What historical chemical treatments harmed textured hair?

Roots

The stories held within each coil, each curl, each wave of textured hair, speak of ancient lineage, of sun-drenched lands, and of wisdom passed down through generations. To trace the origins of hair care is to listen to the echoes of ancestral practices, those gentle hands that braided and adorned, those rituals steeped in herbal knowledge and communal gathering. Yet, as the calendar turned and cultures collided, another story began to unfold—a tale of chemical interventions, often born from pressures to conform, that inflicted deep harm upon these very strands, and upon the individuals whose heritage they embody. We look now not just at the damage done, but at the resilient spirit that persevered, understanding that to comprehend this history is to honor the hair that survived.

Ancient Knowledge and Hair Biology

Across various civilizations, before the advent of modern chemistry, people drew from the natural world to care for their hair. Ancient Egyptians, for instance, used castor oil for its conditioning qualities, blending it with honey and other botanicals to create restorative masques for luster and growth (Oldham, 2024). In India, Ayurvedic traditions emphasized ingredients such as Amla, Bhringraj, and Coconut Oil, incorporating scalp massages to stimulate growth and promote overall hair vitality.

These methods recognized hair as a living extension of the body, a part of a larger wellness system, with a deep connection to lineage and natural rhythms. The understanding of hair was rooted in observation and the practical application of nature’s bounty, a stark contrast to later industrial approaches.

Ancestral hair care practices were deeply connected to natural elements, viewing hair as an extension of holistic wellbeing and cultural identity.

Hair itself, regardless of its unique textural patterns, possesses a fundamental biology. The outermost layer, the Cuticle, protects the inner cortex, where the protein bonds, particularly Disulfide Bonds, determine the curl pattern. Textured hair, often characterized by its elliptical shape and varied diameter along the shaft, naturally exhibits a lower tendency to distribute sebum evenly from the scalp, leading to a drier strand (Pinto et al. 2021).

This inherent structural difference, a biological marvel, was sometimes misunderstood or even deemed “unruly” in contexts where straighter hair became the societal ideal. Early attempts at altering hair texture, even before industrial chemicals, sometimes involved heat. Ancient Egyptians and Romans, for instance, employed heated combs and metal rods to straighten their hair, laying an early foundation for thermal alteration methods (Boulevard, 2022; Hair Design, 2024). While these methods posed risks if misused, they represented a mechanical, rather than chemical, interference with the hair’s natural state.

Early Chemical Interventions on Textured Hair

The early 20th century marked a significant shift with the invention of chemical hair relaxers. Garrett A. Morgan, an African American man, is credited with inventing one of the first chemical hair straightening products in the early 1900s, initially noticing its effect while working with sewing machine lubricants (Morgan, 1909; Quora, 2023). This invention, while offering a novel way to straighten coiled hair, set a course for widespread chemical alteration within Black and mixed-race communities.

These early relaxers primarily contained strong alkaline substances, such as Sodium Hydroxide, also known as Lye. Lye works by chemically breaking the disulfide bonds within the hair’s cortex, permanently altering its natural curl pattern (HairClub, 2023; Drugwatch.com, 2023; Pinto et al. 2021).

The application of these potent chemicals was not without immediate consequences. Users often reported burning sensations on the scalp, which many were taught to accept as a necessary part of the process, a sentiment captured in the phrase, “beauty is pain” (Motley Rice, 2025; James-Todd, 2024). These burns could range from minor irritation to severe chemical burns, causing scabbing and increasing the scalp’s permeability to harmful chemicals. Beyond immediate pain, prolonged or improper use led to hair breakage, thinning, and even permanent hair loss conditions like Traction Alopecia and Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia (CCCA), which disproportionately affected Black women (Vinci Hair Clinic, 2020; SciELO, 2023).

The historical context here is critical ❉ the adoption of these harsh chemicals was often driven by societal pressures to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards, where straight hair was deemed more “professional” or “acceptable,” impacting social mobility and economic opportunities (Forbes, 2022; Taylor & Kelly, 2025; ResearchGate, 2024). This pursuit of societal acceptance, rooted in a history of racial discrimination, made communities vulnerable to products whose long-term health implications were not fully understood at the time.

