What historical biases impacted understanding of textured hair?

Roots

The story of textured hair, particularly for those of Black and mixed-race heritage, is not simply a tale of strands and follicles. It is an account steeped in the grand sweep of human history, a living testament to resilience, creativity, and the enduring power of identity. Unraveling the historical biases that have obscured a true understanding of textured hair means looking beyond superficial observations and confronting deep-seated societal structures that sought to diminish its inherent beauty and cultural significance.

These biases, often rooted in systems of oppression, have cast long shadows, influencing everything from scientific classification to everyday perception. Yet, through it all, the wisdom of ancestral practices and the spirit of collective heritage persist, echoing from the source of our shared origins.

The very language we use to describe textured hair today, though often intended for classification, carries faint whispers of a troubling past. Consider the historical categorization systems that attempted to define human races, often with a clear hierarchy in mind. In the early 20th century, individuals like Eugen Fischer, a German Nazi scientist and proponent of eugenics, created systems, such as the “hair gauge” in 1908, with the express purpose of determining a person’s “proximity to whiteness” based on hair texture.

This abhorrent approach, applied to mixed-race populations in places like present-day Namibia, served to justify racist ideologies and contributed to the subjugation of indigenous peoples. This pseudo-scientific pursuit sought to fix and frame people of African descent, not as individuals of their own making, but as characters defined by external, prejudiced views.

Understanding textured hair’s journey requires confronting historical biases that sought to diminish its cultural significance and inherent beauty.

While today’s hair typing systems, popularized by figures like Andre Walker in the 1990s, serve a different purpose – aiding in product recommendations and styling approaches – the echoes of these discriminatory origins sometimes linger in the subtle preferences for looser curl patterns over tighter coils, perpetuating a form of discrimination known as texturism. This preference often aligns with Eurocentric beauty standards, which historically elevated straight hair as the ideal of professionalism and respectability.

Hair Anatomy and Its Ancestral Legacy

From an ancestral perspective, textured hair possesses a unique biology, intrinsically adapted to specific environmental conditions. Evolutionary biologists posit that Afro-textured hair first developed on the African continent, serving as a natural adaptation to protect the scalp from intense ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun. Its spiraled structure and wider follicular pattern allow for greater air circulation, providing cooling for the scalp. This inherent design speaks to a deep connection with the elemental biology of early humanity, suggesting textured hair may have been the first hair type among modern humans.

• Follicle Shape ❉ The shape of the hair follicle determines the curl pattern. More circular follicles result in straighter hair, while oval or elliptical follicles produce the varying degrees of curl, wave, and coil seen in textured hair types.
• Hair Shaft Structure ❉ The hair shaft of textured hair often possesses more disulfide bonds and a greater number of twists and turns, contributing to its spring-like elasticity and volume.
• Density ❉ Due to its unique coiling, textured hair often appears denser than other hair types, even if individual strands are fine.

How Hair Classification Systems Reinforce Bias?

The way we classify hair, even in modern contexts, can inadvertently carry the weight of historical biases. The idea of “good hair,” often linked to textures that more closely resemble European hair, arose before the abolition of slavery in the United States. This concept continues to subtly shape perceptions, despite widespread efforts to celebrate the diversity of textured hair.

This journey through foundational understanding reveals that what appears to be simple hair anatomy or classification is, in fact, layered with centuries of historical context and bias. Yet, within this same heritage lies the power to reclaim narratives and celebrate the intrinsic beauty and strength of textured hair, recognizing it as a crown of identity and a testament to enduring lineage.

Ritual

The ritual of textured hair care, deeply steeped in ancestral wisdom, has always been more than a simple act of grooming. It serves as a profound connection to lineage, a daily affirmation of self, and a communal practice passed down through generations. However, this heritage of care has been continuously shaped, and often distorted, by historical biases that sought to impose Eurocentric beauty standards. The very act of caring for textured hair has been impacted by prevailing societal attitudes, shifting from practices of reverence to those of forced conformity, leaving an indelible mark on collective consciousness.

