What historical struggles did Black hair face and how were they overcome?

Roots

There exists a quiet hum, a resonance that travels through generations, carried within each tightly coiled strand, each gentle wave, each magnificent curl. For those whose ancestry traces back to the vibrant shores of Africa, hair has never been a mere adornment. It is a living chronicle, a sacred text, a repository of stories untold, of resilience woven into its very fiber. To truly comprehend the struggles Black hair has endured and the triumphs it has known, one must first feel the ancient pulse of its origins, the primordial echoes from the source.

In pre-colonial African societies, the hair, particularly its diverse textures, was an outward expression of a person’s deepest truths. Before the transatlantic crossings, hair was a language spoken through intricate patterns and deliberate styles. It communicated Social Standing, marital status, age, tribal affiliation, spiritual beliefs, and even one’s wealth. An elder’s meticulously coiffed locs or a young maiden’s adorned braids were living symbols, legible to all within their community.

(Oforiwa, 2023) Hair care rituals were communal activities, fostering bonds, passing down oral histories, and nurturing the collective spirit. It was a time of holistic understanding, where hair was inextricably linked to one’s well-being and connection to the divine. The Yoruba people, for instance, held hair as the most elevated part of the body, a conduit for spiritual energy and messages to the gods. (Oforiwa, 2023) This deep respect for natural texture and its profound cultural significance was the foundation upon which centuries of struggle would attempt to build a contrasting narrative.

Then came the unimaginable, the brutal rupture of the transatlantic slave trade. One of the first, most dehumanizing acts inflicted upon enslaved Africans was the forced shaving of their heads upon arrival in the Americas. This act was not simply about hygiene; it was a violent erasure, a calculated attempt to strip individuals of their identity, their heritage, and their connection to homeland.

(BLAM UK CIC, 2022) The elaborate hairstyles that once spoke volumes of a person’s lineage and community were forcibly replaced by naked scalps, designed to instill a sense of anonymity and diminish self-worth. This historical affront laid the groundwork for centuries of systemic oppression against textured hair, aiming to sever the ties between a people and their ancestral crowns.

The forced shaving of enslaved Africans’ heads marked a profound act of cultural erasure, stripping them of visible heritage and personal identity.

The Anatomy of Heritage

To appreciate the journey of textured hair, one must grasp its unique biological architecture. Unlike straight or wavy hair, Black hair often presents with a distinctly flattened elliptical shape at the follicle, leading to its characteristic coils and kinks. These coils, while beautiful and robust, make the hair inherently drier and more prone to breakage if not cared for with understanding and reverence.

The natural curl pattern creates points of weakness along the strand, as the hair cuticle lifts at the curves. This fundamental biological difference, rooted in ancestral adaptations to diverse climates, became weaponized during periods of oppression.

The term “nappy,” originally used to describe the texture of Black hair, became a derogatory label, signaling a deliberate denigration of a natural characteristic. This linguistic assault on hair texture served to reinforce a Eurocentric standard of beauty that privileged straight, smooth hair. The struggle began at the very root of existence, with the inherent qualities of Black hair being deemed undesirable or “bad” hair. This external judgment, enforced through societal pressures and discriminatory practices, compelled many to seek ways to alter their natural texture, often at great personal cost.

Early Resistance Through Hair

Despite the immense suffering and systematic attempts to erase their heritage, enslaved Africans demonstrated extraordinary ingenuity and defiance. Their hair, though often concealed or simplified, became a hidden canvas, a clandestine tool of survival and communication. In a profound act of resistance, some enslaved African women, particularly rice farmers from West Africa, braided rice seeds into their hair before being transported, a silent act of preservation for themselves and the cultural sustenance of their homeland. (BLAM UK CIC, 2022) Cornrows, a styling technique dating back thousands of years in Africa, particularly in West Africa, became more than just a hairstyle.

They transformed into coded maps, secret messages guiding escapes to freedom, literally weaving paths to liberation within their very strands. (BLAM UK CIC, 2022, ArcGIS StoryMaps, 2022) This hidden language of hair speaks volumes about the indomitable spirit of those who fought to retain their dignity and ancestral memory.

• Cornrows ❉ Ancient West African braiding patterns, later used by enslaved people to hide seeds or create escape maps.
• Braids ❉ A widespread ancient African styling art, symbolizing status, age, and identity.
• Headwraps ❉ Initially worn for spiritual or social meaning, later mandated by laws like the Tignon Laws, but repurposed by Black women for adornment and resistance.

