What Historical Forces Shaped Textured Hair Care Practices?

Roots

Consider, for a moment, the whisper of a breeze through ancestral trees, carrying tales not of distant lands, but of strands that spring from our very being. These strands, coiled and resilient, carry more than genetic code; they bear the indelible marks of history, of resilience, of care passed down through generations. Our textured hair, in its myriad forms, is a living archive, a testament to journeys taken, wisdom gathered, and the enduring spirit of communities across time. To truly comprehend the intimate practices surrounding textured hair, one must first descend into its foundational heritage, tracing the very genesis of its form and the elemental forces that have sculpted its care from antiquity.

Before the dawn of formalized science, before laboratories and microscopes unveiled the intricate architecture of a single strand, ancestral communities possessed a profound, intuitive understanding of their hair. This wisdom, steeped in observation and sustained by communal practice, recognized hair not merely as an adornment, but as a conduit of spirit, a marker of status, a canvas for storytelling. The very biology of textured hair, with its unique elliptical cross-section and varied curl patterns, is a legacy shaped by millennia of human adaptation and migration. These distinct formations, from the tightly coiled z-pattern to the looser wave, are not arbitrary; they speak to the very journey of humanity across diverse climates and continents, dictating the hair’s inherent needs for moisture, protection, and gentle handling.

The Ancestral Anatomy of a Strand

The core understanding of textured hair begins with its unique physiological blueprint. Unlike straight hair, which typically grows in a circular or oval cross-section, textured hair emerges from a follicle that is often elliptical or flattened. This shape compels the hair shaft to bend and curve as it grows, creating the characteristic coils, kinks, and waves. This helical growth pattern significantly impacts how natural oils, or sebum, travel down the hair shaft.

In straighter hair, sebum descends easily, providing natural lubrication. For textured hair, the twists and turns impede this flow, often leaving the ends drier and more prone to breakage. This fundamental biological reality, understood through generations of observation, is a primary historical force that has always guided care practices, emphasizing the critical need for external moisture and protective styling.

The very structure of textured hair, a biological legacy, dictated ancient care practices focused on moisture and protection.

Early ancestral care rituals were, in essence, sophisticated responses to these biological truths. Communities recognized the hair’s inclination towards dryness and its need for gentleness. This recognition led to the use of natural emollients and humectants from their immediate environments. For example, in many West African cultures, the rich, unrefined butter from the shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa) was a cornerstone of hair and skin care.

Its properties, later validated by modern science as being rich in fatty acids and vitamins, provided the much-needed lubrication and seal for coiled strands, safeguarding them from environmental stressors. This practical knowledge, accumulated over centuries, became the foundational science of textured hair care, passed down through oral traditions and communal demonstrations. The intricate dance of applying these natural balms, often accompanied by gentle massage, served not only to nourish the hair but also to strengthen community bonds, as grooming was frequently a shared, intergenerational activity. The wisdom of the elders, passed through the gentle touch of their hands, was as much a part of the conditioning process as the botanical extracts themselves.

Consider the ancient Egyptians, whose elaborate hair rituals are well-documented. Their use of natural oils, such as castor and almond, along with animal fats, served a dual purpose: aesthetic appeal and protection from the harsh desert sun. These preparations were often infused with aromatic herbs, suggesting an early understanding of botanical synergies for both scent and therapeutic properties. The very act of hair preparation was a daily ritual, reflecting a deep respect for personal presentation and spiritual connection.

The meticulous preservation of hair on mummies also speaks to its perceived enduring quality, a physical link between the earthly realm and the afterlife. This meticulous attention to hair, even in death, underscores its profound cultural and spiritual significance in ancient societies.

The Cultural Cartography of Curl Patterns

While contemporary classification systems like Andre Walker’s typing system (which categorizes hair from 1A to 4C) are relatively recent inventions, the concept of diverse hair textures and their specific needs has ancient roots. Ancestral societies, without formal numerical scales, possessed an intimate understanding of the spectrum of hair within their communities. These distinctions often held profound cultural significance, signifying lineage, age, marital status, or tribal affiliation.

Hair types were not merely aesthetic; they were part of a living cultural cartography, influencing specific braiding patterns, adornments, and communal grooming rituals. The care practices associated with each texture were not universal but tailored, a testament to an early, intuitive form of personalized hair care.

