What historical hair oils still benefit textured hair today?

Roots

The very strands that crown our heads hold whispers of ancestors, echoes of sun-drenched lands, and the resilience of generations. For those with textured hair, this connection runs deeper than mere appearance; it is a living archive, a testament to enduring wisdom. Across continents and through centuries, before the advent of modern laboratories, communities understood the profound needs of their hair.

They turned to the earth’s bounty, extracting liquid gold and rich butters from seeds, fruits, and nuts. These offerings from nature became more than just emollients; they were conduits of care, protection, and cultural continuity.

Our hair, with its unique helical architecture, possesses a natural inclination towards dryness. The tightly coiled patterns, characteristic of many Black and mixed-race hair types, mean that natural scalp oils, known as sebum, travel with greater difficulty down the hair shaft. This structural reality, combined with environmental factors, historically presented a consistent need for external moisture and barrier protection. Ancestral practices recognized this intrinsic quality, developing systems of care that honored the hair’s delicate nature and supported its strength against daily elements.

Ancestral hair oils, drawn from the earth’s abundance, served as fundamental allies for textured hair, addressing its inherent need for moisture and protection across diverse cultures.

What Did Ancient Hair Oils Provide?

From the heart of West Africa, the Shea Butter tree, Vitellaria paradoxa, offered its creamy yield. This butter, known as Karité, became a staple for protecting skin and hair from the harsh sun, drying winds, and arid climates. Its historical extraction, often a communal activity among women, involved drying, grinding, and boiling the nuts to release the unctuous substance (Diop, 1996).

Beyond simple conditioning, shea butter served as a protective balm, a hair dressing to hold styles, and even a mild relaxer for curls, as recorded in historical texts (Falconi, 1998). Its presence in ancient Egyptian beauty practices, with reports of Cleopatra herself valuing it for its protective qualities during desert travels, speaks to its widespread recognition across North Africa and beyond (SEAMS Beauty, 2018).

Across the tropical coastlines of South Asia, the Pacific, and parts of Africa, the versatile Coconut Oil reigned supreme. Extracted from the mature coconut fruit, this oil holds a cherished place in Ayurvedic traditions, where it is known as a potent agent for hair growth, strength, and scalp health (Cécred, 2025). Its low molecular weight and high content of lauric acid allow it to penetrate the hair shaft, reducing protein loss for both undamaged and damaged hair (AfroHairCandy, 2023).

For generations, families engaged in the communal ritual of applying warm coconut oil, a practice that nourished the scalp and strengthened strands, passing down not just a technique but a shared moment of care (Stylist, 2024). In the Caribbean, the arrival of the coconut, likely via European colonizers who used it as sustenance, saw its rapid adoption into local beauty and culinary practices, solidifying its standing as a core element of diasporic hair care (Guyanese Girl Haitian Soul, 2017).

Another oil with a compelling historical journey is Castor Oil. Its origins trace back over 4,000 years to Africa, with evidence of its use in ancient Egypt for cosmetic, medicinal, and even lamp oil purposes (Qhemet Biologics, 2024). The Ebers Papyrus, an ancient Egyptian medical text, lists castor oil in various remedies (Qhemet Biologics, 2024).

Its enduring presence in hair care traditions, particularly in the African diaspora, is a testament to its perceived efficacy for growth and strength. The process of making Jamaican Black Castor Oil, which involves roasting the beans before pressing, is said to enhance its potency, a technique carried by enslaved Africans to the Caribbean (PushBlack, 2023).

How Did Textured Hair Anatomy Influence Early Care?

The unique helical shape of textured hair strands, from loose waves to tight coils, means that the cuticle, the outermost protective layer, tends to lift more readily. This characteristic, while contributing to the hair’s volume and beauty, also renders it more susceptible to moisture loss and external damage. Ancient caretakers understood this vulnerability intuitively.

They recognized that heavier, more viscous oils and butters, like shea butter and castor oil, could provide a substantial coating, effectively sealing the cuticle and retaining precious hydration. Lighter oils, such as coconut, with their smaller molecular structure, were valued for their ability to penetrate the hair shaft, providing nourishment from within, a biological insight understood through generations of observation and practice (AfroHairCandy, 2023).

The resilience of textured hair, despite its inherent dryness and fragility at certain points along the curl, has always been supported by practices that prioritize moisture and protection. The selection of oils was not random; it was informed by a deep, generational understanding of how different plant extracts interacted with the hair’s specific needs, long before the terms “porosity” or “hygral fatigue” entered scientific discourse. This ancestral knowledge, passed through oral traditions and communal rituals, laid the groundwork for contemporary textured hair care.

Ritual

To stand before the mirror, oil in hand, is to participate in a continuum of care that spans millennia. It is to acknowledge the quiet wisdom of grandmothers, aunts, and community elders whose hands, guided by ancestral knowledge, once smoothed, massaged, and adorned hair with these same precious emollients. This section steps into that shared space, exploring the applied dimensions of historical hair oils—the techniques, the communal spirit, and the enduring practices that shaped their use within textured hair heritage.