Ancestral Roots of Hair Care Rituals

Before the era of transatlantic slavery and colonial imposition, hair care in African societies was intricately linked to social status, tribal identity, age, marital status, religion, and even wealth. Hairstyles were not merely aesthetic choices; they were forms of communication, rich with symbolic meaning. For instance, among the Yoruba people of Nigeria, hair held profound significance, considered as important as the head itself, with its care believed to bring good fortune.

The process of styling could span hours or even days, involving washing, oiling, braiding, or twisting, and adornment with shells, beads, or cloth. These practices were not solitary; they were communal, providing cherished opportunities for bonding among family and friends.

Traditional hair care rituals were not merely aesthetic; they were profound acts of cultural expression, communication, and communal bonding.

The forced migration during the transatlantic slave trade severed many of these connections. One of the first acts of dehumanization inflicted upon enslaved Africans was the shaving of their heads, a deliberate effort to strip away cultural identity and communal ties. Denied access to traditional tools, ingredients, and the very time for these elaborate rituals, enslaved people improvised, using substances like cooking grease or butter for moisture, and even metal ornaments meant for livestock as combs. This brutal rupture forced a re-imagining of hair care within a context of survival, laying the groundwork for many of the biases that would follow.

The Politicization of Appearance

As societies developed, particularly in the Western world, Eurocentric beauty standards became dominant, equating straight hair with professionalism and acceptability. This led to a profound shift in how textured hair was perceived and treated. In the 18th century, in cities like New Orleans, free Creole women of color were celebrated for their elaborate hairstyles that displayed their coils with regal bearing. In response, the Spanish colonial governor Esteban Rodríguez Miró enacted the Tignon Laws in 1786.

These laws mandated that free Black women wear a tignon, a headscarf, to cover their hair, signifying their association with the enslaved class, regardless of their freedom. The intent was clear ❉ to assert racial hierarchy and limit their social influence.

However, in a powerful act of resistance, these women transformed the tignon into a symbol of defiance and cultural pride. They adorned their headwraps with jewels and ribbons, using fine fabrics and imaginative wrapping techniques. The Tignon Laws, while intended to suppress, instead solidified the tignon as an enduring symbol of Black women’s beauty, wealth, and creativity.

The pressure to conform to Eurocentric ideals continued well beyond the Tignon Laws. In the 19th and 20th centuries, many Black women began altering their hair through chemical relaxers and hot combs to align with prevailing beauty standards. This pursuit of “good hair” was often driven by a desire for social acceptance and better opportunities.

1. Early Straightening Tools ❉ Before modern relaxers, Black women used methods such as heated butter knives to straighten hair.
2. Madam C. J. Walker’s Innovations ❉ A pivotal figure, Madam C. J. Walker, revolutionized hair care by inventing methods that relaxed textured hair and widened the teeth of the hot comb, enabling more accessible straightening. Her work built a multi-billion dollar industry.
3. Chemical Relaxers ❉ By the mid-20th century, chemical relaxers became a common way to permanently straighten hair, though these often involved harsh chemicals that could cause scalp burns and hair damage.

The ritual of caring for textured hair, from ancient practices to modern choices, stands as a testament to the ongoing dialogue between heritage and prevailing societal pressures. It speaks to the deep emotional and psychological significance hair holds within Black and mixed-race communities, where its care is interwoven with self-perception and the enduring spirit of cultural memory.

Relay

The historical biases that have permeated the understanding of textured hair have not only shaped perceptions but have also inflicted tangible psychological and social consequences on Black and mixed-race individuals. These biases, relayed through generations and reinforced by societal structures, have created a complex landscape where hair becomes more than personal style; it morphs into a deeply politicized aspect of identity. The journey to unpack these legacies requires an honest confrontation with the systemic nature of hair discrimination and its lasting impact on well-being and opportunity.

The Psychological Weight of Hair Discrimination

The emotional and psychological toll of hair-based discrimination is profound and frequently unspoken. Research consistently shows that Black individuals, particularly Black women, internalize negative messages about their natural hair, leading to significant mental health challenges. The constant microaggressions, the subtle and overt messages that natural hair is “unprofessional,” “messy,” or “unruly,” are not simply about aesthetics; they directly impact self-worth and belonging.

