Roots
To truly understand the textures that crown our heads today, we must journey back, far beyond the confines of recent memory or fleeting trends. We are speaking of an ancestral memory, etched into each curl, each coil, a heritage that whispers tales across generations. Current perceptions of textured hair, whether celebrated or misunderstood, are not spontaneous phenomena.
They are, rather, the living echo of historical forces, a confluence of biological legacy, cultural reverence, brutal disruption, and persistent resilience. To peel back the layers of these present-day understandings, one must acknowledge the profound past from which they spring.
Hair’s Earliest Language
Long before the colonial gaze attempted to redefine beauty, hair in African societies communicated volumes. It served as a visual language, conveying messages about a person’s identity, age, marital status, social standing, and even spiritual beliefs. The intricate artistry of ancient African hairstyles was a testament to communal bonds, where the creation of these looks could take hours, often days, fostering connection and shared wisdom.
Across ancient African societies, textured hair spoke a language of identity, community, and spiritual connection.
Consider the Yoruba people of Nigeria, whose detailed hairstyles reflected societal roles and affiliations. Or the Himba tribe in Namibia, whose characteristic dreadlocked styles, coated with red ochre paste, symbolized their intimate connection to the earth and their ancestors. Hair was viewed as the most elevated part of the body, a conduit for spiritual messages among groups like the Yoruba, where braided strands were thought to send communications to the divine.
This reverence stemmed from a deep, intuitive understanding of textured hair’s natural properties. Its unique helical structure, a biological marvel, allows for exceptional volume and protective capabilities, qualities that ancient communities surely recognized and honored. The tightly coiled strands, the curved follicle, these were not merely biological facts but attributes integral to identity and societal roles.
The Architecture of a Strand, through Time
Modern science helps us appreciate the biological specificity of textured hair, validating, in a way, the ancient wisdom that valued its distinct nature. At its core, textured hair possesses an elliptical cross-section, differing from the rounder cross-section of straight hair. This shape, combined with the way the hair shaft grows from a curved follicle, causes the strand to coil upon itself, forming the characteristic spirals we see.
The classifications of textured hair, often encountered today as numbers and letters (e.g. 3A, 4C), aim to categorize these curl patterns. Yet, the origin of such systems carries a complex weight. Early 20th-century systems, like Eugen Fischer’s “hair gauge” of 1908, were rooted in racial categorization, seeking to measure a person’s perceived proximity to whiteness based on hair texture.
This dark history reminds us that even attempts at scientific understanding can be shaped by harmful societal biases. While contemporary systems, like the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, developed in the 1990s, aim to assist with product selection and hair care, they still face criticism for sometimes creating a hierarchy that values looser curls over more coily textures, a lingering echo of historical preferences.
A Lexicon of Legacy
The words we use for textured hair carry history within their very syllables. Terms like “kinky,” originally used as a derogatory slur, have been reclaimed by the community as expressions of pride. Understanding this historical weight allows us to approach hair language with respect and intention.
- Coils ❉ Refers to tightly wound, spring-like strands, often associated with hair in the Type 4 range.
- Kinks ❉ Describes hair with sharp angles and z-patterns, celebrating its distinct shape.
- Locs ❉ Traditionally called “dreadlocks,” this term has a problematic origin linked to colonial descriptions of African hair as “dreadful”. The preferred term, “locs,” represents a reclamation of cultural significance and beauty.
- Cornrows ❉ An ancient braiding technique, found across Africa, where hair is braided close to the scalp in raised rows.
The biological factors influencing hair growth cycles ❉ genetics, diet, environment ❉ were instinctively managed within ancestral communities. Historical diets rich in nutrients and reliance on natural elements for care likely supported vibrant, strong hair, practices that contrast sharply with the nutritional deprivations experienced during periods of enslavement. These pre-colonial understandings of hair, as a living part of the self connected to a broader cosmos, lay the foundational heritage for how textured hair is, and ought to be, viewed.
Ritual
The hands that once adorned, nourished, and styled hair in ancient African villages carried not just skill but the profound continuity of cultural practice. These rituals, passed down through the generations, form the deep wellspring of textured hair heritage. Yet, the currents of history, particularly the brutal disruptions of the transatlantic slave trade and subsequent colonial influences, drastically reshaped these practices and, consequently, perceptions of textured hair. This section explores how these historical forces have intertwined with styling, tools, and the very concept of hair care, transforming intimate rituals into acts of resistance or conformity.
When Hair Became a Mark of Oppression and Resistance
The arrival of enslaved Africans in the Americas brought a deliberate, systematic erasure of cultural identity. A primary act of dehumanization was the forced shaving of heads upon arrival, severing visible ties to homeland, community, and social status. This violent act aimed to strip people of their past and sever their connection to their heritage.
