What historical discrimination did the CROWN Act address?

Roots

To truly grasp the enduring spirit of the CROWN Act, one must first feel the weight of history that strands of textured hair have carried through generations. It is not a story of recent invention, but a profound continuation of a struggle etched into the very helix of ancestral memory. For too long, the inherent beauty of coils, curls, and waves, which speak volumes of sun-drenched lands and ancient lineages, was deemed an aberration in spaces where conformity to a singular, often Eurocentric, ideal was demanded. This narrative of exclusion, deeply rooted in systems of oppression, sought to sever the sacred connection between individuals and their birthright, their heritage woven into every strand.

The discrimination addressed by the CROWN Act finds its genesis in a history where Black bodies and their natural expressions were systematically devalued. Following the transatlantic slave trade, the rich and varied hair traditions of African peoples, once markers of tribal identity, social status, and spiritual connection, were violently stripped away or forced into concealment. Enslavement imposed a cruel dichotomy ❉ hair that was “neat” or “tamed” by European standards was seen as acceptable, while hair that defied these norms became a target for scorn, a symbol of perceived “otherness.” This forced assimilation was not merely about appearance; it was a deliberate assault on identity, a means to control and dehumanize.

The Language of Coils and the Echo of Erasure

Consider the language itself, how terms like “good hair” and “bad hair” became insidious tools of division within communities, a direct consequence of this historical conditioning. The very classification systems, often unscientific and steeped in bias, served to perpetuate a hierarchy. For instance, the infamous “paper bag test” and other discriminatory practices, while not directly about hair, illustrate a broader societal obsession with proximity to whiteness that extended to physical attributes, including hair texture. The texture of hair, a biological gift, became a social burden, dictating access to education, employment, and dignity.

The CROWN Act responds to centuries of societal conditioning that deemed natural textured hair unprofessional or unkempt, a direct affront to ancestral identity.

In the early 20th century, as Black communities sought advancement amidst pervasive segregation, the pressure to conform intensified. Straightened hair, achieved through painful hot combs and caustic chemical relaxers, became a survival mechanism for many seeking entry into white-dominated professional and academic spheres. This was not a choice born of preference alone, but often a grim calculation for economic survival and social acceptance. The physical toll of these practices, from scalp burns to hair loss, mirrors the psychological toll of denying one’s authentic self.

The historical precedent of discrimination against textured hair is not merely anecdotal; it is a documented reality. A study by Dove (2019) found that Black women are 80% More Likely to change their natural hair to meet workplace expectations. This stark statistic underscores the pervasive nature of this historical bias, a bias that the CROWN Act seeks to dismantle.

Ancestral Wisdom and Modern Barriers

Across the African diaspora, hair has always held profound cultural weight. It is a canvas for storytelling, a medium for spiritual connection, and a testament to artistic expression. Styles like intricate cornrows, robust locs, and elaborate braids were not simply aesthetic choices; they carried messages, marked rites of passage, and preserved ancestral knowledge.

Yet, these very expressions became grounds for dismissal from jobs, suspension from schools, and public humiliation. The historical discrimination is a story of a deep-seated fear of Black self-expression, a fear that saw freedom in a coil and power in a loc.

The legacy of this discrimination is not confined to the past. It lives in the whispered warnings given to young Black professionals before job interviews, in the disciplinary actions taken against children for their braided styles, and in the unspoken biases that still shape perceptions of professionalism. The CROWN Act, therefore, does not simply address a legal loophole; it addresses a historical wrong, seeking to reclaim the right to self-definition for those whose heritage has been systematically undervalued.

Ritual

Stepping from the foundational understanding of textured hair’s place in history, we turn now to the living traditions that shape its care and presentation. The journey of hair, from its elemental biology to its vibrant expression, is a continuous ritual, a dance between ancestral wisdom and contemporary practice. The CROWN Act enters this sacred space not as a decree, but as a recognition, a legal affirmation of the inherent worth and professionalism of styles that have long been cornerstones of Black and mixed-race heritage. It is a quiet acknowledgment that the ways we adorn our coils, the methods we use to preserve their strength, are not mere trends but extensions of a profound lineage.