• Baobab Oil ❉ Valued across various African regions for its nourishing properties, traditionally applied to strengthen hair and soothe the scalp. Its rich fatty acid profile makes it an exceptional emollient, providing deep conditioning for parched strands.
• Chebe Powder ❉ Utilized by Chadian women for centuries, a blend of herbs that coats the hair shaft, known for reducing breakage and promoting length retention. The protective layer it forms is a testament to sophisticated ancestral chemistry, shielding hair from external aggressors.
• Hibiscus ❉ Used in ancient Indian and African traditions, often as a rinse or paste, for its conditioning and scalp-stimulating qualities. Its mucilage content provides a natural slip, aiding in detangling and promoting a healthy scalp environment.
• Fenugreek ❉ Revered in Ayurvedic and Middle Eastern traditions, its seeds are soaked and ground into a paste, offering protein and nicotinic acid to strengthen strands and promote growth. This ancient ingredient speaks to a long-held understanding of hair’s structural needs.
• Neem Oil ❉ From the Indian subcontinent, this potent oil was used for its medicinal properties, particularly for scalp health, addressing issues like dandruff and infections due to its antimicrobial compounds.

The language used to describe textured hair in these ancient contexts was not clinical, but descriptive and often poetic, reflecting its sacred status. Terms would speak to the hair’s strength, its resemblance to natural forms like springs or vines, or its capacity to hold intricate designs. This lexicon, though unwritten, formed a shared understanding of hair’s inherent characteristics and its role in identity. The historical forces that shaped these practices were not just biological, but deeply communal and spiritual, intertwining hair care with rituals of passage, healing, and collective belonging.

Hair was seen as a connection to the divine, to ancestors, and to the earth itself. The very act of tending to hair was a meditative practice, a moment of connection to self and to the collective ancestral spirit, reinforcing a holistic worldview where beauty and well-being were inseparable.

Hair Growth Cycles and Environmental Influences

The fundamental biological cycles of hair growth ❉ anagen (growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (rest) ❉ are universal, yet their expression and management have been historically influenced by environmental factors and cultural responses. In regions with intense sun, arid climates, or high humidity, hair care practices evolved to counteract these environmental pressures. Protective styles, for instance, were not merely aesthetic choices; they were pragmatic solutions to safeguard the hair from excessive sun exposure, dust, and tangling during daily activities.

The communal practice of oiling and braiding, often performed under the shade of trees, minimized moisture loss and physical damage, thereby supporting healthy growth cycles in challenging environments. The careful partitioning of hair into sections before braiding or twisting, a technique still used today, ensured even tension and reduced stress on the scalp, demonstrating an intuitive biomechanical understanding of how to preserve hair health over time.

The forced displacement of African peoples during the transatlantic slave trade represents a profound historical force that irrevocably altered hair care practices. Stripped of traditional tools, ancestral ingredients, and the communal support systems, enslaved individuals were compelled to adapt. Hair, once a symbol of identity and spiritual connection, became a site of struggle and resistance. The harsh realities of labor, limited resources, and the imposition of European beauty standards forced a dramatic shift in care, often prioritizing functionality and concealment.

This period marks a tragic yet resilient chapter in textured hair heritage, where ingenuity persisted despite immense hardship, laying groundwork for future adaptations and expressions of identity. The absence of traditional combs and brushes led to the innovation of using fingers for detangling and styling, a testament to the enduring human spirit and the intrinsic desire to maintain connection to self. This adaptation underscores the profound human need to preserve cultural markers, even when faced with the most brutal attempts at erasure.

Ritual

As we turn from the foundational understanding of the strand itself, our gaze shifts to the living, breathing practices that have shaped textured hair across epochs. The journey into ritual is a step into the communal spaces where hands met hair, where knowledge was shared, and where identity found vibrant expression. It is a contemplation of how historical currents have not only influenced the tools and techniques employed but have also imbued these styling practices with profound cultural meaning. The transformation of hair, through skilled hands and ancestral wisdom, became a ritual of self-affirmation, a quiet defiance, and a celebration of enduring heritage.