A study conducted by TRIYBE, as part of the Black Heritage Hair Research Project, highlights the mental health consequences of hair-based stigma. These consequences include internalized racism, negative self-image, heightened anxiety about how others perceive their hair, chronic stress in academic and professional settings, and feelings of cultural disconnection. Young Black children, unfortunately, face discipline in schools for culturally significant hairstyles, teaching them from an early age that their natural appearance is somehow inappropriate.

Such experiences can deeply affect self-image and lead to feelings of inauthenticity and internal conflict (Dawson et al. 2019; Dickens & Chavez, 2018).

Hair-based discrimination carries significant psychological weight, leading to internalized racism, anxiety, and feelings of cultural disconnection.

The pressure to conform often results in Black women feeling compelled to chemically straighten their hair to avoid discrimination, a process that can be both physically and psychologically damaging. This constant negotiation of identity in a society that often views straight, long hair as the norm places a heavy “hair dilemma” on Black women (Caldwell, 396).

Legal and Social Ramifications

The bias against textured hair has historically manifested in legal and institutional discrimination, limiting opportunities for Black individuals in employment and education. In the United States, anti-Black hair sentiment has existed for centuries. During the 1700s, enslaved women often covered their hair due to harsh working conditions. Post-emancipation, the preference for Eurocentric beauty ideals led many Black Americans to straighten their hair to avoid mistreatment and discrimination, seeking social and economic success.

Legal challenges against hair discrimination have been ongoing. In 1976, the U.S. Court of Appeals for the Seventh Circuit, in Jenkins V. Blue Cross Mutual Hospital Insurance, upheld a race discrimination lawsuit against an employer for bias against Afros, arguing that workers were entitled to wear Afros under Title VII of the Civil Rights Act.

However, this ruling did not end the systemic issue. In 1981, a Black woman sued American Airlines because the company required her to remove her braids.

The contemporary legislative response to this persistent bias is the CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair), first introduced in 2019. This legislation aims to protect individuals from discrimination based on natural hair textures and protective styles, including braids, twists, locs, and Afros. As of September 2024, 27 states, along with Washington, D.C. have enacted CROWN laws, though a federal version has yet to pass.

The necessity of the CROWN Act is underscored by compelling research. A 2023 CROWN Workplace Research study, co-commissioned by Dove and LinkedIn, revealed:

• Microaggressions ❉ Black women with textured hair are twice as likely to experience microaggressions at work compared to Black women with straighter hair.
• Job Interview Pressure ❉ Black women are nearly twice as likely to feel they need to wear their hair straight for a successful job interview.
• Perception of Unprofessionalism ❉ Black women’s hair is 2.5 times more likely to be perceived as “unprofessional”.

This data underscores that hair discrimination remains a systemic problem in the workplace, impacting employment opportunities and professional advancement. The psychological distress extends to educational settings, where discriminatory grooming policies penalize Black students for natural hairstyles, reflecting Eurocentric beauty standards that deem traditional Black hairstyles as “unprofessional” or “unkempt”. These policies can lead to disciplinary actions, social ostracization, and adverse academic and social-emotional development.

The battle against hair discrimination, therefore, is a contemporary relay race, a continued effort to dismantle biases that have been passed down through centuries. It is a movement that seeks to validate the heritage of textured hair, ensuring that ancestral beauty and cultural expression are celebrated, not penalized, in modern society.

Reflection

In contemplating the interwoven strands of history, science, and lived experience, it becomes clear that understanding textured hair is a journey into the soul of a strand, a meditation on heritage itself. The biases that have historically clouded this understanding serve not as a final judgment, but as markers along a path of resilience. From the ancient African continent, where hair was a profound language of status and spirituality, to the enduring struggles for recognition in modern spaces, textured hair has remained a beacon of identity. It carries the wisdom of adaptation, the creativity of resistance, and the unwavering spirit of generations who found beauty in authenticity despite oppressive currents.

This unfolding narrative calls us to honor the ancestral practices that offer timeless lessons in holistic care and to dismantle the lingering shadows of prejudice. For in celebrating the true legacy of textured hair, we do more than appreciate its physical qualities; we affirm a deep human story of belonging, strength, and unwavering pride.