Styles as Historical Archives

Consider the protective styles that have been passed down through generations. These are not simply aesthetic choices; they are acts of preservation, methods to safeguard the hair from environmental stressors, and a way to honor ancestral ingenuity. The historical discrimination often targeted these very styles, viewing them as “unprofessional” or “distracting.”

• Braids ❉ Ancient art forms, serving as markers of identity, marital status, or tribal affiliation in many African cultures. Their intricate patterns tell stories.
• Locs ❉ A symbol of spiritual devotion, resistance, and natural beauty across diverse cultures, from ancient Egypt to Rastafarianism. They embody a journey of growth and self-acceptance.
• Twists ❉ A versatile styling technique, often used for protective purposes and to define natural curl patterns, with roots in various African hair practices.

These styles, born of necessity and creativity, became points of contention in modern society. School dress codes, for example, often disproportionately affected Black students by banning styles like locs or braids, leading to suspensions and missed educational opportunities. In 2018, a Texas high school student, DeAndre Arnold, faced suspension and was told he couldn’t walk at graduation unless he cut his locs, which violated the school’s hair length policy for boys.

This incident, which garnered national attention, highlighted the ongoing impact of such discriminatory policies on young Black individuals, forcing them to choose between their education and their cultural identity. This personal story of DeAndre Arnold became a powerful illustration of the discrimination the CROWN Act seeks to eliminate.

The CROWN Act provides legal protection for ancestral hair practices, validating styles once deemed unacceptable in professional and academic settings.

The Tools of Tradition and Transformation

The tools used in hair care also carry a story. From the bone combs of ancient Africa to the specialized picks and brushes of today, each instrument speaks to an evolving understanding of textured hair’s unique needs. The very act of hair care, the ritual of detangling, cleansing, and styling, has been a communal practice, a bonding experience passed from elder to youth. Yet, this tender thread of connection was often met with societal disapproval.

The historical discrimination against textured hair is not simply about what one wears on their head; it is about the right to self-determination, the right to present oneself authentically without fear of reprisal. The CROWN Act recognizes that hair is not merely an accessory; it is an extension of identity, a visual declaration of heritage. It is a legal affirmation of the value in allowing individuals to honor their natural hair, freeing them from the historical burden of conforming to an imposed aesthetic. This act protects the ritual of self-care, the artistry of styling, and the quiet dignity of simply being.

Relay

How does the CROWN Act, a contemporary legislative response, truly resonate with the deep ancestral wisdom embedded in textured hair traditions, and what complexities does it unravel about the very nature of identity and belonging? To answer this, we must delve beyond the surface, recognizing that the act is a powerful relay, transmitting the enduring spirit of heritage through legal channels, challenging centuries of deeply ingrained biases. It is a moment where the echoes of the past meet the aspirations of the present, shaping a future where the helix of identity can unwind without constraint.

The Unbound Helix ❉ Identity, Law, and Liberation

The discrimination against textured hair is not a trivial matter of aesthetics; it is a systemic barrier that has denied educational and economic opportunities, inflicted psychological harm, and perpetuated racial inequality. This form of discrimination, often subtle yet pervasive, operates on the premise that natural Black hair is inherently “unprofessional” or “unsuitable” for certain environments. This perception is a direct legacy of slavery and post-emancipation efforts to strip Black individuals of their cultural markers and force assimilation into Eurocentric norms. The CROWN Act, which stands for “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” directly confronts this historical legacy by making discrimination based on hair texture or protective styles illegal.

The very structure of textured hair, with its unique curl patterns and density, requires specific care and styling methods that often differ from those for straight hair. These methods have evolved over millennia, informed by climate, available resources, and cultural practices. For instance, traditional African societies utilized various plant-based oils, butters, and herbs—such as shea butter, palm oil, and various plant extracts—not only for their nourishing properties but also for their symbolic value.

These ingredients were part of a holistic approach to well-being, where hair health was intertwined with spiritual and community health. When these natural expressions are deemed unacceptable in modern institutions, it creates a profound disconnect from ancestral practices and a pressure to chemically alter hair, often with detrimental health consequences.

Psychological Weight of Hair Conformity?