Protective Styling Ancestral Roots

The practice of protective styling, so central to contemporary textured hair care, carries a lineage stretching back thousands of years. Far from being a modern invention, styles such as braids, twists, and locs served multifaceted purposes in ancient African societies. They were practical solutions for managing hair in demanding environments, safeguarding strands from breakage and environmental damage. Yet, their significance extended far beyond mere utility.

Intricate patterns conveyed social status, marital availability, age, tribal affiliation, and even religious beliefs. For instance, the complex cornrow patterns found on ancient Nigerian sculptures or the enduring tradition of locs among various spiritual communities across the continent speak to a sophisticated understanding of hair as a living text, a carrier of meaning. These styles, requiring patience and communal effort, were often rites of passage, fostering bonds between individuals and reinforcing collective identity. The communal aspect of hair braiding, in particular, created a space for storytelling, mentorship, and the transmission of cultural values, solidifying its place as a cornerstone of social life and collective memory.

The transatlantic slave trade, again, acted as a powerful, disruptive force. On slave ships, hair was often shorn or neglected, a deliberate act of dehumanization. Yet, even in the most brutal conditions, the spirit of hair care persisted. Enslaved Africans ingeniously adapted their ancestral braiding techniques, sometimes using them to map escape routes or conceal seeds for planting in new lands.

This period demonstrates how styling practices, born of necessity and resilience, became coded acts of resistance, preserving fragments of a shattered heritage. The profound cultural significance of these styles, even when performed under duress, speaks volumes about the intrinsic value placed on hair as a symbol of self and continuity. The practice of using simple, readily available tools, such as repurposed household items for combs, became a testament to enduring ingenuity (Byrd & Tharps, 2014, p. 55).

This adaptation highlights the unyielding determination to maintain cultural links, however tenuous, in the face of unimaginable adversity. The ingenuity of crafting combs from fish bones or wood scraps, or using plant fibers for extensions, speaks to a deep, inherited resourcefulness that refused to be extinguished by oppression. Hair became a silent language of survival and defiance.

Natural Styling and Defining Techniques

The evolution of natural styling techniques for textured hair is a chronicle of adaptation and reclamation. Historically, without the aid of modern chemical treatments, individuals relied on methods that enhanced the hair’s natural curl pattern. This often involved the use of water, natural oils, and specific manipulations to clump curls and define coils. In many traditional African societies, natural hair was adorned with beads, cowrie shells, and precious metals, signifying wealth, beauty, and spiritual connection.

The very act of defining one’s natural texture was a celebration of inherent beauty, unadulterated by external pressures. The elaborate coiffures of the Mangbetu women of Congo, for example, involving intricate basket-like structures and extensions, were not merely decorative but symbols of status and cultural identity, meticulously cared for over long periods. These styles were a visual lexicon, communicating complex social information without uttering a single word.

The enduring power of natural styling lies in its celebration of inherent curl patterns, a practice rooted in ancestral self-acceptance.

The mid-20th century witnessed a resurgence of natural styling as a political statement, particularly during the Civil Rights and Black Power movements in the United States. The Afro, a voluminous natural style, became a potent symbol of Black pride, self-acceptance, and a rejection of Eurocentric beauty standards that had long dictated hair straightening as a norm. This period marked a conscious return to and reinterpretation of ancestral aesthetics, transforming hair care from a private act into a public declaration of identity and heritage. The movement encouraged individuals to embrace their natural texture, viewing it as a crown rather than something to be tamed or altered.

This societal shift, driven by a yearning for authenticity and self-determination, underscored the profound connection between hair and liberation. The embrace of natural texture became a visible marker of solidarity and a powerful counter-narrative to centuries of imposed aesthetic ideals, signifying a profound internal shift towards self-love and collective empowerment.

Wigs and Hair Extensions Historical Uses

The history of wigs and hair extensions within textured hair heritage is far richer and more ancient than often perceived. Beyond their modern applications, these adornments served diverse purposes in African societies long before their popularization in Western fashion. In ancient Egypt, elaborate wigs made from human hair, wool, or vegetable fibers were worn by both men and women as symbols of status, hygiene, and protection from the sun. These were often meticulously styled and adorned, reflecting the wearer’s social standing and personal aesthetic.

