What historical events impacted textured hair views in the diaspora?

Roots

Across sun-drenched savannas and through the shadowed passages of forgotten vessels, a story pulses with life, etched not in parchment but in the very coils and curves of hair. This is an invitation to listen closely to the whispers of ancestral strands, to understand how the world’s tides shifted their meaning, yet could never sever their deep connection to heritage. Our exploration unearths the profound ways historical currents shaped perceptions of textured hair within the diaspora, revealing a chronicle of identity, resilience, and reclaiming. For those whose lineage flows through kinky coils or gentle waves, this tale is part of your own living archive, a reaffirmation of the power held within every fiber.

Hair Anatomy and Ancestral Wisdom

The distinct morphology of textured hair, often categorized by its tight curls or zig-zag patterns, holds a unique place in biological science and cultural narratives. Unlike straight hair, the elliptical cross-section of a textured hair strand, along with its specific growth patterns, contributes to its remarkable volume, strength, and vulnerability to dryness. Yet, for countless generations, this biology was not a weakness but a canvas for expression, a living emblem of community and status. In pre-colonial African societies, the very architecture of hair conveyed profound messages.

Hairstyles, far from being mere adornments, communicated an individual’s Geographic Origin, Marital Status, Age, Ethnic Identity, Religion, Wealth, and even their rank within society. This deep understanding of hair, its structure, and its potential, was woven into the fabric of daily life and communal ceremony.

Textured hair, in its inherent biological design, has always been a powerful vessel for cultural expression and identity across African societies.

The Changing Lexicon of Textured Hair

The language used to describe textured hair has shifted dramatically over centuries, reflecting societal biases and evolving understandings. Before forced displacement, descriptions honored hair’s specific attributes and its role in communal life. For example, the Yoruba people of Nigeria used terms like Kolese or Irun Didi for cornrows, words that carry the weight of tradition and shared experience. These terms were not neutral; they were imbued with reverence for the artistry and social importance of hair practices.

With the advent of the transatlantic slave trade, a dark shift occurred. European colonizers frequently referred to African hair with derogatory terms, such as “wool,” which unfortunately contributed to negative perceptions. This shift in language was a deliberate act of dehumanization, aimed at stripping enslaved Africans of their heritage and personhood. The very words used to describe hair became tools of oppression, severing connections to ancestral pride.

• Kolese/Irun Didi ❉ Traditional Yoruba terms for cornrows, signifying deep cultural roots and ancestral practices.
• Suku ❉ A common braided style among the Fulani people, often influencing cornrow designs in the diaspora.
• Dreadlocks ❉ A term with debated origins, some historians believe it arose from derogatory European descriptions of tightly coiled hair as “dreadful.”

Early Erasures and Resurfacing of Identity

One of the earliest and most impactful events shaping textured hair views in the diaspora was the transatlantic slave trade. The act of shaving the heads of enslaved Africans upon capture and transport was a deliberate, violent effort to strip them of their identity and cultural connections. Hair had served as a primary form of communication and a symbol of status in their homelands.

Without these visible markers, and denied access to traditional tools and oils, enslaved individuals found their hair becoming matted and tangled, often hidden under scarves. This enforced condition further cemented a negative perception of natural Black hair, a belief unfortunately perpetuated for generations.

However, even within this brutal system, expressions of heritage persisted. Newly arrived enslaved individuals continued certain African hair practices, such as plaits and headwraps, as a quiet reaffirmation of their humanity. In certain instances, cornrows became a covert means of communication, used to share escape routes or hide seeds for sustenance during attempts at liberation. This deep heritage, though suppressed, never fully disappeared, forming a resilient undercurrent beneath the surface of imposed Eurocentric beauty standards.

Ritual

The journey of textured hair through the diaspora is a testament to the enduring power of ritual, an unbroken chain linking ancient practices to contemporary expressions of self. Historical events did not simply redefine how textured hair was seen; they reshaped the very acts of care and styling, forcing adaptation while simultaneously preserving the essence of heritage. From communal braiding circles to the solitary application of straightening agents, each act tells a story of adaptation, defiance, and continuous cultural evolution.

The Art of Traditional Styling and Its Preservation

In pre-colonial Africa, hair styling was a meticulous art, demanding hours or even days to complete. It involved washing, combing, oiling, braiding, or twisting, often adorned with cloth, beads, or shells. This elaborate process was more than an aesthetic pursuit; it was a deeply social occasion, a cherished opportunity for family and friends to bond, a tradition that continues to echo in many communities today. This legacy of intricate artistry and communal care traveled with enslaved Africans, even as circumstances made its practice immensely challenging.

In the Americas, despite the scarcity of traditional tools and the degradation of their hair, enslaved women found ways to maintain certain practices. Plaits and headwraps, initially worn out of necessity, transformed into symbols of identity and resistance. The Tignon Law in Louisiana, for example, forced Black and biracial women to cover their hair, yet even this oppressive measure paradoxically underscored the inherent power and perceived threat of their untamed beauty.

The practice of hair styling in African communities, historically a communal art, became a clandestine act of cultural preservation within the confines of enslavement.

The Chemical Shift and Its Historical Context

The post-emancipation era introduced a different set of pressures on textured hair. As Black individuals sought to integrate into Eurocentric societies and pursue economic opportunities, conforming to prevailing beauty standards became a survival strategy. This era saw the rise of hair straightening methods, from hot combs in the late 1800s to chemical relaxers in the early 20th century. Garrett Augustus Morgan is credited with creating the first chemical relaxer in 1909, an accidental discovery while working on a solution to reduce friction in sewing machines.