Hair oiling was seldom a solitary act. In many African cultures, hair care was a deeply communal activity, a time for bonding, storytelling, and the transmission of knowledge from one generation to the next (Omez Beauty Products, 2024). Mothers taught daughters, and friends gathered, transforming a practical necessity into a cherished social ritual.

The act of applying oil, often accompanied by gentle detangling and styling, became a tangible expression of love and connection, reinforcing social ties within families and communities (Cécred, 2025). This collective approach to hair care underscores its profound cultural significance, beyond mere aesthetics.

What Did Hair Oiling Mean for Community?

The preparation of these oils often involved communal efforts, too. In West Africa, the harvesting and processing of Shea Nuts for butter production have historically been, and largely remain, a domain of women. This work provides economic sustenance and reinforces social structures (Obscure Histories, 2024).

The butter’s application to hair and skin was a daily act of self-preservation against harsh climates, but also a beautification ritual deeply tied to identity. Similarly, the communal gathering and processing of coconuts in tropical regions yielded not only oil for hair but also sustenance and materials for shelter, making the coconut tree a veritable “tree of life” whose bounty supported entire ways of living (Guyanese Girl Haitian Soul, 2017).

Hair oiling rituals served as communal anchors, transmitting ancestral wisdom and strengthening bonds through shared acts of care across generations.

The use of specific oils often reflected the local flora and environmental needs. In regions with intense sun and dry air, heavier butters and oils provided a protective shield. In more humid environments, lighter oils might have been preferred for daily conditioning.

The ingenuity lay in observing nature, understanding the properties of local plants, and adapting their use to suit the unique characteristics of textured hair. This deep ecological connection forms a core part of the heritage of these hair care practices.

How Were Oils Applied in Traditional Settings?

Traditional oiling practices involved more than just coating the hair. They often included systematic scalp massages, believed to stimulate blood circulation and promote healthy growth (Cécred, 2025). The hands, warm with the oil, would work it through sections of hair, paying particular attention to the ends, which are most prone to dryness and breakage. This deliberate, mindful application was a stark contrast to hurried modern routines, embodying a philosophy of slow, intentional care.

Specific oils found their way into distinct practices:

• Shea Butter ❉ Often warmed gently, then smoothed onto cleansed hair and scalp to seal in moisture and provide a soft hold for protective styles like braids and twists. Its semi-solid consistency made it ideal for shaping and protecting delicate strands.
• Coconut Oil ❉ Applied as a pre-wash treatment, massaged into the scalp and length before cleansing, to reduce protein loss during washing (AfroHairCandy, 2023). It was also used as a daily sealant or a light styling aid.
• Castor Oil ❉ Particularly valued for scalp health and promoting perceived hair thickness. Its viscosity meant it was often used sparingly, massaged directly onto the scalp or mixed with other lighter oils. The dark, roasted variety, Jamaican Black Castor Oil, holds a special place in Afro-Caribbean traditions for its purported strengthening properties.
• Olive Oil ❉ A common ingredient in Mediterranean and North African hair care, it was used for its conditioning properties, often applied as a pre-shampoo treatment or a light finishing oil for shine.

These practices were not static; they adapted to new environments and circumstances. During the transatlantic slave trade, enslaved Africans, stripped of many cultural markers and traditional tools, adapted their hair care using available resources, sometimes resorting to cooking oils or animal fats (colleen, 2020). Yet, the underlying principles of moisturizing, protecting, and styling remained, demonstrating remarkable resilience and ingenuity in preserving aspects of their heritage (PushBlack, 2023).

Relay

How do the ancient whispers of care translate into tangible benefits for textured hair today? The answer lies at the intersection of ancestral wisdom and contemporary scientific understanding. The journey of historical hair oils, from elemental biology to living traditions, culminates in their enduring relevance, a profound connection that speaks to the resilience of heritage itself. We look to the composition of these plant extracts, seeking the molecular explanations for the generations of visible results.

The continuity of hair care practices, particularly among people of African descent, stands as a powerful testament to the persistence of cultural memory. Despite the brutal disruption of the transatlantic slave trade, enslaved Africans carried with them invaluable knowledge of plants and their medicinal and cosmetic uses (PushBlack, 2023). This intellectual heritage, often adapted to new environments and available resources, ensured the survival of practices vital for maintaining health and cultural identity under oppressive conditions (colleen, 2020). The enduring presence of certain historical oils within Black and mixed-race communities is not simply a matter of preference; it represents a deep, unbroken lineage of care.

Does Castor Oil Still Benefit Textured Hair?

