
Roots
Imagine for a moment, tracing the lineage of a single strand of hair, not just through generations of your own kin, but back through the very sands of time, to the banks of the Nile. For those of us whose hair defies a straight line, who carry the coiled strength of generations in our crowns, ancient Egypt offers a profound mirror. This exploration unveils how the wisdom of ancient Kemet, a land of deep spiritual connection and sophisticated practices, speaks directly to the heritage of textured hair care . It is a recognition that the attentive care our ancestors gave their hair echoes in our practices today, connecting us to a vast, living archive of ancestral wisdom.

What Does Mummified Hair Reveal About Ancient Textures?
The physical remnants from ancient Egyptian tombs provide compelling testimony. Scientific analyses of mummified hair from various periods unveil a spectrum of hair types, from wavy to distinctly coily and curly. This contradicts any simplified notion of a singular hair texture in ancient Egypt. For instance, the renowned Queen Tiye, grandmother to Tutankhamun, possessed a crown of thick, long, curly hair .
Analysis of her preserved hair reveals it was treated with various oils and substances, a clear indication of dedicated maintenance for her textured strands. Her hair, perhaps reddish from henna, stands as a vibrant, undeniable connection to the complex and diverse hair types present in that ancient society.
Ancient Egyptian mummified hair exhibits a diverse range of textures, affirming the presence of coily and curly hair types within the population.
The climate of Egypt, with its dry conditions, contributed to the remarkable preservation of human remains, including hair. This natural phenomenon offers researchers an incredible window into ancient grooming practices. Studies conducted by scholars like Joann Fletcher, who meticulously examined numerous mummy hair samples, confirm that individuals across social strata and genders engaged in elaborate hair care. This meticulous attention paid to hair, regardless of social standing, underscores its social and spiritual significance.

Anatomy of Ancient Textured Hair Care
While ancient Egyptians did not possess a modern understanding of hair’s microscopic anatomy, their practices demonstrate an intuitive comprehension of its needs. Textured hair, by its very nature, tends to be more prone to dryness due to the elliptical shape of its follicle and the way natural oils struggle to travel down the shaft of the curl. The consistent use of rich oils and fats, evidenced by archaeological findings and textual references, speaks to an innate understanding of this characteristic.
For instance, the Ebers Papyrus, a medical text dating back to approximately 1550 BCE, contains numerous recipes for hair treatments. These include concoctions for hair growth and combating baldness, often incorporating various animal fats and oils. Such formulations, even if their efficacy is debated by modern science, clearly indicate an awareness of the scalp and hair’s need for lubrication and fortification. These ancestral remedies laid a foundational understanding of nourishing the hair from root to tip.
| Ancient Ingredient Group Animal Fats (e.g. lion, hippo, crocodile), |
| Potential Ancestral Benefit Emollient, moisture sealants, styling hold |
| Modern Parallel/Benefit for Textured Hair Heavy butters (shea, cocoa), occlusive oils for moisture retention |
| Ancient Ingredient Group Plant Oils (e.g. castor oil, olive oil, sesame oil), |
| Potential Ancestral Benefit Nourishment, conditioning, shine, growth promotion |
| Modern Parallel/Benefit for Textured Hair Deep conditioning oils, hot oil treatments, scalp stimulation |
| Ancient Ingredient Group Henna, |
| Potential Ancestral Benefit Hair dye, strengthening, conditioning |
| Modern Parallel/Benefit for Textured Hair Natural hair dyes, protein treatments for strengthening |
| Ancient Ingredient Group Beeswax/Resin, |
| Potential Ancestral Benefit Styling hold, environmental protection |
| Modern Parallel/Benefit for Textured Hair Hair gels, pomades, curl-defining creams with hold |
| Ancient Ingredient Group Ancient Egyptian wisdom in selecting materials for hair care continues to inspire contemporary practices focused on natural nourishment and hair resilience. |

Ritual
The care of textured hair in ancient Egypt transcended mere grooming. It was a deeply ingrained practice, a blend of artistry and ingenuity, speaking to the profound respect held for one’s physical presentation and spiritual alignment. The historical evidence paints a picture of deliberate, ritualistic engagement with hair, reflecting a communal commitment to beauty, hygiene, and social expression. The elaborate styles discovered on mummies and depicted in art are not coincidental; they tell a story of intentional cultivation and masterful manipulation of varied hair textures.

