Roots
The very fibers of our being, the delicate yet resilient strands that crown our heads, often whisper tales far older than our personal memory. These whispers, woven into the helix of textured hair , speak of sun-drenched lands, of ancestral hands crafting care, and of the profound connection between identity and the stories our hair carries. We stand at a precipice, a moment in time where the call for textured hair education rings with renewed clarity, yet its echoes stretch back through epochs, touching forgotten rites and challenging generations of imposed silence. This yearning for comprehensive understanding, this burgeoning mandate, did not manifest in a void.
It blossomed from a rich, often turbulent, soil of historical experiences, each layer contributing to the urgent bloom we witness today. To truly grasp the gravity and the beauty of this educational impulse, we must journey through time, allowing the ancient roots of our heritage to guide us.
Echoes from the Source
Consider the earliest forms of textured hair, not merely as a biological marvel, but as a living archive. From the dawn of humanity, the crowned curls and coiled patterns served as powerful identifiers—marking lineage, social status, spiritual connection, and tribal affiliation across countless African societies. The intricate braiding patterns found on ancient Egyptian tomb walls, the elaborate coiffures of the Edo kingdom, or the distinct styles of the Maasai people, all speak of a sophisticated understanding of hair’s plasticity and its communicative power. This was not simply adornment; it was a language, a complex grammar of belonging and expression.
Before the harsh winds of colonization, hair care was intrinsically linked to communal rituals, passed down through generations, embodying an ancestral wisdom that honored the hair’s natural form. These practices, often communal, were foundational to the early education around textured hair, though formal institutions as we know them were far in the future.
The very anatomy of textured hair, with its elliptical follicle, varied curl patterns, and tendency towards dryness due to the winding path of its sebum, necessitated specialized care. Ancient communities understood this intuitively. They developed ingenious methods using natural emollients like shea butter, palm oil, and various plant extracts to maintain scalp health and strand vitality.
These were not random acts; they were precise, accumulated knowledge, forming an unspoken curriculum passed from elder to youth. The lack of this intrinsic understanding, this severance from the source, would become a profound loss in subsequent eras.
The quest for textured hair education today is a direct descendant of ancient traditions and a response to the erasure of indigenous hair knowledge.
The Great Unrooting
The Transatlantic Slave Trade represents a devastating rupture, a cataclysmic event that ripped individuals from their lands, their languages, and their very hair traditions. Enslaved Africans, stripped of their identities and their tools of self-expression, found their hair, once a source of pride and spiritual connection, transformed into a symbol of degradation and a site of control. The forced shaving of heads upon arrival in the ‘New World’ was a brutal attempt to sever ancestral ties and dehumanize, to extinguish the visual markers of their heritage.
Yet, even in the crucible of enslavement, ingenuity and resilience persisted. Hair became a covert canvas for resistance and survival. Enslaved women, denied proper tools or products, adapted, using scavenged animal fats, discarded cloth, and even lint to maintain hair as best they could.
More remarkably, hair became a secret map, a repository of hidden seeds for planting, or even messages for escape, intricately braided into cornrows that mirrored escape routes. This period, therefore, represents a distorted, yet undeniable, form of ‘education’—one born of necessity, of maintaining fragments of self and community against an oppressive tide.
This trauma profoundly impacted the future of textured hair care and understanding. The knowledge, once openly shared and celebrated, became fragmented, guarded, or simply lost under the weight of systemic brutality. The natural care routines, deeply informed by specific botanicals and communal practices, were replaced by what was available or, later, by products and practices designed for European hair textures.
