form of legal heritage, a tool forged from historical struggle to secure future freedoms for textured hair.

Holistic Care and Ancestral Well-Being

The CROWN Act also has a profound heritage purpose in its encouragement of holistic well-being, deeply rooted in ancestral practices. For many Black communities, hair care extends beyond physical appearance, intertwining with self-care, community bonding, and spiritual connection. The rigorous expectation to conform to Eurocentric hair standards often led to the use of harsh chemical relaxers, which could damage both hair and scalp health, and also imposed significant psychological burdens. Individuals often spent considerable time and resources to alter their natural hair, sometimes leading to feelings of frustration or disconnection from their authentic selves.

The freedom provided by the CROWN Act allows individuals to reclaim ancestral methods of care that prioritize hair health and natural beauty. This might involve utilizing traditional ingredients like Shea Butter or Black Soap, long valued in West African cultures for their moisturizing and cleansing properties. It encourages nighttime rituals, such as wrapping hair in silk or satin bonnets, a practice passed down through generations to protect delicate strands from friction and moisture loss during sleep, mirroring historical care for elaborate styles. By legitimizing natural hair and protective styles, the Act supports a return to and celebration of these time-honored, often more gentle and nourishing, approaches to hair care.

It offers a pathway to a more harmonious relationship with one’s hair, fostering self-acceptance and affirming the validity of diverse beauty practices that are integral to cultural identity. This legislative action, then, is a modern echo of ancient wisdom, safeguarding the holistic well-being of individuals by affirming their hair heritage.

The CROWN Act empowers a holistic approach to textured hair, honoring ancestral wisdom in daily care.

• Shea Butter ❉ A rich emollient traditionally used across West Africa for moisturizing and protecting skin and hair.
• Coconut Oil ❉ Valued in various African and Caribbean cultures for its penetrating properties and ability to strengthen hair.
• African Black Soap ❉ A traditional cleanser, often made from plantain skins and cocoa pods, used for gentle cleansing of skin and hair.

Reflection

The journey through the CROWN Act’s heritage purpose reveals a profound truth ❉ our hair is more than mere adornment; it is a living document, a testament to enduring legacies and a marker of identity. The Act, in its quiet power, seeks to mend fissures created by centuries of judgment, allowing the rich, diverse narratives written in our coils and curls to finally find their rightful place in the open. It is a societal acknowledgment that the threads of our past are inextricably linked to our present freedoms and future possibilities.

This movement, this legislative push for equity, truly embodies the “Soul of a Strand.” It recognizes that every twist and every curl carries the weight of history, the joy of cultural celebration, and the resilience of a people. By defending the right to wear natural and protective hairstyles, the CROWN Act cultivates a world where ancestral wisdom can continue to guide modern choices, where the stories of our hair can be told without fear, and where beauty is defined by authenticity, not by oppressive, inherited standards. It is a step toward a future where the unique texture of every strand is honored, a vibrant library of heritage openly celebrated.