Roots
There is a quiet, deep murmur that resonates from the very beginnings of our ancestral lines, a whisper carried on the wind through centuries. It speaks of touch, of careful hands, and of golden, earthy elixirs. For those whose hair defies a single plane, whose strands coil and spring with a life uniquely their own, the act of oiling is more than a superficial application.
It is a dialogue with heritage, an echo of practices that predate written records, holding within their rhythms the wisdom of generations. This journey into oiling’s historical practices reveals not just methods of care, but profound expressions of identity, connection, and resilience.
The Architecture of Textured Hair
To truly comprehend the historical significance of oiling, one must first grasp the biological blueprint of textured hair itself. Unlike its straighter counterparts, textured hair—from the gentle wave to the tightest coil—possesses a distinctive elliptical or flattened follicle shape. This shape dictates the way the hair shaft emerges and twists, creating natural bends and curves along its length. These structural variations, while lending themselves to magnificent volume and sculptural forms, also present inherent challenges.
The very coils that give textured hair its splendor also impede the natural flow of sebum, the scalp’s intrinsic moisturizing oil, down the hair shaft. This makes each strand more susceptible to dryness and breakage, a fundamental biological reality that ancient communities understood intuitively.
Our ancestors, observing the nuances of their hair’s propensity for dryness and its response to different elements, developed sophisticated routines long before the advent of modern science. These traditions were not random; they were meticulous responses to the inherent biology of their hair, coupled with a profound understanding of their environments and the botanical wealth surrounding them. The practices they cultivated were, in essence, the earliest forms of hair science, born of necessity and passed down as valuable knowledge. In pre-colonial African societies, for example, the intricate hair styling process, which often took hours or days, always included washing, combing, and oiling the hair before braiding or twisting it.
The wisdom of ancient communities concerning textured hair care sprung from keen observation, adapting natural resources to suit the unique characteristics of each coil and curve.
Ancient Echoes of Hair Nourishment
Across continents and through the annals of time, evidence surfaces that speaks to the centrality of oiling. In the lush plains of West Africa, generations safeguarded the wisdom of the oil palm tree, using its kernels to extract what is now known as Batana oil. This liquid gold, deeply steeped in lauric acid and vitamins, was traditionally applied to hair and scalp, recognized for its remarkable ability to stimulate growth and fortify strands against the harsh sun and dry winds. This knowledge, preserved through oral tradition and lived practice, points to an understanding of botanicals that rivals contemporary scientific formulations.
Further east, the ancient Egyptians, known for their elaborate beauty rituals, relied upon castor oil and almond oil to keep their hair moisturized and lustrous. Excavated combs, often crafted from fish bones, suggest these oils were applied with precision, aiding in even distribution. Their approach to hair was holistic, viewing it as a mirror of health, societal standing, and beauty. The emphasis extended beyond mere aesthetics; it was a matter of practical self-preservation against the arid climate, protecting both hair and scalp.
In various Indigenous American communities, hair care was equally tied to the gifts of the land. Before the Columbian Exchange, tribes across North America utilized animal oils like bear grease, prized for its versatility and cultural meaning, to add shine and condition. These practices underscore a universal recognition of oil’s role in maintaining hair health, adapting local resources to address environmental challenges and cultural beauty ideals.
Ritual
The application of oils to textured hair evolved beyond simple maintenance; it became a ritual, a tender thread connecting individuals to community, ancestry, and even spiritual realms. These practices were not isolated acts but woven into the social fabric, serving as moments of intimate bonding, cultural affirmation, and quiet resistance. The very texture of Black and mixed-race hair, with its unique needs, demanded a deliberate, consistent approach to care, elevating oiling from a chore to a cherished tradition.
Oiling as a Sacred Communal Practice?
In many pre-colonial African societies, the elaborate care of hair, including generous oiling, was a communal affair. It was a time for conversation, for sharing stories and wisdom, and for reinforcing familial and societal bonds. Women would gather, often under the shade of a large tree, to spend hours washing, oiling, braiding, and adorning one another’s hair. This communal grooming, steeped in patience and shared presence, transformed a practical necessity into a social rite.
It was a physical expression of care, passed from elder to youth, shaping identity and belonging from an early age. The Yoruba people, for example, considered hair the most elevated part of the body, and its careful oiling and braiding were sometimes believed to send messages to the gods.