A notable example of hair as a tool of resistance comes from the stories of Benkos Biohó , an enslaved African in 17th-century Colombia, who famously used his wife’s braided hairstyles, or ‘cornrows,’ to hide rice and seeds as they fled plantations to establish palenques, fortified communities of formerly enslaved people. This historical act directly shows how hair, far from being a superficial aspect, served as a crucial, tangible element in the struggle for survival and liberation, embodying a quiet defiance and the preservation of life itself (Friedemann, 1995). The very act of styling hair became a clandestine lesson, a transfer of essential knowledge from one woman to another.
| Era and Setting Pre-Colonial Africa |
| Traditional Care Aspects Communal rituals, specific plant-based oils (e.g. shea butter), intricate cultural styles for identity, spiritual connection. |
| Influencing Factors Deep ancestral knowledge, communal living, abundant natural resources, intrinsic cultural value. |
| Era and Setting Slavery/Post-Emancipation |
| Traditional Care Aspects Scarcity of resources, adaptation with available materials (animal fats, scavenged cloth), covert communication through styles. |
| Influencing Factors Systemic oppression, forced labor, denial of identity, survival as paramount. |
| Era and Setting Early 20th Century African Diaspora |
| Traditional Care Aspects Emergence of 'straightening' products (relaxers, hot combs), shift towards Eurocentric beauty standards. |
| Influencing Factors Desire for social mobility, economic pressures, media influence, internalized racism. |
| Era and Setting The journey of textured hair care reflects a continuum of adaptation, resilience, and reclamation, deeply tied to historical shifts. |
Ritual
From the shadow of enslavement, a different kind of ritual began to emerge within Black communities—one deeply influenced by the harsh realities of a dominant society that valued European aesthetics above all else. This period witnessed the rise of hair straightening as a means of survival, social acceptance, and perceived economic opportunity. The hot comb and chemical relaxer became powerful, if problematic, symbols of assimilation.
Yet, even within these choices, there remained an undeniable dedication to grooming, a continuation of the deeply ingrained practice of hair care as a ritual, even if the tools and the aesthetic goals had shifted dramatically. This historical arc helps clarify the need for textured hair education today.
The Veil of Assimilation
The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw the pervasive influence of Eurocentric beauty standards in the Western world. For Black Americans, this meant a societal pressure to conform, to alter their natural hair textures to approximate the straight hair idealized in popular culture. The “good hair” versus “bad hair” dichotomy, a painful legacy of slavery and racism, became deeply embedded in the collective consciousness.
Early Black entrepreneurs, such as Madam C.J. Walker and Annie Malone, while often providing straightening products, also created significant economic opportunities and community support systems for Black women, laying foundations for self-sufficiency and communal care, though often within the prevailing paradigm of hair alteration.
The ritual of hair straightening, whether with the hot comb or early chemical relaxers, became a deeply personal, often communal, act. Kitchens transformed into salons, where mothers, aunts, and friends gathered, sharing techniques, gossiping, and bonding over the process. This informal “education” disseminated skills and knowledge, albeit often at the expense of hair health and natural texture.
The chemical relaxer, introduced in the early 20th century and gaining widespread popularity throughout the mid-century, offered a more permanent solution, further entrenching the preference for straight hair. This was not a simple aesthetic preference; it was a complex social calculus, a negotiation with societal barriers, and a difficult, often painful, choice born of historical circumstance.
The widespread adoption of hair straightening products reflects a historical negotiation with societal pressures, highlighting the enduring human desire for acceptance and economic stability.
The Winds of Change
The mid-20th century brought the Civil Rights Movement, a profound shift in consciousness that extended to every facet of Black life, including hair. The slogan “Black is Beautiful” was not just a rallying cry; it was a direct challenge to the oppressive beauty standards that had long dictated self-perception. This movement signaled a powerful reclamation of identity, culture, and ancestral pride . The natural hair movement of the 1960s and 70s saw a resurgence of Afros, braids, and other styles that celebrated textured hair in its unadulterated form.
This cultural awakening created a new need for education—one that sought to rediscover, revive, and re-learn how to care for natural, textured hair. Much of this knowledge had been suppressed or fragmented for generations. Elders, whose memories held fragments of pre-relaxer practices, became invaluable sources.
Books on natural hair care began to surface, sharing techniques for washing, conditioning, and styling these varied textures. The initial lack of formal education in mainstream cosmetology schools meant that this learning often happened in grassroots communities, through self-education, and within newly formed spaces dedicated to natural hair.