Despite this profound trauma, ingenuity and resilience prevailed. Enslaved people adapted, using what little was available to maintain some semblance of hair care, often resorting to basic ingredients like butter, kerosene, or bacon grease, and rudimentary tools not meant for hair. The act of styling, even with such limitations, became an act of defiance, a quiet claim to selfhood in an environment designed to deny it. The headwrap, too, began as a practical necessity for protection from sun and lice, but transformed into a symbol of resilience and personal style.
Then, in 1786, Spanish Governor Esteban Rodríguez Miró of Louisiana enacted the Tignon Law. This legislation mandated that free women of color cover their hair with a tignon or headscarf. The stated purpose was to curb what was perceived as “excessive luxury” and to distinguish Black women from white women, particularly as their elaborate hairstyles and beauty often attracted white men, unsettling the established social order. This was a direct attempt to diminish their presence, to make them appear less attractive and signify their lower social status.
The Tignon Law, intended to suppress the visual beauty of Black women, was defiantly transformed into a powerful statement of style and self-worth through intricate adornment.
Yet, these women, with ancestral artistry flowing in their veins, turned the oppressive decree on its head. They adorned their mandated tignons with the finest silks, ribbons, and jewels, transforming a symbol of subjugation into a statement of unparalleled style and distinction, outshining their white counterparts and subverting the law without breaking it. This act of creative rebellion stands as a powerful historical example of how systemic oppression failed to extinguish the spirit of self-expression and the reclamation of aesthetic autonomy, leaving an indelible mark on how headwear is viewed within Black and mixed-race communities today.
The Shadow of Straightness
The transatlantic forced migration and the subsequent social hierarchies established a pervasive preference for hair textures that resembled European hair. Lighter skin and straighter hair were often rewarded with preferential treatment, creating a caste system within enslaved communities. This grim reality led many Black people to seek methods, often damaging, to alter their hair to conform. The late 1800s saw the popularization of hot combs, followed by chemical relaxers in the early 20th century, which aimed to permanently straighten coiled textures.
The desire for “good hair” ❉ a term historically synonymous with straight or loosely curled hair ❉ became deeply ingrained, influencing generations and persisting even after the abolition of slavery. This historical pressure explains, in part, why many Black individuals today still grapple with internalized perceptions that favor straight hair, impacting their styling choices and self-perception. The practice of straightening, born from a necessity for survival and social acceptance, gradually became a dominant cultural norm, shaping beauty standards for decades.
Reclaiming the Coils: Modern Movements
The mid-20th century brought a powerful counter-movement. The Civil Rights and Black Power Movements of the 1960s sparked a profound cultural shift, celebrating Black identity in all its forms, including hair. The Afro hairstyle became a potent symbol of Black pride, resistance, and a conscious rejection of Eurocentric beauty standards. Leaders and activists, such as Angela Davis, boldly wore their natural Afros, making a political statement and inspiring countless others to shed the damaging practices of chemical straightening.
This first wave of the natural hair movement laid crucial groundwork. Though its prominence waned in later decades, the seeds of self-acceptance and cultural affirmation were sown. The early 2000s witnessed a resurgence, a “second wave” of the natural hair movement, driven by greater access to information through the internet and social media, allowing individuals to learn how to care for their unique textures and connect with a global community. This ongoing movement represents a continuous journey of cultural reclamation, honoring ancestral practices, and redefining beauty on one’s own terms.
Relay
The echoes of history reverberate through our present-day textured hair experiences. Current perceptions are not mere whims of fashion; they are complex constructs shaped by centuries of societal conditioning, legal interventions, and powerful acts of resistance. This deeper examination reveals how the past continues to inform the present, particularly for Black and mixed-race individuals, and why understanding this legacy is paramount to shaping a more inclusive future for textured hair.
The Enduring Weight of Appearance Rules
The legacy of Eurocentric beauty standards continues to play a significant role in societal perceptions of textured hair. Even in contemporary settings, textured hair often faces scrutiny in professional or academic environments. Policies, sometimes unwritten, can implicitly or explicitly deem natural Black hairstyles as “unprofessional” or “unruly,” creating barriers to opportunity and reinforcing historical biases. This is not simply a matter of aesthetics; it is a manifestation of historical power dynamics that sought to control and devalue Black bodies and identities.
Consider the “Comb Test” or “Pencil Test” once used in places like the United States and apartheid South Africa, where individuals could be denied entry or even racial classification based on whether a comb or pencil could pass through their hair. Such tests, explicitly designed to filter out Black hair textures, highlight how hair became a tool of racial segregation and discrimination, with profound psychological and social consequences that persist today. The implications of these historical forces on internalized racial oppression and self-perception for African American women are particularly stark (Collins, 2002; Montle, 2020), as documented in academic research.