His invention, later marketed by his G.A. Morgan Hair Refining Company, provided a means for Black individuals to achieve a straighter hair texture. Companies began explicitly targeting Black women with advertisements promoting “straight,” “smooth,” and “silky” hair, further perpetuating negative perceptions of naturally curly hair. This era marked a significant divergence from traditional hair practices, driven by external pressures to assimilate.

The cultural impact of these products was immense. Straightened hair became associated with professionalism and respectability, offering perceived advantages in a society that devalued African features. A 2023 survey revealed that 61% of Black respondents used chemical straighteners because they “felt more beautiful with straight hair.” This statistic illuminates the deep-seated psychological impact of historical beauty standards.

Relay

The story of textured hair in the diaspora does not end with the enduring echoes of historical oppression; it continues as a dynamic relay, a constant reassertion of heritage and identity against ever-shifting backdrops. This section explores how societal movements and legal battles have challenged and redefined perceptions, pushing toward a future where textured hair is celebrated for its inherent beauty and cultural significance.

The “Black is Beautiful” Movement and Natural Hair

The mid-1960s saw a powerful shift in the narrative surrounding Black hair in the United States, deeply influenced by the Civil Rights and Black Power movements. The Afro, a style that embraced the natural coiled texture, emerged as a potent symbol of Black Pride and activism. This was more than a hairstyle; it was a political statement, a rejection of Eurocentric beauty ideals that had long devalued natural Black features. Icons such as Angela Davis and members of the Black Panther Party popularized the Afro as an emblem of resistance and solidarity with African roots.

For the first time in centuries, hair was openly and widely celebrated as a direct connection to African heritage, serving as a visual marker of identity and a challenge to white supremacy. Even individuals with naturally straighter hair sometimes altered their hair to achieve the desired afro texture, signifying political alignment.

This period also saw the resurgence of traditional styles like Cornrows and braids as expressions of cultural affirmation. The impact of the “Black is Beautiful” movement was widespread, influencing not only personal styling choices but also fashion and broader cultural trends. It was a collective awakening, pushing communities to look inward and find beauty in their authentic selves.

Respectability Politics and Persistent Discrimination

Despite the strides made during the “Black is Beautiful” era, the politics of respectability continued to cast a long shadow over textured hair. Respectability politics, often internalized, compelled Black individuals to conform to white societal norms in appearance and behavior to gain acceptance and opportunities. This meant that even after the Civil Rights movement, many Black women continued to feel compelled to straighten their hair for job interviews or professional settings, believing it was a requirement to be taken seriously.

Research highlights this persistent pressure ❉ a 2020 study by Michigan State University and Duke University found that Black women with natural hairstyles were less likely to receive job interviews than white women or Black women with straightened hair. The study further observed that hairstyles like afros, twists, or braids were often perceived as “less professional.”

The lingering effects of respectability politics continue to influence hair choices, revealing a historical burden that extends into contemporary professional and social spheres.

This discrimination is not confined to the workplace; it extends to educational settings, with Black students often facing disciplinary action or being sent home due to their hairstyles. Nearly 90% of Black youth report experiencing hair discrimination by age 12, with over half of Black mothers stating their daughters faced such discrimination as early as five years old. (EdTrust, cited in Rep.

Watson Coleman, Senator Booker, 2025). This data underscores the systemic nature of the problem, reflecting historical biases that still manifest in everyday experiences.

The CROWN Act and a Path Forward

In response to ongoing hair discrimination, legislative efforts like the CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair) have emerged as crucial mechanisms for protection. Introduced in 2019, the CROWN Act seeks to prohibit discrimination based on natural hair texture and protective hairstyles, including locs, cornrows, braids, Bantu knots, and Afros. California was the first state to pass such a law, and as of September 2024, 27 states, along with Washington, D.C. have enacted CROWN laws.

1. Legal Affirmation ❉ The CROWN Act legally affirms the right to wear natural and protective hairstyles, challenging historical biases in workplaces and schools.
2. Economic Impact ❉ By addressing discrimination, the Act aims to remove barriers to educational and economic opportunities for Black individuals.
3. Community Empowerment ❉ This legislation reflects a broader societal movement toward self-acceptance and cultural celebration, building upon the “Black is Beautiful” ethos.

Despite this progress, a federal version of the CROWN Act has faced obstacles, though efforts to pass it continue. The need for such legislation remains evident in the persistent disparities ❉ Black women’s hair is 2.5 times more likely to be perceived as unprofessional, and approximately two-thirds of Black women change their hair for job interviews. These figures highlight the enduring legacy of historical events on contemporary views of textured hair, even as legal and social movements push for a future rooted in authentic self-expression and heritage.

Reflection

The journey through the historical landscape of textured hair views in the diaspora reveals a narrative of profound depth, written in the very fibers that spring from our scalps. It is a chronicle that speaks to the enduring power of heritage, a living testament to how past struggles and triumphs continue to shape our present relationship with our coils and curls. Each strand holds the memory of ancient practices, the echoes of forced conformity, and the vibrant resurgence of cultural pride. Roothea’s “Soul of a Strand” is an invitation to connect with this legacy, to understand that the hair we wear is not simply a biological marvel but a sacred part of ourselves, intertwined with ancestral wisdom and communal identity.

It is a continuous conversation between past and present, a reminder that true beauty lies in the acceptance of our authentic selves, honoring the lineage that flows through every unique twist and turn. The path forward involves not just acknowledging this history, but actively engaging with it, celebrating the inherent power and artistry that has always been, and will forever be, a part of our textured hair heritage.