Ritual

The act of styling hair, across every culture, holds a profound meaning. It can be a daily ritual of self-care, a ceremonial preparation, or a powerful declaration of identity. For textured hair, styling has always been a form of artistic expression, a way to connect with ancestral customs, and a shield against prevailing notions of beauty.

Yet, this arena of self-expression also became a battleground, where harmful chemical treatments, presented as paths to conformity or ease, infiltrated centuries-old traditions, leaving a legacy of damaged strands and compromised wellbeing. We consider here how these chemical practices became embedded in rituals, altering not just the hair, but the very relationship individuals had with their heritage.

Styling Practices and Chemical Influence

Traditional styling for textured hair often centered on protective methods, designed to preserve the strand, retain moisture, and celebrate its natural form. Braids, twists, and various forms of coiling or wrapping have ancestral roots across African diasporic communities, serving purposes from communication and status markers to simple daily care (Library of Congress, 2021). These practices were deeply communal, passed from elder to youth, often accompanied by storytelling and shared wisdom. The introduction of chemical straightening offered a stark departure from these methods.

Early 20th-century pressing with heated metal combs, a precursor to chemical straighteners, temporarily altered texture (SciELO, 2023; ResearchGate, 2018). But chemical relaxers offered a promise of more permanent straightness. The cycle of hair relaxing, or Lanthionization, involved applying the chemical cream to the hair’s base, allowing it to “cook” for a specific time, and then rinsing (HairClub, 2023). Because the effects were not permanent on new growth, a continuous cycle of “touch-ups” became necessary every few weeks, exposing the scalp and hair repeatedly to corrosive chemicals (HairClub, 2023; Wikipedia, 2023).

This regular exposure exacerbated the immediate harms, leading to chronic scalp irritation, burns, and cumulative damage to the hair protein structure (Motley Rice, 2025; Taylor & Kelly, 2025). The social context of this widespread adoption is critical ❉ for many, these treatments were not merely about aesthetics; they were about survival and acceptance in societies that devalued natural textured hair, often equating straight hair with professionalism and beauty (Forbes, 2022; C+R Research, 2024). This pressure meant that the ritual of hair care, once a source of communal pride and self-expression, became intertwined with a quest for assimilation, sometimes at the expense of health.

Unseen Chemicals and Their Hidden Costs

Beyond the highly visible relaxers, other chemical treatments also presented dangers. Hair Pomades, popular for styling and straightening, particularly in the mid-20th century, often contained petroleum-based oils and harsh synthetics. While some pomades today are formulated with natural ingredients, historical versions frequently included substances like Petrolatum, Sulfates, Parabens, and Phthalates (JACK HENRY, 2020; Out of Regz, 2022). Petroleum-based products could clog pores, leading to scalp issues and potentially hair loss, especially if not thoroughly removed (Out of Regz, 2022).

Sulfates stripped natural oils, causing dryness, while parabens and phthalates, often hidden in “fragrance” ingredients, have been identified as Endocrine Disruptors (JACK HENRY, 2020; Silent Spring Institute, 2018). These disruptors interfere with the body’s hormonal system, raising concerns about reproductive health issues and certain cancers (JACK HENRY, 2020; Silent Spring Institute, 2018).

Later, in the early 2000s, Keratin Treatments, sometimes marketed as “Brazilian blowouts,” gained popularity, promising frizz-free, smoother hair (Kera Mane, 2024). The original formulations of these treatments contained significant amounts of Formaldehyde, a known carcinogen (Oregon OSHA, 2010; Kera Mane, 2024). Though manufacturers later sought to reduce or eliminate formaldehyde, early exposure led to respiratory issues, skin irritation, and eye discomfort for both clients and salon workers (Kera Mane, 2024; Drugwatch.com, 2023). The push for “easier” or “straighter” hair, steeped in cultural expectations, sometimes overlooked the invisible chemicals that compromised health and the long-term integrity of the hair itself.