The emergence of Black-owned salons specializing in natural hair care, such as those that championed the Afro during its height, represents a crucial development. These establishments became more than just places for styling; they were cultural hubs, spaces where heritage was affirmed , where knowledge about different curl patterns and the unique requirements of textured hair was shared freely. They stood as quiet acts of defiance against the prevailing norm, paving the way for a future where textured hair education would not be an exception but a fundamental expectation.
- Afro Sheen ❉ An early product line that gained popularity during the natural hair movement of the 1960s and 70s, supporting the maintenance of Afros and other natural styles.
- Hair Greases ❉ Historically used to add shine and purportedly “tame” hair, often with a petroleum jelly base, reflecting a desire for perceived neatness within restrictive beauty norms.
- Herbal Infusions ❉ Drawing from ancestral traditions, certain communities began experimenting with herbal rinses and oils, a slow return to botanical wisdom for scalp and hair health.
Relay
The turn of the 21st century brought with it an unprecedented acceleration of the natural hair movement, fueled by digital connectivity and a globalized exchange of ideas. This new wave, distinct from its 20th-century predecessor, embraced a broader spectrum of textured hair, celebrating coily, curly, and wavy patterns alike. Yet, as more individuals returned to their natural textures, a glaring gap in formal education became starkly apparent, directly influencing the demand for a mandate. This era of information access, ironically, highlighted the widespread lack of structured, authoritative knowledge within professional cosmetology.
The Digital Dawn and Educational Gaps
The advent of the internet and social media platforms like YouTube and Instagram catalyzed a mass awakening. Suddenly, individuals across the diaspora could connect, share experiences, and learn from one another. Online communities blossomed, offering a democratic space for knowledge exchange.
Tutorials, product reviews, and personal hair journeys became readily available, creating a vibrant, self-sustaining ecosystem of informal education. This digital revolution was profoundly empowering, allowing individuals to bypass traditional gatekeepers and explore their hair heritage on their own terms.
Despite this groundswell of informal learning, a significant void persisted in formal institutions. Cosmetology schools, for decades, had largely omitted comprehensive textured hair education from their curricula. Their training often focused predominantly on straight hair techniques, leaving graduates ill-equipped to serve a diverse clientele.
This created a dual reality ❉ a thriving online community of textured hair enthusiasts sharing knowledge, alongside a professional industry often unable to provide adequate, skilled care for a substantial portion of the population. This disconnect became a powerful catalyst for change.
The Push for Professionalization
The growing frustration among consumers and a rising awareness among forward-thinking professionals led to a persistent call for a mandate in textured hair education. Advocates argued that the omission was not merely an oversight; it represented a systemic bias, implicitly devaluing textured hair and the communities who wore it. The implications were practical ❉ individuals with textured hair struggled to find stylists who understood their hair’s unique needs, leading to damage, frustration, and a feeling of being underserved. The implications were also cultural ❉ the continued sidelining of textured hair education reinforced historical narratives of inferiority.
A pivotal development in this movement was the increased legislative action across various states in the United States. For example, by 2020, states like California had passed the CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair), which prohibits discrimination based on hair texture or protective hairstyles. While directly related to anti-discrimination, the CROWN Act’s passage indirectly highlighted the broader societal acceptance and growing recognition of textured hair, thereby strengthening the argument for educational mandates within professional licensing bodies. This legislative recognition of hair as an integral part of racial and cultural identity underscored the necessity for stylists to possess the knowledge and skills to respectfully work with all hair types.
Industry leaders, educators, and organizations dedicated to textured hair began to actively lobby cosmetology boards and educational institutions. They presented compelling cases, backed by demographic data and consumer demand, demonstrating the economic and ethical imperatives of inclusive education. They pointed to the rising number of individuals choosing to wear their hair naturally, and the corresponding need for professionals who could expertly cut, style, and care for these unique textures. This collective advocacy sought to transform informal knowledge into standardized, accessible, and mandatory training.