Similarly, various West African cultures utilized hair extensions, often integrated into braids or woven into existing hair, to signify marital status, mourning, or ceremonial readiness. These were not about concealing natural hair, but enhancing its volume and length to achieve culturally significant styles. The practice of adding hair, whether for volume or length, allowed for a broader spectrum of expressive possibilities, extending the canvas of the scalp to convey complex social messages and participate in elaborate ceremonial displays.

The contemporary landscape of wigs and extensions for textured hair is a complex interplay of historical utility, cultural expression, and modern innovation. While they continue to serve protective functions and allow for versatile styling, their usage also reflects ongoing conversations around beauty standards, self-expression, and the legacy of hair manipulation. The ability to switch between natural textures and extended styles offers a freedom that, while different from ancient contexts, still echoes the historical desire for adornment and self-presentation.

This modern versatility, while influenced by global trends, can also be seen as a continuation of the ancestral tradition of hair as a mutable form of self-expression, adapting to new social contexts while retaining its core significance. The modern wig, in many ways, carries the spirit of the ceremonial headpiece, allowing for transformation and self-definition.

Thermal Reconditioning and Historical Context

The application of heat to textured hair for straightening or reconditioning has a particularly fraught history, deeply intertwined with colonial legacies and the imposition of European beauty ideals. While rudimentary forms of heat application, such as hot combs, existed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, their widespread adoption was largely driven by a societal pressure to conform to straight hair aesthetics. This era saw the rise of self-made entrepreneurs like Madam C.J.

Walker, who, while providing much-needed hair care products, also popularized tools like the “pressing comb” that enabled women to straighten their hair. This practice, while offering economic opportunity and a means of social navigation, also represented a departure from traditional, natural styling, reflecting a complex societal landscape where economic survival often necessitated aesthetic compromise.

The historical forces at play here were not simply about aesthetics; they were about survival, assimilation, and the insidious nature of internalized oppression. For generations, straight hair was often perceived as a prerequisite for social mobility and acceptance in a dominant white society. The “good hair” versus “bad hair” dichotomy, a painful legacy of slavery and Jim Crow, dictated that hair closer to European textures was deemed more desirable. This profound historical pressure shaped not only styling practices but also the very self-perception of individuals within the Black community.

Understanding this history is crucial to appreciating the ongoing journey towards hair liberation and the celebration of all textured hair forms. The societal demand for straightened hair created a significant economic niche, allowing Black women entrepreneurs to build empires by addressing a deeply felt need, even as it perpetuated a challenging beauty standard. This complex dynamic highlights how historical forces can simultaneously restrict and create opportunities, leaving a layered heritage that continues to shape contemporary choices and conversations around hair.

Relay

Our exploration now ascends to a higher plane, one where the scientific understanding of textured hair converges with the deep currents of cultural practice and ancestral wisdom. This is where the enduring legacy of care truly reveals its sophistication, demonstrating how generations have adapted, innovated, and preserved rituals that address the hair’s unique needs while simultaneously fortifying identity. It is a profound inquiry into how the holistic approach to textured hair care, from daily regimens to nighttime sanctuaries, serves as a continuous relay of knowledge, echoing the past while shaping a resilient future for every strand.

Crafting Regimens Inspired by Ancestral Wisdom?

The development of a personalized textured hair regimen is, at its heart, a modern interpretation of ancestral principles. For centuries, care was not a commercial transaction but an intrinsic part of daily life, guided by communal knowledge and locally sourced botanicals. The concept of “listening” to one’s hair and body, a core tenet of holistic wellness, was a lived reality. This involved observing how hair responded to different natural elements, to changes in diet, or to specific handling techniques.

For instance, the consistent use of fermented rice water for hair growth and strength in ancient East Asian cultures, or the application of specific plant extracts for scalp health in various indigenous African communities, were not random acts but carefully observed practices yielding tangible results. These traditional regimens, often passed from elder to youth, prioritized balance, consistency, and the symbiotic relationship between internal well-being and external presentation. The communal aspect of sharing these practices, often during collective grooming sessions, solidified their efficacy and ensured their transmission across generations, making the regimen a shared heritage. This collective wisdom, refined over countless cycles of observation and application, formed a robust framework for hair health.

Modern science now often validates the efficacy of these time-honored practices. The proteins and amino acids in rice water, for example, are now understood to contribute to hair elasticity and shine. Similarly, the anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties of certain African herbs, long used for scalp ailments, are now being isolated and studied. This convergence of ancient wisdom and contemporary research underscores the enduring intelligence embedded within ancestral hair care, allowing us to build regimens that honor both tradition and scientific understanding.