The insidious nature of chemical harm in hair treatments lies not only in visible damage but also in the systemic health risks posed by hidden ingredients.

The pressure to conform to mainstream beauty standards, often equating straight hair with professionalism, played a significant role in the widespread use of these treatments among Black women. A 2023 survey study revealed that Black respondents reported the most frequent use of chemical straighteners compared to other racial groups, with 61% stating they used them because they “felt more beautiful with straight hair” (Perry et al. 2023).

This statistic reveals the profound psychosocial impetus behind practices that, unbeknownst to many, carried serious health risks. It speaks to a history where external pressures dictated internal choices about one’s most visible connection to heritage.

Relay

The living archive of textured hair history extends beyond personal experience; it encompasses scientific inquiry, public health dialogue, and societal movements that challenge entrenched norms. The devastating consequences of historical chemical treatments, once dismissed as mere beauty choices, are now being rigorously examined through the lens of population health and environmental justice. This advanced exploration reveals how the legacy of chemical harm on textured hair is inextricably tied to systemic inequities, prompting a collective re-evaluation of wellness and heritage for generations to come.

Are Chemical Hair Relaxers a Public Health Concern?

Contemporary research has cast a stark light upon the long-term health implications associated with chemical hair relaxers, particularly for Black women who have historically been the primary consumers of these products (Drugwatch.com, 2023; Clean Water Action, 2024). Studies have identified a correlation between frequent and prolonged use of these products and increased risks of severe health conditions. For instance, a notable study by researchers at Boston University’s Black Women’s Health Study (BWHS) reported in 2023 that long-term use of chemical hair relaxers by postmenopausal Black women was associated with a greater than 50% increased risk of Uterine Cancer, compared to those who rarely or never used them (Boston University, 2023). This finding holds significant weight given that Black women experience higher rates of aggressive uterine cancer subtypes and are nearly twice as likely to die from the disease compared to non-Hispanic white women (Boston University, 2023).

The agents within these products, such as Sodium Hydroxide, Calcium Hydroxide, Guanidine Hydroxide, Parabens, and Phthalates, are implicated (Bell Legal Group, 2025; Drugwatch.com, 2023). Many of these substances are recognized as Endocrine-Disrupting Chemicals (EDCs), meaning they can interfere with the body’s hormonal balance (Silent Spring Institute, 2018; Clean Water Action, 2024). EDCs are linked to a spectrum of reproductive health issues, including early menstruation, uterine fibroids, infertility, and an elevated risk of hormone-related cancers such as breast and ovarian cancers (Bell Legal Group, 2025; Clean Water Action, 2024). The alarming reality is that approximately 50% of hair products marketed to Black women contain EDCs, a stark contrast to just 7% of products marketed to white women, a statistic that underscores environmental justice concerns within the beauty industry (Harvard School of Public Health, 2020; Clean Water Action, 2024).

How Do Chemical Treatments Undermine Hair Integrity and Heritage?

The fundamental mechanism by which chemical treatments like relaxers work involves intentionally damaging the hair’s natural protein structure (HairClub, 2023). Lye and “no-lye” relaxers, despite their differences in specific alkaline agents, both operate at a high pH, which can corrode skin and disrupt the hair’s cuticle and cortex (Vinci Hair Clinic, 2020; Pinto et al. 2021). This disruption renders the hair weak, brittle, and highly susceptible to breakage (HairClub, 2023).

Studies have shown decreases in amino acids like Cystine in chemically straightened hair, making it resemble hair affected by conditions like trichothiodystrophy, a rare genetic disorder characterized by brittle hair (Pinto et al. 2021). This alteration is not merely cosmetic; it changes the intrinsic integrity of the hair fiber, affecting its strength, elasticity, and overall health.

The harm extends beyond the physical strand to the psychological and cultural dimensions. For many Black and mixed-race women, hair becomes a visible marker of identity, a connection to ancestry, and a site of resistance against oppressive beauty norms (C+R Research, 2024). The continuous use of chemical straighteners, often beginning in childhood (some as early as four years old), instilled lessons about conformity and the rejection of one’s natural texture (Drugwatch.com, 2023; DTSC, 2021). This practice, influenced by a pervasive “self-mediated racism” where Westernized beauty ideals are internalized, contributed to psychological conflict and a decreased satisfaction with natural hair (ResearchGate, 2024; Perry et al.