This enduring tradition of collective care persisted even through the horrific crucible of the transatlantic slave trade. Stripped of their tools and familiar oils, enslaved Africans resourcefuly adapted, finding alternatives from their new environments. Animal fats like lard, bacon grease, and butter became substitutes for traditional African oils such as shea butter and palm oil. These improvised methods, far from being signs of neglect, were acts of defiance and continuity.
The clandestine oiling and styling of hair became a quiet, yet powerful, means of preserving cultural identity and human dignity in the face of dehumanization. These moments of hair care, often hidden, served as a balm for the spirit, allowing a fragmented sense of self to cling to ancestral ways.
Through generations, the simple act of oiling textured hair has transcended mere grooming, becoming a profound, often communal, ritual of heritage and resilience.
Styling and Protection ❉ A Symbiotic Relationship with Oils
The intrinsic link between oiling and styling textured hair is undeniable. Many traditional hairstyles—from intricate cornrows to robust braids and twists—relied on oils and butters not only for nourishment but also to aid in their creation and longevity. These substances provided slip, reducing friction during the braiding process, minimizing breakage, and offering a protective barrier against environmental stressors. In West African traditions, for instance, oils and butters were consistently paired with protective styles to maintain both length and overall health.
Consider the practice of scalp greasing, deeply rooted in African American experiences. This ritual involved carefully parting the hair, inch by inch, and applying an oil-based pomade or butter directly to the scalp. This was more than just preventing dryness; it was a foundational step for protective styles, creating a healthy scalp environment to support growth and reduce flaking.
The rhythmic application, often performed by a mother or grandmother, instilled a sense of routine and therapeutic connection. This method of applying oil from root to tip, along with scalp massage, rehydrates and nourishes strands for strength and softness.
| Historical Period or Culture Pre-colonial Africa |
| Common Oils/Butters Used Shea butter, Palm oil, Camellia Kissi oil, Marula oil |
| Primary Role in Hair Care Nourishment, protection from elements, facilitating elaborate styles, spiritual connection |
| Historical Period or Culture Ancient Egypt |
| Common Oils/Butters Used Castor oil, Almond oil, Olive oil, Sesame oil, Pomegranate oil |
| Primary Role in Hair Care Moisture, shine, strengthening, scalp health, aesthetic enhancement |
| Historical Period or Culture Enslavement/Post-Emancipation Diaspora |
| Common Oils/Butters Used Lard, Bacon grease, Butter, Coconut oil, Bear grease, Jojoba oil |
| Primary Role in Hair Care Survival, moisture retention under harsh conditions, cultural continuity, detangling |
| Historical Period or Culture Indigenous Americas (Pre-Columbian) |
| Common Oils/Butters Used Bear grease, Raccoon fat, Fish oil (e.g. Oolichan), Deer marrow |
| Primary Role in Hair Care Grooming, protection, cultural symbolism, lubricant for practical uses |
| Historical Period or Culture Oiling practices reveal remarkable adaptation and continuity across diverse historical and cultural landscapes. |
Relay
The historical practices of oiling textured hair, so deeply ingrained in ancestral wisdom, resonate through contemporary scientific understanding. This legacy, passed across generations, serves as a testament to the intuitive brilliance of forebears, whose methods often find validation in modern dermatological and trichological research. The sustained dialogue between heritage and current discovery provides a richer appreciation for oiling’s enduring role in hair identity, particularly within Black and mixed-race communities.
How Does Modern Science Affirm Ancient Oiling Methods?
For centuries, the efficacy of various natural oils in promoting hair health was understood through observation and tradition. Today, scientific inquiry provides molecular explanations for these longstanding practices. Take, for instance, coconut oil , a staple in many traditional hair care routines, particularly in South Asia and parts of Africa.
Research now confirms its unique ability to penetrate the hair shaft, reducing protein loss and fortifying strands from within. This characteristic is particularly beneficial for textured hair, which is prone to protein loss due to its structural vulnerability to breakage.
Similarly, castor oil , historically used in ancient Egypt and by indigenous cultures, has been examined for its purported hair growth benefits. While direct causal links require further expansive study, some research suggests it may play a role in promoting hair growth by stimulating certain prostaglandins. This scientific lens does not diminish the traditional reverence for these ingredients; it rather deepens our appreciation for the empirical knowledge gathered over millennia through trial and sustained application within specific cultural contexts.
The continuous oiling of the scalp, a practice widespread in historical Black hair care, also finds contemporary validation. A healthy scalp is the foundation for healthy hair growth, and certain oils possess anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties that support scalp health, reducing irritation and flaking. This suggests that the age-old ritual of massaging oils into the scalp was not just about superficial conditioning, but about creating a fertile ground for the hair to thrive—a concept echoed in current holistic wellness philosophies.