The journey towards optimal hair health is not a solitary one; it is a continuation of a collective legacy of care. This synergy between inherited knowledge and modern scientific inquiry allows for a deeper appreciation of the wisdom passed down, transforming what might seem like simple traditions into sophisticated biochemical interactions. The scientific lens simply offers a new language for what ancestral communities already understood intuitively, deepening our reverence for their profound understanding of the natural world.

The Nighttime Sanctuary and Bonnet Wisdom

The ritual of nighttime hair protection holds a particularly poignant place in textured hair heritage. The bonnet, the silk scarf, or the satin pillowcase are not mere accessories; they are modern extensions of a long-standing practice rooted in both practicality and preservation. Historically, protecting hair during sleep was crucial for minimizing tangles, preserving moisture, and maintaining intricate styles that often took hours to create. This was especially important in environments where daily washing was not feasible or desirable due to water scarcity or harsh conditions.

The act of wrapping hair before sleep was a daily commitment to its longevity and appearance, a small but significant act of self-care, demonstrating a foresight in hair maintenance that transcended mere aesthetics. This deliberate act of protection ensured that the effort put into styling during the day was not undone by the friction and dryness of sleep, preserving the hair’s integrity and extending the life of complex coiffures.

Nighttime hair protection, a ritual of preservation, safeguards textured strands and extends the life of carefully crafted styles.

The cultural significance of the bonnet, in particular, deepened through the experiences of the African diaspora. In contexts where Black hair was often policed, ridiculed, or deemed unprofessional, the bonnet became a private sanctuary, a symbol of self-preservation and a quiet act of defiance against external scrutiny. It allowed individuals to maintain their hair’s integrity, ensuring that when they presented themselves to the world, their hair could reflect their desired image, whether natural or styled. This simple fabric became a silent guardian of hair health and a cultural emblem of care, a tradition passed down through mothers, grandmothers, and aunties.

The shared experience of bonnet-wearing became a subtle form of collective identity, a nod to a shared history of protecting and preserving one’s crown against a world that often sought to diminish it. This practice continues to be a quiet act of self-love and heritage affirmation, a daily ritual that connects generations through a shared commitment to hair health and cultural pride.

A significant historical example of the impact of such seemingly simple practices can be seen in the economic rise of Black hair care businesses in the early 20th century. Figures like Annie Turnbo Malone and Madam C.J. Walker understood the specific needs of Black hair, including the importance of nighttime care. Their products, often including hair pomades and scalp treatments, were accompanied by instructions for wrapping hair at night, demonstrating how these rituals were formalized and commercialized to meet the demands of a community seeking both care and cultural affirmation.

This commercialization, while adapting to market forces, was still deeply informed by the pre-existing, inherited practices of hair maintenance. The widespread adoption of these products and accompanying rituals speaks to a collective recognition of their value within the community, solidifying their place in the evolving heritage of textured hair care. This historical period showcases how ancestral practices, when met with entrepreneurial spirit, could create powerful avenues for economic self-sufficiency and community well-being, even amidst systemic challenges.

Ingredient Lore for Textured Hair Needs

The exploration of ingredients for textured hair is a return to the earth, to the botanical wisdom cultivated by ancestral communities. Before the advent of synthetic compounds, all hair care was inherently natural, drawing from the rich biodiversity of local environments. The efficacy of these traditional ingredients, from plant oils to clays and herbs, was discovered through generations of trial and error, observation, and shared knowledge. This ingredient lore forms a foundational aspect of textured hair heritage, guiding modern preferences for natural and minimally processed products.

The deep connection to the land, understanding its bounty and its healing properties, was central to these practices. This symbiotic relationship with nature informed not only what was used but also how it was harvested and prepared, ensuring sustainability and reverence for the earth’s gifts. Each plant, each mineral, held a specific place in the ancestral pharmacopeia for hair and scalp wellness.