2023). The very idea that natural hair was “unprofessional” or “bad” was reinforced by advertising that promoted straight hair as “good” or “silky” (Library of Congress, 2021; Perry et al. 2023).

The journey of hair for Black women reveals a complex interplay between personal style, societal pressure, and deep-seated historical trauma.

The CROWN Act, initiated in 2019, represents a modern response to this historical discrimination, seeking to protect against race-based hair discrimination in workplaces and schools (ResearchGate, 2024; Perry et al. 2023). While an important step, it highlights the enduring legacy of a beauty culture that, for too long, celebrated uniformity at the expense of diversity and health. The shift towards natural hair movements is not just a style choice; it is an act of reclamation, a conscious decision to re-establish a connection with ancestral practices and self-acceptance, moving away from the chemical agents that harmed both hair and spirit.

Specific historical chemical treatments that caused significant harm include:

1. Lye-Based Relaxers ❉ These products, containing Sodium Hydroxide, were incredibly caustic, known for causing severe scalp burns, chemical irritation, and permanent hair damage. Their high pH levels (9-12) chemically disrupted the hair’s disulfide bonds, rendering it weak and prone to breakage (Pinto et al. 2021; HairClub, 2023).
2. “No-Lye” Relaxers ❉ While marketed as gentler, these often used Calcium Hydroxide and Guanidine Hydroxide. They still caused scalp irritation, burns, and hair loss, and some research suggests they could be as damaging as lye-based versions in terms of scalp effects (Motley Rice, 2025; Bell Legal Group, 2025).
3. Formaldehyde-Releasing Keratin Treatments ❉ Early 21st-century keratin treatments, particularly those from Brazil, contained 9-15% Formaldehyde, a potent irritant and known carcinogen (Kera Mane, 2024; Oregon OSHA, 2010). Exposure led to respiratory issues, eye irritation, and skin reactions for both stylists and clients (Kera Mane, 2024).
4. Petroleum-Based Pomades ❉ While not direct relaxers, many historical pomades contained petrochemicals like Petrolatum, Mineral Oil Derivatives, and synthetic fragrances (JACK HENRY, 2020; Out of Regz, 2022). These could clog scalp pores, impede healthy hair growth, and contain carcinogens like PAHs (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons) through contamination (Out of Regz, 2022).

The story of these chemicals is not merely a scientific one; it is a profound testament to the intersection of commerce, societal pressure, and enduring cultural heritage.

Reflection

The coils and curls of textured hair carry more than mere protein bonds; they bear the weight of centuries, whispering tales of adaptation, aesthetic aspiration, and sometimes, profound compromise. Our exploration into the historical chemical treatments that harmed this heritage reveals a deep wound, a scar tissue not just on individual scalps, but within the collective consciousness of Black and mixed-race communities. The very desire for straightness, fueled by dominant beauty standards that marginalized natural coils, led generations down a path fraught with corrosive chemicals, physical pain, and systemic health disparities. This period in hair history, rather than a deviation, represents a complex chapter in the ongoing journey of self-determination and cultural affirmation.

Yet, within this difficult past resides a powerful resilience. The hair itself, despite the chemical assault, continued its cycle of growth. The individuals, despite the burns and breakage, continued to seek beauty and self-expression. And the communities, through shared experiences and growing knowledge, began to reclaim ancestral wisdom, advocating for health and honoring the true nature of their hair.

The natural hair movement, far from a trend, stands as a living testament to this reclamation—a vibrant return to methods that prioritize wellbeing and celebrate the intrinsic beauty of every curl, kink, and wave. It is a profound meditation on self-acceptance, a conscious choice to heal the historical harms, and a commitment to nurturing the future of textured hair, not as something to be altered or subdued, but as a living, breathing archive of heritage, strength, and unapologetic radiance. The soul of a strand, indeed, remembers.