Legal and Social Reclamations in the Public Square
In recent years, legislative efforts like the CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair) in the United States directly confront this historical discrimination. This act, first signed into law in California in 2019, seeks to prohibit discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles associated with race in workplaces and public schools. The very necessity of such legislation underscores the deep-seated nature of these historical biases and the ongoing struggle for hair liberation. This legislative movement is a direct response to a long history of policing Black hair, from school appearance policies to workplace dress codes.
Why Does Society Police Textured Hair?
The policing of textured hair stems from deep historical roots of dehumanization and control during slavery and colonialism. Early European colonizers actively classified Afro-textured hair as closer to animal fur or wool than human hair, directly linking hair texture to a narrative of inferiority to justify enslavement and exploitation. This dehumanizing rhetoric has had a chillingly persistent effect, contributing to internalized negative perceptions and bias against textured hair that continues to this day. The concept of “good hair” versus “bad hair” ❉ a direct progeny of these historical power structures ❉ still subtly influences perceptions within and outside of communities of color.
The current movement for hair acceptance is not simply a trend; it is a continuation of a centuries-long fight for dignity and self-determination. The visibility of natural hair in media and popular culture plays a crucial role in normalizing and celebrating textured hair, challenging the prevailing Eurocentric beauty paradigms that have historically dominated. However, even within the natural hair movement, discussions arise regarding colorism and texturism, reflecting a continued preference for looser curl patterns over more tightly coiled ones, a subtle echo of the very hierarchies the movement seeks to dismantle. This highlights the complex, layered impact of historical forces, showing how even movements of liberation can sometimes contend with internalized biases.
A Continuous Narrative of Adornment
The ancestral connection to hair as a canvas for cultural expression never truly vanished. It merely adapted, sometimes overtly, sometimes subtly, against the backdrop of historical pressures. Contemporary styling, from intricate braids to vibrant locs, draws directly from this deep well of heritage, connecting wearers to their roots. The enduring practice of styling and caring for textured hair, often still a communal activity, reflects a continuity of ancestral rituals, a living archive of identity and resilience.
Modern hair politics are a direct consequence of historical power structures that attempted to erase Black identity.
The dialogue surrounding textured hair continues to be a vibrant space for identity negotiation, cultural affirmation, and societal change. Understanding the historical forces that have sculpted current perceptions is not just an academic exercise. It is a vital act of honoring legacy, recognizing struggle, and shaping a future where every strand is celebrated for its inherent beauty and the rich heritage it carries.
Reflection
As we chart the journey of textured hair perceptions, from ancient reverence to the complex modern landscape, a singular truth shines: each coil and curl carries a story. This story is not solely one of biology, nor of style, but a profound inscription of human experience, a living archive of enduring heritage. The ‘Soul of a Strand’ whispers of ancestral wisdom, of the resilient spirit that transformed instruments of control into symbols of beauty. It calls upon us to recognize the historical currents that have shaped how textured hair is seen, to understand the long shadows of oppression, and to celebrate the radiant light of reclamation.
The path ahead involves not only a recognition of this deep past but an active commitment to preserving its legacy. It calls for us to view textured hair not as something to be managed or conformed, but as a testament to continuity, a physical link to generations of resilience and creativity. Our perception of hair, truly, is our perception of self, of community, and of the sacred lineage that connects us all. May we always approach this heritage with the reverence it deserves, allowing the stories within each strand to guide us toward a more accepting and appreciative collective future.
References
- Byrd, Ayana, and Lori L. Tharps. Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Griffin, 2014.
- Collins, Patricia Hill. Black Feminist Thought: Knowledge, Consciousness, and the Politics of Empowerment. Routledge, 2002.
- Fischer, Eugen. “Die Rehobother Bastards und das Bastardierungsproblem beim Menschen.” 1908.
- Montle, Masechaba. “Hair, Identity, and Politics: A Critical Analysis of the Natural Hair Movement Among Black South African Women.” Master’s thesis, University of the Witwatersrand, 2020.
- Patton, Tracey Owens. “Hey Girl, Am I More Than My Hair? African American Women and Their Struggles with Eurocentric Standards of Beauty.” Journal of Black Studies 37, no. 5 (2007): 742-763.
- Roberts, Dorothy. Killing the Black Body: Race, Reproduction, and the Meaning of Liberty. Vintage Books, 1997.
- Russell, Michele. “Slave Codes and Slave Women’s Body Politics.” NWSA Journal 9, no. 3 (1997): 16-29.
- White, Deborah Gray. Ar’n’t I a Woman?: Female Slaves in the Plantation South. W. W. Norton & Company, 1985.