Consider the remarkable story of Castor Oil, specifically its Jamaican Black Castor Oil (JBCO) variant. Originating in Africa over 4,000 years ago, where it was used for diverse purposes including hair and skin care, the castor bean plant, Ricinus communis, was introduced to the Caribbean through the slave trade (PushBlack, 2023). Enslaved Africans, lacking formal medical care and access to traditional African ingredients, adapted by cultivating and processing castor beans in their new lands.

The distinct method of roasting the beans before pressing them, which gives JBCO its characteristic dark color, became a hallmark of Afro-Caribbean traditional remedies (PushBlack, 2023). This oil became a symbol of self-reliance and ancestral wisdom, used not only for hair growth and strength but also for various medicinal ailments (PushBlack, 2023).

The enduring prevalence of Jamaican Black Castor Oil in the Caribbean and among the diaspora speaks volumes. It is estimated that a significant portion of households in Jamaica, for example, continue to use JBCO for hair and scalp care, a practice passed down through oral tradition and family ritual (PushBlack, 2023). This continuity, against a backdrop of systemic efforts to strip away cultural identity, underscores the profound importance of hair care as a site of resistance and cultural preservation (Omez Beauty Products, 2024). The oil’s rich content of Ricinoleic Acid, a unique fatty acid, is thought to be responsible for its purported benefits, including anti-inflammatory properties and the ability to increase blood flow to the scalp, thereby supporting hair growth and thickening (Qhemet Biologics, 2024).

The enduring use of oils like Jamaican Black Castor Oil stands as a powerful testament to ancestral knowledge and cultural resilience within the African diaspora.

How Do Historical Oils Interact with Hair Structure?

The scientific community increasingly validates the efficacy of these time-honored oils. Textured hair, characterized by its elliptical shaft and numerous bends, is prone to dryness and breakage due to the challenges sebum faces in coating the entire strand and the raised cuticle layers. Historical oils, with their diverse molecular structures, address these specific needs:

• Coconut Oil ❉ Its unique molecular structure, rich in lauric acid, allows it to penetrate the hair shaft, reducing protein loss during washing and conditioning. This deep penetration helps fortify the hair’s core, lessening damage from hygral fatigue, the stress caused by repeated swelling and contraction of the hair fiber with water (AfroHairCandy, 2023).
• Shea Butter ❉ Composed of fatty acids like oleic and stearic acids, alongside unsaponifiable compounds, shea butter creates a protective barrier on the hair surface. This external layer seals in moisture, reduces frizz, and provides a pliable hold, making it ideal for styling and protecting fragile ends (sheabutter.net, 2024).
• Castor Oil ❉ The ricinoleic acid in castor oil, along with its high viscosity, contributes to its ability to coat the hair shaft, providing lubrication and reducing friction. Its reported ability to stimulate circulation to the scalp may support follicle health, contributing to its reputation for promoting hair growth and thickness (Qhemet Biologics, 2024).

Beyond these foundational oils, other plant extracts from ancient traditions continue to offer valuable benefits:

• Amla Oil ❉ Derived from the Indian gooseberry, this oil is a powerhouse of Vitamin C and antioxidants. It strengthens hair follicles, helps prevent premature graying, and enhances overall hair texture and shine, aligning with Ayurvedic principles of hair vitality (The Rani Glow, 2024).
• Bhringraj Oil ❉ Sourced from the Bhringraj plant, it is a key ingredient in many traditional Indian hair oils. It is known for its rejuvenating properties, aiding in strengthening hair roots, preventing hair fall, and maintaining natural hair color (International Journal of Applied Pharmaceutics, 2011).
• Moringa Oil ❉ From the “miracle tree,” this oil is lightweight and rich in antioxidants, offering deep conditioning and anti-inflammatory benefits for the scalp, supporting a healthy environment for hair growth.

The scientific validation of these historical practices underscores a crucial point ❉ ancestral knowledge was often rooted in astute observation and empirical evidence gathered over centuries. The benefits observed, though perhaps not explained by modern chemistry at the time, were undeniably real.

Reflection

The journey through historical hair oils reveals more than just ancient remedies; it unearths a profound connection to identity, community, and the enduring spirit of textured hair heritage. Each drop of oil, each intentional stroke, carries the weight of generations, a living testament to ancestral wisdom that navigated environments, fostered resilience, and celebrated beauty. The ‘Soul of a Strand’ ethos finds its deepest expression in this legacy, acknowledging that our hair is not merely a biological structure but a vibrant vessel of cultural memory. As we look to the future of textured hair care, we stand on the shoulders of those who came before, their plant-based allies continuing to offer potent benefits, reminding us that the deepest innovations often echo the oldest truths.

References

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• Falconi, Dina. (1998). Earthly Bodies and Heavenly Hair. Ceres Press.
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• International Journal of Applied Pharmaceutics. (2011). ECLIPTA ALBA (BHRINGRAJ) ❉ A PROMISING HEPATOPROTECTIVE AND HAIR GROWTH STIMULATING HERB .
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