The Mandate Takes Shape
The mandate for textured hair education has not been a singular, sudden event, but rather a gradual accumulation of pressures and legislative successes. It manifests in various forms ❉ some states now require specific hours of textured hair training for cosmetology licensure; others incorporate textured hair into practical examinations. This evolution reflects a growing understanding that proficiency in textured hair care is not an niche skill, but a fundamental competency for any modern hair professional.
The long-term impact of these mandates is truly transformative. For the first time, countless cosmetology students are receiving formal, structured training in understanding curl patterns, porosity, elasticity, and the specific needs of various textured hair types. This means future generations of stylists will emerge better equipped to serve a diverse clientele, fostering a more inclusive and respectful beauty industry. Beyond the technical skills, this education also carries a deeper cultural significance.
It validates the beauty of textured hair, honoring the ancestral lineages it represents, and ensuring that future care rituals are grounded in both scientific understanding and profound cultural respect. It is a powerful step towards dismantling the legacies of discrimination and celebrating the innate splendor of every strand.
| Period Pre-1900s |
| Dominant Educational Modality Oral traditions, communal sharing, familial knowledge transfer. |
| Key Influences on Mandate Societal oppression, lack of formal recognition, fragmentation of ancestral practices. |
| Period 1900s-1980s |
| Dominant Educational Modality Informal salon training, product-driven instruction, limited formal curriculum. |
| Key Influences on Mandate Civil Rights Movement, early natural hair movements, growing awareness of identity. |
| Period 1990s-Present |
| Dominant Educational Modality Digital self-education, specialized workshops, advocacy for legislative changes. |
| Key Influences on Mandate Internet connectivity, social media, anti-discrimination laws (CROWN Act), consumer demand. |
| Period The journey from informal knowledge to mandated education for textured hair mirrors a broader societal shift towards equity and cultural recognition. |
- Cosmetology Boards ❉ Regulatory bodies in each state that license hair professionals and often determine curriculum requirements for beauty schools, becoming key targets for advocacy.
- CROWN Act ❉ Legislation primarily designed to prevent hair discrimination in workplaces and schools, yet it significantly elevated public discourse around textured hair, indirectly supporting educational mandates.
- Online Hair Communities ❉ Digital spaces that serve as informal archives of textured hair knowledge, sharing personal experiences, and accelerating the demand for professional understanding.
Reflection
The journey for a mandate in textured hair education is a profound testament to the enduring power of heritage. It is a story not simply of policy shifts or educational reforms, but of a deep, collective remembering. Each historical twist, from the venerated practices of ancient Africa to the brutal disruptions of the Transatlantic Slave Trade, from the pressures of assimilation to the triumphs of reclamation through movements for Black pride, has shaped the current landscape. The textured strand, once a silent witness to struggle, now speaks volumes, demanding its rightful place in our collective understanding and professional practice.
This mandate is more than a legal requirement; it is a spiritual reclamation. It acknowledges that hair is not merely keratin and bonds, but a living connection to ancestry, identity, and resilience. It affirms the beauty and complexity inherent in every curl, coil, and wave.
As we move forward, this commitment to comprehensive textured hair education serves as a living archive, ensuring that the wisdom of generations past informs the skillful hands of the present and future. It is a promise to honor the Soul of a Strand, allowing it to unfurl in its full, unburdened splendor, a radiant symbol of heritage unbound.
References
- Friedemann, Nina S. de. (1995). La saga del negro Benkos Biohó. Panamericana Editorial.
- hooks, bell. (1995). Art on My Mind ❉ Visual Politics. The New Press.
- Patton, Tracey Owens. (2006). African-American Hair ❉ An Exploration of Historical Traumatic Experiences and Identity. Journal of Counseling Psychology, 53(2), 226-239.
- Tharps, Lori L. & Byrd, Ayana D. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- Mercer, Kobena. (1994). Welcome to the Jungle ❉ New Positions in Black Cultural Studies. Routledge.
- White, Deborah Gray. (1985). Ar’n’t I a Woman? ❉ Female Slaves in the Plantation South. W. W. Norton & Company.
- Cochran, Kym. (2012). Creating the African American Museum ❉ A History of Museums and Their Role in the Struggle for Social Justice. University of Illinois Press.