Ritual

The journey of Black hair, from its celebrated place in pre-colonial African societies to its politicized existence in the diaspora, reveals a profound story of adaptability and profound self-determination. The initial struggles to maintain ancestral practices under the yoke of chattel enslavement gave way to new rituals, often born of necessity and defiance. These rituals, whether secret acts of care or public declarations of identity, shaped the very fabric of Black hair heritage.

Following emancipation, the struggle for acceptance continued, albeit in different forms. The pervasive nature of Eurocentric beauty standards created immense pressure for Black individuals to conform. Straight hair was increasingly seen as a requirement for social and economic mobility. This era saw the popularization of tools and techniques aimed at altering natural hair texture.

The hot comb, initially developed in the late 19th century, offered a temporary straightening solution. Later, chemical relaxers, such as those popularized by George E. Johnson’s Ultra Sheen in 1957, provided a more lasting alteration. (Health Matters – NewYork-Presbyterian, 2024; Health, 2024) These products, often containing harsh chemicals like sodium hydroxide, promised assimilation, yet they frequently came with severe health repercussions, including scalp burns and hair damage. (Health, 2024; Health Matters – NewYork-Presbyterian, 2024)

The internal conflict stemming from societal pressure, often termed Texturism, created a hierarchy within the community, where lighter skin and straighter hair were often granted preferential treatment. (Dermatologist, 2023) This difficult reality underscored the deep historical struggles, where self-acceptance became intertwined with the very texture of one’s hair. Many Black women reported feeling compelled to change their hair for job interviews or to “fit in” at work, spending considerable time and resources to hide their natural characteristics. (Legal Defense Fund, 2023; PMC, 2023)

The Civil Rights Movement catalyzed a reawakening of Black pride, transforming the Afro into a potent symbol of liberation.

When Did Hair Become a Symbol of Protest?

A dramatic turning point arrived with the Civil Rights Movement in the 1960s. As the “Black Is Beautiful” movement gained momentum, it brought with it a powerful rejection of Eurocentric beauty ideals and a profound call for self-acceptance. (JSTOR Daily, 2019; Essence, 2020) The Afro hairstyle, a voluminous crown of natural coils, ceased to be just a style; it became a declaration of identity, a symbol of Black power and defiance against white American beauty standards.

(JSTOR Daily, 2019; Essence, 2020; Library of Congress, 2021) Activists like Angela Davis sported their Afros as a political statement, inspiring countless others to embrace their natural textures. (JSTOR Daily, 2019; Refinery29, 2021) This period witnessed a collective embrace of ancestral heritage, with natural hair becoming a visible manifestation of racial pride and solidarity.

This re-connection with natural hair also saw a resurgence in traditional protective styling techniques. Braids, twists, and locs, styles with deep roots in African heritage, found renewed popularity. These practices not only offered healthy ways to maintain textured hair but also served as a visible connection to ancestral traditions, continuing the legacy of resistance and cultural preservation that began centuries ago. The act of wearing one’s natural hair, previously stigmatized, became an act of empowerment, a reclamation of self and heritage in the face of ongoing societal pressures.

Relay

The enduring narrative of Black hair has always been a testament to resilience, a relay race of spirit passed from one generation to the next. The overt struggles of past centuries have morphed into more subtle, yet persistent, forms of discrimination, particularly within professional and educational settings. The fight for the right to wear one’s hair naturally, without professional or social penalty, continues to shape the contours of Black hair heritage in the contemporary world.

Despite the powerful cultural shifts of the Civil Rights era, the biases against natural Black hairstyles persisted. Cases of workplace discrimination against Afros began to surface in the 1970s, with a landmark ruling in 1976, Jenkins v. Blue Cross Mutual Hospital Insurance, upholding a race discrimination lawsuit for bias against Afros under Title VII of the Civil Rights Act. (JSTOR Daily, 2019; Wikipedia, 2022) However, this legal victory did not eliminate the underlying societal pressure.

Tracey Owens Patton, a communications scholar, notes that the progressive changes of the Black Power movement eroded as assimilation became more dominant through the late 1970s and 1980s, leading many Black women back to straightened styles. (JSTOR Daily, 2019)

The second wave of the natural hair movement emerged in the 2000s, catalyzed by films and the rise of social media, leading a renewed embrace of natural textures. (JSTOR Daily, 2019) Yet, discrimination remained. A 2019 study by Dove discovered that Black women are 1.5 Times More Likely to Be Sent Home from the Workplace because of their hair. (Legal Defense Fund, 2023) The study also revealed that 80% of Black women reported feeling the need to alter their hairstyles to align with more conservative, often Eurocentric, standards to fit into professional environments.