How Did Ancient Egyptians Style Textured Hair?
Styling techniques in ancient Egypt were surprisingly sophisticated. Braiding, a fundamental element in textured hair care across African diasporic communities for millennia, was a central practice. Evidence of intricately braided hair, whether natural or in wigs and extensions, is abundant.
This practice served both aesthetic and practical purposes, providing protective styling that minimized tangling and breakage, especially in the arid climate. Women in ancient Egypt often wore hairstyles that included multiple narrow plaits, twists, or crimped tresses.
Beyond simple braiding, ancient Egyptians were adept at creating complex coiffures. Archaeological digs at sites such as Tell el-Amarna have uncovered human remains with incredibly elaborate hairstyles. One notable discovery was a woman with approximately 70 hair extensions, meticulously attached in various layers and heights on her head.
These extensions, sometimes crafted from hair of different colors, indicate a vibrant culture of hair adornment and customization, even using hair from multiple donors. This practice mirrors modern hair extension techniques, underscoring a continuous heritage of hair enhancement .

What Tools and Products Sustained Ancient Styles?
The tools used in ancient Egyptian hair care offer additional insights. Combs, crafted from materials like ivory, bone, and wood, have been found in tombs dating as far back as 3900 BCE. These combs often featured decorative motifs, suggesting their significance extended beyond purely functional use, indicating their role as symbols of status and artistry. While some historical discussions question the specific design of these combs for very tightly coiled hair, the sheer quantity and widespread use suggest they were indispensable for detangling and styling.
A particularly significant discovery confirming the intentional styling of textured hair comes from scientific analysis. Researchers studying hair samples from 18 mummies, some dating back 3,500 years, found evidence of a fat-based substance applied to the hair. This ‘hair gel’ was composed of biological long-chain fatty acids, including palmitic and stearic acid.
Natalie McCreesh, an archaeological scientist involved in the study, proposed that this fatty coating served as a styling product to hold hair in place, both in life and in death. This discovery provides strong empirical backing for the use of sophisticated styling products.
Archaeological analysis of mummified hair has revealed the use of a fat-based substance, akin to a styling gel, indicating advanced ancient Egyptian hair setting practices.
This ancient ‘hair gel’ was not limited to the elite; it was found on both male and female mummies across different social standings, illustrating a widespread cultural practice of maintaining hair appearance. The presence of metal implements resembling curling tongs in tombs also suggests a desire for specific textures, possibly to achieve fashionable ringlets. Such findings paint a vivid picture of a society deeply invested in styling, where practical ingenuity met aesthetic desires, shaping a visible hair heritage .
- Combs ❉ Made from ivory, bone, or wood, dating back to 3900 BCE. They were often decorative and practical.
- Hairpins ❉ Used to secure elaborate updos and buns.
- Wigs and Extensions ❉ Constructed from human hair or plant fibers, braided and layered.
- Styling Agents ❉ Fat-based gels, beeswax, and resins for holding styles and adding sheen.
- Curling Tongs ❉ Metal implements found in tombs, suggesting specific texture manipulation.

Relay
The narrative of ancient Egyptian textured hair care transcends mere archaeological finds and chemical analyses; it resonates with the very soul of textured hair heritage in contemporary Black and mixed-race communities. The practices and beliefs of the ancients were not isolated historical curiosities but vital components of a cultural continuum, echoes heard clearly in today’s care rituals. Their hair was a canvas for identity, a symbol of status, and a conduit for spiritual connection, demonstrating a profound understanding of hair as an extension of self.

What Was the Societal Meaning of Hair in Ancient Egypt?
In ancient Egypt, hair carried immense cultural weight. It was a visual marker of social standing, age, and even tribal affiliation. Elaborate hairstyles and wigs, meticulously crafted, signified wealth, religious devotion, and a connection to the divine, particularly among the elite.
The more intricate the coiffure, the higher one’s position in society. This emphasis on hair as a symbol of identity and status is deeply rooted in African traditions, where hair has long been a powerful form of communication, conveying marital status, age, wealth, and lineage.
Beyond aesthetics, hair was intrinsically linked to hygiene and protection. Wigs, often made from human hair and skillfully braided, were not solely for vanity. They served a practical purpose, shielding the scalp from the intense Egyptian sun and acting as a barrier against lice, a common issue in ancient societies.
Priests, in particular, shaved their heads for ritual purity, then often donned elaborate wigs for ceremonial duties. This duality of purpose—beauty and practicality—underscores the holistic approach to hair care that defined ancient Egyptian practices.