The psychological impact of hair discrimination is substantial. Individuals facing such biases often report feelings of self-consciousness, anxiety, and a diminished sense of belonging. The constant pressure to conform can lead to chronic stress, affecting mental and emotional well-being. A study published in the journal Social Psychological and Personality Science (Tate, 2013) found that Black women who experience hair discrimination report higher levels of anxiety and lower self-esteem compared to those who do not.

This research illuminates the deep personal toll exacted by policies and practices that undermine one’s inherent identity. The CROWN Act offers a shield against this emotional burden, validating personal expression.

Beyond individual experiences, hair discrimination also perpetuates broader societal inequities. When individuals are denied opportunities based on their hair, it limits diversity in workplaces and educational institutions, reinforcing a narrow definition of professionalism that excludes a significant portion of the population. The act is not merely about hair; it is about equity, inclusion, and the fundamental right to exist authentically in public spaces. It acknowledges that appearance-based discrimination, when tied to racial and cultural markers, functions as a form of racial discrimination.

A Collective Reclaiming of Heritage

The CROWN Act, in its essence, facilitates a collective reclaiming of heritage. It provides legal recourse for individuals who have been marginalized for their natural hair, allowing them to challenge discriminatory practices in courts and human rights commissions. This legislative action builds upon decades of advocacy by civil rights organizations and hair justice movements that have consistently highlighted the racial implications of hair discrimination. It is a testament to the persistent voice of communities who have long asserted their right to self-expression.

The CROWN Act functions as a legal safeguard, allowing individuals to openly honor their hair heritage without fear of professional or academic reprisal.

This legislation also invites a deeper societal introspection on beauty standards and professionalism. It prompts institutions to reconsider their definitions, pushing for a more expansive and inclusive understanding of what it means to be “professional” or “presentable.” This cultural shift, propelled by legal mandate, helps to dismantle the insidious notion that Black hair is somehow less acceptable than other hair types. It is a vital step in ensuring that the journey of textured hair, from its ancient roots to its modern expressions, can continue unhindered, a vibrant testament to resilience and beauty. The CROWN Act does not merely protect hair; it protects identity, history, and the freedom to express one’s heritage openly.

Reflection

The journey through the historical discrimination addressed by the CROWN Act is a contemplation on the enduring power of heritage. Each coil, each strand, holds not just genetic information, but generations of stories, struggles, and triumphs. The legislative shield that is the CROWN Act does not simply offer legal protection; it offers a profound affirmation of identity, a recognition that the outward expression of our inner selves, particularly through hair, is a fundamental human right. It acknowledges that the beauty standards of the past, often imposed and exclusionary, inflicted real harm, severing connections to ancestral ways and fostering a sense of otherness.

As Roothea’s ‘Soul of a Strand’ ethos reminds us, textured hair is a living, breathing archive. The CROWN Act, then, becomes a vital entry in this archive, marking a moment where societal consciousness begins to align with the deep wisdom of our bodies and our lineage. It is a call to remember that care extends beyond product application; it encompasses the societal structures that either allow or inhibit our ability to truly flourish.

The path forward involves not only legal protections but also a continuous cultivation of respect, understanding, and reverence for the diverse expressions of hair that speak to the richness of humanity. In embracing the spirit of the CROWN Act, we collectively participate in a legacy of liberation, ensuring that every strand, in its natural glory, can stand tall, unbound, and truly celebrated.

References

• Dove. (2019). The CROWN Research Study ❉ Hair Discrimination in the Workplace .
• Tate, S. (2013). Black women’s hair and identity ❉ Trajectories of self-discovery. Routledge.
• Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. L. (2001). Hair story ❉ Untangling the roots of Black hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Banks, I. (2000). Hair matters ❉ Beauty, power, and Black women’s consciousness. New York University Press.
• Mercer, K. (1994). Welcome to the jungle ❉ New positions in Black cultural studies. Routledge.
• White, S. (2017). Hair and freedom ❉ The cultural and political meanings of African American hair. University of Illinois Press.
• Hall, J. (2015). The natural hair handbook ❉ A guide to growing and maintaining natural hair. CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform.