Roots
The very strands that crown our heads, particularly those with texture, hold within their coils and kinks a profound library, a living archive of generations past. They whisper tales of survival, of resistance, and of a beauty often challenged, yet perpetually triumphant. When we look to the historical cleansing ingredients that influence today’s textured hair products, we are not merely examining chemistry; we are unearthing an ancestral dialogue, a conversation that spans continents and centuries.
This journey into the heart of cleansing for textured hair begins not with a product on a shelf, but with the earth itself, with the wisdom passed down through hands that understood the delicate balance of scalp and strand, long before laboratories came into being. It is a pilgrimage to the source, where the understanding of our hair’s elemental biology first intertwined with the nurturing practices of our forebears.
Hair Anatomy and Physiology Specific to Textured Hair
The intrinsic nature of textured hair, with its characteristic elliptical cross-section and varied curl patterns, sets it apart, demanding a thoughtful approach to cleansing. Unlike straight hair, the tight bends and twists along each strand of textured hair create natural points of fragility, making it more susceptible to breakage if handled improperly. The cuticle layers, those protective scales that lie flat on straight hair, tend to be more lifted or open on textured strands, allowing moisture to escape more readily and making the hair prone to dryness. This inherent thirst has historically guided cleansing practices, leading our ancestors to seek out ingredients that purified without stripping, that respected the hair’s need for moisture rather than depleting it.
Furthermore, the sebaceous glands on the scalp produce natural oils, or sebum, which serve as a protective barrier and moisturizer. However, due to the helical path textured hair takes from the follicle, this sebum often struggles to travel down the entire length of the strand, leaving the ends particularly vulnerable to dryness. Ancestral cleansers, therefore, were often chosen not only for their ability to lift away impurities but also for their conditioning properties, or for their role in preparing the hair for subsequent oiling and moisturizing rituals. This deep, intuitive understanding of hair’s physical characteristics was the initial framework upon which effective cleansing traditions were built, a practical science born of necessity and observation.
Textured Hair Classification Systems and Their Heritage Implications
The contemporary classification systems for textured hair—those numerical and lettered charts we see today—while useful for modern product formulation, rarely capture the full spectrum of ancestral hair types or the cultural significance woven into each strand. In pre-colonial African societies, for example, hair texture and style often served as markers of tribal affiliation, social status, marital standing, or spiritual devotion. The way one’s hair was cleansed, prepared, and adorned was part of a communal identification system, a visual language understood across generations. Cleansing rituals were not simply about hygiene; they were about preserving the integrity of a style that spoke volumes about identity and lineage.
The heritage implications extend to how different textures respond to various cleansing agents. A tightly coiled hair type, more susceptible to shrinkage and tangling when wet, might benefit from a cleansing process that minimizes manipulation, perhaps a co-wash or a clay wash that offers slip. Looser curl patterns, while still needing moisture, might tolerate a stronger cleansing action. Ancestral communities, without formal classification charts, understood these subtle differences through lived experience and intergenerational teaching.
They knew which plants created the most slip for detangling, which clays offered the gentlest yet thorough cleanse, and which infused water preparations best suited varying densities and textures. This informal, yet deeply effective, system of knowledge informed the selection and application of historical cleansing ingredients.
What Traditional Cleansing Elements Laid the Foundation for Modern Hair Care?
The lexicon of textured hair, beyond its modern scientific terms, holds a rich store of ancestral wisdom concerning cleansing. Words like “koil,” “kink,” “curl,” and “wave” tell us about the hair’s shape, but the traditional names for plant-based cleansers and their applications speak to a practical, intuitive chemistry. Many indigenous communities across Africa, the Americas, and Asia recognized the cleansing properties of saponin-rich plants, a knowledge that forms a significant part of the heritage of hair care. These natural foaming agents, derived from roots, bark, or fruits, offered a gentle yet effective wash, often leaving the hair soft and manageable.
Consider the widespread use of certain plants:
- Yucca Root ❉ Native American tribes, understanding the plant’s inherent saponins, crushed this root to create a natural lather, a cleansing agent that purified hair without harshness, leaving strands clean and nourished.
- Soapwort (Saponaria Officinalis) ❉ Historically employed in Europe and parts of the Mediterranean, this plant’s roots produced a gentle, soapy foam, perfect for delicate textiles and, indeed, for hair that required a tender touch.
- Shikakai (Acacia Concinna) ❉ A cornerstone of Ayurvedic hair care, Shikakai pods yield a natural cleanser that is known for its mild action, leaving hair soft and providing a low-lather experience, quite unlike modern high-foaming shampoos.
These terms, tied to specific plants and their uses, are not just labels; they are remnants of a sophisticated, localized science that understood the unique needs of textured hair and leveraged the environment to meet them.
Hair Growth Cycles and Influencing Factors
The journey of a hair strand, from its active growth phase (anagen) to its resting (telogen) and shedding (exogen) phases, is a continuous cycle. Historical cleansing practices, while perhaps not framed in these precise scientific terms, intrinsically supported healthy growth by focusing on scalp health. A clean, balanced scalp provides the optimal environment for follicles to thrive, and ancestral cleansing ingredients often served this purpose.
Factors such as nutrition, climate, and overall well-being significantly impact hair growth, and our ancestors intuitively understood these connections. Cleansers were often prepared with ingredients that not only purified but also delivered vital nutrients or had soothing properties for the scalp, directly influencing the health of emerging strands. For instance, the use of various clays in African traditions, beyond their cleansing ability, offered minerals that supported skin health.
The arid climates of some regions necessitated gentler, more conditioning washes, while humid environments might have prompted the use of ingredients with stronger oil-absorbing qualities. The historical context of these cleansing choices reveals a deep awareness of ecological interplay and human vitality, a holistic approach that modern science increasingly validates.
| Aspect of Hair Care Cleansing Action |
| Ancestral Understanding (Heritage) Saponins from plants like Yucca or Black Soap gently lifted impurities, preserving natural oils. |
| Contemporary Scientific Perspective Surfactants and chelating agents remove dirt and product buildup while modern formulations aim for sulfate-free, moisturizing cleansers. |
| Aspect of Hair Care Moisture Retention |
| Ancestral Understanding (Heritage) Emphasis on mild washes, followed by extensive oiling and conditioning with butters and plant extracts. |
| Contemporary Scientific Perspective Recognition of textured hair's propensity for dryness; products focus on humectants, emollients, and occlusives to seal in hydration. |
| Aspect of Hair Care Scalp Health |
| Ancestral Understanding (Heritage) Use of specific clays, herbs, and infusions for their soothing, anti-inflammatory, and nourishing properties. |
| Contemporary Scientific Perspective Scientific validation of ingredients with antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and sebum-regulating effects to promote a healthy scalp microbiome. |
| Aspect of Hair Care The enduring wisdom of ancestral cleansing practices continues to inform and shape our scientific understanding of textured hair’s unique requirements. |
Ritual
The act of cleansing textured hair transcends mere hygiene; it is a sacred overture to a larger symphony of care, a preparatory ritual that has, through the ages, influenced and been influenced by the art and science of styling. From the intricate braids of ancient African kingdoms to the sculpted coils of contemporary expression, cleansing has always held a foundational place, shaping the canvas upon which cultural identity and personal stories are drawn. This profound connection between cleansing ingredients and styling traditions is a central thread in the tapestry of textured hair heritage.
Protective Styling Ancestry and Cleansing Rituals
Protective styles—cornrows, braids, twists, and locs—are not merely aesthetic choices; they are a legacy of ingenuity, rooted deeply in African and diasporic communities for millennia. These styles safeguarded delicate strands from environmental harshness and reduced daily manipulation, thus preserving length and promoting hair health. The very nature of these enduring styles dictated specific cleansing practices. A head adorned with tightly woven braids or locs could not be cleansed with the same vigor as loose hair.
Ancestral communities developed nuanced cleansing rituals to maintain these protective styles. Instead of aggressive shampoos, they might have favored diluted infusions of herbs or plant-based rinses that could penetrate the intricate patterns without causing frizz or disturbing the style’s integrity. Lighter, more fluid cleansers, often prepared from fermented grains or specific plant extracts, were poured or carefully applied, focusing on the scalp and roots.
This approach allowed the style to last longer while maintaining scalp hygiene and minimizing disruption to the hair’s structure. The objective was a gentle purification that respected the work already put into the hair, a testament to the patient artistry inherent in protective styling.
What Traditional Methods Influenced the Effectiveness of Natural Styling?
The heritage of natural styling and definition for textured hair is rich, encompassing methods that encouraged coils and curls to present their inherent beauty. Before the advent of modern styling products, the very act of cleansing often set the stage for natural definition. Certain historical cleansing ingredients, beyond their purifying capabilities, possessed properties that either enhanced curl formation or prepared the hair to receive defining agents.
Clays, for instance, were not only used for cleansing but also for their ability to provide a subtle hold and definition to curls. When applied as a wash, especially a rhassoul clay, they could draw out impurities while also conditioning the hair, lending a soft, clumping effect that enhanced curl patterns upon drying. Similarly, mucilage-rich plants like aloe vera or flaxseed, often used as rinses or pre-poo treatments, provided a natural slip that aided in detangling and encouraged curls to coil without frizz.
These practices illustrate a deep, intuitive understanding of hydro-molecular interactions and their relationship to hair elasticity and curl memory. The cleansing phase was not an isolated step; it was an integral part of the styling process, laying the foundation for natural, vibrant definition.
Wigs and Hair Extensions Historical Dimensions
The use of wigs and hair extensions holds a long and storied tradition across various cultures, particularly within African heritage, serving purposes ranging from ceremonial adornment to practical protection and expressions of status. Cleansing these extensions, whether made of human hair, plant fibers, or animal hair, also followed specific historical protocols. Unlike natural hair, extensions required care that preserved their longevity and appearance, influencing the type of cleansing agents chosen.
In ancient Egypt, for example, elaborate wigs were cleaned and maintained, often with aromatic oils and plant-based rinses to keep them fresh and lustrous. The practices were likely gentle, aimed at removing surface dirt and odors without degrading the materials. Similarly, in many African societies, hair braiding with added fibers or extensions was a common practice, and the cleansing of these styles would have involved methods that respected the added materials, often favoring dry cleaning methods or very gentle, localized washes.
This often meant using cleansing powders, finely ground herbs, or even mild, diluted fermented liquids that could be applied with minimal saturation, then wiped clean, avoiding excessive wetting that could loosen braids or damage extensions. The focus was on maintaining the integrity of the constructed style, rather than a deep, saturating wash.
Heat Styling Traditional Perspectives
The alteration of hair texture using heat is not a recent innovation. From heated stones to rudimentary pressing combs, ancestors in various cultures, including those with textured hair, experimented with thermal methods to achieve different textures. While these practices were less about cleansing and more about manipulation, the cleansing regimen preceding them was still crucial.
When preparing hair for heat styling, the cleansing had to be thorough, removing any residue that could scorch or impede the straightening process, yet also gentle enough to not excessively dry the hair, which would make it more vulnerable to heat damage. Plant-based cleansers, often followed by rich balms or oils (like shea butter or castor oil in West African traditions, or coconut oil in parts of Asia), were used. These historical applications of natural oils, which sometimes served as heat protectants, highlight an inherent understanding of how to prepare textured hair for thermal manipulation, bridging the gap between cleansing and subsequent heat application in a way that sought to minimize harm while achieving a desired aesthetic.
The Complete Textured Hair Toolkit
The tools of hair care, from combs carved of wood to brushes made of natural fibers, tell another story of heritage, intimately connected to cleansing. The efficacy of traditional cleansing ingredients was often enhanced by the tools used alongside them. Imagine the process:
- Wooden Wide-Tooth Combs ❉ Crafted for detangling during or after cleansing, these tools were essential for distributing cleansing agents and gently working through wet, delicate strands. Their smooth surfaces minimized snagging, a common issue for textured hair when wet.
- Gourds and Clay Bowls ❉ These natural vessels were used for mixing and preparing cleansing pastes and infusions, maintaining the purity of the ingredients and connecting the ritual to the earth.
- Soft Cloths and Plant Fibers ❉ Used for blotting and drying, or for applying mild rinses, these materials were chosen for their absorbency and gentle touch on hair, avoiding the friction that could cause damage.
These tools, simple yet profoundly effective, represent an extension of the cleansing ingredients themselves, forming a holistic system of care that understood and honored the unique characteristics of textured hair. They show a deep connection to the resources available and a refined knowledge of how to best utilize them.
| Era/Culture Ancient West Africa |
| Dominant Cleansing Ingredients African Black Soap (plantain ash, palm oil), Clay washes |
| Styling Practices Influenced Preparation for intricate braids and twists; scalp cleansing for loc maintenance. |
| Era/Culture Indigenous Americas |
| Dominant Cleansing Ingredients Yucca root, Aloe vera, Soap bark extracts |
| Styling Practices Influenced Gentle cleansing for detangling and shaping natural hair before ceremonial adornment; preparing hair for feathered styles. |
| Era/Culture Ancient Egypt |
| Dominant Cleansing Ingredients Scented oils, Plant extracts, Fuller's Earth (clay) |
| Styling Practices Influenced Cleansing wigs and natural hair for elaborate coiffures and ceremonial looks; maintaining hair health for lengthy styles. |
| Era/Culture Historical cleansing practices were often intertwined with the preparation and preservation of culturally significant hairstyles, highlighting a holistic approach to hair artistry. |
Relay
The wisdom of our ancestors, passed down through generations, acts as a vital current, guiding our contemporary understanding of textured hair care. It is a profound meditation, not just on ingredients, but on the rhythms of life, the connection to nature, and the deep respect for the body as a temple. When we consider what historical cleansing ingredients still resonate within today’s textured hair products, we are not merely discussing formulations; we are tracing a lineage of holistic wellness, problem-solving, and self-reverence that continues to influence modern regimens.
Crafting Personalized Textured Hair Regimens
The concept of a personalized hair care regimen is not a modern marketing ploy; it is deeply rooted in ancestral wisdom. Communities understood that individual needs varied based on hair texture, environmental conditions, and lifestyle. They did not have a one-size-fits-all approach to cleansing. Instead, they adapted.
This adaptability meant selecting cleansing ingredients based on perceived needs ❉ a harsher environment might call for a more protective, moisturizing wash, perhaps with a high concentration of conditioning oils in the cleanser, while a period of heavy adornment might require a cleanser capable of dissolving residues gently. The historical emphasis on gentle, plant-based cleansers, often prepared fresh, allowed for this customization. Modern “low-poo” or “co-wash” formulations, which offer minimal lather and high conditioning, echo these ancestral practices, recognizing the delicate nature of textured hair and its need for a less abrasive wash. These modern products, in their very gentleness, carry the imprint of historical ingenuity, adapting age-old principles to contemporary needs.
The Nighttime Sanctuary and Bonnet Wisdom
The protection of textured hair during sleep, often facilitated by bonnets, wraps, or specialized head coverings, is a tradition deeply embedded in Black and mixed-race heritage. This practice speaks volumes about the value placed on hair preservation and health. The cleansing routine, therefore, had to support this nighttime preservation, ensuring hair was clean but not overly dry or tangled before being wrapped.
Historically, if hair was cleansed in the evening, it was often followed by a gentle drying process, perhaps air-drying or light heat from embers, before being carefully wrapped. The cleansers themselves, being less stripping than modern harsh detergents, ensured that the hair retained enough moisture to remain supple overnight, reducing friction and breakage against sleeping surfaces. The ‘bonnet wisdom’ is not just about covering hair; it is about extending the benefits of the cleansing and conditioning applied earlier, securing the hair’s state of hydration and neatness until the next day. This holistic consideration of daily and nightly care, with cleansing as a foundational step, remains a powerful influence in contemporary textured hair regimens.
What Specific Ancestral Cleansing Ingredients Address Common Hair Challenges?
The ingenuity of our ancestors in addressing common hair challenges with naturally occurring cleansing ingredients is a testament to their profound knowledge of the plant kingdom. Many of the issues textured hair faces today—dryness, scalp irritation, tangling, lack of shine—were also concerns for our forebears, and they found sophisticated solutions within their environment.
For instance, the challenge of scalp dryness and flakiness, often exacerbated by harsh environmental conditions or lack of proper moisture, was often mitigated by cleansing agents that possessed inherent soothing or moisturizing properties. Aloe Vera, with its rich mucilage and anti-inflammatory compounds, was used as a gentle cleanser and conditioner across various indigenous communities, offering relief from irritation and adding moisture to the scalp. Similarly, certain clays, like Rhassoul Clay from North Africa, were not only effective purifiers but also left the hair feeling soft and conditioned, addressing dryness without stripping.
Tangling, a persistent struggle for those with tightly coiled or kinky hair, was approached through ingredients that provided slip during the cleansing process. The saponins found in plants like Yucca Root created a gentle lather that aided in detangling, allowing for smoother manipulation of the hair. The practice of applying oils or butters as pre-shampoo treatments also speaks to this ❉ a layer of oil would coat the hair, reducing friction during the wash and preventing excessive tangling.