How Do Ancient Hair Practices Speak to Modern Heritage?
The ancestral knowledge embedded in ancient Egyptian hair care rituals finds powerful resonance in modern textured hair heritage . The consistent use of oils for moisture, the preference for braiding and protective styles, and the understanding of hair as a spiritual and social statement all bridge the millennia. For example, the use of various fats and oils, identified in ancient Egyptian hair analysis, mirrors the modern emphasis on natural oils and butters for nourishing and sealing moisture into textured strands. Castor oil, explicitly mentioned in some Egyptian sources as a treatment for hair health and growth, remains a staple in many contemporary Black hair care regimens.
Consider the case of Queen Tiye, whose preserved, coily hair serves as a tangible link. Her majestic hairstyle, maintained with a blend of natural substances, stands as a historical testament to the efficacy of ancestral care practices for naturally textured hair. In a study published in the Journal of Archaeological Science, McCreesh and colleagues (2011) conducted gas chromatography–mass spectrometry on mummified hair samples, identifying specific biological long-chain fatty acids that formed a ‘gel’ to maintain hairstyles.
This precise scientific evidence confirms the intentional application of complex formulations, demonstrating an advanced understanding of product chemistry for hair. Such a finding speaks to the ingenuity of ancient Egyptian barbers and stylists who, without modern laboratories, crafted effective solutions for styling and preserving diverse hair types, including those with tighter coils and curls.
The emphasis on hair protection, evident in the widespread use of wigs and extensions to shield natural hair, also finds an echo in the modern popularity of protective styles like braids, twists, and weaves within Black communities. These styles not only preserve length and minimize damage but also act as powerful expressions of cultural identity and continuity. The practice of adorning hair with jewels, beads, and gold in ancient Egypt, is mirrored in the contemporary use of hair accessories that celebrate and elevate textured styles.
| Aspect of Care Moisture & Nourishment |
| Ancient Egyptian Practice Application of animal fats, plant oils (castor, olive, sesame), |
| Contemporary Textured Hair Heritage Regular use of natural oils, butters, and deep conditioners for moisture retention |
| Aspect of Care Protective Styling |
| Ancient Egyptian Practice Braids, wigs, hair extensions for sun protection and hygiene, |
| Contemporary Textured Hair Heritage Braids, twists, locs, and weaves to minimize manipulation and preserve hair health |
| Aspect of Care Styling Hold |
| Ancient Egyptian Practice Fat-based gels and beeswax to set styles, |
| Contemporary Textured Hair Heritage Curl custards, gels, and styling creams to define and hold natural patterns |
| Aspect of Care Tools for Grooming |
| Ancient Egyptian Practice Combs of ivory, bone, wood for detangling and styling, |
| Contemporary Textured Hair Heritage Wide-tooth combs, detangling brushes, and picks designed for textured hair |
| Aspect of Care Hair as Identity |
| Ancient Egyptian Practice Elaborate styles signifying status, religious beliefs, wealth |
| Contemporary Textured Hair Heritage Hair as a powerful expression of cultural identity, self-acceptance, and ancestral connection |
| Aspect of Care The enduring principles of hair care from ancient Egypt underscore a continuous legacy of honoring and cultivating textured hair across time and cultures. |

Reflection
The careful uncovering of ancient Egyptian hair care practices unveils not just historical facts, but a living resonance, a quiet echo of the Soul of a Strand across time. For those with textured hair, this knowledge is more than academic; it is a profound affirmation of an enduring heritage . The ingenuity, dedication, and deep regard shown for hair in ancient Kemet, from the meticulous braiding to the crafting of nourishing unguents, speak to a wisdom that continues to shape our present understanding of hair care.
It reminds us that our current practices, often born of resilience and adaptation, are deeply rooted in ancestral traditions that prioritized the health and cultural significance of textured strands. This ongoing dialogue with the past permits us to appreciate the profound lineage of our hair, recognizing it as a vibrant, breathing archive of identity, spirit, and beauty that connects us to a timeless story.

References
- Cox, J.S. 1977. ‘The Construction of an Ancient Egyptian Wig (c.1400 BC) in the British Museum’, Journal of Egyptian Archaeology 63 ❉ 67-70.
- Fletcher, J. 1995. Ancient Egyptian Hair ❉ a study in style, form and function. Unpublished PhD thesis, University of Manchester.
- Fletcher, J. and Salamone, F. 2016. An Ancient Egyptian Wig ❉ Construction and Reconstruction, Internet Archaeology 42.
- Laskowska-Kusztal, E. 1978. ‘Wig-making in Ancient Egypt’, Études et Travaux 10 ❉ 108-115.
- Marshall, A. 2025. The magic and power of hair in ancient Egypt. The Past.
- McCreesh, N. Gize, A.P. and Rosseinsky, M.J. 2011. Ancient Egyptian hair gel ❉ New insight into ancient Egyptian mummification procedures through chemical analysis. Journal of Archaeological Science 38(11) ❉ 3209-3215.
- Riefstahl, E. 1952. ‘An Ancient Egyptian Hairdresser’, Bulletin of the Brooklyn Museum 13(4) ❉ 7-16.
- Smith, G.E. 1912. The Royal Mummies. Le Caire ❉ Imprimerie de L’Institut Français D’archéologie Orientale.
- Tassie, G.J. 2015. Hair-Offerings ❉ An Enigmatic Egyptian Custom. Papers from the Institute of Archaeology 7(1) ❉ 59-71.
- Wilfong, T. 1997. ‘Hairpins’, in J. Malek (ed.), Ancient Egyptian Objects in the Victoria and Albert Museum. London ❉ British Museum Press.