(Legal Defense Fund, 2023) Furthermore, a 2020 study by Michigan State University and Duke University, “The Natural Hair Bias in Job Recruitment,” indicated that Black women with natural hairstyles are less likely to obtain job interviews than white women or Black women with straightened hair, with natural styles often perceived as less professional. (Legal Defense Fund, 2023) This systemic bias highlights the pervasive nature of hair discrimination as a manifestation of institutional racism. (Legal Defense Fund, 2023)

Modern hair discrimination underscores the enduring struggle for acceptance of natural Black hair in professional settings.

Legislating Acceptance

In response to these ongoing struggles, the fight for legal protection gained significant momentum. The CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair) emerged as a legislative movement, aiming to prohibit discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles associated with race. California passed the first CROWN Act in 2019, and as of June 2023, twenty-four states have passed similar legislation. (Legal Defense Fund, 2023; EPI, 2023; Wikipedia, 2022) This legislation is a significant step towards dismantling policies rooted in white standards of appearance that perpetuate racist stereotypes about Black hairstyles.

The CROWN Act directly addresses the loophole in existing civil rights laws that often did not explicitly protect against discrimination based on phenotypical markers like hair texture. (EPI, 2023)

The journey towards overcoming these struggles extends beyond legal frameworks. It encompasses a deep re-evaluation of ancestral practices, recognizing their scientific validity and holistic benefits. For instance, protective styles like braids and twists, long dismissed in many mainstream contexts, are now widely acknowledged for their role in preserving length and minimizing damage to textured hair. This understanding bridges ancient wisdom with modern trichology, reinforcing the profound connection between heritage and hair wellness.

The societal pressure to alter natural hair has also led to health disparities. Chemical relaxers, while offering straightened styles, contain harmful chemicals, including formaldehyde and phthalates, that are linked to increased risks of early puberty, uterine fibroids, and various cancers, including uterine and breast cancer. (Health Matters – NewYork-Presbyterian, 2024; Health, 2024; PubMed Central, 2023) A study from Boston University suggests that Black women who have used relaxers more than twice a year or for more than five years have a 50% Increased Risk of Uterine Cancer. (Health Matters – NewYork-Presbyterian, 2024) These health risks highlight the heavy toll of conforming to external beauty standards and underscore the importance of celebrating and maintaining natural hair for holistic well-being.

Reclaiming the Narrative

Cultural appropriation represents another layer in the complex relationship Black hair has with societal perception. When non-Black individuals adopt hairstyles with deep historical and cultural significance, it often occurs without proper acknowledgment or understanding of the origins and struggles associated with them. (ArcGIS StoryMaps, 2022; Anti-Racism Daily, 2022; ODYSSEY Media Group, 2025) This double standard, where Black individuals face punishment for natural styles while others are praised for similar looks, diminishes the profound meaning of Black hair within its heritage.

The reclamation of textured hair involves not only the freedom to wear one’s hair as it naturally grows but also the assertion of ownership over the cultural narratives associated with those styles. It means ensuring that the profound stories, the historical struggles, and the ancestral wisdom woven into each style are honored and respected, not merely trend-driven.

1. Ancestral Care Rituals ❉ Ancient African hair practices involved natural ingredients like oils, herbs, and clay, often used in communal grooming sessions, strengthening social bonds. (Oforiwa, 2023)
2. Modern Natural Hair Care ❉ Contemporary products for textured hair increasingly focus on moisture retention and scalp health, reflecting an alignment with ancestral wisdom, albeit with modern scientific understanding.
3. Protective Styling as Resistance ❉ Styles like cornrows and locs, originally functional or symbolic in Africa, became acts of covert communication and self-preservation during slavery, and later, overt statements of Black pride.

Reflection

As we trace the rich lineage of textured hair, from the communal rituals of ancient Africa to the legislative victories of the present day, we discern more than a history of struggle. We perceive a symphony of survival, a testament to the enduring human spirit. Each strand, each coil, holds echoes of ancestors who braided rice seeds for a chance at tomorrow, who wore headwraps as an act of defiance, who shaped Afros into symbols of unbreakable pride.

The journey of Black hair reflects a profound meditation on heritage, a living, breathing archive of identity, resistance, and joy. It is a story still unfolding, continually shaped by those who wear their crowns with purpose, knowing that in the delicate dance of their coils lies the unbroken thread of a magnificent legacy.