Consider also the use of acidic rinses, such as diluted vinegar or citrus juices, found in some historical practices. These were not harsh cleansers but rather finishing rinses, often employed to smooth the cuticle after a more alkaline wash, thereby enhancing shine and reducing frizz. This ancestral understanding of pH balance, though perhaps not articulated in scientific terms, directly contributed to the aesthetic outcome of the hair, giving it a healthy luster.
Ancestral cleansing ingredients often doubled as natural problem-solvers, addressing common textured hair challenges like dryness, tangling, and scalp irritation with remarkable efficacy.
Textured Hair Problem Solving Compendium
The challenges faced by textured hair—breakage, excessive shedding, dryness, and scalp conditions—were met with ingenuity by our ancestors, whose solutions often involved cleansing ingredients. The knowledge of these solutions, passed down through oral traditions and communal practices, forms a critical compendium of hair care heritage.
For instance, to counteract breakage, which is a common concern for delicate textured strands, traditional cleansers were inherently mild. Unlike harsh modern sulfates that can weaken the hair shaft, plant-based saponins cleaned without aggression. The focus was on preserving the hair’s structural integrity, a strategy that minimized mechanical stress during washing. Additionally, certain herbal infusions, like those from Neem or Amla, prevalent in Ayurvedic traditions, were valued for their ability to strengthen hair, and when incorporated into cleansing rinses, they contributed to reducing shedding and breakage.
Scalp health, paramount for healthy hair growth, was central to ancestral problem-solving. Issues like flaking or irritation were often addressed with anti-inflammatory herbs integrated into cleansing washes. The use of natural clays not only purified the scalp but also helped balance oil production and soothe irritation, laying a foundation for healthy follicular function. These historical solutions were not isolated remedies; they were integral parts of the cleansing ritual, a holistic approach that recognized the interconnectedness of scalp, strand, and well-being.
The impact of these historical cleansing ingredients on today’s products is evident in the rise of specialized formulations designed for textured hair:
- Low-Lather Cleansers ❉ Mimicking the gentle action of saponin-rich plants, these cleansers prioritize moisture retention over aggressive stripping.
- Clay-Based Washes ❉ Drawing from ancient practices, these products utilize mineral-rich clays for detoxifying the scalp and softening the hair without harsh detergents.
- Herbal Infusions and Extracts ❉ Many modern formulations now prominently feature botanicals like aloe vera, hibiscus, and various adaptogenic herbs, acknowledging their historical efficacy in promoting hair and scalp health.
Holistic Influences on Hair Health
The care of textured hair, for our ancestors, was never simply a superficial act; it was interwoven with spiritual beliefs, community bonds, and overall holistic well-being. This profound understanding of hair as an extension of one’s identity and connection to the universe profoundly shaped cleansing practices. The selection of cleansing ingredients was often guided by principles of balance and harmony, aligning with a broader ancestral wellness philosophy.
Consider the spiritual significance of water itself in many African and indigenous traditions—a purifying element, not just physically, but spiritually. The act of washing hair was a moment of renewal, often performed with reverence, using ingredients believed to cleanse both body and spirit. Cleansing rituals were sometimes accompanied by chants, prayers, or songs, transforming a mundane task into a sacred experience. This imbued the ingredients used with a deeper meaning beyond their chemical properties.
The gathering of cleansing plants, often a communal activity, reinforced social bonds and knowledge transfer. The elders would impart wisdom about identifying the right plants, the proper time for harvesting, and the precise methods for preparation, ensuring that the legacy of knowledge continued. This collective aspect of hair care, with cleansing as its starting point, built a community around the shared pursuit of well-being. The enduring influence of these holistic philosophies can be seen in today’s clean beauty movement and the growing desire for natural, ethically sourced ingredients in textured hair products, a silent homage to the ancestral wisdom that viewed hair care as an integral part of a balanced, mindful existence.
The communal spirit and spiritual reverence embedded in ancestral cleansing rituals remind us that hair care is a holistic practice, linking body, spirit, and community.