1. Shea Butter ❉ Extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree, revered for its emollient and protective qualities, particularly for dry, coiled hair. Its unsaponifiable components provide deep nourishment and a lasting seal, crucial for retaining moisture in highly textured strands.
2. Aloe Vera ❉ Used across various ancient cultures for its soothing, moisturizing, and healing properties for both scalp and hair. Its enzymatic properties aid in scalp health, while its mucilage offers natural conditioning and slip for detangling.
3. Coconut Oil ❉ A staple in tropical regions, historically applied to condition hair, add shine, and provide a protective barrier against humidity. Its molecular structure allows it to penetrate the hair shaft, reducing protein loss and strengthening hair from within.
4. Rhassoul Clay ❉ Originating from the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, used for centuries as a gentle cleanser and detoxifier for hair and skin. Its high mineral content helps to draw out impurities without stripping natural oils, leaving hair soft and defined.
5. Amla (Indian Gooseberry) ❉ A cornerstone of Ayurvedic hair care, used to strengthen hair follicles, prevent premature graying, and stimulate growth due to its rich vitamin C content and antioxidants. Its historical use highlights a global ancestral understanding of hair vitality.
6. Black Seed Oil ❉ Known for its medicinal properties in Middle Eastern and African traditions, it was used for scalp health due to its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial compounds, promoting a healthy environment for hair growth.

The forced migration of African peoples meant a disconnection from many indigenous ingredients. This necessitated adaptation, leading to the incorporation of new local botanicals or the reinterpretation of existing ones. For instance, in the Americas, new plant resources were sometimes adopted, or traditional methods were applied to available ingredients. This dynamic interplay between ancestral knowledge and new environments speaks to the adaptability and ingenuity embedded within textured hair heritage.

The continued preference for natural ingredients today is a conscious reclamation of this ancestral connection, a desire to nourish hair with elements that have historically served its unique biology. This reconnection is not merely about product choice; it is a profound act of honoring lineage and asserting autonomy over one’s body and identity, a quiet yet powerful statement of cultural pride.

Problem Solving with Inherited Wisdom?

Addressing common textured hair challenges, such as dryness, breakage, or scalp irritation, is not a new endeavor. Ancestral communities faced these issues and developed sophisticated, holistic solutions. Their approach was rarely compartmentalized; hair health was understood as an extension of overall well-being, influenced by diet, hydration, stress, and environmental factors. For example, dietary practices rich in nutrient-dense foods, often dictated by seasonal availability and traditional farming, inherently supported healthy hair growth from within.

The understanding that internal balance affected external presentation was a cornerstone of their problem-solving. This integrated view of health meant that hair issues were often addressed through systemic adjustments, not just topical applications, reflecting a truly holistic approach to wellness that considered the entire person.

The enduring wisdom of ancestral communities reminds us that problem-solving for textured hair is not merely about applying a product; it is about understanding the interconnectedness of biology, environment, and holistic care. This perspective, deeply rooted in heritage, offers a powerful framework for navigating contemporary hair challenges, inviting us to look beyond superficial remedies and to consider the deeper influences on hair health. It is a continuous dialogue between the wisdom of the past and the innovations of the present, all in service of nurturing the vibrant heritage of textured hair. The lessons from generations past provide a blueprint for sustainable, respectful care that acknowledges the hair’s inherent qualities and its profound connection to identity, reminding us that true wellness begins from within and extends outward to every strand.

Reflection

As we reach the quiet space of contemplation, we are left with a profound sense of the enduring legacy etched within every coil, kink, and wave. Textured hair care practices are not isolated phenomena; they are living testaments to human ingenuity, resilience, and the unyielding spirit of cultural preservation. From the elemental biology that shaped ancient responses to dryness and fragility, through the communal rituals that braided identity and belonging, to the contemporary reclamation of natural aesthetics, the journey of textured hair is a continuous dialogue between past and present.

The historical forces that have shaped these practices ❉ from the dictates of climate and environment to the brutal ruptures of forced migration and the subtle pressures of societal norms ❉ have forged a heritage of profound depth. Each product, each technique, each style carries the echoes of ancestral hands and the whispers of stories untold. To engage with textured hair care is to partake in this rich continuum, to honor the wisdom that sustained generations, and to contribute to a future where every strand is celebrated for its inherent beauty and its undeniable connection to a luminous heritage. It is to truly understand the soul of a strand, recognizing it as a vibrant thread in the vast, living archive of human experience.

References

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