- Coconut Oil ❉ Known for its ability to penetrate the hair shaft, minimizing protein loss and strengthening internal hair structure.
- Shea Butter ❉ A rich emollient, widely used in West Africa, offering exceptional moisturizing and protective qualities for coarse hair.
- Castor Oil ❉ Historically utilized for its conditioning and thickening effects, with some contemporary studies linking it to hair growth stimulation.
- Jojoba Oil ❉ Mimics the scalp’s natural sebum, making it a highly compatible moisturizer for textured hair without heavy residue.
Oiling as a Statement of Identity and Self-Care in the Present?
The historical journey of oiling textured hair carries profound implications for contemporary identity, particularly within the Black and mixed-race diaspora. During periods of enslavement and assimilation, when African hair was often deemed “unruly” or “bad” by Eurocentric beauty standards, the act of oiling and caring for natural hair became a quiet, powerful assertion of self and heritage. It was a rejection of imposed narratives and an affirmation of intrinsic beauty. The “Black is Beautiful” movement of the 1960s and 70s, which saw a resurgence in natural hairstyles like the afro, inherently brought renewed visibility to traditional care practices, including oiling, as part of reclaiming ancestral roots.
Even today, amidst evolving beauty trends and an expanding market of hair products, oiling remains a bedrock practice for many. It transcends mere product application, serving as a conscious connection to a lineage of resilience and self-preservation. For many, the very act of massaging oils into their coils is a moment of ancestral remembrance, a continuation of rituals performed by mothers, grandmothers, and countless forebears who understood the sacredness of their hair despite societal pressures.
It is a quiet rebellion against historical marginalization, a statement that this hair, in its natural, oiled state, is beautiful, worthy of care, and a direct link to a powerful past. The decision to use natural, traditional oils, passed down through families, often represents a deeper commitment to heritage and holistic well-being, moving beyond commercial solutions to embrace ancestral wisdom.
The contemporary natural hair movement, which encourages embracing diverse textures, has further amplified the role of oils as essential components of hair care regimens. It acknowledges that textured hair requires specific attention to moisture retention, a need that traditional oils effectively address. This sustained practice speaks volumes about cultural memory, about the endurance of wisdom, and about how historical practices continue to shape a living, breathing identity, one strand at a time. The CROWN Act, legislation prohibiting discrimination based on hair texture or style, represents a modern validation of this enduring cultural significance.
Oiling textured hair today is often a conscious continuation of ancestral practices, grounding identity in a rich heritage of self-care and defiance.
Reflection
As we contemplate the journey of oiling’s role in textured hair identity, we are invited to see more than simply a historical progression of beauty practices. We encounter a living archive, a narrative of survival, adaptation, and profound reverence for self and lineage. Each drop of oil, each gentle application, carries the weight of memory, connecting the present moment to a continuous stream of ancestral wisdom. This shared heritage, often expressed through the tender care of hair, speaks to an enduring spirit—a Soul of a Strand that cannot be severed from its roots.
The story of oiling textured hair is a testament to ingenious adaptation, transforming what was available—whether shea butter in ancient Africa or animal fats during enslavement—into tools of preservation and identity. It is a poignant reminder that true care transcends fleeting trends, finding its power in deep listening to the body’s needs and the echoes of those who came before. In choosing to honor these historical practices, we not only nurture our hair but also nourish a vibrant, unbroken cultural legacy, ensuring that the radiant strength of textured hair, imbued with the wisdom of the ages, continues to shine forth.
References
- Byrd, Ayana D. and Lori L. Tharps. (2014). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Griffin.
- Johnson, Shirley, and Adrienne Bankhead. (2014). “Hair as an Expression of Black Women’s Identity and the Politics of Hair.” The Western Journal of Black Studies, 38(2).
- Mercer, Kobena. (1994). Welcome to the Jungle ❉ New Positions in Black Cultural Studies. Routledge.
- Patton, Tracey Owens. (2006). “African-American Hair as Expression of Identity.” The Black Scholar, 36(4).
- Rooks, Noliwe M. (1996). Hair Raising ❉ Beauty, Culture, and African American Women. Rutgers University Press.
- Thompson, Cheryl. (2009). “Black Women and Identity ❉ What’s Hair Got to Do With It?” Feminist Media Studies, 9(1).
- Wolfram, Leslie J. (2003). “Hair Cosmetics ❉ An Overview.” Journal of Cosmetic Science, 54(6).