A powerful example of ancestral wisdom guiding cleansing practices is the use of Yucca Root by various Native American tribes. This plant, rich in saponins, was traditionally crushed and used to create a natural, gentle lather for washing hair and body. Its cleansing action was effective yet mild, preserving the hair’s natural moisture and respecting the scalp’s delicate balance. The efficacy of Yucca root as a cleanser is highlighted by its sustained use over centuries, a testament to its gentle yet thorough purifying capabilities.
Modern scientific understanding now validates that saponins are natural surfactants, capable of creating a stable foam that lifts dirt and oils without stripping essential lipids, a characteristic that makes them particularly well-suited for the unique structure and needs of textured hair (Quinn et al. 2003, p. 280). This historical practice speaks to an intuitive, deep understanding of natural chemistry, long before modern laboratories isolated such compounds.
| Traditional Ingredient/Practice African Black Soap (e.g. from cocoa pods, palm oil) |
| Ancestral Benefit/Application (Heritage) Deep, purifying cleanse with natural emollients, used across West African communities for skin and hair. |
| Modern Product Analogues/Principles Clarifying shampoos, detox washes, and gentle cleansing bars for textured hair, often prioritizing natural ingredients. |
| Traditional Ingredient/Practice Various Clays (e.g. Rhassoul, Bentonite) |
| Ancestral Benefit/Application (Heritage) Gentle cleansing, mineral-rich conditioning, drawing out impurities without stripping, leaving hair soft. |
| Modern Product Analogues/Principles Clay washes, cleansing masks, and pre-poo treatments found in natural hair care lines, emphasizing scalp health and moisture. |
| Traditional Ingredient/Practice Yucca Root & Soapwort |
| Ancestral Benefit/Application (Heritage) Natural saponin-based lather, mild purification, detangling assistance, and preservation of hair's natural oils. |
| Modern Product Analogues/Principles Sulfate-free shampoos, low-lather cleansers, and co-washes that aim for a gentle cleanse while maintaining hydration. |
| Traditional Ingredient/Practice Herbal Infusions (e.g. Amla, Neem, Hibiscus) |
| Ancestral Benefit/Application (Heritage) Rinses and washes for scalp health, strengthening, and shine, imparting conditioning properties. |
| Modern Product Analogues/Principles Herbal rinses, botanical extracts in shampoos and conditioners, and scalp treatments focusing on natural strengthening and nourishment. |
| Traditional Ingredient/Practice The ingenuity of ancestral cleansing ingredients laid a foundational blueprint, their efficacy echoing in today's products, bridging the gap between ancient wisdom and modern innovation. |
Reflection
The journey through the historical cleansing ingredients that shape today’s textured hair products has been more than an examination of chemistry; it has been a pilgrimage through the enduring soul of a strand. Each botanical, each clay, each practice carries the whispers of ancestors, their deep respect for life, and their boundless creativity in nurturing their crowns. These aren’t just remnants of the past; they are living legacies, pulsating with the vitality of generations. They remind us that the beauty of textured hair is not merely aesthetic, but a testament to a resilience born of deep roots and a heritage that refuses to be forgotten.
In every gentle lather derived from ancient plants, in every mineral-rich clay that purifies without stripping, we find a profound connection to the wisdom that understood the hair’s inherent thirst, its delicate structure, and its profound cultural significance. This is a continuous story, a living archive of care, where the ingenuity of the past illuminates the path for the future, ensuring that the heritage of textured hair continues to shine, unbound and vibrant.
References
- Quinn, C. R. Quinn, T. M. & Kelly, A. P. (2003). Hair care practices in African American women. Cutis, 72(4), 280-282, 285-289.
- Carney, J. A. (2003). African traditional plant knowledge in the circum-Caribbean region. Journal of Ethnobiology, 23(2), 167-187.
- Van Wyk, B. E. (2008). The ethnobotany of the Khoi-San ❉ New perspectives from recent research. South African Journal of Botany, 74(2), 210-216.
- Dube, S. & Bapela, M. J. (2023). Cosmetopoeia of African Plants in Hair Treatment and Care ❉ Topical Nutrition and the Antidiabetic Connection? Pharmaceuticals, 16(2), 263.
- Aburjai, T. & Natsheh, F. M. (2003). Plants used in cosmetics. Phytotherapy Research, 17(9), 987-1000.
- Roberts, L. H. (1998). African American hair care ❉ The path to health and beauty. Journal of the National Medical Association, 90(2 Suppl), S107-111.